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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
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Volume & Issues
Volume 35 - Nov 1997
Volume 34 - Sep 1997
Volume 33 - Jul 1997
Volume 32 - May 1997
Volume 31 - Feb 1997
Selecting the target year
A Study on Non-verbal Communication of korean Shaman Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 5~16
This paper studies in terms of nonverbal cmmunication the roles of Gut-clothinbgs used in Jin-Do Sit-gim Gut are classified as follows: 1) The message communicated through the ordinary clothings of a shaman is that he or she is waiting to serve as a presider of a Gut ceremony actiong as a mediator between the spirtual and the human world. 2) The shaman clothings representing many kinds of spirits are visualized figures which are closely related to the common wishes of most people in society e. g. physical and material well-being longevity fertility. 3) The clothings serve as a body figure in the Gut are classified into 5 groups. Laid-on clothings give the message that the body is standing still. Wrapped clothings serve as an incarnated body of the dead Spread clothings represent a lying body. Oscillated clothings are the symbols of a spirit which moves from this world to another. Burned clothins mean that the spirit has attained a complete seperation from this world
The Characteristics of Costume Color Design in Japanese Heian Period
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 17~31
The Heian Period(794-1192) was the period when luxury and elegance flourished. Gorgeous colors were adopted for the costumes and an el-egant assortment of colors prevailed. Representatiove of such costumes is kasane-no-irome. The world Kasane-no-irome originally came from two colors on both sides of one of the japanese kimonos called Uchiki. In later times it turned to indicate the combination ef-fect of colors of several Uchiki's worn in layers one over the other. This paper describes in de-tail the kasane-no-irome in both meanings. In so doing I distinguish two different kinds of kasane-no-irome using a Chinese character for the formed and for the latter though both are pronounced Kasane in the Japanese language. Part one of this paper which concerns the color combinations of presents typical 148 samples through reproduced dyeing clothes by Matumoto. Part two describes the color com-bination of which was so called Junihitoe. It presents typical 41 samples from reproduced dyeing clothes by Matumoto. The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of color distribution and the structure of color combination in Kasane-no-irome. Therefore we obtained the following results in Kasane-no-irome. 1. The color combination of Kasane-no-irome came from the natural color harmony there-fore the names of kasane-no-irome which adopt the names of flowers and leaves of the foure seasons. Accordingly the seasons for wearing them are fixed. 2. In the hue the most frequent appearance was green. And in the tone the most frequent apperance was moderate. 3. In the color combination the most fre-quent type were monochromatic combination and contrast combination.
Green Color for Color Planning in Apparel Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 33~46
The purpose of this study was to investigate color planning method for apparel fashion de-sign and to present the method of analysis of green color. Theoretical backgrouds of color planning for fashion design were scrutinized by documentary studies Fashion color planning has been developed through 4 steps: analysis of color environment analysis of color psy-chology presentation of coordination appli-cation to fashion design. Green color environment consisted of mar-ket informations and forecast informations The former were collected by color samples which were used for women's apparel of national brands from '93 spring/summer to '96 spring/summer and the latter were analyzed by fashion forecasting books. Green color psy-chology was investigated through the docu-mentary studiess. image of green color and these expressed in fashion were revealed through documentary studies. The results of this study were as follow: 1. 117 green color samples were collected from domestic womens brand. The character-istic of samples were the yellow green in hue and pale light bright in tone. forecast infor-mation was collected through fashion forecasting books from abroad and adaption of forecast information was investigated by mak-ing a comparison forecasting information be-tween market information. In consequence national market colors reflected the forecast information in concurrence with the character-istic colors of national women's apparel. 2. Affirmative images of green were nature youth health and abundance and negative images were extraordinary misfortune wind-fall. in these images nature youth and health were mostly used in fashion.
The Study of Costumes in Wangseja chulgungdo II -Centering Around Its Costumes-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 47~60
As we analyzed the formalities of court dress during King Soonjo's rule through the characters depicted in
(The Painting for a Crown Prince's Outgoing for Schooling to Sungkyunkwan) the results were as follows: People wore their appropriate full dress ac-cording to the ceremonial procedures. In the case of a Crown Prince normally the wore Gongjungchaek(a hat) (after the coming-of-age ceremony Iksunkwan) and Gonryongpo(imperial clothes) to show his status as a Crown Prince. He wore chugkumbok(a Coat) to indicate a Crown Prince as being a student. on an occasion of celebration a Crown Prince wore Wonyugwan and Gangsapo to provide him with prestige and as a sign of respect for the occasion. The teacher of a Crown Prince also wore Gongbok and Sangbok accoding to the dress requirements of the ceremonies. We can confirm that the Gongbok system of all government officials had been main-tained in the late Chosun dynasty. We know that the form of ceremonies be-came simplified in the late Chosun dynasty. it was recorded that students had to wear Chungkumbok. but we knew from the painting that students actually wore Dopo(a traditonal korean coat). We knew through this painting that the court dress rules of the late Chosun dynasty varied that previously known. As we concluded above research on the his-tory of costume by analyzing paintings both supplements our knowledge of the topic and confirms the deficiency in the study of the his-tory of costume based solely upon literature and books.
A Study of Krean and Chinese Kon-myun (Ceremonial royal Robes) as seen in the Relationshio between Regulations and practice in both Traditions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 61~73
Kon-myuh was worn by the ancient Chinese and Korean rulers as ceremonial dress during special rituals such as worshipping heaven and ancestors marriage or funerals. kon-myun consists of two major parts-Myun and kon-bok (the main bodypiece) as well as other articles of clothing(skirt footgear etc), There were regulations set in ancient books describing in detail the make of the kon-myun number of ryu and symbol to be used all which applied to each ruler depending on rank and status. This study is aimed at examining the consistency of the korean and Chinese in following the regula-tions as seen in relics which have been recovered from the past. Based on historical findings it seems that Korean Kon-myun came to Korea from China during the Three Kingdoms period. It was also worn in the Koryo and Chosun Dynas-ties and the Taehan Empire. In studying Konmyun in Korea the researcher studied a book from the early Chosun dynasty, Kukjo-oryeuiseory and a book from the late Chosun Dynasty Kukjo-sangrye-bopyun to find the guidelines and rules applying to the Kon-myun tradition. Slight difference were found across time in the supplementary articles of clothing as seen in Uigwe Pokwan-doseols explanations and drawings of Kon-myun. The researcher used uigwes of funerals of kings of the Chosun Dynasty and observed change over this period of time. However there was a clear consist-ency: the king's Kon-myun consisted of 9ryu-myun 9chang-bok while that of the prince consisted of 8ryu-myun 7chang-bok. For the Taechan Empire the researcher used Tae-han Yae-jun which shows the emperor's kon-myun to have consisted of 12ryu-myun 12chang-bok. To study how the regulations were put into practice relics were uncovered from the periods being studied. A portrait of King Ik-Jong remnants from King Ko-jong's Kon-bok and a photograph of Emperor Sun-jong all were in close adherence to the regulations outlined in the books. In China Kon-myun was worn by emperors from the Han to the Ching Dynastices. The researcher investigated Kon-myun es-pecially in the Ming Dynasty. The Kon-myun regulations as read in Tai-ming-hui-chan changed through all four periods. To study the faithfulness of practice to low Ding-ling the tomb of Emperor Shin-jong who ruled during a period of the Ming Dynasty was unearthed and the remains of the Emperor's Kon-myun were analyzed. The Kon-myun consisted of 12ryu-myuh 18chang-bok and there were other differences I color symbols and wearing method when compared to the regulations. It can be concluded that the Chinese Kon-myun tradition was not in strict adher-ence to the regulations established by law books. This is in contrast to the Korean Kon-myun tradition which showed little devi-ation. Further study is needed to understand why there was this difference in tradition and ritual.
An Ethnographic Analysis on Affective Aspects of Apparel Buying Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 75~87
The purpose of this study was to investigate the experiential aspects of consumer in the ap-parel buying process especially the affective aspects. An ethnographic approach is a kind of qualitative analysis or naturalistic inquiry be-ing adopted by studies of anthnopology and consumer behavior,. Data were collected via doing participant observation interview field notes and recording for three months from fe-male students of universities in Pusan. Results were as following: First consumers experienced the various kinds of affection in the apparel buying pro-cess such as satisfaction pleasure/refresh-ment interest/attraction pride conspicous-ness impulse neglect prostration anxiety ir-ritation and dispiritedness. Second especially they were felt satis-faction and conspicousness by the atmosphere of store pleasure by the smell of store and impulse by nostalgia in apparel buying process. Also negative affections felt in the process such as neglect prostration anxiety and irri-taton had a great influence to apparel buying behavior. This study was to serve as a pilot study we wished to fortify the methodology of qualitat-ive analysis to identify themes and to de-velop hypothesis for further study.
Observation on Neck Form of Young Japanese Women for Clothing Design I - A Method for Approximate Development of 3-D Measure Valuses -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 89~99
In order to know what sorts of features of neck fore may be required to make plans for tight fitting collars the neck form of young japanese women were measured three deme-nsionally using. GRASP(Grating projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. The following results were obtained: 1. We could be known the features of neck form for tight fitting collars by using both plaster torso method and GRASP method. 2. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL package program in macin-TOSHI computer it became possible to draft a numble of neck surface automatically there-fore we got analysis of a mass of subjects.
The research on the recognition of the beautyof the korean traditional dress
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 101~118
This research was carried out to sublimate our design with common sence so that the de-sign concept with our traditional chara-teristics can be acceptable in the world design area through re-creation works of tradition to be adoptable to modern concept. Form this survey the following could be derived. 1. in Korea designers should concern about the ration of skirt to jacket plait of Chima and string Koreum of hanbok. however they should pay more attention to string and color stripes to attract foreign customers in international market. It was found that koreans prefer the elegant and cur-vaceous design while foreigners demend edecor-ative design of Hanbok in addition to its el-egance and curvaeouseness. 2. It was also found that korean ramie fabric might be the most popular material for hanbok in Korea however silk and fine gauze might have to be used in international market. Generally it would be better to use the materials with natural and delicate feelings in Korea while the materials with gorgeous feel-ing in addition to natural and delicate feeling should be used in international market. 3, For the figures on Hanbok the embroidery figures and pictorial figures would be appropri-ate in Korea while it is necessary to develop the design with embroidery figures and gold foiled figures to satisfy the foreign customers. Accordignly it 8is required to develop the designers with figures with more elegant and gorgeous sence in both Korea and the world area.
A Study on Real somatotype and Body consciousness of Middle-aged women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 119~130
The purpose of this study is to examine differences between real somatotypes and cog-nitive somatotypes by considering the degree of satisfaction of body parts. The subjects were 250 middle-aged women from 40-54. Data was collected through anthropometry and surveys. Data was analyzed by correlation analysis anova duncan multiple range test factor analysis regression analysis crosstabulation analysis. The results were as follows: 1. Middle-aged women tend to prefer having a slim truck long and slim limbs and their hope was to be tall in height and light in weight slim at the waist and abdomen. 2. The consciousness about thickness was in-tensified more than that about length of the body. 3. The slim somatotype group were more satisfied with their body than those of obese somatotype group. 4. The average R hrer Index of middle-aged women is 1.55 and the slim somatotype group is 1.33 and the standard somatotype group is 1.53 obese somatotype group is 1.82. Age has much influence on the body change of middle-aged women. Especially 45-49 years old the slim body type declined heavily. 5. When analyzing the elements of body sat-isfaction the biggest elements are in the sub-ject of girth related to the expansion of trunk. Therefore trunk girth has more influence on body satisfaction than height and limbs. So the obession of trunk girth is the most important factor in body satisfaction. 6. Most middle-aged women although not judged to be obese by measurements believed themselves to be obese.
The Comparative Study of Koanbok between the koryo and Sung Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 131~144
This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok and Sangbok in the system of official outfit of the Koryo dyn-asty which has not yet fully studied in the history of Koren dress and its ornaments. Even in this difficult circumstances the sys-tem of dress and its ornaments can be under-stood with the help of remaining Buddhi-stliterature. Thus the system of official outfit in the Koryo dynasty has been studied here with some documentary records such as Koryo-dokyung Koryosa-yeobokji (The His-tory of Dress And Its Ornaments in The Koryo Dynasty) and so on. As the Koryo dynasty de-veloped her international relationships continu-ously with her neighbouring nation which were geographically closely connected so the systems of official outfit in the Chinese dyn-asty of Sung had to be studied and compared with, In the Koryo dynasty the same four colour system of purple red, deep red and green had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 not using the blue colour from the four colour system of purple Chinese red green and blue of the Sung dynasty. The four colour system of purple deep red green and black under the regin of the King Euijong was exactly the same as that of official outfit of the Sung dynasty in he year of 1078 the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae is a sure sign of influence of the system of Sung dynasty. Even though Koryo was invaded by Yuan druing the period of the regin of the King Chungyul the four colour system was not changed of purple deep red. green and black along with the same Dae-sudanryung(long sleeve and round collar). In 1387 the thirteenth year of the King Woo of the Koryo dynasty Pumdae was used ofor different official ranks and the sys-tem of wearing Samo and Dayung was established for the official outfit of every government officers.
The Effects of Cinema Costumes on Fashion -Based onEdith Head's Work-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 145~164
Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.
Perceptions of Clothing Norms Clothing Behavior and their Relations to Psychological Variables of College Student
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 165~188
This study aims at 1) examining the perceived importance of clothing norms 2) examining relationship between perceptions of clothing norms clothing behavior and psycho-logical variables-ego identity(uniqueness and self acceptance) and sex role identity and 3) ascertaining any significant differences in the level of the perceived importance of clothing norms among variables-sex role identity and the uniqueness in psychological variables-and which variables are influencingon perception of clothing norms. The perception of cloth in norms inventory clothing norms inventory clothin behavior inventory ego identity in-ventory and the Bem Sex Role Inventory were administered to 620 college students. Sex role identity was classified into androgynous mas-culine feminine and undifferentiated type. Subjects were asked to rate each statement on the clothing norms under two kinds of instructions: their attitudes(TATT) and their beliefs about the expectations of others toward clothing norms(TBEO). 1) The scores of 3 TBEO of the students were higher than the scores of TATT. But the scores of TBEO concerning modesty of students were lower than the scores of TATT. Discrepancy scores of TATT and TBEO of the students were revealed significances differently according to clothing norms. males lower and higher class students had more free attitudes to the norms concerning genaral clothing attitudes. Females and higher class students had less free attitudes to the clothing norms concerning modesty. Females and lower and higher class students had more free attitudes to the norms concening sex-role related clothing attitudes but male students had less free to the sex-role related clothing norms. 2) Significant negative correlations between each variable of clothing norms and conform-ity-individuality were found. But negative correlations between those variables of the males and lower class students were higher than the correlations of the female and higher class students and the former had more posi-tive relationships with clothing norms and con-formity as compared with the latter. And sig-nificant positive correlations between each variable of clothing norms and modesty were found. But positive correlations between those variables of the males females and higher class students were higher than the correlations of the lower class students and the latter had less positive relationship with clothing norms and modesty as compared with the former. 3) Significant negative correlations between clothing norms and uniqueness were found in the subjects groups. The females and lower class students had more negative relationships with clothing norms and uniqueness as compared with the male and higher class students. Significant positive correlations be-tween uniqueness and conformity-individuality were found in all subjects groups, Therefore the higher uniqueness the student have the less they perceive theimportance of clothing norms and the more they have individuality. Significant positive correlations between sex-role related(higher class) general(female) clothing norms and self acceptance were found. but significant negative correlations be-tween campus style(higher class) general(female) clothing norms and self acceptance were found. But significant negative correlations be-tween campus style(males lower class, higher class) clothing norms and self acceptance were found. Clothing norms therfore related posi-tively or negatively with self acceptance ac-cording to the subjects groups. And significant negative correlations between conformity in-dividuality and self acceptance was found in higher class students. 4) The female masculine groups and the masculine groups of lower class revealed high scores than the scores of andrgynous group and undifferentiated group in clothing norms concerning modesty. And the feminine group revealed high scores in conformity-individu-ality than the scores of the masculine group. Male masculine and feminine group revealed high scores in clothing norms concerning cam-pus style than the scores of the androgynous group. The masculine group and feminine group of the lower classes revealed high scores in general clothing norms than the scores of the androgynous group. 5) The most influencing variables on the clothing norms were sex conformity-individu-altiy and masculine-feminine variables in the right order. The general clothing norms and clothing norms concerning modesty were influened by the sex role identity but the sex role related clothing norms and clothing norms concerning campus style were influenced by the ego identity. 6) Based on the sum scores of the uniqueness each group of the subjects was separately segmened into "high medium and low" groups. By the analysis of variances sig-nificant differences in discrepancy scores of TBEO and TATT among 3 uniqueness level groups were found on all clothing norms variables in all students three clothing norms variables in male and female students and one clothing norms variable in lower and higher students and in each clothing norms variable the mean discrepancy scores of the high uniqueness group were higher than those of the other groups. The findings indicated that the differences in the discrepancy score mainly contributed to the results of correla-tions described above.bed above.
Analysis of Mass Fashion on the basis of Movie Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 189~202
Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.
A Study on Symbolism of Man's Neckwear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 203~214
The neck is the human body is closely con-nected with the life and properties of keeping warm as one of the opening part in clothes. In ancient times it was put on necklace for the protection of neck and in Rome it was worn muffler called focale for the protection of neck throat. in addition cravat directly originated in necktie today was primarily worn for the protection of soldier's neck and has been turned into decorative purpose until today. As the ornament is developed to vari-ous kinds of form the neck decoration is changed and grown again and again. Therefore this thesis studies history of the neckwear and various the symbolic factor. The first factor is the social. The neckwear shows the social position class and status and does social mutual interaction as conversation starters. The second factor is the mental It express individuality fondness attitude and is felt to be indignity by being forced to be worn. The third factor is the political. it shows political tendency by indicating the royal sign or part's sign in necktie like the French royal-ist's green muffler The forth factor is the man's sexual. I expresses wearing stock being brave symbol-izing independence. The sixth factor is the traditional. It is worn with appearing traditionand custom and one of cultural movements. The seventh factor is the ideological. It symbolizes the freedom of suffragettes and emancipation of woman. The social factor is the most extensive among them. The neckwear is various in the way of expression like its kinds and is generalized, It functions as a independent part of clothes.
A Study on the Sil-Sil and Chun
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 215~222
This is a study on Sil-Sil and Chun. Sil-Sil is a kind of turquoise. According to its burial place and use its identity was fixed, It was discovered in the Middle-East Asia like Iran and Tibet, Ancient China imported turquoise from these countries,. Korea also imported it in Shilla period. It was the empresses only who had the priviledge of using Sil-Sil for their ornaments such as hair-pins headdresses and combs. Chun was a sort of metal ornaments. Chun required a high-skilled work' and it showed how advanced its skill at that time.
The Theoretical Concept and Structure of the Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 223~236
The purpose of this study is to set up the concept and the structure of 'the image' theoretically. The study is carried out by the literature research. The image is constituted of several concepts which are as followed: The concept of definition: perception cognition/impression. The concept of target: objective/per-son The concept of content: internal/exter-nal The concept of level :lower/upper Especially levels of image are divided into 3 different levels which are 'simple level' 'complex level 1' 'com-plex level 2' The concept of image is classified into the horizontal and the vertical structure. The concepts of the definition the target the con-tent are included in horizontal strcture and the concept of the level is included in the ver-tical structure.
A Study on Clothing of Murals in Anak No. 31
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 31, 1997, Pages 237~249
Anak No. 3. the largest tomb that has ever been unearthed in Korea bears a significant meaning in the study of tomb and other re-lated subjects because it represents a specific era in history. The clothing on murals of Anak No 3. among other things provides a great deal of materials for the study on the history of clothing. We have discussed the male clothing on the murals dividing it into various categories such as official Kwan Mo, Po, Yu, Go, Dae Shin, etc. The clothing displayed a strong Chinese influence but at the same time also contained some elements of the Koguryo era. This fact shows the combination of the two cultures. There are two theories over whose tomb Anak No. 3 is "King's tomb" theory and "Dong Su" theory. Based on the result of examination of the tomb through the clothing "Dong Su" theory is considere to logical. The clothing on the murals can be regarded as Korean even if the tomb is that of a Chinese because that person is a part of the history of Koguryo.art of the history of Koguryo.