DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study of Alexander McQueen's Jacket

알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander McQueen)의 재킷에 관한 연구

  • Received : 2015.11.11
  • Accepted : 2016.02.15
  • Published : 2016.04.30

Abstract

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

Keywords

Alexander McQueen;jacket;tailoring;clothing construction;fashion designer

References

  1. 'L-shaped lapel'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=98&collection=6378&image=924907#.Vr330kmwfug
  2. 'Natural shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=17&collection=7843&image=1139391#.Vr35gUmwfug
  3. 'Notched lapel'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=143&collection=3692&image=550171#.Vr33UEmwfug
  4. 'Pagoda shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=22&collection=6667&image=977960#.Vr36fkmwfug
  5. Park, E. K. (2006). The study of deconstructive expression about fashion and make up appeared in Alexander Mcqueen's fashion show. Unpublished master's thesis, Daegu University, Daegu.
  6. Park, H. K. (2011). A study on madness images expressed in contemporary fashion -Focusing on Alexander Mcqueen's works-. Unpublished master's thesis, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul.
  7. Park, H. W., Lee, M. S., Yum, H. J., Choi, K. H., & Park, S. J. (2007). Contemporary fashion design. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  8. Park, J. H. (2012). Construction by types of broadened shoulder design. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 36(-), 411.
  9. 'Peaked lapel'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=118&collection=1672&image=341647#.Vr33EUmwfug
  10. 'Racing up'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=209&collection=5605&image=809891#.Vr38GEmwfug
  11. Keum, Y. J. (2005). A study on the characteristics of postmodern avant-garde in the fashion design of Alexander Mcqueen -Focusing on the aspects of deconstruction-. Unpublished master's thesis, Sangmyung University, Seoul.
  12. Kim, J. Y., & Lee, H. J. (2005). A study on hybrid trend upon Alexander Mcqueen's work. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 13(2), 300-313.
  13. Kim, K. A. (2012b). A study on contemporary fashion and pattern design through the element of function -Focusing on Alexander Mcqueen-. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Kookmin University, Seoul.
  14. Kim, K. A., & Park, S. K. (2013). Construction analysis by designs of Alexander Mcqueen through functional element. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 14(5), 29-39.
  15. Kim, S. A. (2011). Mix & match fashion trend expressed in the ready to wear collection -Focused on Alexander Mcqueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Garconson-. Journal of Korean Association of Human Ecology, 20(1), 155-168. https://doi.org/10.5934/KJHE.2011.20.1.155
  16. Kim, S. Y. (2008). The grotesque in the work of Alexander Mcqueen. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 58(8), 106-119.
  17. Kim, Y. K. (2012a). A study on romantic characteristics seen through Alexander Mcqueen's fashion brand, A Journal of Brand Design Association of Korea, 10(4), 193-202. https://doi.org/10.18852/bdak.2012.10.4.193
  18. Kim, Y. R. (2010). Reinterpretation of retro in the 21st century fashion-Focusing on John Galliano and Alexander Mcqueen's collections. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 10(2), 69-85.
  19. 'Kimono sleeve'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=149&collection=7843&image=1139523#.Vr34_Umwfug
  20. Kristin, K. (2010). Alexander Mcqueen: Genius of a generation. New York: Bloomsbury Publishing.
  21. Kwon, H. W., & Keum, Y. J. (2008). Characteristics of avant-garde deconstruction-ism expressed in Alexander Mcqueen's design. Journal of Fashion Business, 12(2), 100-116.
  22. 'Lapel collar'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=5&collection=2430&image=425797#.Vr32ZEmwfug
  23. Lee, J. H., & Roh, Y. S. (2012). A study on the formative character of maximalism shown in the works of Alexander Mcqueen. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 62(6), 165-182. doi:10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.165 https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.165
  24. Lee, J. K., & Lee, Y. H. (2014). Characteristics in Paul Smith's contemporary men's jacket design according to the change of gender image. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 16(3), 151-161.
  25. Lee, S. J., & Kwak, T. G. (2012). An analysis of exaggerated jackets shown in 2011 f/w women's wear collections according to details. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 11(3), 61-77.
  26. 'Long length'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=63&collection=1672&image=341592#.Vr3zc0mwfug
  27. 'Drop shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=95&collection=7355&image=1077998#.Vr36YUmwfug
  28. 'Extended shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=26&collection=1672&image=341555#.Vr36Kkmwfug
  29. Fashion dictionary. (5th ed.). (2006). Tokyo: Bunka Publishing Bureau.
  30. 'Fishmouth lapel'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=66&collection=7355&image=1077969#.Vr33o0mwfug
  31. 'Flange shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=13&collection=3692&image=550041#.Vr37MEmwfug
  32. 'Hook and eye'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=71&collection=2430&image=425863#.Vr37rUmwfug
  33. 'Hourglass silhouette'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=101&collection=13022&image=1735220#.Vr3yhEmwfug
  34. Jang, A. R. (2002). Experimental design depicted on Hussein Chalayan' works. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 52(5), 91-107.
  35. Jung, D. Y. (2011). A study on the combinative patterns of lapel and upper collar in tailored jackets with different break line. Unpublished master's thesis, Kyungpook National University, Daegu.
  36. 'Convertible collar'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=4&collection=1672&image=341533#.Vr32pEmwfug
  37. 'Crescent shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=147&collection=5605&image=809829#.Vr3590mwfug
  38. 'Angle shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=117&collection=1474&image=323257#.Vr3640mwfug
  39. Bae, S. J. (1998). A study of the contributors to the british fashion I. Journal of Fashion Business, 2(3), 43-54.
  40. Baek, J. H., & Bae, S. J. (2010). A study on mixture of characteristics shown in the Alexander Mcqueen's design. Proceedings of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Spring Conference, Korea, pp. 211-212.
  41. 'Bell sleeve'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=11&collection=20956&image=2878022#.Vr35Ykmwfug
  42. Bolton, A. (2011). Alexander Mcqueen: Savage beauty. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  43. 'Built-up shoulder'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=127&collection=13022&image=1735246#.Vr37FEmwfug
  44. 'Bulk silhouette'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=87&collection=7843&image=1139461#.Vr3yr0mwfug
  45. 'Button'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=2&collection=12212&image=1607155#.Vr37bEmwfug
  46. Calasibetta, C. M. (1998). Fairchild's dictionary of fashion. New York: Abc Media.
  47. 'Cap sleeve'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=67&collection=15909&image=2156437#.Vr35N0mwfug
  48. 'Cloverleaf lapel'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=26&collection=4118&image=604298#.Vr33d0mwfug
  49. 'Ribbon'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=113&collection=7355&image=1078016#.Vr373kmwfug
  50. 'Short length'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=170&collection=10337&image=1359960#.Vr32QUmwfug
  51. Song, J. S. (2004). A study on the avant-garde of fashion in Alexander Mcqueen's works. Unpublished master's thesis, Sangju National University, Sangju.
  52. Song, J. S., & Park, O. M. (2003). An appearance of avant-garde in modem fashion -Focused on the works of Alexander Mcqueen's collection-. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 9(4), 65-78.
  53. 'Stand collar'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=15&collection=7843&image=1139389#.Vr32iEmwfug
  54. 'Standard length'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=47&collection=6667&image=977985#.Vr3zP0mwfug
  55. 'Straight silhouette'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=130&collection=6043&image=866561#.Vr3y5Umwfug
  56. 'Tent silhouette'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=73&collection=1672&image=341602#.Vr3zA0mwfug
  57. The compilation committee of fashion dictionary. (1999). Fashion dictionary. Seoul: Kyomoonsa.
  58. 'Tight sleeve'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=188&collection=6378&image=924997#.Vr34x0mwfug
  59. Watt, J. (2012). Alexander Mcqueen: Fashion visionary. London: Goodman Books Ltd..
  60. 'Wing collar'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=55&collection=17447&image=2372413#.Vr32xEmwfug
  61. 'Zipper'. (n.d.). Firstview. Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.firstview.com/collection_image_closeup.php?of=51&collection=15909&image=2156421#.Vr37lUmwfug

Cited by

  1. Analysis of the Constructional Components of Chanel Jacket Design vol.20, pp.3, 2018, https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2018.20.3.266

Acknowledgement

Grant : BK21플러스

Supported by : 전남대학교