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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 49 - Dec 1999
Volume 48 - Nov 1999
Volume 47 - Sep 1999
Volume 46 - Aug 1999
Volume 45 - Jul 1999
Volume 44 - May 1999
Volume 43 - Mar 1999
Volume 42 - Feb 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on Inculturated Modes of the Religious Habite for Women Religious Congregation of the Korean Catholic Church.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 5~24
The purpose of this study is to present new design for religious habits which represen traditional Korean characters as well as prope charisms of religious congregations. The preliminary research was carried out through questionnaires. The result of this survey suggests the way how to improve the design of habits as follows: 1. The habit has to be simple according to the spirit of vowed poverty. 2. It is necessary to take into consideration the reality of Korean culture and the climate with four seasons 3. The habit is to be of help to give witness to evangelical life and safeguard the dignity of the religious state. 4. It has to be appropriate to the environment and circumstance of apostolic mission. 5. It has be funtional and conducive to apostolic activities and labors. 6. The design has to be such as will not alienate ordinary people. 7. It should express the charism of each religiou congregation as well as Korean identity. Consquently four types of inculturated habit design were newly developed and actual dresses or suit have been manufactured as a apart of this study.
A Study on Cho-pi
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 25~42
This study aims to prove that the fact that minority races in the north-eastern region contributed sable skin to the Quing Dynasty might be related to Cho-Sun of King Muryong in the Warring states period because documents are available here and there. The Chinese had been using fur clothing since ancient times but we cannot find any mention that they had used sable skin. This fact shows that sable skin was not widely used because of its rarity. Cho-pi had been used in making costume on a large scale from the period of the Han Dynasty to the end of the Quing Dynasty. Cho-pi was very rare and it was used as a measure of bartering. China met the demand of cho-pi by the Cho-pi contributions of the frontier minority races. It might bwe that the high demand of Cho-pi in the Quing Dynasty forced minority races to contribute Cho-pi The documents concerning Cho-pi in the north-eastern region are of great importance not only to the history of costume but also to the history of ancient economy and national culture.
A Study of the Effective Factors on the Consumer's Adoption of Casulal Hanbok. -Focused on the Perceived Risk and Product Expressive Self-Image-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 43~58
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of perceived risk and product express-ive self-image on the consumer's adoption of casua hanbok. A questionnaire was developed and data colle-cted from 269 women in Pusan. Data were analyzed to investigate the relation-ship among purchase intention perceived risk and product epressive self-image. Marketing implication about risk reduction was discussed. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Consumer's perceived risk on adoption o casual hanbok classified into four factors They were the risk on the confirmation of advantage of casual hanbok the risk on the negative viewpoint of others the risk on the complexity of dressing and care and the risk on the shortcoming of casual hanbok. It was explained that casual hanbok is innovative product. 2. According to the level of adoption of casual hanbok. consumers were categorized into three groups i.e. adopter potential adopter rejector. They differed in the degree of risk perception age and subjective knowledge redlated to casual hanbok. 3. Consumer's subjective knowledge age and two types of risk has predicting power to the purchase intention. Consumer's subjective knowledge was the best predicted factor and risk perception was negatively related to purchase intention. 4. The significant differences among the categ-orized consumer group was founded in the ideal self image and product expressive self-image 5. The gap of perception between ideal self-image and product expressive self-image was significantly different in each categorized consumer groups.
A Study on Color Preference of Children's Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 59~68
The purpose of this study is to survey the color preference of mothers for the clothing of their children whose clothing is usually chosen by their mothers. The survey was performed by showing 60 color samples to provide the useful data for the fashion color planning. The result of this study shows that the prefe-rences in hue and tone are different mainly by season. The most preferred colors are yellow for boys and pink for girls in spring white in summer-beige in fall and black in winter. The most preferred tones for boys are pale in spring and summer dull in fall and dark in winter For girls light tone is most preferred in spring and pale in summer bright in fall and dark in winter Analysis of tone preferences in 6 colors shows that bright and clear are commonly preferred tones for children's clothing. Pale light vivid tones of yellow green and blue are preferred for girls and boys. Dark purple is preferred in fall and winter while pale tone is preferred in spring and summer. Red is preferred for girls especially in pale bright vivid tones while dark grayish and deep tones are preferred for boys in fall and winter.
A Study on Mannerism Style Experessed In The Late Renaissance Court Dress
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 69~90
Mannerism style evolved from the Renaissance style adopting the concept of grace as the ideal beauty, Having its ground on Neoplatonism the main goal of mannerism art was the realization of the invisible beauty over reality. Mannerism style in dress flourished in the sixteenth century court society, when courtly manners and courtly grace became the most important qualities in social relationship. Courtiers thought that courtly grace the ideal of beauty could be realized in the cultured and studied elegance. Mannerism style in dress evolved from the process of transforming and manipulating the Renaissance look for the abstract of beauty. The clothes of Mannerism style were against the natural movement of the human body. There was a tendency of refining and polishing the whole clothing and various technical skills were experim-ented on the mannerism style. The outstanding elements of this tendency can be found in the details like ruffs fathingale padding slashing puffing and etc. Mannerism intended to reconstruct the human body artificially to express courtly grace and novelty. During that process the new pose 'figura serpentinata' which is bizarre convoluted pose with full of flexibility was created. The expression of human body became more slender with elongated legs a torso with a long neck and a tiny head. This tendency of distorting the natural body forms were reflected in the formal characteristics of Mannerism dress style which is geometrical abstr-action unnatural elongation complex disposition and control with perfect ease.
The Complaining Behavior Process after Purchase of the Women's Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 91~112
This study mainly focuses on the dissatisfaction of the post-purchase behavior regarding the consumer dissatisfaction complaining behavior and repurchase intention In the literature study approach it was hypothe-sized that dissatisfaction variables was consisted of the cognitive process and emotion. And the dissatisfaction variables and the individual vari-ables and situational variables were set up to contribute to form the complaining behavior. In the process of the complaining behavior the first thing the consumers would do when they would seek for redress or not. Consumers who sought redress and actually received the fair treatment from a store practiced positive word-of-mouth. However consumers who received unfair treat-ment practived negative word-of-mouth exit behavior or the third party complaining Behavior. And consumers who did not seek any redress either showed exit behavior practiced negative word-of-mouth or no complaining behavior at all. Therefore. complaining behavior process consists of redress seeking process and non-redress seeking process. For the empirical study the survey method was used and two other researches were previously conducted. First of all the research was designed to comprehend consumer complaining behaviors process Secondly it was conducted for measuring validity and reliability: Cronbach's q. The sqmple was 569 women aged 2-'s to 5-'s living in Seoul and other suburban areas. The various methods were used to analyze the date such as frequency, percentage and multiple regression analysis. Overall the results were verified. 1) The dissatisfaction variables and individual variables influenced situational variables. 2) The complaining behavior intention was affected by dissatisfaction variables indivi-dual variables and situational variables. 3) The repurchase intention occurred more when the justice was performed Consequently the complaining behavior proce-dure was consisted of the redress seeking and non-redress seeking. And dissatisfaction vari-ables and individual variables were verified to influnce situational variables. These complaining behavior variables affected complaining behavior Especially in a case of redress seeking process complaining behavior and repurchase rate were highly affected by the perceived justice from a store.
Differences in Preference of Advertisement and intention to Buy the Advertised jeans among consumer Groups which perceived Eroticism and Attraction of Female Model in Fashion Advertising Differently
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 113~126
The purpose of this study was to identify the differences n preference of advertisement and intention to buy the advertised jeans among the consumer groups which perceived eroticism and attraction of female model in advertising differently. he data were collected using questio-nnaires which contained eleven advertisements of Guess jeans selected form Vogue magazine publ-ished from 1990 to 1996. Female college students (n=270) living in Seoul Korea participated in the study. The data were analyzed by one-way ANOVA. he results of this study were as follows:First there were significant differences in preference of advertisement and intentio to buy the advertised jeans among the consumer groups which had different perceptions of eroticism and attraction of model in the case of eleven advert-isements. Second consumer group which perceived model erotic and attractive highly had the most preference of advertisement and intention to buy the advertised jeans, However consumer group which perceived model low in two aspects had the lowest preference and intention to buy. Third consumer group which perceived model a low erotic but highly attractive women had a higher preference of advertisement and intention to buy the advertised jeans than consumer gorup which perceived model a highly erotic but low attractive women or the former group was similar in prefe-rence and intention to buy to the latter group.
A Basic Study on Establishing the Standard Size for hanbok -Concentrating on Women in Their 20's-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 127~136
This study purport to establish the size was flexibly receptive to consumers. Sample size was 6555 women in their 20's and 29 variables from the diret anthropometric data were applied to analyze. The preliminary survey was taken from Febraury 10. 1997 to May 23 1997 and the measurement was done from April 14, 1997 to June 10. 1997. Follwing the KS regulations Hanbok were given 3cm intervals each for the bust and hip girth and cm for th height. Size system was presented for the usage of developing the pattern of hanbok by analyzing the result of the regression coefficient and referring to the distribution chart of the back length and the neck to ulnar styloid length. When establishing the standard size for the ready-made Hanbok like Western style clothes it's convenient for both consumer and producer to present both bust girth and height. To enhance the fitting of Chogori we used the flatness ratio of bust as the reference for grouping styles of body. in the case of Chima-\ulcorner해갸 4 brackets are developed. First step was bust girth 78cm height 15cm second was bust girth 5852cm5 height 160cm third was bust girth 82cm height 165cm fourth was bust girth 88cm height 16cm.
British street style as an orginal text of subculture fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 137~162
The purpose of this thesis was twofold. First it explains the emergence of street styles and their inner meanings from its origin subculture group practices. Recent developments in cultural studies which approach cultural practices in a holistic way by incorporating socio-economic background offers us the concept of 'hegemonic relation' it explains why subcultural practices and street style in particular has weakened from 19080s as well as why in the post-subculture period we observe the 'superma-rketization' of styles and plethora of eclecticism instead of original ones. Street styles as a magical expression or resolution of socio-economic frustrations are anticipated to weaken significantly if not totally disappear in the post-modern era although it has become the original texts of high fashion.
Analysis on Torso Somatotype of Adult Females by Tight Fitting Technique
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 163~172
The purpose of this study is to classify the types of torso of adult females using the tight fitting technique and pattern development figure. The subjects are 106 females of 19 to 24 years old. 59 different items are measured from body surface development and analyzed by factor analysis and cluster analysis. The results are as follows; 1. Eight somatotype factors are obtained through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax Factor 1 is the length of upper body factor 2 the length of lower body factor 3 the circumference and width of the back of upper body factor 4 the circumference and width of front torso factor 5 the dart type of the back of upper body factor 6 the size of the back neck factor 7 the type of the front shoulder and factor 8 the size of the back arm hole. 2. As a result of cluster analysis the somatotype of torso is classified into 5 types. Type 1 is normal in length circumference and width of upper body. Type 2 is shortest length circumference and width of torso. Type 3 is long in length circumference and width of torso. Type 4 is normal length and short in circumference and width especially short in bust circumference. Type 5 is longest in length circumference and width of torso.
A Study on the Chosun Dynasty's Fabrics Found in the Buddhist Statues(II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 173~186
the object of this thesis is to find out the Chosun Dynasty's Fabrics of 17th century which founded in the buddhist statutes. The total 43 pieces of fabrics can be classified chronologically as follows; 14 pieces in the year of 1641, 18 pieces of 1679, and 12 pieces of 1701, These fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 25 plain weaved 8 twill weaved and 5 pieces of satine weaved. I could confirmed the width of fabrics are 38cm and 38.5cm through these fabrics. Because of the fabrics were composed of mainly plain weaved silk Chu. There weren't many fabrics with motif. The fabrics within the buddhist statues have their own meaning.
A Study on the Internal Significance of mexican Muralism Expressed in the Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 187~205
The purpose of this study is to research into a meaning of Mexican Mural and to clarify on the internal significance of Muralism in the modern fashion. Nuralism is an example of the brith of the great people's art. The mural Fine art in mexico was the peculiar fine art campaign which observed the social function. And the mural of Mexican that the ideology and fine art combined came to occupy the unprecedented important position as a part of popular education which is the product of Mexico revolution. Thus in this study considered that the background of Mexican Mural in 1930's resembled the social and cultural background of the latter half of 20th century. The internal significance of Muralism expressed in the modern fashion was categorized as attaching importance to human the pursuit of the utopia the tendency to nationalism Satriric and moral painting. First Attaching importance to human in the modern fashion expressed the recovery of humanity by meaning in opposition to moral crisis of the human in the pluralistic society. Second The pursuit of the utopia in terms of interest the ideal way in the modern fashion expressed mysterious or hopeful through using religious colors motivies etc. Third The tendency to nationalism in the modern fashion expressed the painting of the masses in forms of mixing aboriginal culture elements and memorial elements. Fourth Satiric and moral painting in the modern fashion expressed wits or humorous style through using geometrical motives and light colors etc, indirectly expressed distress of modern men.
A Study of Similarity between hair Styles of Chosun and france at the End of Eighteenth century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 207~222
This study is a thesis based on the fact that at the end of eighteenth century similar change in hair style appeared in Chosun and France which are located very far almost the opposite side of the earth. We can see that very exaggerated and big hair styles of those days in both countries became exceptionally reduced and changed to practical shapes through (an order prohibiting to make large hair style using wigs) is case of Chosun and through the France Revolution in case of France. Outwardly the abobe mentioned change may seem to be caused by such brave and outward convention as the prohibition order and the revolution. however I think that more basic cause of such change from big and splendid hair styles of those days to simple styles was because of many people's sympathy with the necessity of improving various social and economical problems caused by the luxurious and even prodigal situation of those days before the change and additionally because of such pragmatic thought as Positivism of chosun and illuminism of france. In case of france the change in hair style occurred for such a short period of time around the France Revolution(1789) that we can even that the change occurred in a day. However in case of Chosun such change became fixed at the time of king Suncho prohibiting to make large hair style using wigs (1756-1788) was announced. in case of France such change in hair style was mainly because of change of thought caused by people's self-consciousness. But in case of Chosun under the situation where common people's way of thinking about sumptuous moods and beauty was not changed unvoluntary and compulsory change was asked by the King's order so a lot of time seemed to have been necessary for the change in hair style to become fixed as a nationwide common and general custom.
Easing Contraction for Three-dimensional construction of Sleeve
Lee, Myung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 223~230
Dressmaking which is defined as the process of changing two-dimensional cloth into three-dime-nsional clothes needs a lot of joining parts. Particularly sleeve needs a more curved surface than other joining parts owing to shape of the top of arms. Easing is used to control the fullness along the seam-line to create the fullness curved shape of the sleeves and it plays an important role in increasing three-dimensional constru-ction power. unfortunately sufficient data regarding effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve are not available. Therefore the author tried to investigate the effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing contraction made by different angles on the sleeve cap curve line previous work were examined and the effective easing conditions according to the variation of angles were determined. This study contains the following objectives. Firstly to obtain the easing contraction ratio in sleeve according to the above easing conditions. Secondly to investigate the three-dimensional construction power or sleeve by the factors of easing contraction. Thirdly to determine for each sleeve the effective easing conditions on the basis of the calcuative easing contraction ratio in the sleeve patterns by cap heights.
A Study on the Clothing Involvement and Brand Loyalty(The Case of Male and Female College Students)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 42, 1999, Pages 231~242
The purpose of this study was to classified the dimension of clothing involvement and the clothing loyalty of 256 male and 271 female college students in Taegu area. data was analyzed by frequency percentage mean factor analysis reliability test validity test correlation and ANOVA by using SPSS/pc. The results of this study were as follows; 1. the dimension of clothing involvement was classified into four factors such as clothing interest dimension clothing symbolism dimension clothing economics dimension and clothing individuality dimension. 2. In the relationship between brand loyalty and four factors of clothing involvement there was positive appearance involvement there was positive appearance in clothing interest clothing symbolism and clothing individuality with brand loyalty but negative appearance in clothing economics. The correlation between clothing interest dimension and clothing symbolism dimension clothing interest dimension and clothing individuality dimension clothing symbolism dimension and clothing economics dimension clothing symbolism dimension and clothing individuality dimension was positive. And there was no relation between clothing economics dimension and clothing individuality dimension clothing economics dimension and clothing interest dimension. 3. According to individual character females than males the group aged 18 to 20 and 24 to 27 than the group aged 21 to 23 showed more active tendency to the clothing involvement dimension and also highertendency to brand loyalty. The students with a major in humanities science than the students with a major in natural science and more expending consumers on clothes showed more active tendency to the clothing symbolism dimension and higher tendency to brand loyalty. 4. On the whole the attitude of consumers on clothes was very high in the clothing interest dimension common in the clothing individuality dimension and very low in the clothing economics dimension.