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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 26 - Nov 1995
Volume 25 - Aug 1995
Volume 24 - May 1995
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고대 한일관계 연구의 기본시각
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 5~13
The Comparative Study of Costume and Ornaments between Shilla and Uighur
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 15~28
This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.
A Study on the ch
chori pattern of Korea in the 16 th and 17 th Centuries
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 29~46
This study is on the classification of Chchori forms in Korea in the 16 th and 17 th Centuries by investigating the patterns an construction of excavated clothong. The characteristic features of the Korean Chchori in the period are as follow. 1. The Chchori shows forms. The diversity is accomplished by varing the components pattern is Chchori, such as collar, sleeve, and bodice. The divertification in Chchori pattern represents an attempt to advance the simple Chchori pattern in the 4 th and 5 th Centuries to the mordern one. 2. Mokpankit (목판깃) has a straight construction line but Kalkit (칼깃), Dangkogit(당코깃) have curved one. This suggests a transformation in the construction line of Chchori. 3. Among Chchori pattern, some Mokpankit and Kalkit Chchori show two kinds in size ; 40-50 cm and 60-70 . However, Dangkokit Chchori has only one size of 40-50cm. Considering the difference in body size between man and woman , Mokpankit Chchori and Kalkit Chchori are jueged to be for man and woman commonly, and Dangkokit Chchori is for woman only. After the period , woman wears only Dangkokit Chchori, whichis thought to come from the sex discrimination. Consequently on the viewpoint of rinsiple of Adaptation to Environments, forementioned facts prove the changes in Korean society in the 16 th and 17 th centuries on the historical basis of costume.
The Costume of the Wejung-chuksa period in hanmal
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 47~58
The Study is to find out the thought of costume of the people who advocated the Wejung-chunksa. Conclusions are described as follows 1. The action to boycott western goods was the early response in the Wejung -chuksa Thought. The reason were in fear of ruin in chosun industry and worry about the westernizing the Korean. 2. The people of the Wejung-chuksa had the conservative character in order to maintain the traditional public order and the costume. They thought that costume have a role to distinguish between man and woman , the rich and the poor and so on. Therefore acceptance the wastern constume style meant that the Korean became a savage. So that they rejected the King's order about the dress-system reformation in 1884, 1895. That pointed that their ultimate purpose was to keep the traditional rule. 3. In appearance the purpose of the short-hair law was good for health. But it meant to destory the traditional order and to symbolize the civilization . Especially the short -hair in the people of Wejung-chuksa meant the destruction of the traditional rule and casting away the courtesy. Therefore they wanted to keep the value of the traditional costume.
A Study on the Costume of Ch'ing Dynasty in "Dream of the Read Chamber"
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 59~82
All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in
Dream of the read Chamber
. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.
The Costume of Kucha
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 83~101
The purpose of this study is to investigate relation between kucha and Korea by comparing costume. The results are as follows. First, During 508th century, wall paintings of Kizil and Kuizilkargha showed traditional costume such as cutting hair , lapel coller and fitting sleeve coat, pants, boots , belts and knife. Kumtura were also in 6 th, but under the influence of China and Hoehol (회골) after 7th. Second, Men and women cutting hair except king, they put on cone shaped hat and Kun (건), clothing were made of felt and kun(면). Third, it was influenced by Iran that cutting hair in Silla (신라) and Kucha. In Silla , round neckline and V neckline were existed except lapel collar. Jeweled knife of Silla and Kuncha , pattern of Kumdonglee(금동복) showed cultural exchange of centural Asia and Korea along the Silk Rood. It is conscious that Silla preferred centural asia of texture and jewels by prohibition of costume.
Ethnic minorities' costumes in and around Silk Road - nationalities of the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 103~120
The Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region to from the most of Eastern turkistan is located at North-wetern part of China, and it is the center to form the famous silk-road historically. In th exinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region there are 47 nationalities. In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress sand ornaments of 4 nationalities (that is Uighur, Kazakh, Kirgiz and Tajik). The results of the present study are as follows : In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is not big difference. Then , in men , the trousers and the shirts of funic type become the basis with the style which is convenient to act. And , to wear vest , or jacket , or chanban, over it makes a little difference . In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outerwear, on the basis of one piece. But , in a small hat, heat wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc. , strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion , and life habit etc. But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So , it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unigue identity of their own culture.
The Expressionism on the Modern costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 121~142
The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.
The Modeling Nature of Op ART Expressed in Contempotary Dresses
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 143~155
Unlike pure art such as painting and sculpture, dressmaking , a field of special plastic art, is characterized by its physical and functional nature. Having an inseparable relation with form, it is a field of art expressiion the human innersense of beauty in correlation with other various fields of art. In this respect, I think it should be necessary for us to study the forms of art from the past in order to study the forms of art from the past in order to study the correlations and mutual influencies between forms of pure art and dressmaking and to understand modern dressmaking from the standpoint of art. In this context, this study is an attempt to analze how the form and characteristics of OP ART , which represents the trends of the 1960's is embodied in modern dresses. The results are as follows : Fist , the expression of OP ART in dresses have visual effects harmonizing with bodily movements and , also, expanded the range and dynamics of expression which resulted from the introduction of visual phenomena in a fresh new sense by not limiting itself to the suggestion of patterns of OP ART. Second, OP ART paintings expressed the mobility and rhythimicity of a body in a limited space in a two-dimensional plane way of expression . When a dress is worn, however, it expands such mobility and rhythmicity in a cubic , three-dimensional way, maximizing the effects of , and boldly expression, OP ART, it can also create a new silhuette and ability of formation by seeking an open expression of OP ART rather than an expression of OP ART it self , due to the infinite possibility and unpredictability by the dynamics of movements and the elements principle of designs. Third , by applying the patterns of OP ART to dresses, we can obtain special visual effects of design, cover up the body's weak points, and create a desired three -dimensional sense by highlighting the beauty of the body's curved lines. Although modern dresses and OP ART are different genres of art, both have something in common in their pusuits. Since there is a infinite possibility in OP ART, there should be continuous attempts to combine dresses and art satisfying the sense of the times, which will lead dressmaking to a higher-dimensional dressmaking plastic art.
A Study on Minimal Expression Techniques Depicted in Modern Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 157~176
The purpose of this treatise is to study external form and internal meaning of minimal expression fashion which appeared as a major stream in modern fashion trends to understand one aspect of modernism in fashion and also to gain insight into internal value of human beings through fashion. The results can be summarized as follows : Firstly , minimalism is a trend in art attempting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means and minimal production process. Secondly, minimal expression in fashion means seeking simplicity an dpurity by using minimum design elements and minimal productive process. Thirdly, external from of minimal expression fashion can be created through application of following minimal expression techniques. 1. Minimal expression techniques in terms of line mean smooth curve flowing along body contours, straight lines of diagonal lines into desciplined silhouette or rendering internal contour lines. 2. Minimum expression techniques in terms of forms mean forms of smooth curves flowing along boyd or forms with simple geometric forms from qualitative aspects, In terms of volume it means quest for essence of pure body itself by revealing body as it is by minimizing the size of dress or its area and herein is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns.3. Minimal expression techniques by colors mean simple colors such as primary colors, colors without clear distinctions or natural colors and in terms of quantity it means quest for one color within one item of dress or combination of each items when getting dressed. 4. Minimal expression techniques in terms of fabrics mean fabrics with simple surfaced. In terms of quantity it means quest for essence of tight fitting thin textiles to human body or using transparent materials to human body thus exposing body contours as it is. 5. Minimal expression techniques in terms of productive process mean minimizing process of tailoring , sewing or ornamenting and seeking for simplicity and purity. 6. Minimal expression techniques in terms of manufacturing process mean selection of technique conveying simple image with disciplined simple image. Fourthly, minimal expression fashion with external expression as mentioned in the above lay body-priority style and its internal meaning can be asummed as quest for essence and purity of human body.
A Study of Clothing Imagery emerging from Shakespeare's Drama I -Focusing on King Lear I
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 177~192
The purpos대 f this research was to figure out clothing imagery underlying Shakepeare's King Lear and transfer it into actual stage costume. Three steps were taken in order to achieve the purpose . The first step exemined theoretical background of the Shakepeare's imagery. The second step reviewed a wide spectum of stage costume used in the last four centuries. The final step was to design and produced actual stage costume focusing on Lear, while considering clothing imagery drawn from the previous steps. King Lear contained rich clothing imagery which could contrast the relationship between material and spirit. In particular, it shed light on the contrast between Lear's divesting and Edgar's wearing and denoted that wearing and divesting processes were closely related to spiritual and status changes. A review of stage costume used for four centuries was prepared in order to understand how clothing imagery was applied in producing stage costume. It was found that their stage costume was reflecting clothing imagery captured from the analysis of king Lear. On the basis of this review, this research presented Lear's stage costume which applied clothing imagery drawn from King Lear. In producing stage costume , actual stage costume used Elizabethan fashion as its basic color and pattern. It also utilized modern clothing production techniques and ornaments acceptable in these days. As Lear was depicted as a character who underwent spiritual and status changes in the process of divesting , his costume was produced in line with this clothing imagery (i.e., divesting). The long journey of reviewing and analyzing King Lear from a stand point of clothing reassured us, on the one hand, the importance of stage costume. On the other hand, it established the groundwork for developing the methodology of fashion design by applying clothing imagery drawn from literature to design and production of stage costume.
무늬의 크기 , 배열, 명도대비에 따른 시각적 효과에 관한 연구 -격자무늬와 물방울무늬를 중심으로-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 193~203
The objective of this research was to study the optical illusion effect and the difference of image of textile pattern design. This research also tried to show the more useful method to make stimulus by computer simulation and to present quantitative data. For the experiment, 3 design variable were selected from design principal book as follows : size, arrangement and value harmony of motive. Size of motive variable was divided into 3 level so by use of check & dot pattern, arrangement of motive variable was manipulated to vias direction for check pattern and value harmony between motive & base color was classified into similar value harmony and contrasting value harmony. Visual stimuli which same model was wearing each design were created by ENVISION program. This photographs were given to evaluating panels, Then panels compared experiment design by slim effect and evaluated for 5-sementic differential scale expressing clothing image. The results were as follows : 1) There were significant difference is slim effect, clothing image as simplicity and boldness according to size of Motive. 2) Arrangement of motive for check pattern had significant effects on slim , clothing images as activity and attractiveness. 3) Case of low value base color and high value dot color has significant high score on slim effect, activity, attractiveness, boldness and youthful image.
A Study on the color Illusion Effect of Clothing Design Line in Goethe Value
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 205~216
In this study, an experiment was made using the function of comfuter simulation as to whether the phenomenon of color optical il-lusion takes place also in clothing on the humanbody, three-dimensional space, through the case study of the color illusing of Goethe Value. One fat woman was slected as the exper-imental subject. She was made to wear the ex-perimental clothing, and then frontal picture was projected of in the experimental clothing, which was sacanned into the computer. For the sake of color illusion effect, construct 5 clothing design line and Yellow(9), Black(0), Red(6), Green(6). The basic design and the experimental de-sign were made one pair, and the pictures totalled 20 pictures. The extimating panel con-sist of 25 panellers and extimate factors of 9-point Scale. All the date from the experiment were analyzed by ANOVA and DUNCAN'S MUL-TIPLE RANGE. As a result, the experimental design all showed a significant optical illusion without C group in comparision with the basic design.
A Study on Clothing Life Style and Clothing Selection Behavior of the New Generation Consumer
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 217~233
The ultimate purpose of this study is to suggest the most effective marketing strategy for the clothing consumer market based on the new generation consumer's clothing selection behavior analysis. In this thesis, it is appempted to make a progress in the new gen-eration consumer's clothing life style types, in clothing purchase behavior analysis among the clothing life style, and also in the marketing strategy for marketers. The subjects selected for the final analysis are 412 the new gerneration women of age 20 thru 34 in seoul and satellite town area. Data were processed the spss package program. As for the analytic method, factor analysis, clustering analysis, XCross-tubulation, F-test with ANOVA, frequency and percentage were applied in the survey. The major findings are as following : life style is classified into four types : The characteristic fashion-directory type(25.7%) ; The reason traditional type(9.0%) ; The sen-sitivity fashion-following type(11.0%) ; The community brand-conscious type(54.3%). 2 Clothing life style types characteristic of the new generation consumer proved that clothing life style types are a significant difference according to the life style, the fashion consciousness and the average monthly spend-ing on clothing. 3. There is an important discrimination according to the clothing life style types in their clothing purchase behavior such as infor-mation usage, clothing choice criterion and brand loyalty. 4. Based on the result of our analysis and the review of literature, the marketing strategy is suggested that characteristic and new design development is efficient way to consumer's purchase need. Therefore apparel industary which pursue an added value must frame marketing strategy on the basis of the target consumer's sensitivity characteristic according to the life style and fashion consciousness.
A Study on the Analysis of the Foot Surface Area Development Figure by Foot Types and Movements
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 24, 1995, Pages 235~251
The purpose of this study is to analyze the charateristics of foot according to foot type and analyze the change of foot shape by movements for the sake of making a comfort-able footwears. On the 6 foot type classified by F.I. and F. P. A, this study analyze the surface areas and circumference in the surface area development figure. There are selected eighteen college girls and four movements. The results are as followes : 1. In the 6 foot types classified by F.I. and F. P. A., the circumferences were differed sig-nificantly. 2. In the 6 foot types classified by F.I. and F. P. A., the surface areas were not differed siginificantly. 3. By movements, circumferences and surfaces were not significantly changed according foot type. 4. By movements, the circumference IV, V were changed variously. 5. By movements, surface area of toes, M.P. joint and ankle were changed variously.