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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 23 - Nov 1994
Volume 22 - May 1994
Selecting the target year
불서속에 표현된 복식의 구조와 형태연구-고려시대를 중심으로
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 5~23
This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.
A Study of the Architectural Characteristics Depicted on Andre Courrs Fashion Design
Kyoung-Hee Cho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 25~43
의복의 친숙성과 의복인상평가의 변화
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 45~52
The aim of this study was to inspect the change of the evaluation scores of the clothing according to the numbers of simple exposure. Two cuts of slides representing a 29-years old female figure clothed either in formal suits or in casual were shown to 41 college female students majoring in clothing and textiles. Questionnaire consisted of 9-point bipolar semantic differentials was given out at 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 times of slide exposure. Results were : 1. The evaluation score was the highest after 3 times of exposure . At after 5 times of exposures the score decreased abruptly and increased slightly thereafter. 2. Th evaluation score of the formal suit was higher at the first exposure , but the casual acquired higher score after 3 times of exposure and maintained the superiority thereon. 3. The final score of evaluation of clothing was most similar with the score of after-7-times of exposure, but was almost similar with that of after -5-times of exposure.
Influence on Modern Costumes of Dunhuang Feitian costumes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 53~65
The images signifying flight in modern costumes are not made of one characteristic but the combination of complex meanings. Among the distinctive features some of them are as follows. First, the flying styles found in the costumes showed the birds as agents which sent human spirit to the celestial body. By simplifying the images of the wings connecting the present age with the heavenly body, the transforming emotions towards rhythm, direction, and organic curves transcending the real objectively constitutes a new space for expression. Second, colors appeal directly to man's emotions and incites emotional responses. The flying was shown in lines and colors. By using horizontal , vertical, oblique, and spiral lines and contrasted and paralleled colors, man's desire to fly dwells in newly colored space by reflecting speculative emotion through uniting surface. Third, the flying except for the costumes can be found in the advertisement through model's pose and camera technique, the flying itself is described through model's pose, the materials of the costumes, details, and sustaining stuffs. This symbolizes man's wish towards the unknown world vividly and dynamically. As discussed above the spirit of flying was, when expressed distinctively , in accordance with the varying cultural traits and transitions. The shape made by the vitality of symbolizing flying birds and animals along with the flying in the natural aspects such as wind and cloud were reappeared, simplified and symbolized , in modern costumes as consituting a new modeling space.
A Study of Ku -based on Chosun dynasty -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 67~77
The purpose of this study is to investigate the origin of ku and changes of styles from ancient times to recent times. It will contribute to recent times . It will contribute the correct understanding of the historical change of clothing materials. For this study historical comparative method were utilized using documentary records and relic of ku. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were the first clothes that human beings put on in order to protect human body against the cold. Ku was widely worn by many people in Asia dynasty. ku was an out fit for protection against the cold and it was made of animal fur. 2. The ancient times, the northern part of korean peninsular and Manchus were the mainfield of action of korean people. At this time, koreans preferred the ho-bok that the nomadic tribe used put on. But the territiory of unified Silla was limited to the southern part of korean peninsular, and it be supposed that ku was preferred only in a certain local community and social class. In Chosun dynasty , ku was also adopted as garment for protection against cold. During Sung-Zong and Chung -Zong era it was so popularized that both men and women in noble class preferred it. But in latter part of Chosun dynasty government worned the nation against extravagance in living, ku lots its popurality and it was modified into another garments such as gotzaugori, baeza and magoza.
A Survey of korean Costume Cultural Assets in Overseas -Focusing on New York Area Museum
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 79~97
The purpose of this study is to survey of Korean costume cultural assets in overseas museum collections. Cultural Assets represent the cultural heritage. Also costume is one of cultural assets. In 1980's the Korean government and scholars surveyed Korean cultural assets. One of their finding was that Korean objects exists some countries. Unesco delared that cultural assets illegally taken a way to foreign countries should be returned to their nations. However, few objects had been returned to korea. Today museum professional designing their exhibited and collections try to both enlighten experts and instruct and please amateur enthusiasts. Exhibitions are one of the most effective means of stimulating interest in cultural objects and ideas : they reflect prevailing cultural , intellectural and political trends. The 1893 Chicageo Exposition was the first international exhibition in which Korea has ever taken part. Overseas museum held many Asian exhibitions however Korean exhibitions have been held much less frequently than those of most other Asian countries. (China, and Japan). Some of Korean art Collection have historical and artistic valuable , most overseas museum' collection are of low value and non-informative . Several museums in United States that have Korean costume : some of these museums have highly valuable historical and contextural objects. It is my hope that the information in this paper will be of use for those interested in learning more about Korean culture.
A Study on the Pants Pattern For the Fatty Body -The Subject of Elementary Schoolboys
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 99~110
The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable for their physical characteristics for the fatty body of Korean elementary school boys who re more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index. The procedures of the study were as follows : We have surveyed the rate of fatty children who were more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index on 2, 185's and elementary school children. The result of research showed the rate of fatty boys in 9-11 years-old were the highest one. Therefore, body measurement and statistical analysis. 203's boys between the ages of 9-11 and over 1.5Rhrer's Index were measured on 25 items. Descriptives, correlation and factor analysis were computed. Fatty boys higher than standard boys, and bigger than grith and width items. 4 type of conventional pants pattern were collected . The most accepted conventional pants pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based on the most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing test. After new pattern drafting , the sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing it with the conventional pattern. The result of sensory evaluation , it was found that the new pattern was more suitable then the conventional pattern.
현대 패션에 나타난 Eroticism 에 관한 연구-초현실주의와 팝 아트의 Eroticism을 중심으로
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 111~130
The purpose of this study was to illuminate eroticism represented din modern fashion. Art based on sex is very important like all of the other cultural values. But we feel that erotic art, neglected, suppressed , and persecuted for centuries, has an important contribution to make to the understanding of art, the social history of mankind, and human happiness and progress. It is our deep personal conviction that erotic art serves important social and therapeutic functions. Erotic art expresses the demand for sexual freedom-a freedom vital to individual happiness and mental well-being, And sexual freedom, in turn, cannot exist without a high degree of political and economic freedom as well. In that sense , erotic art came a truly revolutionaly message ; it demands no less than extension of freedom , not only in the sexual are, but in every sphere of social life. What is eroticism \ulcorner Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction . Eroticism is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth, religion , customes and art. It also has a close relationship with psychological activities of our life. Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization. Eroticism is related to different kinds of art, which express internal spirit of human especially Surrealism. Surrealism is above all a movement of the conquest and deepening of the unconscious. The exploitation of Freud's discoveries opended a new, practically unlimited path for artistic studies to Surrealism . Especially all theory of mental psychoanalysis a affected artists greatly in western art, Freud was appraised highly on his achievements by art critics in art history on his achievements by art critics in art history. As far as erotic subject matter was concerned, Surrealism provided a means of presentig it. Pop Art is not actually a movement , born at a specific time and place, nor is it an easy concept to define. The term first appeared in Great Britain during the fifties, when it referred, particularly in the decorative arts, to an inclination to go back and imitate the stereotyped images of the mass media : film, advertising , cartoons, and other popular consumer products. The eroticism expressed in Pop Art calls the modern's attentions to their devastated minds, taking advantage of the commercialized sex. Fashion has developed constantly reflecting the spiritual aspiration and social and cultural phenomona of man , and artistic steam. Eroticism in fashion is the style which expresses the internal meanings of sexuality through the texture, color, pattern , silhouette etc.
A Research Study on the Actual Conditions of Propensity to Consume and Enterprises of the Knitwears.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 131~150
Knitwears are originated earlier than textiles in human beings life. And then human beings life. And then human beings have been continuously developing as life patterns of human beings are becoming various and society is rapidly changing. Recently , changing life styles of the consumer emphasize the importance of the high quality , individuality , variety , and activity of knitwears. In this study , university women and housewives livings in Seoul have been surveyed in the cause of analyzing of the consumer's actual conditions. And eight brands of th specialized knit enterprises also have been surveyed, though it is imperfect . The purpose of this study lies in giving a help to the rational clothing habits of consumer and presenting some courses for aiming of korean knit industry. I made use of percentage and
-test for the analysis of the data and analyzed the contents of the question papers.
A Study on the Kwanmo of Kokuryo
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 151~168
The purpose of this study is to examine all kinds of Kwanmo of Kokuryo. The results are as follows . There are nine kinds of Kwanmo in Kokuryo : Kun(건), Chaik ( 책), Jeolpoong(절풍), Sogol (소골), Jowookwan (조익관), Rakwan (라관), Kagkwan(각관), Rip(립) and Jumdongkwan (금동관), Kun(건) is a piece of cloth which covers hair. There are two types of kun(건) : Hari band type and entire head cover type. Chaik(책) was originated in China , but people of Kokuryo didn't wore chinese Chaik (책) as it was. They created unique shape of their own. Jeolpoong (절풍) is the cone-shaped knwanmo which is chiefly made of leather. In the early period it was worn by the nobility , but gradually trickcled down common people's Kwanmo. Sogol(소골) is the cone -shaped Kwanmo which is made of silk and decorated with gold and silver. Only the nobility wore it, Jowookwan(조익관) is the knwanmo decorated with natural bird feather or metallic feather. Mainly it was worn by the nobility in hunting , Besides, worriors, diplomats, dancers and musicians wore it. Rakwan (나관) was worn by the highest class. There were three kinds of Rakwan (나관) : Baekrakwan(백나관). Cheongrakwan (청나관) and Birakwan (비나관). The king of Kokuryo wore BAekrakwan (백나관). It was simlar ini shape to chines Mookwan (무관). Kagkwan (각관) was the kwanmo unique to Kokuryo. It was used by the nobility . Rip (립)was originated on purpose to protect people form the sunshine or rain. There were two kinds of Rip(립) ; Bangrip (방립) and Pyungyangja(평량자). The former was used by the nobility, the lattr was used by common people in hunting . The Kwanmo which was decorated with gold and silver developed into Kumdongkwan(금동관). The Kwanmo which is similar to Kumkwan (금관) of Baekje and Shilla has been shown in Kaimachong (가마총) 무 dJumdongkwan(금동관) was excavated in the ancient tombs of Kokuryo.
A Study on the Brand Situations of Neck-tie-industry and Consumer Purchasing Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 169~181
The Purpose of this study is to help the neck-tie business enterprise establish the reasonable marketing strategy meeting consumer' needs by grasping their characteristic of purchasing neck-ties and their attitudes toward trademarks. The findings of this study are as follows : 1. It was shown that the neck-tie enterprise tended to appeal to megazines, catalogues , etc as promotional politics, while the tips obtained by consumers would come from the showcase at the purchasing place. and the consumer showed a positive response to the salesperson's advice. For this result, it is required to place further emphasis on the marketing policy such as the display of products at the store or the education of sales persons. 2. It was shown that the consumer tended to use the department store as the purchasing place remarkably, and so it could be found that the use of the department store is becoming generalized to the consumer. But is was shown that the consumer sensitive to prices tended to make use of the marketplace as the purchasing place, so the practical marketing strategy should be established in relation to this trend. 3. The important elements excreting an influence on the consumer's purchasing the neck-tie were shown to be in orders of design > color> harmony > with suit > price > quality, and the product differentiation policy used by the business enterprise to appeal to the consumer was shown to be in orders of design >color > quality > material > price. Accordingly , it was consistent with the consumer's criterion for choice to an extent. 4. It was shown that the selling price for the neck-tie brand actually was higher for imported or technically cooperated brands than for the home-made brand. Thus, the consumer's perception of the price for the neck-tie was consistent with in this regard, consumers did not feel some difference in quality between the home -made neck-tie brand and the imported or technically cooperated neck-tie brand . Therefore, it is important to produce the product capable of satisfying the consumer's need by manufacturing the own brand on basis of impored technology.
Effect of Involvement on Evaluative Criteria of Clothing Items
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 183~196
The purpose of this study is , by analyze the relationship among clothing involvement which is major expanatory variable in the stage of product purchase and consumption, evaluation criteria of housewives, to help to give understanding the concept of involvement and to supply the fundamental data for constructing marketing stratege. The subject of this study was a 510 housewives and the items of study were three such as suit , one piece dress, blouse, skirt , and blue jean, T-shirt. For analyzing data frequency analysis, percent , mean , standard deviation , factor analysis. F-test, Duncan -test , MANOVA, t-test , and Pearson's product -moment correlation coefficient were used. The results are as follows. 1. Clothing involvement was divided into 4 dimensions such as fashion, pleasure, symbolism, and perceived risk. Evaluative criteria had 5 dimensions such as harmony , dignity , practicality , price, and fashion. 2. There was significant difference in the occupaton of working housewives and the expenditure of money on clothing concerning clothing involvement. 3. There was significant difference in items concerning the degrees of importance of each evaluation factor. Harmony was the first important dimension and practicality was the second by housewives. The degree of clothing involvement has a significant positive correlation with the factors of evaluation on each item. Each dimension of clothing involvement had a significant positive correlation with the factors of evaluation.
A Study on Aesthetic Category of Dress -Selected period of the Renaissance and the Baroque
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 197~209
The purpose of this study is to present a way to analyze and review the subjective view of the aesthetic for dress based on the framework of the aesthetic categories suggested by aesthetics. In order to define objectivism and subjectivism of the aesthetic of dress, theoretical studies on the aesthetic categories of dress were precded. And empirical studies on the aethetic categories of dress for selected period, the Renaissance (16th century) and the Baroque(17 th century). The results were follows : The objectivism of the aesthetic is the point of that an object causes human to feel and judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means judge aesthetically, that is that of dress means formal characteristic of dress and pervasive ideology expressed in dress. the subjectivism of the aesthetic is the point that the aesthetic is ruted in human, that is that of dress has been studied in relation to the image, the aesthetic consciousness m, or the aesthetic categories of dress. Especially, the aesthetic category is one of the universal and valid methods for the analysis of subjectivism of the aesthetic for dress. This study includes beauty, grace, elegance , the sublime, the tragic , the comic, aptness, ugliness as aesthetic categories of dress . Beauty is perfection and rule. Grace pleases human by sense. Elegance comes from the harmony of sense and spirit. the sublime comes into existence that human feels pleasure as well as displeasure simultaneously when human is overehelmed by objects. The tragic is the sense of the present of something valuable even if there is suffering. The comic is the sense of the presence of something amusing even if there is displeasure caused by contradiction. Apteness means utility in terms of the objectivism and , formality in terms of the subejctivism. Ugliness is opposite to beauty. As the result of emperical studies, the aesthetic categories of the Renaissance dress showed harmonious, balanced, and symmetrical beauty, and the magnificent, and enlarged sublime. In addition to these , grace and elegance were also found to some extent. Aesthetic categories of the Baroque dress show feminie, soft, cheerful, and fantastic grace, asymmetric , disarmonious, and extraordinary uglinesss, and the magnificient , grave, and dignified sublime.
A Study on the Costume of The Koryo Dynasty(2) -See through by human being, on the written Budist scripture(2)-2
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 211~223
It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.
복식산업발전을 위한 패션 전문 교육에 관한 연구
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 23, 1994, Pages 225~248
The purpose of this study is to find an effective curriculum of the future in the fashion design and the clothing construction area by comparing the curricula of the fashion -related departments in domestic college. The research finding are as follows : 1. Clear objectives of fashion education need to be defined based upon the characteristics of the field. 2. Following education methods are suggested for the fashion design area. 1) Basic core courses need to be offered to support the fashion design courses. 2) More design -practice courses need to be included to educate creative designers and the curriculum need to reflect also the needs of the Apparel Industry practioners. 3) Major concentration systems need to be introduced. 4) Intership which is a kind of the Academy and Industry cooperation needs to be introduced. 3. Following education methods are suggested for the clothing construction area. 1) Major concentration systems need to be introduced. 2) Workshops which are similar to the actual production systems of the clothing Apparel Industry, are required. 3) Internship is required. 4) Course required for both the fashion design area and the clothing construction area need to be offered effectively. The suggestion made in the research can be applied with some modifications or adjustments considering the situation of each college. Since each college has different characteristics in terms of the tradition , faculty ,size, facility etc., it is difficult to make a general statement regarding professional fashion education , however, professional fashion education should be reformed in order to achieve individuality of each college.