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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 35 - Nov 1997
Volume 34 - Sep 1997
Volume 33 - Jul 1997
Volume 32 - May 1997
Volume 31 - Feb 1997
Selecting the target year
A study on the formativeness of the junk Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 5~25
The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Junk Art represented in the second half 20the century fashion. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption. By this fact human being of the 20the century was to overcome social com-plexity. In this respect this research was focused that how the characteristics of the junk Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. The concepts of the Junk Art lied in the creation of art work in the 2-dimentional plane of 3-dimentional space through the application of all junks (wood pieces industrial debris trash ready-made goods etc) cast by the mod-ern industrial society and the mass production system. Juck Art had been further envigorated in the footstep of the development of the collage method based on the creation of object aes-thetics. And junk artists have untitled social environments with art by assembling junks as a way of exploring the material world of cur-rent society and provided infinite possibilities of expressional medium and technique. Above all junk Art has been reflected in the fashion as well as other art. Especially a lot of the fashion design by the use of junks and the expressive image of junks is produced in the 20th century. That is many of fashion designers have always been aware of what is happening in the arts and have always been able to use the dis-coveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and creat fashion which are new inventive and reflective of their time. The fashion designers of the junk fashion design could be said to have presented much more possibilities and new development for-mulas to modern fashion design and provided a new order of other formative arts. Unlike the negative and destructive punk cyberpunk fashion junk fashion was a positive and optimistic aesthetics. junk fashion that keeps pace with science and the development of technology is devoted to trying to grasp the real form of ultimate re-ality.
A Study on the Image Evaluation and preference of Brand Name of Women's Shoes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 27~39
The purpose of this study was to classify the attributes of brand image criteria of women's shoes to compose the perceptual map of the brand by factor analysis and to examine the differences in brand preferences and purchase methods of shoes according to demographic variables. 10 brand names were selected for the study Samples were 271 women in Seoul Korea :143 were college students and 128 were career women.The data were analyzed using factor analy-sis multiple regression analysis one-way ANOVA Duncan's multiple range test x2-test t-test. The results of the study were the -followings: 1. Four segments of brand image attributes of women's shoes derived by factor analysis: F. 1. 'utility' F.2'appearance' ; F. 3 'sales promotion' ; F.4 'financial factor'. 2. As the result of draw up the perceptual map 'landrover' was high in utility but low in appearance 'Misope' and 'Mook' was low in utility but high in appearance. 'Fashion Leader' was in the nearest ideal direction to the utility and appearance. 3. The preference level of the shoes brand name was in order of the 'Fashion Leader'. 'Mook' and 'Soda' But consumers possessed 'Landrover' the most 4. There were significant differences among preference level of ' Landrover' and 'Misope' according to the social class. There were sig-nificant differences among possession level of 'Misope' and 'Soda' according to the social class 5. the middle and lower class consumers used an exchange ticket during the bargain sales more than upper class when they pur-chase shoes.
A Study on Image Preferences of Clothing Styles and Self-Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 41~54
The objectives of this study were to find out the relationships between clothing style pre-ferences and self-image and to examine the differences in clothing style preferences ac-cording to marital status educational level and social stratification of women. The drawings of clothing style were designed referring to the catalogues for spring/summer of 1996 and printed by computer 6 styles of suit corresponding to clothing image were selected. Style A is a brown suit decorated with scarf style B a grey suit with stripes C a yellow suit with printed pattern D a grey and beige suit E a chanel suit decorated with corsage and F a blue suit with pleated skirt. The self-image was separated to the actual self-image and the ideal self-image. Samples were 226 women(ages 18 to 37) in Seoul Korea. The results of the study were the followings. 1. Clothing images of 6 styles were estimated; Style A was plain conservative formal and gentle image ; B masculine solid actual dark and plain image; C feminine romantic bright and splendid image; D actual ordinary un-fashionable and plain image; E feminine ten-der romantic and non-active image ; F indi-vidual fshionable open casual sprightly and active image. 2. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and realistic self-image. The women who considered them-selves as masculine preferred style B mascu-line and plain image. The women feminine and conservative preferred style E feminine and tender image. The women not to follow the fshion preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women informal and open pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 3. There were significant relationships be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be-tween clothing style preferences and ideal self-image. The women who wanted to be con-sidered themselves as feminine and conserva-tive preferred style E feminine and tender im-age. The women who wanted gentle and con-servative preferred style D ordinary and plain image. The women who wanted sprightly pre-ferred the style F casual and active image. 4. There were significant differences in clothing style preferences according to marital status educational level and social stratifi-cation. The women with more eduacation pre-ferred the splendid and the plain image at the same time. The upper class preferred feminine image and lower class casual and active image.
A Study of Fashion and Textile Design Education in the UK
Choo, Tae-Gue ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 55~72
The Universality and Uniqueness of Korean you-Go and Chiness You-Go(유.고 an upper grment-a pair of trousers) and Chiness You-Go(유.고)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 73~88
In old Korea from the 4th century of 6th cen-tury the lapels of You and upper garment folded slightly. It had tight sleeves and its length was not long reaching to the hips. but from the 7th century the sleeve of You became wider and its length became longer, Chinese You folded very deeply across the breast and its sleeve was tight. The length of Chinese You was short too strectching out to the hips. From the 5th century the sleeve of the Chinese You became wider Chinese trousers with wide crotch appeared in the 4th century during the time when Ezst Jin Dyn-asty ruled China. The upper garments with the wide sleeve was common by the 7th century in China. What is specially noteworthy is that Short-dalnyung appeared in the 5th ∼6th century. In old Korea strings were used to tie the bottoms of the trousers. Trousers with tight crotch did not need the strins. korean trousers with wide lines were narrower than the Chinese trousers at the bottom and it was not necessary to use the strings for people to put them on In China there were both of wide trousers and tight trousers. People tied trousers around the kness with the strings in the formal places but they did not tied the trousers with the strings when they wore the ordinary clothes. Chinese trousers were very wide just like a skirt and they were much wider than wide Korean trousers.
A study of an Opening in distribution Market and Foreign Branded Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 89~104
The purpose of this study is to analize the introduction statues of a license brand and an importing brand from the foreign clothing companies then suggest the preparation to win in competition The suggestions are as followings ; 1, Develop the own brand which meets orig-inal concept. 2. Avoid an indiscreet and unplanned im-porting of foreign brand clothing. 3. Need consistant investigation of con-sumer's purchasing trend. 4, Instead of importing foreign brand re-quire discrete strategy of its own devloped B.(Private Bradn) clothing of department store. 5. To prepare for fast changing in a distri-bution market need education program for experts. 6. Develop various distribution companies that can provide convinece to customers.
A Study on the Purchase of Foreign Brand Clothing according to Fashion Involvement.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 105~115
The fashion clothing market is changing due to the appearance of new consumer group. And the import of foreign brand clothing is highly increasing. The purpose of this study is to help the domestic apparel companies set better market-ing strategy by studying the relation between fashion ivolvement and the purchase be-havior of foreign brand clothing. Subjects were 498 new generation women living Seoul metropolitan area. Data were obtained by questionnaire and analyzed by SPSS package. The main findings of this study are as follows; 1. The result of factor-analysis of the fashion involvement's variables were classified into 8 factors. 2. Consumer's main purpose of buying new clothes were To coordinate clothes with each other' 3. Consumers evaluated every clothing factors: color fit etc of foreign brand very highly except the price. 4. The factor that consumers consider most when choosing clothes is color design fit de-tail texture and brand knowledge in order. 5. the advertizing method that consumers care the most was shop and window display. 6. 'Because design and color are good' were the most important factor as motive of buying foreign brand clothing. 7. Most consumers still bought domestic brand clothing. 7. Most consumers still bought domestic brand clothing. 8. Monthly income and purchase of foreign brand were positively related 9. All variables 2of fashion involment were positively related with the purchase of foreign brand 10. Consumers with higher monthly income did not care much about 'Weather or occasion' when buying clothes. And consumers living in Kangnam(compared with consumers linving in Kangbuk) cared more about personality and bought more foreign brand. 'Social and econ-omic status' were highly related with monthly income residence and purchase of foreign brand clothing 11. Older consumers cared more about color figure texture and fit than younger con-sumer. Monthly income were positively re-lated with design color and figure. Residence were highly related with color and figure. Pur-chase of foreign brand clothing were positively related with design color figure and fit. 12. Younger consumers cared more about brand knowledge. And the purchase of foreign brand clothing were positively related with de-sign detail and brand knowledge. 13. Consumers with foreign brand's purchase experience showed negative relation between ;foreign brand's purchasing experience' and 'Weather or occasion' 14. Consumers with no foreign brand's pur-chasing experience showed negative relation between fashion innovativeness and figure. 15. Consumers with no foreign brand's pur-chasing experience showed positive relation between fit and fashion opinion exchange. The study shows that colors is most import-ant factor in purchasing clothes. And imported brands are very strong in terms of proposing various and unique colors. not all brands succeeded in Korea. Those brands that failed to group consumers have the following problems. Therefore it is critical to review the above factors when importing the foreign brand.
A study on Perfume case
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 117~142
This study is on perfume case that is one of a great number of ornaments which was designed by out ancestors. We had developed the tradition and the history of perfume case bag fan-weight etc. These have the same function as the present perfume. case. There were basket-shaped perfume cases which were the smellest one among the personal girdle ornaments in the silla era. The various pat-terned perfume case were made of gold metal coral platinum or green jadeite etc. In the single-crop trinkets a embroidered perfume bag with the gold and silver thread whose forms perfectly match their functions ap-peared during the Yi Dynasty. There was also a perfume bag which was one of the daily necessities. A precious "jul perfume" was car-ried by noble women. A fan-weight perfume bag was attached to the fan to emphasize the intrinsic beauty of utility and function. It is necessary to know the function of pre-fune case. As perfume case is weared on the clothes it was given more decorative effects as well as the function of medicinal amulet with a sweet smell. Therefore it is very important for us to study perfume case that has various function as an ornament. So The purpose of this study is to investi-gate the practical and decorative side of per-fume case with the general examines of per-fume finding how to practice use through our life. The results were as follows; 1. The first use of perfume is perfuem through smoke which is for ceremony of re-ligion It removes human body odor by degrees and spreads a sweet odor. Also the materials for making perfume of early age is aromatic plants which will be used flour-made flowers stems. As the materials for making perfume use is increasing today we can invent alcohol perfume today 2. Our country the custom of perfume-used is wide. Among them men's perfume-used was very special phenomenon. For example men were wearing perfume bag in the Silla era. Because perfume represented wealth and noble in those days. They shew off social position personality through oerfyne-used. 3. One of early religion ceremony article there was the perfume. And perfume case was means for containing perfume. Gradually the perfume case was used widly as increasing needs of perfume in human life. 4. In the middle period of 'Koryo' Dynasty perfume cases had a close relationship with clothes but after Mongolian has been attacked 'Koryo' there were changes in wearing clothes therefore the position of perfume cases were transfered to coat string that was the origin of decoration style that they began. That is to say the perfume case has been influenced the position of perfume case shapes with chang-ing of fashion. 5. The perfume case has been made manifest various function as an ornament. In the practi-cal side First medical-perfume in perfume case has been played an important role in first-aid medicine in critical condition. Second it was amulet for self protection. That is the shape pattern color materials perfume of the perfume case was represented the amuletive nature. Third it was used as substi-tute article of perfume. Modern women use liquid-perfume as our ancestors used perfume case bag or jul perfume As started above. Also In the decorative side the perfume case has a beautiful formative arts by itself as well as a close relationship with clothes. That well as a close relationship with clothes. That is when the perfume case is worn on the clothes costume is showed aesthetices. That is the materials shapes color pattern of the perfume case we can see the visual beauty also the materials colors embroidered pat-tern knots tassel that are used the perfume case are increased th decorative beauty of costume. Sixth the symbol in pattern of the pattern case is shown ancetor's wealth and rank health longevity immortality many-born-boy in those days. Today the perfume case is not used with changing of costume by degrees, Accordingly I hope that the result of this study is an influencd in devlopenent of the perfume case design with matching the mod-ern fashion
A Study of Clothing Imagery Emerging from Shakespeare's Plays II -Focusing on MAcbeth, 1996 RSC production-
Bae, Soo-Jeoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 143~156
A study on the Mannerism tendencies in the Contemporary Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 157~173
The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political economical and psychological trends and was the first mo-dality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time es-pecially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value the coexistency of conflict the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncer-tainty I modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focus-ing th fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper the author suggests the Defor-mation Ambiguity and Irreglarity as the character of manneristic trend which has re-solved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of mannerism to the modern costume is followd; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transfrmation of morphology the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogiclities in modern costume are the technique of illusion structural illogicality and the collage technique.
A Study on the Consumer Dissatisfaction and Complaining Behavior by Consumer Value
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 175~188
the main purpose of this study was to inves-tigate the consumer dissatisfaction and com-plaining behavior in purchase and use by con-sumer value. The subjects participated this study were 204 female students. They were classified into 3 groups by important degree of instrumental value which is one of the 2 value categories that divided by the Rokeach. In order to assess consumer dissatishaction in purchase and use of clothing by those groups. The Clothing Purchase Dissatisfaction Inventory was used and The Consumer Complaining Behavior Inventory was adapted to asses consumer complaining behavior. The Clothing Purchase Dissatisfaction Inventory has 4 subscales(Price related factor Produt and Quality related factor Information and Service related factor Purchase decision-mak-ing related factor)and The Consumer Complaining behavior Inventory consisted in 3 subscales(Do nothing Private complaining Public complaining) Using SAS package in order to examine Clothing Purchase Dissatisfaction Inventory scores anaslysis of variance (MANOVA) was excuted And turkety test a kind of post-hoc multiple comparisons methods was adapted to compare Clothing Purchase Dissatisfaction In-ventory scores of each groups. in order to in-vestigate consumer complaining behavior by each groups and grade major pocket money a month the mean purchse price of clothing a month x2-test Frequency Percent were executed. Conclusion eached in this study are as fol-low: 1. Each group had differences in price re-lated factor Product nad Quality related fac-tor Information and Service related factor ex-cept Purchase decision -making related factor Groups which made much of value tend to dis-satisfy in price related facor Product and Quality related factor Information and Service related factor. 2. Group that made much of value had more high scores in private complaining complainto third party and the middle group had more high scores in private complaining . Group made little of value tended to do nothing. 3. Grade major pocket money a monty the mean purchase price of clothing a month didn't have difference signficantly in consumer behavior. but major had difference on private complaining.
A Study on the Mods Look
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 189~199
The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.
Purchasing Behavior of Outlet Store Patronage Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 201~215
The purpose of this study was to investigate the actual state and problems of outlet stores. And examine store attributes shopping orientations information sources according to demographic characteristics for outlet store patronage group. The questionnaires were administered to 400 women living in Taegu. The data were analyzed by using Frequency Percentage Factor Analysis MANOVA. The results of the study were as follows; 1) Outlet stores in Taegu area were run as the type of agency and dealt in most brands of their own companies, There were plenty of as-sortment and merchandise. The discount rate was 50-60% Stores' locations were scattered which made shopping environment incon-venient. 2) The store attributes were composed of five factors such as fashion & products diver-sity service store reputation convenience and price. Shopping orientation were com-posed of six factors such as self-confidence for shopping brand oriented store loyalty & near-store oriented economical self-assumed shopping and difficulty of choice. Information sources were composed of four factors such as print media & display personal information advertising and store visit. 3) There were significant differences be-tween patronage group and non-patronage group in store reputation service fashion & products diversity. Patronage group is more satisfied with these three factors. There were significant differences between patronage group and non-patronage group in brand oriented and economical Non-patronage group was more brand oriented and patronage group was more economical. There were significant difference between patronage group and non-patronage group in print dedia & display factos. Non-patronage group made more use of print media& display than patronage group as information sources. There were significant differences between patronage group non-patrpnage group in age marital status and levle of education.
A Study on the Effect of Drape by the Construction Method of th eCircular Skirt
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 217~228
The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.
A Survey on Uniforms and Development of New Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 229~253
Uniform is getting increased importance as one of the symbols which represent the characteristics of company as well as gives good impression to the customers. Uniform shows the kinds of companies and forms of jobs and it makes the people who is putting on the uniform feel the sense of unity a security of one's position and the companion-ship and also it gives him a sense of responsi-bility and elevates the efficiency of tasks. It is required to be designed for a uniformity and it can contribute in the increase of work ef-ficiency and help the company get the good results of the management by inspiring the workers with conceit and belongingnesses. The purpose of this study is as the followings 1) Through the practical survey we analyze workers' staffs' and consumers' preference of uniform design 2) We analyze the fashion trend for 97/98 A./W 3) We present each uniform design for seven different types of company on the basis of 1) (design preference) and 2)(fashion trends).
A Study on Clothing Pattern Preferences Associated with Sex Role Identity Gender and Age
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 33, 1997, Pages 255~267
The objective of this study was to examine how clothing pattern preferences vary accod-ing to sex role identity gender and age. Questionnaire of shirt pattern prefere-nces and short form Bem Sex Role Inventory was administered to 627 men and women(10's to 40's) in Kwangju City. Sex role identity was classified in androgynous masculine feminine and undifferentiated type. 1. The men liked thick horizon thin check and plaid pattern better than the women while the women small flower one. 2. The 10's liked thick horizon thin check and plaid pattern better than the women while the women small flower one. 2, The 10's liked thick horizon pattern better than the others, 3. On the interaction effect according to gender and age the women in their 30's liked polka dots pattern better than the men while the women in their 10's and 20's liked plaid pattern better than the women in their 30's and 40's 4. On the interaction effect according to sex role identity and age the masculine type in their 30's and 40's disliked small flower pat-tern while the feminine type in their 30's and 40's liked it. The women in their 30's liked small flower pattern while the 10's disliked it more than the others. 5. The androgynous type liked thin check and plaid pattern better than the others. The present findings provide that sex role identity gender and age influenced clothing pattern preferences. Gender and age had sig-nificant interaction effects on the preferences. The traditional connections between sex role identity and flower pattern perferences were confirmed only in the 30's and 40's.