JOURNAL BROWSE
Search
Advanced SearchSearch Tips
Checks, grids and tartans
facebook(new window)  Pirnt(new window) E-mail(new window) Excel Download
 Title & Authors
Checks, grids and tartans
Wang, Chaoran; Hann, Michael Andrew;
  PDF(new window)
 Abstract
Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be 'balanced' or 'regular', with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.
 Keywords
grid structure;checks;tartan;sett;
 Language
English
 Cited by
 References
1.
Bain, R. (1938). The Clans and tartans of Scotland. London and Glasgow: Collins.

2.
Dunbar, J. T. (1962). The history of Highland dress. Edinburgh: Oliver and Boyd.

3.
Dunbar, J. T. (1984). The costume of Scotland. London: Batsford.

4.
Hesketh, C. (1961). Tartans. London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson.

5.
ICS (1906). Weaves, fabrics, textile designing. In ICS Reference Library (Series Ed.). Scranton, PA: International Textbook Company for International Correspondence School.

6.
Innes (of Learney), T. (1945). The tartans of the Clans and families of Scotland. Edinburgh and London: W. & A. K. Johnston Ltd.

7.
Martine, R. (2008). Scottish Clan and family names: Their arms, origins and tartans (Rev. ed.). Edinburgh: Mainstream Publishing.

8.
McClintock, H. F. (1943). Old Irish and Highland dress. Dundalk: W. Tempest.

9.
Scarlett, J. D. (1972). Tartans of Scotland. London: Lutterworth Press.

10.
Scarlett, J. D. (1973). The tartan spotter's guide. London: Shepheard-Walwyn.

11.
Stewart, D. C. (1974). The setts of the Scottish tartans. London: Shepheard-Walwyn.

12.
Stewart, D. W. (1893). Old and rare scottish tartans. Edinburgh: George P. Johnston.

13.
Teall, G., & Smith, P. (1992). District tartans. London: Shepheard-Walwyn.

14.
Urquhart, B. (2000). Tartans: The illustrated identifier to over 140 designs. London: Apple Press.

15.
Way, G., & Squire, R. (Eds) (2000). Clans and tartans. Glasgow: Harper Collins.

16.
Zaczek, I., & Phillips, C. (2009). The complete book of tartan: A heritage encyclopaedia of over 400 tartans and stories that Shaped Scottish history. London: Lorenz Books (with Anness Publishing).

17.
Note: Some of the text presented above is a summarised version of material presented in the forthcoming book: Stripes, Grids and Checks (Bloomsbury, London and New York, anticipated 2015).