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Analysis of Hydraulic Characteristic in Surf Zone using the SWASH Model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach

SWASH 모형을 이용한 태풍 나크리(NAKRI)에 의한 해운대 해수욕장의 쇄파대 수리특성 해석

Lee, Jong-Sup;Park, Myeong-Won;Kang, Min-Ho;Kang, Tae-Soon
이종섭;박명원;강민호;강태순

  • Received : 2015.09.03
  • Accepted : 2015.10.27
  • Published : 2015.10.31

Abstract

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

Keywords

Irregular waves;Wave set-up;Wave-induced currents;Maximum wave run-up height;Longshore currents;Rip currents

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Acknowledgement

Supported by : 해양수산부