30대 남성복 슬림 핏 재킷의 버튼 수에 따른 재킷원형 개발 제1보 - 여유분을 중심으로 -

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김명옥;김경아
Kim, Myoung-Ok;Kim, Kyung-A

  • 투고 : 2015.07.29
  • 심사 : 2015.09.08
  • 발행 : 2015.10.31

초록

This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.

키워드

남성복;재킷;패턴설계;여유분

참고문헌

  1. Kim, J. S., & Lee, W. J. (2004). A study on the design of men's jacket pattern. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 12(6), 953-970.
  2. Kim, M. J., & Jo, J. S. (2006). A study on the basic pattern of men's casual jacket. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 30(2), 207-220.
  3. Kim, M. J., Kim, M. O., & Park, S. K. (2014). Comparison and analysis of men's classic-fit and slim-fit shirt patterns: Utilizing the 3D virtual try-on system. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 22(2), 209-224. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.2.209 https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2014.22.2.209
  4. Kim, M. O. (2015). Patternmaking of men's slim-fit jacket sloper in their 30's Part 2: Focusing on 6-panel jacket. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 17(1), 93-101. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.93 https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.93
  5. Kim, M. O., & Suh, M. A. (2011). Survey on purchase and fitting of menswear suits according to styles for consumers in their 30s. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(1), 191-199. https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.1.191
  6. Kim, M. O., & Suh, M. A. (2014). Patternmaking of men's slim-fit jacket sloper in their 30's Part 1: Focusing on four-panel jacket sloper. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 16(2), 275-284. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.275 https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.2.275
  7. Kim, M. O., Kim, I., & Suh, M. A. (2012). Comparisons: Sizes in men's slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, and jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 20(2), 184-194. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.2.184 https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.2.184
  8. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2005). 5th Report of Korean Body Measurements. Seoul: Author.
  9. Petrova, A., & Asdown, S. (2008). Three-dimensional body scan data analysis: Body size and shape dependence of ease values for pants's fit. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 26(3), 227-252. doi:10.1177/0887302X07309479 https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X07309479
  10. Uh, M. K. (2007). The development of jeans pattern according to shrinkage rate of washing finishing. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.

피인용 문헌

  1. 1. Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper for Men in Their 30's according to numbers of Jacket button Part 2 - Focusing on the neck width setting - vol.18, pp.1, 2016, doi:10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.835