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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 30 - Nov 1996
Volume 29 - Aug 1996
Volume 28 - Feb 1996
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Development of men's Wear in Korea
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 5~22
the present thesis aims to contribute to the further development of the men's wear indus-try in Korea which now confronts the need to adjust itself more actively to the conditions of the coming age of internationalization and free trade. To achieve this this thesis suggests the trade should provide for the changing domestic needs on theone hand and refine its wares as high value-added products in compe-tition with those from the advanced countries in fashion industry on the other, The history of the 'suit' the standard men's attire dates back to 1850 when the 'Ditto suit' was introduced composed of coat waist coat vest and trousers to remain virtually unchanged till the end of the nineteenth cen-tury and the modern men's wear originated in Britain. In Korea since the introduction of western clothes from 1876 custom-made suits had been dominant until 1944 while western clothes earned popular currency between 1945 and 1964 and ready-made suits began to spread with their advantages recognized in terms of practicality convenience and functionality The next phase from 1965 to 1985 witnessed the establishment of a number of ready-made brands although custom-made suits stayed in their height of prosperity until 1975. The turn-ing point for the men's wear industry came in 1975 when high-calss ready-made brands be-gan to turn up with the arrival of large companies in the market matching the change in consumers' life style. The men's wear market went through further diversification and specialization dur-ing the years between 1985. and 1990. Around the year 1990 however the expansion of the business suit industry came to slow down ac-companied by an oversupplied market. The fashion of pragmatism in the 1990s called for the growth of the casual wear department and as consumers' life style became more and more individualized conscious dressing in accord ance with T.P.O established itself as an important branch of culture, Such casual boom is likely to aid in promoting Korea's men's wear indus-try to peer with that of advanced countries. Consumers' fashion sense is now ahead of the trade's as well as being shortcycled highly individualized stylized and diversified. To meet consumers' demands under such circum-stances each company is required to develop its unique soft Know How based on accurate information and strategically specialized plan-ning. The trade should convert its hithero producer-oriented strategy to a new consumer oriented one and actively lead the needs and purchasin g pattern of consumers by providing an efficient and reasonable price policy with optimum supply of merchandise and also by presenting 'our' trend suited to our circum-stances.
A Study on the formativeness of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 23~38
The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.
Causal Relationships of Purchase Intentions and Affective Responses on Apparel Advertising
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 39~52
The purpose. of this study were to identify the types of consumer affective responses to investigate the attitude formation process on the apparel advertising and to identify the differences among related variables according to the sensation seeking and the brand famili-arity. The result of this study were as follows: 1. The consumer affective responses on ap-parel dvertising was composed of six dimensions; Upbeat feeling Negative feeling Warm feeling Sensual feeling Emotional feel-ing and Uninvolved feeling. 2. The related variables to consumer responses on apparel advertising were signifi-cant differences according to the sensation seeking and the brand familiarity. 3. The main causal course on the apparel ad-vertising was the consumer affective responselongrightarrowthe advertising attitudelongrightarrowthe brand evalu-ationlongrightarrowthe brand attitudelongrightarrowthe purchase in-tention. Also there were differences in atti-tude formation process according to the con-sumer affective respeonses.
A Study on the Methodology for Fashion Design through the Source of Inspiration and its Application
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 53~70
The inspiration and its application in fashion design is considered as one of the important factors in boosting the fashion arena. Many inspirations are adapted in fashion de-sign and they make the fashion design unique and characteristic. In this study many fashion designs are analyzed to find what kind of inspirations were adapted and utilized for the fashion design in reality. The nature historic costumes ethcin costumes arts sciences literature music sports were revealed as the sources of fashion inspiration.l The concerns on the environments movies and dramas could provide inspirations in fashion as well. Several contents or steps were studied to provide the one of the example of appli-cations as follows: 1. The works of Marc Chagall were analized to figure out and several plastic characteristics from his works were revealed such as fantastic strong colors unreal animal pattern or their details his wife and friends various divisions of the surface and so on. These attributes had been favored in depiction of his works to ex-press his home town or nostalgia. 2. '90s fashion designs inspired by the works of Chagall were analized to find out the meth-odology or the process of designs. The same Chagall colors were used in design and similar pattern were expressed through beaded work or printing jobs. The surface designs such as printing were the most prefered method in adapting the inspirations. 3. The plastic characteristics of the work of Chagall were attempted in clothing design and construction. The color combination patterns which remind the animals the surface divisions were used in design ot practive the methodologies.
A Study on Sex-role Attitudes of Women and Yin-Yang characteristics in clothing design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 71~83
The purpose of this study was 1) to investi-gate the trends of sex-role attitudes of women and 2) to examine the relations between sex-role attitudes and Yin-yang characteristics in clothing design. The survey was conducted among 317 women in Seoul and Kyunggi province. The results were as follows: 1) Androgynious gender and masculine gen-der with sex-role attitudes are strongly ap-peared among the low-age university students and not-married group. 2) Yang characteristics with light and cool-warm color to the clothing color and with clothing design are strongly appeared ming the low-age university students and not-mar-ried group. 3) Masculine attitude with clothing design preference attitudes are strongly appeared among the low-ager university students and not-married group. Many persons appeared to have feminine attitude rather than in andro-gynious attitude. 4) There are significant differences between sex-role attitudes and yin-yang characteristics to the clothing design. A high level of mascu-line gender is storngly indicated the yang characteristics with saturation to the clothing colorand and with clothing design 5) There are significant differences between sex-role attitudes and clothing design prefer-ence attitudes.
Technological Experimental Study of Traditional Plant-daes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 85~98
WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.
A Study on the Relation of Korean and Japanese Ornaments in ancient times
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 99~116
The object is to study the influence Korean ornaments had on the Japanese during the THREE KINGDOM PERIOD. In ornaments(Earrings Necklaces Bracelets Rings) also we can find commonness between Korean and Japan. CHIZASIL( a gardenia seed) and heart shaped of Earrings the use of gems in Necklaces engravings of abdomen on Bracelets and rhomb-shaped Rings all these are common between Korea and Japan. And the same time we can that our country was superior to Japan ornaments.
The Study on Dress through Rehabilitation
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 117~126
As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.
Effects of Men's Clothing Styles and Facial impressions on Attractiveness and Occupational Status.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 127~142
The purpose of this study was to Inferr the attractiveness and Men's occupational Status by facial Impressions and Clothing Styles. The Study was consist of experimentals methods. The experiments developed a set of stimuli and response scales which was pro-fessional suits(C1) general clerical position suits(C2) small business suits(C3) artist at-tire(C4) student attire(C5) The impression of stimuli were measured by means of semantic-duffernential scales an open-ended questionnaire and data was processed ANOVA Duncan's multiple range tes and x2-test. Judging the effects of occupational charaoteristics the experiment was designed in the between-subject design. The subject were 30 male and female who were divided 25 experimental groups as arranging 12 subjects. The conclusions of this study are as follows. 1)Facial characteristics affect the attract iveness and occupational status. 2) Clothing styles affects the inferrence men's attractiveness and occupational status. 3) Perceives inferrence of occupational status affect more impression of the high levels positions person and artist person. 4) High quality texiles deep yellow color suits are perceived high levels positions and white knit jacket and check printed slacks are judged Artist. 5) Artistically characterized person is perceived only artist even change any types of cloth.
A Study on the art to wear of the Wiener Werkstaette
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 143~158
It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette its artis-tic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up refiewing the Reform Movement It also covers characteristics works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk, The conclusion of this study is that : 1. Without losing its own specifc features various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art that is the com-posite are 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which be-came popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. unlike those ready-to-wear clathes those members of the Wiener Werkstaette preferred to make each clothes with different mateirals and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3.As a results of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul poiret 'Stu-dio Martine' was established in paris and new pattern deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were vuirtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Parisl That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials techniques and methods of productionl Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth "the Golden perlod of 1920s" 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-mod-ernism Since the late 1970s with the redis-covery of the culture of vienna in 1900s. the Art to wear which was created by the 'Wiener Werkstaette' but unfortunately tucked away by the Greate Depression and nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea it was since 1985 when 'the art to wear' began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the 'Gesamtkunstwerk' should be also ac-cepted and shared earnestly.
A study on the Judge's Robe and the Prosecutor's Robe in Korea.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 171~182
This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as
the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General
the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into
the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk
the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into
the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff
the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.
A Study on the Apparel Advertising Strategy and popular music singer
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 183~196
Study on the Apparel Advertising Strategy and Popular Music Singer. From the 1990s popular musics begin to reflect modern fashion. Especially those dance musics such as Rap or Reggae captivate teenagers through the mass media. So middle-low price causal cloth-ing companies hire the most popular singers as their role model. this marketing strategy succeeds to increas their sales and now many companies compete to engage famous singers,. in western countries where the music and the fashion have interacted for some times famouse singers express their personalities through the clothes they wear. The consumers try to imitate them by puchasing smiliar clothsing. And it makes the apparel company to produce more goods. However if those companies continue to be shiortsighted in terms of increasing sales in the shortrun with out their personality and differentiation brand concept. they will only instigate the teenager's consumptionand they'll fail to create their own fashion-style.
A Study on Skins in Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 29, 1996, Pages 197~208
Skins were manufactured in Korea since the early prehistoric period and were manufac-tured and used from the period of the three Kingdoms and Koryo through the Chosun era. These materials were developed into skins through a tradition of thousand years, . In Korea the Orient Culture of nomadic tribes and Mesopotamia Culture of stock-farming come together and developed these original woolen fabrics and skins culture. In this study the characteristics of Korean skins will be disscussed from the literature survey of the relevant references researched remains and pictures. During the Chosun period skins were fre-quently manufactured and used. Vsarious skins were used as necessites of life such as cloth-ing shoes bedclothes and so on.