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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
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Volume & Issues
Volume 30 - Nov 1996
Volume 29 - Aug 1996
Volume 28 - Feb 1996
Selecting the target year
An Analysis on the Research Trends of Social Psychological Aspects of Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 19~40
The purpose of this study is to make and analyse established studies of clothing pay-chology and marketing, showing the disciplin-ary trends problems and the outlook of social psychological Aspects of clothing. To achieve the purpose 621 articles have been used. -519 for master's and doctor's de-gree and 102 reported in journals -no social psychological Aspects of clothing for the past two decades(1974-1994) in Korea. All of these annual data were classified into making five years a unit. In the statistical analy-sis 'frequency' and 'percentage' were applied. To verify the degree of significance x2-test were used. 1. The trend of the study on the fields of clothing psychology consumer behavior and marketing over the period between 1974 and 1994 showed the continual trend of increase since the 1974 that the article on the field of clothing the continual trend of increase since the 1974 that the article on the field of cloth-ing psychology was first reported. 2. The domain that has the greatest pro-portion in the field of clothing psychology is concerned with the individual psychological factor and the study concerning interpersonal perception and development the measurement tool showed the tendency to continue to in-creas.
A Study on the Present Situation of Fashion Careers in the Apparel Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 41~58
To purpose of this study is to understand the present situation of the present situation of the fashion careers in apparel industry and to present a activation information for development of a specialty de-partment. This study has been proceeded with the library survey method, and 20 apparel enterprises have been researched with the questionaire and inter-view method. These were large and medium sized enterprises. The results were as follows: 1. Subdivision of fashion careers have been found insufficient on apparel enterprises in Korea. 2. Textile specialists have been needed on apparel enterprises in Korea. 3. Domestic enterprises have dropt out man-agement 4. These enterprises are negative for the consumer research and fashion information col-lection. 5. Fashion sepecialists have been found insuf-ficient on retail division, The propositions for activation of fashion careers are as follows: 1. Fashion careers should subdivide and specialize. 2. The apparel enterprises should employ textile designer. 3. The apparel enterprises should activate practical department. 4. The apparel enterprises should research consumer and collect fashion information. 5. The apparel enterprises should develop fashion specialists on retail division.
A Study of the Preference of Mini-Style according to Body Cathexis and the Stress Recognition level for a Group of Adult Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 59~68
As a society is becoming more and more complicated people living in modern times are experiencing more stresses for various reasons. Some past research results proved the role of clothing in reducing the stresses. The purpose of this study is to investigate how the preference of the mini-style which is recently most fashionable styles is related to the psychological factors such as stress and body satisfaction. Measure Instrument were Nolmes and Masuda(1973)'s SRRS(Social Readjustment Rating Scal) Secord and Jourard(1953)' Body Cathexis Scale and mini-style preference scale by author Survey questionnaires were distributed to two hundred seventy adult women living in Seoul area during may 25 1992. through June 8. 1992. The age range of the subjects was from 30 to 49 The final number of subjects in-cluded in the statistical analysis was 244. The result and conclusions are as follows: 1. Significant difference was existed in mini-style preference between high and low body satisfaction groups. Mini-style was pre-ferred by high body satisfaction group than low body satisfaction group. 2, Significant difference was existed in mini-style preference between high and low stress groups. Mini-style was preferred by low stress group than high stress group. 3. Regarding demographic characteristics unmarried 2 year college graduates with low family income in their early 30's pref. mini-style. 4. There was a marginal interaction effect of demographic characteristics on the relation-ship between mini-style preference and body satisfaction. The higher preference and body satisfaction. The higher preference for mini-style was found for the higher body satis-faction group mostly with the age range of 35 to 39 married 4 year college graduates as drop-puts and mid less income group. 5. There was a marginal interaction effect of demographic variables on the relatonship be-tween mini style preference and stress level The higher preference for mini-style was re-lated to the low stress level group mostly with age group of 35 to 44 high school graduates or lower and highest income group regardless of their marital status. In sum mini-style seems to be preferred by women who feel relatively less stress and are more satisfied with their bodies thus psycho-logically stable.
A Study About Topolgic Construction In Korean Clothes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 69~84
The main current of ancient Korean thought is based on Yuk(易) : which solves the principle of creation of universe letter(文字) which is the principle of geometry and three elements thought of circle square . It's related to the creation principle of the universe and regarded as a sign that demons-trates shows the way to read the mathematical principle. The original form of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is represents the structure of hu-man body which reflects a small universe. So a good structure and meaning of the human body is well read in the formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) and that is a good symbolization of the clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) as the space of small universe. The good formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be shown by cutting out straight bending twisting and turning each straitly cutting piece is applied to its trans-tormation. Geametical formation with obvious sym-metric dividing of front-back left-right and top-bottom is well shown in Korean clothes by twisting Yuk(易) or m bius strips. So we can find out whole formation by representing only either 'front and back' or 'left and right' and also sa-pok(사폭) of man's trousers seop(섶) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket 저고리) kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) of Sam-hwai-jang jeo-go-ri (삼회장 저고리), mu(무) of jig-ryung(straight collar and long and wide sleeved robe, 直領) trouser wide and ga-rae-ba-dae(가래바대) of dan-cok-kok(woman's under trousers). The formation line of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is based on theprinciple of unlimited m bius strips by twisting of turning direction from universal principle and original basic form is not changd even by turning in-side out. Unity of the whole and part in Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be found in nonorientable thought(非始原思想) which represents the unity and dependence kil(길) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket, 저고리) and po(long and wide sleeved robe, 袍). Selva-gewise(식서방향) of sleeves and seam of out-side of kil(길) and outside of seop(섶) are directed to outside of seop(섶) inside of seop(섶) is to kil and direction of inseam of kheut-dong(끝동) and kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) is directed to sleeves. Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is usually made by cutting fabric for several parts and sewing them and the way to make Korean clothes is deeply related to the theory of chon-pu-kyung jong-il and il-seok -sam-geuk. As the development of men's consciousness is pro-gressed from total separation to separation and superseparation. Sewing process of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) can be make single dimension to double or triple dimension of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) silhoutte bacause it can be include principle of topology as noneuclity.
A Study on the Symbolic Meaning of the Costume Colours
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 85~99
This study has been made to examine the symbolic meaning of our traditional costume colours based on the theory of yin-yang Wu-hsing the interaction of yin and yang with the rotation of the five agents wood firt earth metal and waters. Presenting the spirt and the life of our race the costume culture has been keep-ing its own systematic symbol. Being sensible the colour has to be under-stood as the colour sense therefore the cos-tume colour has begun to have the symbolic meaning with the feeling or the mental value. According to the theory of yin-yang wu-hsing the costume colour has presented our racial sprit way of thinking and way of life for a long time and it has become the tra-ditional culture at last. Based on the doctrine of cosmic harmony through the motion of yin and yang or the passive and active elements are their five agents form the material force of everything. The order of nature has its counterpart in five symbolic costume colours wood-blue ; fire-red: earth-yellow; metal-white: water-black. The five colours are called the primary colours. which produce the next compound colours. Accepted in the social system as well as the social stats the costume colour has set up systematically. The theory of Yin-yang Wu-hsing has given the five colours the symbolic meanings and its mainstream has been the function of Sangsaeng and Sangeuk which are genera-ted by the power of virture. The former is mu-tually beneficial while the latter destructive. The colour as a costume colour has been made distinction between the colour of the up-per classes and the colour of the middle and lower classes and the specific colour has presented the symbolic meanings. The yeollow the red and the purple have been regarded as the colour of king queen and upper classes Being the colour recognition the costume colour has been established by the society and the race generally Implied the spiritual elements the colour recognition could select the lucky colour in accordance with one's des-tiny. Besides the colour recognition has begun to appear as the racial costumes to protect the society and to pray for good fortune. According to the theory of Yin-yang Wu-hsing the costume colour has been forming through our long history and has become our costume culture. Therefore the colour of the costume has signified not only the colour sense but also the important symbolic meanings.
A Study on the Current Shroud(II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 101~116
The purpose of this study is to investigate the actual conditions of current shroud. People began preparing their shroud after their 60th birthday anniversary. To keep the prepared shroud unharmed mothballs leaf tobacco and kungkungi were placed inside. The size was larger than everyday clothes. The size of the men's shroud was 390 Ch'ok and that of the women's shroud was 330 Ch'ok in formal funeral ceremonies. But size would be determined by the person's standard of living or economic situation. According to the proposed size of shroud illustrated in table 10 and the size was 5 to 30cm larger than every-day clothes. The shape of the shroud was various that Ryomp'o represented by the cross and so on.
A Study on the Shaman's Costumesin in Seoul
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 117~126
This paper is a study on the shaman's costumes which were observed in the ritual of Jae-Soo-Kut held in Seoul. In this study the forms and functions of the shaman's costumes in Jae-Soo-Kut are compared with those of other Korean traditional costumes and differences are identified between them. The results of this study are also compaed with those of the study on the shaman's costumes in Chun-Sin-ut and other Koean traditional costumes. Shaman's costumes have undergone changes with the decrease in the number of believers in Kut resulting from the diffusion of foreign religion the weakening of believers' faith in Kut resulting from the improvement of science and technology and higher education and the invention of new textiles and development of sewing technology. The reasons why the Kut is performed even nowadays are also discussed. Among those reasons firstly Koreans hold to their own folk religions. Secondly the kut has peculiar artis-tic value for Koreans. Thirdly Koreans seek peace of mind through performing the Kut.
A Sutudy on the Kinds of Kitsch in the Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 139~152
THe purpose of this study is to clarify Kitsch in the modern society and to analyze the modern fahion design adapting Kitsch's materiality. Thus this study explains the concepts and background of kitsch and examines its aes-thetic value in consideration of the relation be-tween Kitsch and plastic art. Through a theoretical examination of histori-cal documents the meaning of the Kitsch is explored from various angles. The result of this study were as follows: Kitsch began in the period of the 19th cen-tury when was society began to form and so-ciety grew to be rich. This is to say Kitsch is the result of intrusion of capitalist modernity in the domain of the aesthetic modernity The concept meant ethical something bad counterfeit and bad taste. The materialities of Kitsch are over-decor-ation unfitness the use of imitation malfunc-tion used fashion design. 1. Over-decoration is due to the material abundnce through various accessories many colors etc. 2. Unfitness is obtained by the error of ar-rangement which means the wrong cohesion of form size of material. 3. The use of imitation makes use of cheap materals such as vinyl imitation leather imi-tation fur etc. 4. Malfunction comes from losing the orig-inal function by the addition of un-neccessary functions.
Influence of the 1960s Anti-Fashion on the Ethnic Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 153~166
The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.
A Study on the Crinkle Expressive Technique in Contemporary Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 167~181
Towards the second half of 20th century the fashion market has become increasely fragmented reflecting the pluality of cultures. As a result style no longer had time to accrue individuality and so people lost interest. In the aftermath of this fashion has turned its atten-tion to its materials for inspiration and inno-vation. Taking their inspiration for new working designers have began to explore diverse materials and expressive techniques of tex-ture. Textural expression can change the im-age of a garment even on with the same structural design. This study is to present the crinkle express-ive technique of texture through the applied examples in contemporary fashion and related backgrounds. The result of this study testified the import-ance of texture as plastic element through various techniques of crinkle; 1) creasing technique is reminiscent of the delphos of Fortuny by modern materials 2) twisting tech-nique is that finished garment is twisted and crumpled by hand 3) shirnking technique is recreated method that is crushed and tied for granting the human touch to the material.
A Study on the Costume of Stone Statues in Royal tombs and Graves in Shilla Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 183~200
The purpose of this study is to examine the custume of Stone statues in roylal tombs and graves in Shilla dynasty. Stone statues in royal tombs and graves in Shilla dynasty. Stone statues in royal tombs and graves are divided into statues of the twelve horary signs(十二支像) and stone figure of a man(石人像). The results are as follows. 1. Statues of the twelve horary signs are found eleven in royal tombs and graves. First statues of the twelve horary signs in assumed Shinmunwangrung(推定神文王陵) wear long robe(長袍) pants(袴) skirt(裙) It says that the costume element of Shilla and the costume elemnt of Tang are mixed. But statues of the twelve horary signs was developed as a tutel-ary god. Statues of the twelve horary signs in Kimyoushinmyo(金庾信墓) wear jacket pants(袴) instead of long robe(長袍). Also as attaching instead of long robe. Also as attaching other color cloth in collar of jacket or not they are showing dress of mulitary officer. next statues of the twelve horary signs in Hondokwangrung(憲德王陵) wear long robe(長袍) pants(袴). it says that they imi-tate assumed Shinmunwangrung(推定神文王陵) Kimyoushinmyo(金庾信墓). And statues of the twelve horary signs in the rest of royal tombs and graves put on decorative armor. 2. Stone figure of a man are found is Song-dokwangrung(聖德王陵) Wonsongwangrung(元聖王陵), Hungdokwangrung(興德王陵) and div-ided into two types. Thpe 1 wear long robe(長袍) and Yangdang(량 ). They stend for the best dress uniform of military officer. Type 2 wear Danreong(團領) with side slash. They stend for common soldiersoldier
A Study on the Shape of the Upper Arm and the Armscye Line
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 201~210
The perpose of this study is to compare and to analyze the characters of the shape of up-per arm and armscye line between young and aged women. The subjects were measured with the Mar-tin's anthropometer and with free curve ruler. 10 items in the shape of upper arm were measured and 16 items in the shape of armscye line measured indirectly based on the measured shape taken from the subjects with free curve ruler and both date were analyzed. Mean standard deviation f-test factor analysis were performed for the statistical analysis of the date. The main results were as follows: 1) The shape of the upper arm is long and narrow in youg women compared with aged. 2) The length of the axilla of the aged women were longer than that of young women. 3) There are significant differences young and aged women on the shape of armscye line. THe length of from the front point of axilla to shoulder point width and depth of the shape of the armscye line length of axilla of aged women were longer than that of young. but the length of from the back point of axilla to shoulder point of yyoung women was longer than aged. 4.) The front point of axilla was existed lower than back point of axilla in aged women while front point of axilla was existed higher than the back point in young. 5) Through the factor analysis two factors were obtained from the shape of the upper arm and five factors from the shape on armmscye line in both groups. Factor compornents in the shape of the up per arm were length width and girth of that and in the shape of the armscye line were width and length of upper and lower back and front part of the shape of the armscye line depth of the axilla. he items in the same factor were resemble each other between two groups.
A Study on the Feminism in Contemporary Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 211~225
In this paper we discuss the corelation be-tween feminism and fashion and examine its influnce on mordern fashion. And we also try to infer what the fashion design will be like in the future by understanding the value of mod-ern fashion from a new viewpoint. The Early Feminism which advocated the similarity between man and women held the thought that women could be equal to men only when they behaved in the same way as men did, In 1970s when the pendulum of the Early Feminism movement reached its highest point a manish look began to flourish. The manish look introduced the items once employed only for men such as trench costs tidy tailored suits shirts and ties to women clothes. It has taken root deeply in women's life and is still employed in various ways by many designers. From the late 1970s the pendulum of femin-ism movement began to swing toward the Essentialist Feminism which emphasized the differences between men and women. It fo-cused not on the negative image of womenseen from male-oriented viewpoints but on their positive image and stressed women's sex-ual characteristic to make distinction between two genders. in fashion the Essentialist Fem-inism played a role in bringing about a sexy look which stressed the erotic silhouette of woman's body. The latest feminism is the socio-cultural one- It sees the distinction between men and women as sexual discrimination and introduces the androgynous human which carries the characteristic of two sexes. it leads to ambi-guity of sex roles and at the same time serves to make androgynous social atmosphere by ad-mitting the coexistence of two genders. The androgynous idea in fashion is expressed as a new trend which crosses men and women's own beauty while keeping their own identity intact. As we have briefly reviewed feminism in fashion has been presented in various ways with regard to expressing the nature of men and women. And it has continuously indicated the ultimate message of the salvation of man-kind such as the respect for humanity and re-covery of humanism
A Study on 'Eco-Look' expressed in contemporary fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 227~237
The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmen-talism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into natu-ralism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors har-monisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Scondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruc-tion of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the hu-man desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and sim-plicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruc-tion of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the hu-man desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and sim-plicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environmet of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology
Changing Styles & Aesthetic Charactics of Modern mes's Sutil
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 239~259
This research is to observe background of origination and process of changing style for men's suits and also to observe the root of aes-thetics which has made the changing style be maintained for nearly 200 years. The aesthetic characteristics are 1)The revival of the Neo-Classicism beauty in the 18th century could be regarded as the root of incipient style of the modern men's suits design. And the cutters recreated ancient nude hero which was an object of envy at that time and also reproduced men's suits through modifying the existed suits to make the ancientnude conform with the sewing regulations in order to describe and convey the perfect image of gender,. 2) The cutter who pursued merit of the classicismic aesthetics in the late 18th cen-tury artistically upgraded English rough country coat to keep pace with Nordic coat style of netherland Russia Germany while in constrast with the coat style mode which was in fashion in France and Italy then And also they changed the English country coat to a noble natural clothing structure in relation to ancient sculpture to keep the English tradition. 3) Im the 18th century Neo-Classicism art emphasized transparent and monochromatic beauty and thus color was limitedly used. In the use of the limited color however ancient aesthetical simple purity was well described within the more realistic outline. In those days the cutter who admired the English neo-Classicism removed color-luster and preferred colorless finished dimly and transparently. And thus color of the men's suits become to be also dim colored in los brightness. This means that it did not express pure beauty but brought such effect of the Classicism beauty that the nude itself was figured out.
A Study about the Aesthetics of Oriental in Modern Fashion design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 261~274
In the present age dominate by both cer-taingty of 1% and uncertainty of 99% 'Fuzzy thinking' of Bart Kosko that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral thinking' and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Beno against the western vertical thinking were Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the orient and the occident. And they have dif-ferent thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the rec-ognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The aesthetic sense in the orient contains both the truth and virtue. 2) The beauty of the mean It's from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aes-thetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the har-mony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean because the spirit of the designer is harmonized for-mlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-artistic declar-ation that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness the sound of sound-lessness and the taste of tastelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is 'ad-vanced age' called the beauty of skillfulness. The view of arts of lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Es-pecially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design element such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur form the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage that is 'no virtues no vices' and 'one with two, two, with one, one is not two' A big tendency like this became the root forma-tion of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental aesthetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation which was a representation of an era when the thought of 'cosmic dual forces' dominated the basic polygons of 'a circle square triangle' means both 'one two three' and 'the negative positive mean' of cosmic elements. From this point of view the was of planner cutting in the Orient is dif-ferent from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The planner polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two two is three and three is every-thing. 2) The coloring and the symbolic represen-tation of the fashion design on the orien-tal elements The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is not the experi-enced from the knowledge but contains the consideration of philosophy Five-primary-color representing compass directions Blue(East) Red(South) Yellow(Center) White (West) and Black (North) is called ' the posi-tive' for this five-primary-color secondary-color which comes from the compound of the primary colors is called 'the negative' The thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is also an theory containing the natural order of the cos-mos and this shows the perceptional differ-ence that they are not conceptual but to be recognized and fell directly. A thought of Buddhism which is 'Colors are colorlessness and Clolorlessness are color's proves that. 3) The pattern and symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elements The pattern as a visual style is a figure of symbolic representation which adopt the mental and physical world of human and are the compo-sition of artistic revelation of the human nature and the religous thought of incantation. Es-pecially the symbolic representation of the oriental thought of Confusion. Buddhism and Taoism There are patterns such as plants aminals the oriental four gods and geometry. From the above it's the time toward the 21'th century when the world is constructing one global area and one historical zone. And the exotic mood of the Orient represented in the fashion which doesn't make the common feeling in general does not cease to develop only to express the visual modeling but also adopts the thought religion and the art which are the root of the Orientail and contains inherent willing of modeling.
A Study of Costume Types and background of Occurence in the Era of Renaissance
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 275~294
In fashion there was a move away from the ascetic of the Gothic according to the appear-ance of a new spirit at the beginning of the fourteenth centuries initially in Italy. The new spirit Humanism applied their interest not to the universal but to the individual and particular. The Renaissace costume style based on the Humanism was sharp angled and curvy and had a grotesque silhouette with the exaggerated and tense decorations. The purpose of this study is researching the background led to the balanced costume style characterized by unique details. out of the tastte for luxury and beauty grew a new style known as slashing in which seams were left open and colored linigs thrust through or cuts were made in an entire cos-tume and contrasting material puffed out of the cuts. With the slashes another element was characterized in the high Renaissance cos-tume style that was the use of points or lace to hold a costume together. For the masculint costumes pads became into a fashion and were used for forming the antinatural artificial and bulky silhouettes. The body was distorted and tensed by putting the pads into the sleeves and bodice. The jacket with a full rounded bodice like a bow known as peascod belly and haut de chausses a onion-shaped trunk hose with a codipiece ap-peared and grew one of the most characteristic of Renaissance style. According to these sociological changes the view of the beauty based on the human body and in both of men and women the costume style was changed very much to emphasixed their physical beauty and finally it grew a grotesque style and even more a exposed style that exposed a part of their body. Those backgrounds as were stated above can be said to lead to the appearance of the grotesque style in the Renaissance Age.
A Research of Chima in the Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 295~306
A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.
The Study of the Gwadai at the times of three countries
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 30, 1996, Pages 307~320
The purpose of this study is to classify of the ancient belt 'the Gwathai' especially in the timesof three countries. For this purpose the Gwathai was classified as to the motif which was decorated on the plate of the Gwathai and also another parts of the Gwathai were studied. The Gwathai could be classified of three parts. The first rectangular plate and the hanging part with heart motif and the second reverse-heart plate. The character of the third part was the specificity of the plate motif. Also there was a hanging part at the Gwathai and it was organized with the diverse form At first it was used for the practical pur-pose and then later for the decorational pur-pose. But this study could'nt reval the chang channel of the Gwathai and the relation be-tween region. This is the limit of this study. So more study is necessary to clarify this point.