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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 19 - Nov 1992
Volume 5, Issue 19 - Nov 1992
Volume 18 - May 1992
Volume 5, Issue 18 - May 1992
Selecting the target year
조선전기 출토복식연구 -임난이전 시기를 중심으로-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 11~28
Adapting Korean Traditional Beauty to Contemporary Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 29~40
The aesthetic of traditional Korean costume has been used as one of the design themes in the field of Korean contemporary fashion design for western style clothing. Using the Korean aesthetic comes from the idea that such ethnic beauty could gain an international reputation. The beauty of the Korean costume is rooted in the particular aesthetic consciousness of the Korean people : the aesthetics of nature, personality, the evil's eye. and tradition. From an artistic viewpoint, the formative elements are analyzed into the following categories: form including line and shape, color, pattern, materials and ornaments. The aesthetic elements of the costume are transformed into present fashion design through the formative elements of the fashion ; form including line, color, pattern, materials and ornamentation. To express Korean atmosphere, adapting traditional elements such as, needle cases, hinges of furnitures, closing function of big gate are active, As a conclusion, the actual fashion design of adapting Korean beauty are so confined to the original form of Korean Dress that the results of design are tend towards ethnocentric atmosphere. Therefore, to understand and express traditional Korean beauty in contemporary fashion design, one has to keep in mind the aesthetic of the traditional Korean costume. Then one must develop and pursue one's own methods of adapting Korean beauty. The sophistication and refinement of fashion design could be accomplished only through the deep appreciation of the Korean culture. The second, the sense of International perspective is needed to be understanded and obtaining public sympathy from an international society. The third, Critics and scholars are the most concerned with promoting Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion design will only mature with the support of scholars and the theoretical understanding they bring with them. The last, public support including government level is needed to enhence the standand of Korea fashion today.
한.일 여성복의 양장화에 관한 비교연구
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 41~51
위진시대 관모 유형에 대한 사회적 의의
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 53~63
음회태자묘 예빈도중 -우리나라 사신 복식-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 65~73
Teaching about Automation in the Clothing Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 75~81
The clothing industry is going through very rapid and innovative automation in almost all processes from the initial design of clothing to the dispatch of the products to the retailer. Educational bodies in teaching clothing and textile techniques should offer courses that enable students to grasp the concepts and potential of automation so that they can confidently cope with further development when they enter the real world of the clothing and textile industry. The article suggests how and what to teach about automation and, gives an overview of the current state of automation in the field of clothing and textiles. What to Teach about Automation.
What is the automation of the clothing industry\ulcorner
The benefits of, and obstacles to automation in the clothing industry.
How to automate the manufacturing process.
Recent developments in automation machinery.
How to Teach about Automation.
Install available machinery at the educational institute and train the students.
Practical 'in the field' work experience.
Visite to textile machinery exhibitions and industrial sites.
Using audio-visual methods.
Participation in research projects to develop automatic systems.
A Study on the Ritual Dress of Korean new Religions
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 83~103
This thesis researched the ritual dress of Korean new religions such as Suungyo, Mirubulgyo, Taejonggyo and WonBuddhism, According to kind, color, cloth and shape this thesis analyzed the ritual dress of them on the basis of its literatures. I. The results of the ritual dress of them through its literatures are as follows: 1. In case of Suungyo, there are Songwansonbok, Togwandobok, Pulmogwan, Ch'onui, Chap'ae , Yukhwangang, Pobdae, Hakp'yo and Kyonjang in its kind. In its color there are Huk, Cha, Hoe, Chahwang, Hong, Paek, Hwang, ROk, and Nam. Chemical fiber with one layer is used in its cloth. Its shape is made by a comprise between the feature of Korean dress, chuui and that of the existing dress of Confucianim, Buddhism and Taoism. 2. In case of Mirukbulgyo, Inhwag-wan, Chongbok, P'oui, Tae, Moson, Yomju and tanju are systematized in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk, ch'ong,Chok, Ok and Rok, Kongdan and chemical fiber with one layer are used in its cloth. Its shape has a symbolic form of Yu'Pul and son based upon Korean dress, Chuui. In its symbol Inhwagwan symbolized Confucianism and Chongbok Taoism and P'oui Buddhism. 3. In case of Taejonggyo, there are Chusabok, Sjhobok, Yewonbok, Chusamo, Yewonmo, Tae and Hwa in its kind. In its color there are Paek(main one), Nam, Huk, Chaju, Chok, Hwang and Hoe. Kongdan with both sides is elaborately used in its cloth. Its shape thken from Korean dress means the succession of the national spirit of the white-clad folk. 4. In case of won Buddhism, there are kybok and Pobrak in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk and Hoe---especially, both Hwangt'o and Hwang are used in Pobrak, Anyone can use cloth at his will. In its shape Kyoblk for man is Yangbok and Kyobok for woman is Tongch'ima and Chogori, a style of Korean dress. Pobrak is a form Tanryong worm with Rakja.
A Study on the Korean Costume Pattern Design Using CAD System(I) -With Concentration on the Girl's Color-Strip Blouse & Skirt-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 105~125
The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.
배자의 양식변천에 관한 고찰
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 127~140
A Study on the Dancing Costumes for the Buddhist Ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 141~155
The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.
조선시대 감로탱화에 표현된 복식 연구
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 157~173
Etude sur le v tement dans le Proche-Orient
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 175~194
Le Proche-Orient est le pays de la Bible, Le peuple He breu ancien, appartenant la race des S mits s mi-nomades, est venu avec Abraham, de m sopotamie en Palestine, terre de Canaan. Nous avons consid r les v tements du peuple des anciens H breux en nous basant sur la Bible et en observant des peintures murales et des bas-reliefs des divers payes de l'ancienne poque, Pour comprendre l' volution des v tements des gens de la pr sente r gion palestinienne, nous avons tudi les v tements traditionnels de la race b douine qui m nent jusqu' maintenant une vie nomade dans le m nent jusqu' maintenant une vie nomade dans le d sert, parce que nous n'avons pas pu connaitre le processus d' volution des v tements apr s l'ancienne poque la suite d' v nements historiques compliques. En conclusion, nous pouvons nous r sumer comme suit: 1) Nous pensons que la kimlah, costume important du peuple h breu ancien est devenu abajeh, manteau des B douins, puisque ces v tements servent prot ger le corps lors des changments de temps, et la nuit on les utilise comme couverture et comme sac pour y mettre des objets, et comme tente lors su travail. en un mot, les fonctions de la Simlah et celles de l'abajeh sont les memes l' poque ancienne et maintenant. 2) Nous pensons que la forme et l'utilisation de la Kethoneth ayant une forme de tunique et de la thob des B douins sont presque semblable. La kethoneth et la thob sont la tuniqu importante que portent jusqu' maintenant tous les peuples du Proche-Orient. 3) Comme on le voit dans la Bible, les femmes du peuple h breu et celles des B douins utilisent le voile pour couvrir la e te, et se servent d'accessoires pour d corer leur corps. A l'avenir, les vVtements des Palestiniens, dans une recherche pous approfondie, feront l'objet de a 2 me partie de l' tude des costumes du Proche-Orient.
A study on palestinian women traditional clothes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 195~207
palestein had been a part of Islamic culture before Israel was established after World War II and their daily lives had been totally affected by the Korean, Consequently, the idea of clothing, types of women clothes and it's characteristics reflected in the Koran have been studied and the results are as follows: First, the idea of clothing reflected in the Koran emphasizes the equality of the sexed and treats women as men's equal partner. Second, in the Koran there is almost no reference on men's clothes, but it only recommends women to wear veil to cover their faces and bodies when they go out. The Koran argues that it is not to restrict women but to protect them. Third, due to it's geographical location, Palestinian clothes had been affected by it's neighboring areas, and the gumbaz-a kind of coat - is one of the examples of Turkish origin. In the beginning the gumbaz had been worn by upper class Palestinian women and subsquently by urban Nazareth women. They used to slip on gumbaz on their heads and shoulders. Fourth, In Palestein they wore jacket over coat or dress. The emboridered jacket from Bethlehem was mostly worn their wedding dress. Fifth, the headdress and face-veil in Palestein are the most unique ones and married women decorated headdress and face-veil with gold or silver coins which they received as wedding presents, and wrapped all their coin decorations in black cloth when husbands are dead. Bedouins decorated not only with coins but also with shells, buttons, stones and beads to articulate their chastity, social status, aestheticism, religion and magic.
A Study on form of 'collar' in the China and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume -Focusing on 13th Century's-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 19, 1992, Pages 209~240
The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.