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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 15 - Oct 1990
Volume 4, Issue 15 - Oct 1990
Volume 14 - May 1990
Selecting the target year
한국복식(韓國服飾)과 한국회화 - 그 전통(傳統)의 계승발전(繼承發展)을 위하여 -
Lee, Gyeong-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 15~20
A study on the Korean trousers pattern design
Lee, Soon-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 21~45
The purpose of this thesis is to study the method of the reasonable pattern design. The studying method is based on the original principle of the trousers' cutting and I have a hypothesis about the trousers pattern which should be proved. When I selected the practical method, I made use of the international measuring rule, graph paper and tracing paper, in order to prove the new pattern design. The reasonable pattern design should be the one of the suitable original principles to be suited in the design through any measurement. Therefore, I have discussed the above mentioned design. I find out the conclusion to prove the hypothesis of pattern design with the experimental measure after showing the above mentiond design. The characteristics is as follows. First : To be convinient when walking, because of little degree as folding of the front part of trousers with the under-angle. Second : To be suitable in proportion to the length of trousers and the under-angle. Third ; When folding the center line of the Sapok (a name of one of the trousers parts), the length of the Sapoks is same and harmonized with the Sapoks because of the same angle of both Sapoks in any case of the measurement. Fourth : No correction of the lines when dressing, for the same points of the large Sapok and the small one. Fifth : To be easiness of the pattern design through the concrete measurement. I could find out a little extent errors of pattern showings, an easiness of dressing, scientification of formation in Korean trousers and standard of the practical measurement in the program to be presented as the result of studying.
거가잡복고(居家雜服攷)를 통해 본 조선시대의 복식풍속
Jo, Hyo-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 47~54
Kyu-Soo Park wrote the book "Gur Ga Jap Bok Ko" (Proposition for Household Casuals) around A.D. 1865. He was a widely-learned man and a proponent of Korean self-consciou-seness like his fellow Pragmafist against then prevailing Chinese influence, which had already penetrated deeply into ordinary life style. According to this fact we can see not only the general dress-cystoms but the new customs of some high-birth People with evident self-consciouseness like him at that time. For example, they wore "Sim Eui" and "Bok Gun" as the dress of their ordinary life in spite of the general dress custom wearing the "Do Po" (Traditional Korean full-dress attire) and "Gat" (Traditional cylindrical Korean hat) as an ordinary or a ceremonial dress irrespective of rank at that time. Women wore an overcoat with "Chima" and "Jur. Go Ri" instead of the shortened "Jur, Go Ri" and buttock exagerating "Chima" largely popular at that time too. And also wore "So Eui" instead of "won Sam" or "Dang Eui" prevailing for the psychological resemblance of higher ranking group. Male yougnsters wore "Sa Gyu Sam" as an ordinary life dress and Girls wore "Chima and Jur Go Ri".
한국복식의 30년간 연구동향 - (
Kim, Mi-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 55~61
복온공주(福溫公主) 복식유품(服飾遺品)에 나타난 문양(紋樣)에 관한 소고(小考)
Lee, Sang-Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 63~76
The purpose of this paper is to de31 with the sorts, significances and characteristics of the devices embroiderered on the ritual dreses(hwarot), skirts and embroidered-cushions among the relics of Princess Bok-On(A.D.
), the second daughter of King Soon-Jo(A.D.
) in the Yi Dynasty. Her ritual dresses(hwarot)adopt the devices of Buddhism style, Taoism one, Chinese one and Korean one together in mixture, and have no letter-devices in embroidering treasure-devices. Her skirts have the ornament signifying the Orientalism, and express the spiritual world symbolically and artistically. Her embroidered-cushions make harmonization of Confucianism and Buddhism on the splendid base-cloth, and create a unique art style of Korea.
우리나라 포(袍)의 유형(類型) 및 원류(源流)에 관한 연구(硏究)
Lee, Hae-Yeong ; Kim, Mun-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 77~86
고구려(高句麗) 고분벽화복식(古墳壁畵服飾)과 사회계층(社會階層)
Kim, Jeong-Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 87~94
고려시대(高麗時代)의 견직물(絹織物)과 그 제직(製織)에 관한 연구(硏究)
Jo, Hyo-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 95~106
과학기술의 발달이 한국 여성복식의 변화에 미친 영향 -
을 중심으로 -
Park, Gil-Sun ; Kim, Jin-Gu ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 107~119
한국복식(韓國服飾)에 표현(表現)된 흔들림과 떨림의 미(美)
Geum, Gi-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 121~130
This study is focused on the swinging and trembling effect expressed in Korean costume from ancient days to the present. The swinging is a term standing for gentle movements that are created and implied by the long ties, strings, tassels, pendants and hanging ornamentations. These attatched elements of the costume move as the wearer moves. Trembling is a term expressing small vibrating movement which is created by the tiny decorative motifs attatched to Korean costume. This little decorative elements were attatched to the royal crown, earings, necklaces even the sole of the metalic shoes for a change and to draw viewers attention. The Swinging and Trembling have been used mainly to express the decorative desires. The Swinging on shaman costume is a expression of the aesthetics of evil's eye, while the Swinging shown on the costume of a schalor is expressing the beauty of personality and nature. In General during the Choson Period, the Swinging of the tassels, ribbons, string belts is a expression of the beauty of nature. Consequently the Swinging and the Trembling are the typical examples of the "Meot"(멋), Korean traditional aesthetics.
가사(袈裟)에 관한 연구(硏究) - 율(律)에 나타난 가사(袈裟)와 우리나라 가사(袈裟)의 비교.연구를 중심(中心)으로 -
An, Myeong-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 131~139
한복개량 운동에 관한 고찰 - 여성복을 중심으로 -
Hong, Na-Yeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 141~148
A Study on the Transition of Korean Clothes Since the 1950's
Jin, Mee-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 149~166
Korean clothes is traditional folk costume native to Korea, Which is in Korea clothes. The past Korean costume was developed in the native costume, together influenced by chinese costume. But in the late Yi dynasty the contact with western countries brought about a turning point in Korean costume history, with rapid growth of economy since Korean war in the 1950's, the magnification of industrial structure, the development of productive technique, transformation of consumption pattern and the development of communication have been increased concerns for the western costume. In 1953 the introduction of nylon which was imported from Japanese brought about a fuming point in clothing habits. In 1967 the development of the fiber industry got a firm stand in ready-made clothes. Consequently our traditional Korean clothes was regarded as nonfunctional, nonproductive and it was pushed out of daily life little by little and it was deprived of the function of ordinary costume by the influence of western costume. But in these days the Korean clothes appears as the desire of pursuing traditional style in addition to mordern style of Korean clothes.
Yu, Hye-Yeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 167~175
A study on the origination and transmission of Koh(袴) in Northeast Asia-from the 4th century to 7th century
Park, Kyung-Ja ; Lee, Jean-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 177~194
Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.
마왕퇴(馬王堆) 한묘(漢墓) 출토물(出土物)을 통해 본 한대(漢代)의 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究)
Kim, So-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 195~207
The Role of Costume in Shakespear's Works
Jeong, Hyeon-Suk ; Kim, Jin-Gu ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 209~216
As was defined by Sarbin, the term "role" has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role, and the change of role brings about the change of costumes, and the change of costumes makes influence on the wearers. The typical cases in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be. effectively exploited for role change are manifested in the plays of Shakespear. Thus, our goal in this article is to analyze the role of costume which appears in the plays of Shakespear. There, the disguise in costume brings about the change of action of the characters on the stage, the drama reveals the role of costume obviously. The roles of costume appeared most frequently are the disguise role and the situation role. The disguise role hides one's status, thereby makes possible acting other's position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of sex, age, occupation, status, atmosphere. The situation role of costume can be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the person on the stage. The suitable wearing of costume has functions of performing roles effectively.
The Research for Amarican Sportswear - Focusing on Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan -
Jung, Sung-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 217~231
The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.
패션 변천요인에 관한 분석연구 - 유희경, Payne, B의 복식사를 중심으로 -
Im, Suk-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 233~251
A study on Brand Image of Korea Women's Apparel Market with Multidimensional Scaling
Hwang, Seon-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 15, 1990, Pages 253~265
This article was written with two purposes in mind. The first purpose was to introduce clothing and textile community who may not be familiar with Multidimensional Scaling(MDS) with usefulness of the new technique in the area of fashion merchandising. The second purpose was to present the results of an empirical study on brand image utilizing MDS and its related technique as the main analysis tools. The main objective of the empirical study was to gain a better understanding of consumer's brand image by relating differences in perception and attributes of clothing in women's ready-to wear market. For this empirical study, the ten brands and the fifteen attributes of clothing were chosen. The questionnaire consisting of questions asking about the similarity and attributes of clothing between selected brands was administrated to 185 career women during summer in 1989. Data were analyzed cluster analysis, and KYST and PROFIT in MDS program. The results were as follows: 1. The similarities data for the ten selected brand by using KYST program of MDS drawed the perceptual map. The results of this perceptual map showed that the selected brand were grouped into three clusters. 2. In order to get a somewhat objective view of which attributes consumers are attributing to each brand, PROFIT program was used. As a result, it was revealed that assortment depth / width, price, youth-oriented style, possibility of various social activity were significant attributes in consumer's brand choice rather than physical attributes of clothing such as quality or durability. This may imply that consumer orientation in rapidly changing environments of women's apparel market was its basic idea, and the focus of all fashion merchandising activities was put on need's and the response of consumer group who are the object of the target. Implicating for future research as well as for strategy of brand positioning were also suggested.