- Volume 19 Issue 4
DOI QR Code
중국 전족 신발의 조형미 및 복식사적 의의 -천진화하혜문화박물관(天津?夏鞋文化博物?) 소장품을 중심으로-
A Formative Beauty of Chinese Foot-Binding Shoes and the Meaning of Chinese Costume History -Focused on Collection of Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum-
- Xu, Rui (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University) ;
- Bae, Soojeong (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University, Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University)
- 투고 : 2015.03.28
- 심사 : 2015.07.24
- 발행 : 2015.09.30
The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.
- Bae, S. (2011). An analysis on the color trend of street fashion in Dalian, China. Journal of Fashion Business, 15(5), 166.
- Chen, Q. (2013). Shoes speak. Bei Jing: The Commercial Press.
- Cha, E. & Park, M. (2001). The symbolic meaning of footbinding. Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(8), 1398-1407.
- Fairbank, J. K., Reischauer, E. O., & Craig, A. M. (1991). Eastern cultural history. (H. Kim., Y. Jeon., & B. Yun, Trans.). Seoul: Eulyoo.
- Feng, J. C. (1994). The three-inch golden lotus: a novel on foot binding. (Wakefield, D. Trans.). Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. (Original work published 1986).
- Gao, H. X. (1995). 纏足史. [The history of foot binding]. Shang Hai: Shanghai Literature & Art Press.
- Hong, N., Shin, H., & Choi, J. (Eds.). (2004). 아시아 전통복식. [Traditional costumes ofasia]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
- Seok Juseon Memorial Museum of Dankook University. (2004). Boots and shoes= shoes in the Joseon dynasty. Seoul: Seok Juseon
- Memorial Museum of Dankook University. Jung, Y. (2003). Cultural significance of foot binding and foot wear. The Review of Folk Life And Culture, 10. 29-65.
- Kim, H., & Shin, S. (1998). Historical review on the chinese footbinding. Korean Journal of Physical Eduaction, 37(3). 9-17.
- Kim, S. & Shim, H. (2002). A study on oriental embroidery through the modern fashion. Journal of Fashion Business, 6(2), 44.
- Ko, B. (1997). 동아시아 문화사 논고. [The east asian cultural historiography theory]. Seoul: Seoul University Press.
- Ko, D. (2001). Every step a lotus: shoes for bound feet. Oakland: University of California Press.
- Lee, K. (1999). The brief history of chinese footbinding. International Area Review, 3(3). 197-216.
- Lee, S. (2013). A study on the design of women's high heels from the perspective of flower's symbolic eroticism(Unpublished master's thesis). Seoul National University of Science and Technology, Seoul, Korea.
- Lim, B. & Cho. J. (2013). Development of a man's fashion goods design using a traditional bat pattern. Journal of Fashion Business, 17(2), 97.
- Park, J. (2011). The foot-binding: abnormal culture in chinese women's history. The Public Humanities, 21. 198-232.
- Rudofsky, B. (1984). The unfashionable human body. NY: Doubleday.
- Shin, Y. (1998). 복식의 정신문화. [The spirit culture of costume]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
- Soh, H. (2006). A study of the aesthetic chinese foot-binding. Korean culture, 9(1), 108-116.
- The three-inch golden lotus. (2010, January 18). Retrieved June 3, 2015, from http://www.footbinding.com.tw/site2/index.html.
- The three-inch golden lotus. The three-inch golden lotus length 10cm, refers to the foot-binding women's feet. Retrieved October 20, 2014, from http://baike.baidu.com/subview/1740/11105634.htm.
- The three-Inch golden lotus. Retrieved March 25, 2015, from http://www.amazon.com/three-inch-golden-lotus-binding-fiction/dp/0824816064/ref=
- Wang, P. (2002). Aching for beauty: footbinding in china. NY: University of Minnesota Press.
- Won, Y. (2012). The literature study of foot-binding culture (Unpublished master's thesis). Dongguk University, Seoul, Korea.
- Xu, K. 足纖小, 每繡履. [Tiny foot each embroidered on the shoe]. Retrieved December 29, 2014, from http://wenxian.fanren8.com/05/08/324/103.ht
- Xu, R., Kim M., & Bae S. (2014). An analysis on the form and decoration of foot-binding shoes in china. Journal of Fashion Business, 18(1), 66-69.
- Ye, L. Y. (2011). 中國歴代鞋饰. [Chinese footwear of past dynasties]. Hang Zhou: Chinese Academy of Fine Arts Press.
- Yu, Y. Y. (2013). By foot-binding and body-hugging underwear to see the comparison of eastern and western aesthetic characteristics of costume culture(Unpublished master's thesis). Tongmyong University, Busan, Korea.
- Zhang, R. H. (2014). 三寸金莲一千年. [A thousand years of the three-inch golden lotus]. Shan Dong: Shandong Pictorial Press.
- Zhou, Y. S. 试仿鞋杯传绮席. [The cup which shaped from the foot-binding shoes], Retrieved December 29, 2014, from http://m.bookben.com/read/33_33325/7.html.