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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
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Volume & Issues
Volume 21 - Nov 1993
Volume 20 - May 1993
Volume 5, Issue 20 - May 1993
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A Study on the Architectural Construction of Balenciaga's works
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 5~18
The purpose of this study is to identify the architectural construction of Balenciaga's works. He was perfectionist in tailoring which was based on architectural thought, and couturier who could design, cut, sew and fit a whole gar-ment. Balenciaga has never followed any fashion trend but his own. He designed from within himself, according to his own sensitivity to fashion. Like Chanel, he mad clothes in which women can be comfortable, move in, and get on and off with a minimum of effort. He ap-plied radical shapes to flattering ends, for his clothes echoed movements and gestures, never determined them. He achieved the perfect harmony between the body and the garment, freeing the spirit of the woman within. Reflec-tion his respect for women, Balenciaga never contorted or restriced their bodies. He did not depend on hoops and petticoats to hold out the skirts of his evening dresses but on well-balanced, architectural construction. Therefore in order to identify the architec-tural consturuction, this study hypothesizes (1) the effect of mass and volume, (2) the ef-fect of weight and support, (3) the effect of complexity and simplicity, (4) the effect of line and rhythm etc. The architectural beauty of form in Balenciaga's works are especially based on simplicity and support.
A DEVELOPMENT OF WOOL FABRICS FOR NAME KOREAN Wool Fabrics From Ancient To Koryo
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 19~30
There are record that ancient Korean WOOl fabrics male from sheep, camel, rabbit. bear, horse. calile, raccoon dog, fox and so on. Wool fiber fabriher were also reported Kye, Gal, China, Tap Dung, Kuyu anul ram. These wool fabrics wre named amongling to their fineness and weaving method in the fabric. Technology of wool fabric weaving was developed and from Sam Kuk dynasties to to Koryo Dynasty wool fabrics were reported to weave and trade to China, Japan and Arabia. These fabrics were mainly used as clothes, rugs or blankets. In Koryo Dynasty, especially Kye Kurn was used for trading goods to China. There is another record that two thousand sheep, camels offord Koryo by Yo and Kum Dynasty. In this study, the characteristics of Korean wool fabrics will be disscussed from the literature survey of the relevant references.
중국복식에서 쌍에 관한 연구 (한족왕조 복식을 중심으로)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 31~47
A Study on the Current Shroud(I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 49~59
Actual conditions of current shroud are as follows. 1. The kinds of shroud in formal funeral cer-emonies were more variable than infor-mal ceremonies. 2. The cloths of the shround were all Myongchu or all Sambe inside and outside or the inside was Sambe and the outside was Myongchu. The color was light color center upon the white color and black Kongtan was used mostly in Myokmok. 3. Terms of the shroud were different in each region. 4. The kinds of recommended men's shroud were Ch ksam, Ch kori, Naeko, Ko, Torumaki, Topo, Topotae, Mal, Myokmok, Aksu, Ch'im, Ch' nkum, Chiyok, Ryomp'o, Soryomkum, Haengch n, Onang, Tae, Taennim, Pokk n, Kwatu, tec. And the kinds of recommended women's shroud were Ch ksam, Ch kori, Soksokkos, Ko, Tansokkos, Naesang, Oesang, Turumaki, Wonsam, Wonsamtae, Mal, Myokmok, Aksu, Ch'im, Ch' nkum, Chiyok, Ryomp'o, Onang, Soryomkum, Kwatu, etc.
A Study on shape and special guality of Korea Silk Fabrics of the first half year of 20 Century -in therms of the satin fabrics and gauze and leno fabrics-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 61~74
고려시대 운주시 석불에 나타난 복식에 관한 연구
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 75~86
Morphological Analysis of Fibers of the Seip Textiles through the Microscopic Examination
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 87~99
The fiber morphologies of the textiles from the burials of the Seip group of Ohio Hopewell (ca. 100 B.C. to A.D. 500)mounds were examined using light and scanning electron microscopy. A theoretical model was proposed which delineates the rate of morphological change in fibers through time and the cultural activities which occur during the life of a textile element. The Seip textiles were categorized according to their visual and structural characteristics. The microscopic examination of the Seip textiles yielded the evidence of animal hair fibers and bast fibers. The animal hair fibers of the seip textiles were identified as the hair of rabbit or hare. The bast fibers of the Seip textiles exhibited variation in morphological features such as the degree of bundle separation and the presence of transverse striations, fibrillations, or trans-verse cracks.
A Study on the Eroticism Appearing in the Fashion Advertising of Post-Modernism
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 101~112
In representing eroticism in fashion advertising the sentiments of the Post-Modernism thinking of only impulse and pleasure as practical and affirming a human life may he divided into the follwing expression First1 y, Sumbolic Expression The sentiments of Post-Modernism associ ates, the direction sexual intercourse by means of the state and action of wearing the costume or represents indirect symbols with the symbolic expression of an object or phenomenon Secondly, Masochistic, Sadistic Expression. The sentiments of the Post-Modernism in expressing eroticism give people masochistic or sadistic feelings or expressions by means of protographic technigues or the state or background of wearing the model's costume. Thirdly, Homosexual Expression. The sentiments of the Post-Modernism is appropriate to expressing an androgynous and unisex look to people as a role of meeting potential instincts. Fourthy, Feministic Expression. The sentiments of me Post-Modernism also express a subjective woman and represent an extension of her ego through the existence of the woman herself by means of the body-conscious look. Fifthly, Narcissistic Expression. The de-genre such as the introduction high technology and de-campus rnakes consumers have theirself-identity.
A Study on the Textile Design in Contem- porary Fashion -through the printing of the 1920s paintings-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 113~128
The textile designs expressed in contempor-ary fashion are studied in this paper. The dec-orative paintings have been encouraged to be-ing adapted in textile designs for apparel as a motif of the surface design to promote the ar-tistic atmosphere in it. Adopting paintings in textile design through the method of printing is valid to improve the fashion in several reasons as follow : First the printed paintings on the fabrics could be possible to contribute individuality and creativity to the fashion im-proving the quality of textile design and the taste of the consumer as well, Second the limitted types of the clothing construction for preparing the proper space to reveal a paintings is needed on the costume The simple clothing types of loose from the body or fitted to the body are easy to adopt and to recreat the paintings on the apparel. Third the paintings which have been favored in use for the textile design are mostly derived from the abstract arts rather than re-alistic paintings for its decorative traits. Fourth a proposal to adapt the other genre of the art could be encouraged to enrich the field of textile and fashion design. Fifth aquisition of the individuality and the creativity in fashion design to differenciate in international market could be obtained through the adaption of Korean paintings which is ap-preciated with Korean sentiment and mind. This would be one of the essential and advis-able ways for designers to solve the problems which have been consistently pusuing in the area of Korean industrial design to find the Korean design model.
우리나라 조우삽관과 의상적배경
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 129~142
We priority given to Jowoo-Kwan this study examined the ideologic backgrounds which had influences on Jowwo-Kwan throughout the Birds Worship Thought and the Yin-Yang and Five-Elements Thought. Jowoo-Kwan with bird-feathers to Jeol-Poong namely the orgin of the Korean Kwan-Mo existed as a northern cultural elements until the Three States. The customs of Joo-Kwan were greatly related to the hunting life of a horse-riding people and they were dominated the Birds Worship Ideology originated from the primitive religion of a northern people namely Shamanism. In the early days Jowoo-Kwan with natural bird-feathers was decorated with golden bird-feathers with the development of a so-ciety and it changed realistic and crative in the form. The results that Jowoo-Kwan is applied to the Yin-Yang and Five-Elements Thought as follows. The Higher front part represents Yang and on the other hand the lower back part does Yin. Thus Jo-woo-kwan consists of a ideologic Yin-Yang. By means of principles of the Five Elements Birds are included in four animals with the mean of God and especially we can confirm it from a red bird. Expresions of Jowoo-Kwan shows the influences of the Five Elements thought.
위구르 왕국의 복식에 관한 연구
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 143~156
한국 복식미에 표현된 에로티즘에 관한 연구
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 157~176
A Study on the Practical Korea Costume for men
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 177~192
The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.
Primitivism Expressed in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 193~206
Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.
A Study on the Kenzo Takada's Works
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 207~218
The desire of our contempories who wish to recover humanities fading away and get back recover humanities fading away and get back to the nature is emerging as a main theme of the fashion today the decade of facing 21st century. The prevalence of naturalness-ecology ru-ral peasant look-and ethnic look shows the tendency mentioned above. Kenzo Takada' works which exhibit this naturalness and ethnic look were picked and investigated. The objective of this research is to study the beauty of form and internal and investi-gate in what form the naturaless and Ethnic look in Kenzo's work. The result were as followings : <1> Draped form are mainly used as form and they are made neglecting the body line by straight-cut and provide the wearer ease and freedom of movements <2> As for the color fantastic original colors (red, blue, etc) and natural colors are used. And Strong color contrast is seen. In ethnic look original colors(red, blue, etc.) natural colors and ethnic colors are used. <3> As for the fabric Cotton neat skilk and wool etc are used mainly and use of such natural fibers represents the return to the natural well. <4> As for ornament natural things-straw hat flower feather pebble, shell-are used and exhibit natural feelings strongly. For the ethnic look ornaments representing each country's ethnic atmos-phere by hat scarf and neckcloth made of natural fibers. <5> As for naturalness Flower deer butter-fly leopard and plant etc, are used as motif. As for ethnic look flower geometric motif are used.
A Study on the Brand Loyalty Ready to Wear of Females
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 219~226
The main purpose of this study is to inves-tigate brand loyalty on ready-to-wear of fe-male. The subjects were two hundred ninty females in Taegu. Using SPSS package in or-der to identify relations of clothing selection behavior and information source uses multivariate analysis of variance(MANPVA) univariate analysis of variance(ANOVA) were executed. Scheffe est a kind of post-hoc multiple comparisons methods was adapted. conclusions reached in this study are as follows: 1. Clothing purchase pattern of consumers classified brand loyal group and brand dis-loyal group. The number of people in the brand loyal group was fifty more than that of the brand disloyal group. 2. In relation of brand loyalty and clothing selection behavior brand loyal group had high scores on individuality and exhibition of clothing selection behavior. Brand dis-loyal group had high scors on economy practicality courtesy facility. 3. In difference of information uses on brand loyalty brand loyal group had high scores on printed-information source, broadcast-ing-information source broadcast-ing-information sources. Among them brand loyal group particularly used printed-infor-mation source more than brocasting infor-mation source. On the contray brand dis-loyal group have high scores on human-in-formation source.
인도네시아의 바틱(Batik)의 문화적 의미 -지역차를 중심으로-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 21, 1993, Pages 227~239