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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 41 - Nov 1998
Volume 40 - Sep 1998
Volume 39 - Jul 1998
Volume 38 - May 1998
Volume 37 - Mar 1998
Volume 36 - Jan 1998
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Aesthetic Consciousness of Body and Dress Based on the concept of the Abstract/ the Realistic of Body
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 5~21
This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.
A Study on the Ornaments Design of Jewels by CAD System
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 23~47
Ornaments is a province of the fashion. It usually express noble metals and jewel's adorn-ment as the symbol of status and riches for a long time. The ornament design of Jewels drawing project and a product by computer are increased development and as exertion as a realization of automation. Through the use of CAD software(Auto CAD R 13 & Jewel CAD) \circled1 A design development of the jewels in industrial society \circled2 A metals art & design on the dress and it's ornaments - Study about application of principle(liberal curve, arrangement of repeated form, gradual unity, rhythmical harmony) Although Auto CAD don't various expression of Jewels than a Jewel CAD, formative.scientific.funtional development of geometrical form is free. That is (to say), geometrical form is given much weigh in the general CAD, but Jewel CAD made concentrate software on the jewels design for the expression of liberal form. The CAD/CAM software for jewellery program is composed of main menu, icons, hotkeys. Changing form is derived from a definite point, curve elements of a drawing. \circled1 3-Dimensional \circled2 Easy and flexible \circled3 Bulit-in and self created library \circled4 From simple wire frame to full color images. As a CAD can practice all the creation activity effectively, from Design & Drafting Software to Rendering generally can present precise results. A point of view of the connection the scientist and art, this practicableness of CAD have a lot of possiblity of development. That will do much for the related fields of industry. Consequently, subjective intension of a creator & humanity with value plays role in practical application of the design.
A Study on the color of Daily Clothes of middle Era of the Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 49~62
This study investigates the color of daily clothes of middle era of Yi dynasty by examining the color of excavated clothing which was the real clothes in 16th and 17th centuries. The purposes of this study lie in understanding emotional feeling observed by exact measurement of the color of the excavated and devising a method of reserving the color of the excavated by inspecting the discolored color of the excavated. For this, the color difference was measured by color measuring system. Minolta Chroma-meter, and then recorded in L*a*b system. The 3-dimensional color difference was observed by analyzing these data on Methmetica and change in color with ageing was assessed by reconstructing the color by Phoposhop. The color construction of daily clothes of middle era of the Chosun Dynasty was founded on a philosophy, and it was made up of colors such as white, brown, and blue. This color construction seemed to be based on the philosophy of naturalism symbolizing surrounding nature, e.g., white symbolizes Bak-sasang(bak-philosophy) and blue implies Eumyangohangsul.
A Study on the Ritual Dancing Suit of Koryo Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 63~93
This thesis focuses on how the dancing suit frequently used in the Korean royal court has been chronologically changed to that of the modern times. It also aims at how the implicit symbols shown in the royal court dancing suit are related to the traditional concepts and thoughts on Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural-Elements(Eum-Yang-Oh-Haeng). The results of this thesis are as follows. In the historical period of Koryo dynasty, the Buddhists religional ceremonies of YeonDueng-Hoi and PalGwan-Hoi favoured a ritual dancing of DangAakJeongJae originated from the old ancient China, and at the same time it also employed HyangAakJeongJae of Sin-la dynasty. Especially, the DangAakJeongJae contained the kinds of SooSeon-Dyo, Soo-YeonJang, PoTae-Aak, OhYa-ng-Seon, and YeonHwaDae-Mu; and the Hyang-AakJeongJae dealt with Moo-Go and Aa-Bak.
A Study on the form of korean Women's Hair Style-From the Viewpoint of Woman's Hair Style in Cho-Sun Dynasty-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 95~105
SOO-BAL(Hair Style) is a method Which match hair style to face and clothes with using hair covering and protecting the head. Also SOO-BAL includes personal ornaments using to avoid one's hair be disheveled. In a standpoint of beauty and spirit, etiquette SOO-BAL is a very important thing as one being dressed up. Until now, since just a form of hair style have been studied, hair styling process is nothing to be known and studied. Time after time, our unique traditional SOO-BAL is forgotten with clothes and then this th-esis will be classified hair styling form follow-ing a form of hair style in royal palace of the C-hosun dynasty. According to the record of HAE DONG HISTORY, it shows the same of attire between Ko-rean and chinese style in ae of the chosun. The reason in that there were no any certain boundary border and the interaction of culture between two countries was happened spontaneously at ancient time like the GOCHO-SUN age. Until the period of the three states, the korean attire be changed had gone with chinese one s-imilarly. The chinese form gave to influence on the EONJIN MEURI·POON-GI-MYEONG MEURI·JJO-CJIN MEURI·MOOK-EUN GOONG-BAL MEURI·OL-LIN MEURI·SSANGSANG-TU ME-URI be drawn wall painting in the KOKUR-YU. And a gold chignon accesso-ry unearthed in a MOO-RYOUNG royal mausoleum is proof of the korean attrire be changed with chinese. In the shilla dynasty at three years after Cjin-Deuk(A.D. 649) reign. It was recorded that the dynasty let women wear the form of chinese attire. Also in the koryo dyn-asty, a rod-like hairpin (BIN-YEU) and DANG-GI employing EON-JIN MEURI was used. The SOO-BAL based on the Confucianism had lots of regulations which limited to use ornaments with classes of society in the CHOSUN dynasty. Until YOUNG CHO and CHUNG CHO period. EONJIN MEURI be decorated GACHAE was announced by dynasty as ind-ulging in luxury. Women of yangban used a rod-like hairpin and a chignon accessory made by jewerly. And 1-owly women weared a rod-like hairpin made of born and wood to perfom EONJIN MEURI with PUNCHAE. Most unmarried women decorated with DDA-AH-NEULIN MEURI, GUI-MIT MEURI, specially in palace with SAE-ANG MEURI. At palace, one put on a full dress with KEUN MEURI, and a simple dress with ER-YEO MEURI be decorated DDERL-JAM The CHOP-JI MEURI manifested social rank, class. Kids at CHO-SUN age had BA-DUK-PANMEURI and JONG-JONG MEURI. The ornament things are GACHE, DDERL JAM with EON-JIN M-EURI, and all kinds of rod-like hairpin and chignon accessory used in JJOK MEURI. IN DANGGE, JE-BI-BURI DANGGI used by ummarried women. DO-TOO-RAK DANGGI and AP DANGGI on a dress suit, and BE-SSI DANGGI used by 3∼4 years ungrown kids etc. were used. And at palace, kinds of CHUPJI used with JJOK MEURI showed social rank. In CHOSUN age, women want to keep shiny hair washed at TA-NO festival day, a treatment of bald hair used a forked remedy. In CHOSUN age, woman Soo-Bal hair style has DAE-SOO·DDEU-KOO-JI MEURI·CHO-P-GI MEURI·EON-JIN MEURI·SAE-ANG MEURI· and so on. We could find out Soo-Bal was developed very well by these variety hair styles. I attatched all of the hair style pictures step by step, and also explained detail my research foll owing these pictures.
The Effects of Body-Cathexis on Clothing Preferences
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 107~116
A Study on Fashion Textile Trend and Characteristics in the 1980s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 117~138
This study can be divied into three major sections: 1. Background on the 1980s : The 1980s can be characterized as a era of rising expectations over the quality of life. Interest in art, history, culture, and new technology increased to appeal to a greater audience. In fashion, these changes led to greater focus on quality and unique stylishness as fashion represented a medium through which luxury and refined tastes could be expressed. 2. Textile Trends of the 80s Divided into 4 Periods : The period of 1980-82 saw the mixture of natural lines with constructive lines. The textiles used in fashions in this period can be characterized by natural materials, mannish materials of the 1950s, feminine materials of the 1920s and 30s, and spoty materials of the 1960s. The period of 1983-85 was an avante garde period which used rustic avante-garde materials and art craft materials. The period of 1986-87 can be described as minimalistic and neo-classical which incorporated materials which represents a metropolitan feel, retro decorative materials and sporty, futuristic mat-erials. Lastly, the period of 1988-89 produced ethnic and natural fashions which relied on traditional British materials, country elegant and innocent look fabrics, ethinic and ecology-minded materials, in addition to comfortable and sports casual materials. 3. Characteristrics and methods of expression for textiles in the 1980s, : In the 1980s, the development of textiles have can be divided into 4 distinct patterns: decorative materials, sporty materials. In generals textiles have increased in their decorative nature-especially decoration by texure. Textile have also incorporated the mixture of contrasting themes in order to create new fabrics.
Folk Costume on Acculturation Phenomenon-Focused on Spain and Latin America-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 139~152
The purpose of this study is to consider what influences the Spanish folk costumes had on the ones of Latin America on Acculturation Phenomenon during Spanish reign over Latin America. As a method of doing this, the researcher compared and analyzed the style of dress such as color, material, design and accessories of Spanish folk costumes and the ones of Latin America, classifying them by male costumes and female ones respectively, by studying reference books, literature, and photographs related to the folk costumes and visiting this areas. The results of the study were summarized as follows; First, we can find out Spanish folk costumes were accepted to the folk costumes of Latin America just as it were. Second, Spainish folk costumes have been developed to be suitable for the climatic, geographical cultural characteristics of Latin America. Third, the folk costumes of Latin America become much simpler by the influence of Spainish culture. Fourth, as a result of cultural contact, mixture with Spainish culture, native folk costumes of Latin America had more various style. In conclusion, Spanish government over Latin America had given a cultural homogeneousness and colonial culture of Spain and traditional culture of Latin America have been mixed and created the present unique folk costumes of Latin America. Therefore good understanding and use of the sense of beauty of folk clothes of Latin America influenced by Spain culture will be helpful to enlarge creativeness of design of modern fashion.
A Study on the Anti-Fashion Expressed in the Korean Student Movement
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 153~168
The purpose of this study is to examine, specifically, the external and internal characteristics of anti-fashion expression in the Korean student movement after the 1945 Liberation. The dress expressed in the student movement represented the purity of student and characterized resistance, and this character expressed strongly in 80s, faded from middle of 90s. Until the 60s, the student movement was not characterized by, so activist students wore dress and suits. It symbolized students as an elite group of society. They added on head-bands to express resistance. In the 70s, activist students wore school uniforms, school military training wear, blue jeans and loose shirts in demonstrations. They tried to express re-bellion against the government and the older gen-eration. In the 80s, the period was remarkably distingusihing by the economic growth at that time. Activist students wore T-shirts with Korean letters and popular paintings specially made, Korean costumes, wrapped in the Taggeuki (Korean national flag), and refused wear on jeans because of anti-Americanism. They also wore masks, muffled their faces, and got their heads shaved. These anti-fashions are very strong expressions for the national independence spirit, national traditional heitage, anti-foreign power and anti-American. In the early 90s, activist students wore reformed Korean costumes specially made group uniforms, after that they wore casual everyday clothes with caps. They tried to express remarkable resistance in the early 90s, but after the mid-90s expression of resistance weakened and faded, so there was no distinction between activist and non-activist. There are the reasons why the student movement changed after the peaceful transfer of political power.
A Study on Tartan of Scotland Expressed between the Nineteenth And the Twentieth Century Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 169~183
The Tartan, the representative check pattern and traditional costume of Scothand, is the most popualr checker which has inherited from the clans of the Scotch Highlands in the ancient times and continued to develop. It is a symbol of the Scotch culture and tadition and widely used in various ways according to status, birthplace purpose and use. Therefore, this study was intended to inquire into Tartan check. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Tartan check. the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined works. By doing so, this study attempted to investigate the phase of the Tartan check in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th-Century fashion. In addition it, attempted to investigate the features of Scottch costume unknown in our academic circles and inquire into the proless in while the Scottch has retained the originality of its own which suppressed by neighboring countries. This study could find out that the checker is the element of infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the checker will be presented by many Korean designer through the overall and systanatic study of the checker. On the other hand, to make an empirical study costume of other races, a comprehensive examination should be made of the social and cultural background against which locals are using their costume, through the survey of their real costume and on-spot research. It this respect, this study has some limitation in time and data collection. Besides the analysis of costume through materials and photos in museums as well as the study of cloth material and accurate colors was not con여cted in this in this study. This will remain to be study of in the future.
A Study on the Method and Work Measurement for Productivity Improvement of Clothing Products-With concentration in MTM Analysis-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 185~206
The purpose of this study was to improve productivity for maximum effects with the present equipments and staff. This study compared and analyzed the mea-sured time by using stop watch method and MTM, which was the new measuring method. The flow and results of this study were as follows: 1. This study investigated the theoretical background the efficiency for production management, and the way of productivity improvement through documentary research. 2. Setting up the standard flow on the experi-mental company production, making out a process chart and measuring the actual working hour. 3. The study measured the allowance time applying work sampling. 4. Each process of the movement analysis was filmed by video to use basic data. 5. MTM analysis was taken by choosing 10 processes from front bodice according to the basic movement of MTM. Through the results, this study exclude unneccesary movements and suggest a method for working ways. 6. Using the actual working hour measured by a stop watch calculated the pitch time and presumed the amount of daily productivity. 7. The result of the work sampling came out as 38% of allowance rate. It was 13% higher than the standard amount of woman's jacket allowance rate, which was 25%. The most influencing factor was work discussion. That was because there were commuication problem of the work way between the operator and leader. More adequate use of flow table and level passing table was needed. There were the problems that inappropriate places and sizes made the distance of movements longer and often needed more adjustment of works and surroundings. To prevent breakdowns equipments check ups were necessary before works. 8. The results of MTM analysis were as follow : the time was reduced 40% than the actual measured time by a stop watch. This was because the leveling of the operator was included in the real calculation. Also, leveling was included in MTM analysis and all the conditions were standarized. Therefore MTM method was a scientidic measuring way of establishing the standard time. The presented method of this study, suggested an ideal method eliminating unneccesary motions, and presented standardization of works. Improvement of working methods, work condition and simplifying motions in each 10 processes reduced the working time from total 656 seconds to 301 seconds. 9. The way and time of working was linked together in the MTM analysis methods. Thus data from MTM help suggest not only establishing standard time but also establishing stan-dard work. Plus it includes various ability for improvements of working ways. So it is an objective method which can be widely used in other work studies. 10. The function of a time study is to determine the amount of work produced with a given method. The work rate is used to establish the cost of labor. The wage of worker must be calculated per unit time which is deter-mined before the time study is made. This study tried to introduce the incentive rule for deciding wages according to the standard time by MTM method.
The Image of Black Expressed in Western Dress-From Renaissance to 19C-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 41, 1998, Pages 207~223
The purpose of this study is to abstract the image from black dress, which has been favored by many people regardless of the times and examine it throughout the history of drss and thereby clearly define the images that black limplies in dress. Color image is a visual symbol, an image that forms through a combination of visual stimulus created by color, coupled with all the external factors related to it. Black is a one-dimensional color, of which the impact is subjective to its energy, which depends on light reflected on the object, and its texture. Therefore, black projects different images, depending on its surroundings. In general, black has had negative connotations in the Western culture. In dress, however, it has implied other various images different from the general negative ones. By combining general images of black and those exprssed in dress, major images of black were categorized into dignity, elegance, eroticism, asceticism and tragedy. Dignity is a category similar to the sublime. Dress with dignity has sharp contours and is generally made of velvet or silk which can be characterized by their splendor and voluminous-ness, exaggerating the body of a person wearing it. Such costume is mostly found in powerful countries in history such as Burgundy Court in the 15C, Spain in the 16C. Netherlands in the 17C. Elegance evokes grace and beautifulness. It includes elegance, grace, beauty and dandyism as subcategories or silk. Good examples are dandies' black costume and Ladies black and white dressees in the 19C. Eroticism is an image which expresses sexual attractiveness. Costume with eroticism is made of velvet or silk, which project sumptuousness through reflection. Such costumes expose parts of the body or are tightly tailored in order to emphasizes body contours. Asceticism means restraint from physical and mental desires. Costume with asceticism makes a person wearing it look smaller by covering the whole body. Puritan's black dresses and Bourgeoisie's black suit are good examples. Tragedy is anguish. sorrow. Black costume with grievous feelings such as mourning dresses is made of lusterless textile concealing most of the body except for the face.