Critical Messages on the Fashion Industry System and Fashion Consumption Culture in Critical Fashion Design

크리티컬 패션에 표현된 패션산업 시스템과 패션소비문화에 대한 비평적 메시지

  • Jung, Junghee (Dept. of Fashion Design, School of Art, Sungkyunkwan University) ;
  • Yim, Eunhyuk (Dept. of Fashion Design, School of Art, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • 정정희 (성균관대학교 의상학과) ;
  • 임은혁 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
  • Received : 2019.09.10
  • Accepted : 2019.11.14
  • Published : 2019.12.31


This study defines critical fashion designs and investigate its critical messages on fashion itself. The critical messages on fashion are categorized into two major issues of a fashion industry system and fashion consumer culture. This study contributes to the understanding of meaning and value for critical fashion messages that match critical art. As the research method, this study combines a literature review and case studies and the research scope focuses on cases that have appeared in fashion media since the 2000s when social critical messages in fashion began to emerge. The results of the study are as follows. Critical designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Elisa van Joolen, Issey Miyake, and Mary Ping have delivered messages challenging the nature of fashion industry system that criticize the cycle and limitation of a fashion system and pursues changes in perception of sustainability. The critical message on fashion consumer culture articulated by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, and Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios insist on the formation of community while delivering a critical message on social, political, and cultural problems that raise the mechanism of social awareness through fashion design.


  1. Annamari, V., & Clark, H. (2018). Fashion curating: Critical practice in the museum. London, Oxford, New York, New Delhi, Sydney: Bloomsbury Academic.
  2. Aspden, P. (2010, August 28). Hussein Chalayan's east-west fusion. Financial Times. Retrieved June 7, 2019, from
  3. Braham, P. (1997). Fashion: Unpacking a cultural production, in Paul. du Gay, Production of culture, cultures of production. London: Sage.
  4. Baik, Y. J., & Lee, Y. R. (2009). Understanding of the fashion industry. Seoul: Korea National Open University.
  5. Calinescu, M. (1993). Five faces of modernity: Modernism, avantgarde, decadence, kitsch, postmodernism (Y. W. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Visual and language. (Original work published 1987)
  6. Choi, Y. Y. (1987). Art in a capitalist society. Chungnam National University, 16, 221-230.
  7. Entwistle, J. (2013). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory (K. H. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Hansung University. (Original work published 2000)
  8. Fine, B., & Leopold, E. (1993). The world of consumption. London: Routledge.
  9. Fletcher, K. (2011). Sustainable fashion and textiles (J. H. Lee, Trans.). Paju: Gyomoonsa. (Original work published 2008)
  10. Foster, H., Krauss, R., Bois, Y. A.., & Benjamin, B. (2007). Art since 1900: modernism, antimodernism, postmodernism (S. H. Bae, Trans.). Seoul: Semicolon. (Original work published 2004)
  11. Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2018). The end of fashion: Clothing and dress in the age of globalization. New York: Bloomsbury Academic.
  12. Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2017). Critical fashion practice: From westwood to van beirendonck. London, Oxford, New York, New Delhi, Sydney: Bloomsbury Academic.
  13. Geczy, A., & Millner, J. (2015). Fashionable art. New York, London: Bloomsbury.
  14. Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2012). Fashion and art. New York, London: Berg.
  15. Gim, J. G. (2004, July). The age of engagement and behavioral aesthetics: Behavioral aesthetics based on modern-postmodernism. Culture and Art, pp. 91-94.
  16. Graham, C. S. (2006). Deconstructing installation art: Fine art and media art, 1986-2006. Southampton: CASIAD.
  17. Hoskins, T. E. (2016). Stitched up: Anti-capitalist book of fashion (J. S. Kim, Trans.). Paju: Munhakdongne. (Original work published 2014)
  18. 'I Am Sad Leyla / Uzgunum Leyla, 2010'. (2010, September 17). Lissongallery. Retrieved August 10, 2019, from
  19. Jeong, H. S. (1995). A study of postmodernism expressed in fashion. Unpublished doctoral dissertations, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul.
  20. Jones, D. (2009, October 2). Vivienne Westwood. Vogue. Retrieved August 1, 2019, from
  21. Joo, H. Y. (2011). African diaspora and contemporary art: Focusing on works by Yinka Shonibare and Chris Ofili. Korea society of Basic Design & Art, 12(5), 527-539.
  22. Joo, S. Y. (2015). Fashion industry system and fashion leaders in the digital era. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  23. Jung, J. H., & Yim, E. H. (2019). What is critical fashion?. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 21(5), 540-551. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2019.21.5.540
  24. Kang, T. H. (2006). I'll be your mirror. Association of Western Art History, 25(0), 174-199.
  25. Kim, Y. C. (2009). Counterculture movement and social design in Korea. Unpublished doctoral dissertations, Hongik University, Seoul.
  26. Kim, H. J., & Na, H. S. (2015). A case study on the sustainable fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 15(3), 53-68. doi:10.18652/2015.15.3.4
  27. Kim, S. U. (2016). A study on social criticism of activism expressing in postmodern art. Unpublished master's thesis, University of Seoul, Seoul.
  28. Kwon, J. Y. (2008). A study on the conceptual fashion. Unpublished doctoral dissertations, Hongik University, Seoul.
  29. Lim, K. J. (2018, June 15). Answer the requests you to anticipate the future of the show. Chungwoo. Retrieved June 7, 2019, from
  30. Lee, S. H., & No, Y. H. (2017). A study on the 'personal privatization' of ordinary objects: The strategies of appropriation and re-appropriation. The Korean Society of Art and Media, 16(2), 51-70.
  31. Lee, E. K. (2015). A study on parodies in the postmodern era: With a focus on the author's works. Unpublished master's thesis, Hongik University, Seoul.
  32. Lee, S. L. (2012). Issey Miyake from the perspective of social practices. Korean Society of Design Science, 25(1), 167-178.
  33. Lim, A. R. (2016). Tendency of antifashion on Kinfolk magazion. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul.
  34. Mitchell, O. S., & Alison, K. (2013). Art/fashion in the 21st century. London: Thames & Hudson.
  35. Miller, M. L. (2009). Slaves to fashion. Durham & London: Duke University Press.
  36. McCracken, G. (1996). Culture and consumption II: Markets, meaning, and brand management (S. R. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye. (Original work published 1988)
  37. Nam, H. N. (2010). A study of sustainable fashion design. The Korean Society of Fashion Design, 19(2), 53-68.
  38. Off-white, Seeing Things, 2017 F/W. (n. d.). Off-white c/o collections. Retrieved July 28, 2019, from
  39. Otto von, B. (2008). Fashion-able: Hactivism and engaged fashion design. Gothenburg: Art Monitor.
  40. Pistilli, O. K. (2018). The heritage-creativity interplay. How fashion designers are reinventing heritage as modern design: The French case. ZoneModa Journal, 8(1), 77-95. doi:10.6092/issn.2611-0563/8223
  41. Park, J. H. (2008). Sociological understanding of everyday life. Paju: Hanul.
  42. Park, N. Y. (2002). (The) city of the spectacle/situationist city : A study on Guy Debord's theory of the spectacle. Unpublished doctoral dissertations, Hongik University, Seoul.
  43. Sim, S. Y. (2001). Le desir de la peinture sans visage est partout!. 예술논총, 4(0), 3-26.
  44. Scardi, G., Entwistle, J., & Orta, L. (2011). Aware: Art fashion identity. London: Damiani.
  45. Fleury, S. (1993). Sylvie Fleury: The art of survival. Graz: Neue Galerie am Landesmuseum Joanneum.
  46. Teunissen, J., & Brand, J. (2013). A fashion odyssey: Progress in fashion and sustainability. Arnhem: Artez Press.
  47. Teunissen, J., Nefkens, H., Arts, J., & van der Voet, H. (2014). The future of fashion is now: Dutch exhibition catalogue. Rotterdam: Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen.
  48. Terry, J., & Avril, M. (2000). Fashion now: I-D selects the world's 150 most important designers. Cologne: Taschen.
  49. Yoo, H. Y., & Yang, J. H. (2015). Research on consumer society of desire seen through the pictures of martin parr: Focused on re-created consumer society. International Journal of Contents, 15(8), 149-155. doi:10.5392/JKCA.2015.15.08.149
  50. Yoo, J. B. (2015, September 21). 2016 S/S Vivienne Westwood red label collection. Fashion. Retrieved August 10, 2019, from
  51. Kang, S. J. (2009). Rights not to be hurt. Seoul: Pronesys.