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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15 - Oct 1990
Volume 4, Issue 15 - Oct 1990
Volume 14 - May 1990
Selecting the target year
한국(韓國).몽고복식(蒙古服飾)의 상관성(相關性) 연구(硏究)(I) - 복식(服飾)의 양식(樣式) 비교(比較)를 중심(中心)으로 -
Son, Gyeong-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 21~39
Park, Seong-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 41~62
A Study on the Religious Costume in Korea - Buddhist and Taoist Costume -
Im, Yeong-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 63~73
The thought of three religious, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, had been the mainaxis of Korean spirit of the past. This study is centered on Buddhist and Taoist costume. There have been a lot of studies on Korean costume from many viewpoints. However, there have been few approaches to the inner !"ide of it. That is to say, the research on spiritual back-ground or religious correlation has not done yet. And especially, we are wholly lacking the studies on Taoist costume. In this dissertation, I investigate how they had come to wear Buddhist costume and how it trans, on the basis of related documentary records and existing remains. I also inquiry Taoist costume which was worn at Taoist ceremony in our country, with the help of Korean books and documents and of the sources of Packwoonkwan in China. In the case of Topobyunjeung in Korean costume, in particular, we can catch the source of it only after studying the religious side of Taoist costume and Buddhist costume. As revealed in the theory of Topobyunjeung in Ojuyunmoonja-ngsango by Lee, Kyu Kyung, even old masters and great Confucianists could not know whether Topo, the ordinary clothes of the Sadaeboo, originated from Taoist costume or Buddhist costume. There have been many opinions about the origin, but even now it is true that no one has made it clear. Therefore in this dissertatio I demonstrate mainly how Topo and Hakchangeui appeared in Korean costume through Taoist costume. It is said that Taoists, Buddhists, and literary men wore Topo, Chickchul, and Chickshin in Song dynasty of China. Topo was a clerical robe of Taoists and was also an ordinary clothes. Chick-chul was a clerical robe of Buddhists, and Chick-shin was worn by Zen priests in Won dynaty. Over the Po, Buddhist wore a large robe, namely Kasa, and Taoist wore Packhakchang like Wooeui, when they attended at the religious ceremony. And they regarded such manner of dressing as ceremonial full-dress attire. The style of Topo in China was Saryunggyogeo. The is th say that they put the black Yeon along Sajoo, which are Young, Soogoo, Keum, and Keo, and that they wore Sajodae around their waists so as to let the band down in front of them. Our existing type of Topo is that of Chickryung-gyoin. The characteristics of the type are its Koreum hung on the dress, no Yeon along Sajoo, and Soopok at the back of the dress. And when they put on the dress, they wear Saejodae around their waists. These characteristics considered, we can find the source of Topo from the Po of Chickshin among Buddhist costume. Other types of Topo are those that were transformed elegantly according to our national manners and customs in our country. So-called Wooeui in Chiness Taoism is Hakchang. Originally it was made by weaving for of cranes or other feathered birds. Its remarkable feature is the wide sleeves. Later they called such a robe with wide sleeves Hakchang. Our hakchangeui has Yeon along Sajoo and a belt around waist. We can guess that the features of Topo and wide-sleeved Hakchang mingled and turned into Hakchangeui. Or it might also be that Topa worn by Taoist was regarded as Hakchang and Topa which has Yeon along Sajoo was regarded as Hakchangeui in our country. Such type of Hakchang worn by Taoists was well shown in the Buddhist and Taoist paintings among "The Pictures of Hills, Waters, and Folks" in the latter half of the 16th century. In China Hakchang with a belt around waist could not be seen. Comparing our style of Hakchangeui with the Chinese style, we can recognize the former was similar to that of Chinese Topa. From this, we gather that Topa was regarded as Hakchang, Wooeui worn by Taoists, Ascetics and True Men in Korea. Furthermore I also gather that our Hakchangeui, which has Tongjeong, Koreurn and a belt around waist, was a transformed style in our own country. From the above, we can realize that in costume the three religions, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, cannot be treated separately although they are different each other in the essential thought. We have to recognize that Korean Costume was established under the closely connected correlation among the religions and that it was transfigured and accepted according to the cultural characteristics. This study is significant in that it is the first attempt to understand Korean costume through the religous approach, which has never been made in our Korean costume studies. We are demanded even more wide and profound investigation on the religious side of costume throughout the general field of costume studies.
The Costume in Li chi (I) - Chi Li -
Kim, Jin-Goo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 75~85
The dress and personal adorments of Chi Li in Li Chi was investigated in this study. The summary of this study is as follows: It was found that the ancient Chinese used their dress and personal adornments as an important means of maintaining or establishing harmony with the universe, supernaturals, and human beings. It also appeared that dress was used to control man's psychology and to maintain social order. Differentiation of person's social status and position was made by using dress and personal adornments. Ceremonial costume such as mourning appeared considerably in Chi Li.
고대(古代) 한국염색(韓國染色)과 중국염색(中國染色)의 비교연구(比較硏究)
Jo, Hyo-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 87~97
A study on the transitional process of clothes in modern Korean women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 98~98
The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modern Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improv-ement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900''''s and 1960''''s. In additiov. the study investigated how western clothes bec-ame popular in a Korean society along with the traditional'''' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women''''s thinking, and consequenty the improv-ement of Hanbok which developed into the clot-hes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and China. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which len-gthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occu-rred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomosin in place of Jipsiv. socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the divers-ification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic develop-ment in the 1960''''s. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differe-ntiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary womev. girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920''''s to the Liberatiov. which conseq-uently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the wear between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regu-lation over the clothes.
A study on the transitional process of clothes in modern Korean women
Nam, Yun-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 99~117
The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.
다리미와 인두에 관한 소고
Lee, Eun-Gyeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 119~132
The effect of color fastness on agent in the Gromwell Dyeing
Chu, Young-Ju ; So, Hwang-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 133~144
The purpose of this study is to investigate the absorbance of the Shikonin, one of the major purple pigments, and the stability against the effect of light,
, and temperature. The effect of mordant and mordanting condition to color and color-fastness is compared and analysed through the color-fastness-test, color-difference value-test, and IR-test. The results were as follows; 1. The absorbance of Shikonin was examinated through 6 kinds of solutions and distilled water. Shikonin was absorbed by solutions rather easily than distilled water. 2. The light effect to Shikonin indicated that the solution with the light was more stable than that without it. 3. The effect of
to Shikonin showed that the solution with the
was more stable that without it
. 4. Shikonin -methyl alcohol solution was stable in
. It was unstable in
with lowered absorbance and changed colors. 5. Color-fastness test to silk and cotton indicated washing color-fastness and perspiration color-fastness was more than 3 grade. But the light color-fastness and crocking color-fastness was low. 6. The comparison between non -colored sample and colored-sample showed the latter was better in fastness. 7. Mordant as
was better than anything else in fastness. 8. Color-difference value-test indicated that the mordant which had the jade green color, the original purple pigment color, was the best in use. 9. The best way to extract the original purple pigment color was in
, because extracted dyeing solution by Soxhlet had the bluish color.
A Study on the Costumes in the Dong A II Bo -
Son, Myong-Im ; Kim, Jin-Goo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 145~165
This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.
A STUDY ON THE BEAUTY IN CHOSON COSTUME
Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 167~183
As an attempt to view Chason costume from a aesthetic perspective, the aesthetic values of the Choson people, as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics of costumes, are pursued in this study. To appreciate the beauty of the traditional Korean costume, the following aesthetic characteristics of Choson costumes are investigated: form, color, pattern, material and ornament. From the view point of aesthetics, this study shows that Choson costume had comfortable and voluminous forms with beautiful curved lines and rhythm. The most favored colors were white and natural colors of materials. However unusual combination of colors such as the contrast of black and white, the harmony of the primary and rainbow colors were often used. Patterns revealed two aspects : while subdued patterns generally prevail, at times the unexpected beauty of primary colored patterns draws our attention. Smooth natural materials were preferred. Ornaments both for practical and decorative purposes were used together with certain colors and patterens, indicating wearer's status and warding off the evil's spirits. The aesthetic values in costumes as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics can be classified into the following categories: the beauty of nature, the beauty of personality, the aesthetics of evil's eye and the beauty of tradition. The beauty of nature, as appreciated by the Chason people through their prevailing nature, the "Pung-rew Spirit" and through their Worship of Heaven, produced aesthetic characteristics in harmony with nature. The beauty of personality influenced by the ethical standard of Confucianism produced aesthetic characteristics in costumes, through which the appropriate personality was shown for the appropriate social status. On the other hand, the aesthetics of evil's eye, rooted deeply in Folk religion and Shamanism, contributed to various aesthetic characteristics, which strongly inclined to sorcery and symbolism through choice of patterns, colors and ornaments. Finally, the beauty of tradition, which was based on the ethics of Confucianism and the Choson people's conservative tendencies, demonstrated the strong tendency to adhere to the external characteristics of the Choson costume. These aesthetic values were the yardsticks of the aesthetic judgment of the Choson people. These values influenced Chason people in designing costumes and in appreciating the beauty of costumes. The aesthetic experience and attitudes of the Chason people, which were based on these aesthetic values, represented their aesthetic consciousness and desires.
A Study on Characteristics of Fashion Opinion Leaders
Chung, Hyei-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 185~198
The purpose of this study is to identify and profile Korean women's fashion opinion leaders on demographic, psychological and communication channels dimensions. The questionnaire was administered to 1204 students from a purposively selected. women's universities in Seoul. The data was analyzed using
-test, t-test, multiple regression analysis and discriminant analysis, The significance level was set at. 05. The major findings derived from analysis are as follows: 1. Fashion opinion leaders are generally come from families with higher income, more education and higher occupational status than followers. 2. Fashion opinion leaders are more likely to be exhibitionistic, self-confident, individualistic, risk taking and gregarious than followers. 3. Fashion opinion leaders are more exposed to impersonal communication media, especially to fashion magazines than followers. These findings imply an obvious usefulness for both manufacturers in the apparel industry as well as retailers to help them in the identification of their target market for the introduction and acceptance of fashion items.
지체장애자(肢體障碍者)의 체형(體刑)에 관한 연구(硏究) - 편마비자(片麻痺者)의 동상부(胴上部)를 중심(中心)으로
Son, Mi-Suk ; Sim, Bu-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 199~208
In order to eximine the body form of the physically handicapped people, the 11 items of angle, 54 items of size and weight of the subjects were measured body silhouetter photographs and with the Martin's anthrophometeric instrument respectively. The subjects were consist of 37 boy students who are 13-19 years old and hemiplegias caused by cerebral palsy. And then the comparison between normal and paralysis sides, analysis of somatotypes with the body silhouetter photographs, ANOVA for effect of somatotype on measuring items for angles, and factor analysis for all items were carried out. The results were as follows: 1. The results of measuring are difference between normal and paralysis sides. 2. The items shown significant differences between normal and paralysis sides are diagonal anterior chest B, scapula length, armscye girth, diagonal posterior chest A, and arc of the bust. 3. The percentage of each somatotype shows the order of bending somatotype, turning over somatotype, turning over-bending somatotype, and standard somatotype in the upper body. There are significant differences between somatotypes and sternalis up, sternalis down, scapula, vertebialis,
angles respectively. 4. From the result of factor analysis, front and back sections, length items of the upper part and the lower part from the bust line, and the upper size items at the bottom of armscye were abstracted.
동물성(動物性) 섬유(纖維)의 화학적(化學的) 조성분(組成分)이 피복재료(被服材料)의 특성(特性)에 미치는 영향(影響) - I. 한국산(韓國産) 양모(羊毛)의 화학적(化學的) 조성분(組成分) -
Gang, Suk-Yeo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 14, 1990, Pages 209~213
In the present research to evalulate the chemical composition of wool under Korean feeding conditions have been investicated. The experiment was designed two treatments (washed and non-washed wool) and devided inner and outer side wool each treatment. The criteria for evaluation of wool with chemical composition were protein, fat, ash, amino acid and mineral content. The results which were obtained as follows: 1. Average protein content of non-washed and washed wool were 76.05% and 92.31%, respectively. However it was not different in protein content between inner and outer side wool. 2. Average fat content of non-washed and washed wool were 12.43% and 5.77%, respectively. However inner side wool was more fat content than outer side wool. 3. Average ash content of non-washed and washed wool were 10.50% and 0.90%, respectively. However inner side wool was less ash content than outer side wool. 4. Amino acid composition was not different between inner side and outer side wool. However lysine, arginine, proline, and glycine content of inner side wool were higher than those of outer side wool. 5. Mineral content of non -washed wool were higher than those of washed wool. Potassium content of non-washed wool was very high compare with that of washed wool.