DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Fashion Criticism in Museology -The Charles James Retrospective-

  • Choi, Kyung-Hee
  • Received : 2015.07.08
  • Accepted : 2016.01.21
  • Published : 2016.06.30

Abstract

This paper proposes a multi-disciplinary approach for fashion criticism in museology through an analysis of the 2014 Charles James's retrospective. It includes the following elicitations. First, it explores a critical discussion of "dress museology" as well as "fashion museology" and the complexity of fashion in museums. Second, this paper reorganizes Fleming's (1974) artifact study and Crane and Bovone's (2006) critical theory for fashion criticism in museology by comparing "object-based" research with an "academic" approach. Third, it applies fashion criticism methodology as a case study to the aforementioned museum fashion exhibit, entitled . We can subsequently begin to reconsider concepts of art and fashion within present culture based on inclusive fashion criticism of aesthetic and cultural events.

Keywords

Fashion;Criticism;Charles James;Dress museology;Fashion museology

References

  1. Alford, H. P., & Stegemeyer, A. (2010). Who's who in fashion (5th ed.). New York, NY: Fairchild Books.
  2. Anderson, F. (2000). Museums as fashion media. In S. Bruzzi & P. C. Gibson (Eds.), Fashion cultures: Theories, explorations and analysis (pp. 371-389). London: Routledge.
  3. Arzalluz, M. (2011). Cristobal Balenciaga: The making of a master (1895-1936). London: V & A Publishing.
  4. Baker, P. (1991). Fashions of a decade: The 1950s. New York, NY: Facts on File.
  5. Barrett, T. (1994). Critics on criticism. The Journal of Aesthetic Education, 28(2), 71-82. doi:10.2307/3333272 https://doi.org/10.2307/3333272
  6. Breward, C. (2008). Between the museum and the academy: Fashion research and its constituencies. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 83-93. doi:10.2752/175174108X269568 https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X269568
  7. Caranicas, P. (2014). Recalling Charles James: Paul Caranicas. THE MET. Retrieved November 10, 2014, from http://www.metmuseum.org/metmedia/audio/exhibitions/recalling-charles-james-paul-caranicas
  8. Charles James: Beyond Fashion, Behind Clothes. (2014, May 16). The Blogazine. Retrieved January 20, 2016, from http://www.theblogazine.com/2014/05/charles-james-beyond-fashion-behind-clothes/
  9. Crane, D., & Bovone, L. (2006). Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing. Poetics, 34(6), 319-333. doi:10.1016/j.poetic.2006.10.002 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.poetic.2006.10.002
  10. Dressing Gown. (2009). THE MET. Retrieved January 20, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159231
  11. Entwistle, J. (2000). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Cambridge: Polity Press.
  12. Feldman, E. B. (1994). Practical art criticism. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice Hall.
  13. Fleming, E. M. (1974). Artifact study: A proposed model. Winterthur Portfolio, 9(1974), 153-173. doi:10.1086/495828 https://doi.org/10.1086/495828
  14. Frye, N. (1957). Anatomy of criticism: Four essays. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.
  15. Gothic. (2009). THE MET. Retrieved January 20, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158524?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=2009.300.3572&pos=1&imgno=1&tabname=label
  16. Hay, R. C. (2014). Recalling Charles James: R. Couri Hay. THE MET. Retrieved November 10, 2014, from http://www.metmuseum.org/metmedia/audio/exhibitions/recalling-charles-james-r-couri-hay
  17. Hecht, M. E. (2014). Recalling Charles James: Mary Ellen Hecht. THE MET. Retrieved November 10, 2014, from http://www.metmuseum.org/metmedia/audio/exhibitions/recalling-charles-james-mary-ellen-hecht
  18. High, R. (2014, May 8). Interview with Charles James: Beyond Fashion Co-author Jan Glier Reeder. THE MET. Retrieved October 15, 2014, from http://www.metmuseum.org/about-the-museum/now-at-the-met/2014/charles-james-featured-publication
  19. Images. (2014). THE MET. Retrieved January 20, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2014/charles-james-beyond-fashion/images
  20. Koda, H. (2014). The calculus of fashion: Process and oeuvre. In H. Koda & J. G. Reeder (Eds.), Charles James: Beyond fashion (pp. 53-232). New York, NY: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  21. Koda, H., & Glasscock, J. (2014). The costume institute at the Metropolitan Museum of art: An evolving history. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 21-32). London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  22. Koda, H., & Reeder, J. G. (Eds.). (2014). Charles James: Beyond fashion. New York, NY: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  23. Martin, R. (1997). Charles James (Fashion Memoir). London: Thames & Hudson.
  24. McNeil, P., & Miller, S. (2014). Fashion writing and criticism: History, theory, practice (1th ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  25. Milbank, C. R. (1985). Couture, the great designers (1th ed.). New York, NY: Stewart, Tabori & Chang.
  26. Milbank, C. R. (1989). New York fashion: The evolution of American style (1th ed.). New York, NY: Abrams.
  27. Palmer, A. (2008). Untouchable: Creating desire and knowledge in museum costume and textile exhibitions. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 31-63. doi:10.2752/175174108X268136 https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X268136
  28. Pochna, M. F., & Dior, C. (1996). Dior. New York, NY: Universe/Vendome.
  29. Polan, B., & Tredre, R. (2009). The great fashion designers (1th ed.). Oxford: Berg.
  30. Reeder, J. G. (2012, March). Charles James (1906-1978). THE MET. Retrieved January 20, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/cjam/hd_cjam.htm
  31. Riegels Melchior, M. (2014). Introduction. Understanding fashion and dress museology. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 1-16). London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  32. Social Media. (2014). THE MET. Retrieved January 20, 2016, from http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2014/charles-james-beyond-fashion/social
  33. Steele, V. (1991). Women of fashion: Twentieth-century designers (1th ed.). New York, NY: Rizzoli.
  34. Steele, V. (1998). A museum of fashion is more than a clothes-bag. Fashion Theory, 2(4), 327-335. doi:10.2752/136270498779476109 https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476109
  35. Steele, V. (2008). Museum quality: The rise of the fashion exhibition. Fashion Theory, 12(1), 7-30. doi:10.2752/175174108X268127 https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108X268127
  36. Strong-Cuevas, E. (2014). Recalling Charles James: Elizabeth Strong-Cuevas. THE MET. Retrieved November 10, 2014, from http://www.metmuseum.org/metmedia/audio/exhibitions/recalling-charles-james-elizabeth-strongcuevas
  37. Svensson, B. (2014). In conclusion: Museums dressed in fashion. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 197-205). London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  38. Taylor, L. (1998). Doing the laundry? A reassessment of object-based dress history. Fashion Theory, 2(4), 337-358. doi:10.2752/136270498779476118 https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476118
  39. Teunissen, J. (2014). Understanding fashion through the museum. In M. R. Melchior & B. Svensson (Eds.), Fashion and museums: Theory and practice (pp. 33-45). London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  40. Thurman, J. (2014, May 5). Dressing up: How Charles James elevated American fashion. The New Yorker. Retrieved May 8, 2014, from http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/atlarge/2014/05/05/140505crat_atlarge_thurman?currentPage=all

Acknowledgement

Supported by : Hansung University