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Study on Freak Wave Characteristics and Approximation of Wave Spectrum in Uljin Sea Area

울진해역의 Freak wave 특성과 스펙트럼 근사에 대한 연구

  • Received : 2012.08.24
  • Accepted : 2012.04.19
  • Published : 2012.04.30

Abstract

This paper investigates the statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Uljin, which is located in the East Sea area of Korea. The wave data were measured using AWAC (Acoustic Wave and Current Meter), which was installed at a 16-m water depth from November 2010 to March 2011. The wave data acquisition rate, Hmax, monthly mean Hs, Tz, Tp, and wave direction are summarized. The distributions of Hs and Tz were analyzed using the Hs-Tz scatter diagrams. The measurement wave data were analyzed to investigate freak wave characteristics. By comparing the wave spectrum using the measurement wave data with the wave spectrum obtained by varying the JONSWAP wave spectrum, it was possible to approximate the wave spectrum shape at the Uljin Sea area.

Keywords

Hs-Tz Scatter Diagram;Freak wave;Skewness;Atiltness;Kurtosis;Spectrum bandwidth parameter

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