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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 49 - Dec 1999
Volume 48 - Nov 1999
Volume 47 - Sep 1999
Volume 46 - Aug 1999
Volume 45 - Jul 1999
Volume 44 - May 1999
Volume 43 - Mar 1999
Volume 42 - Feb 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study on Color Preference of Children's Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 5~14
The purpose of this study is to survey the color preference of mothers for the clothing of their children whose clothing is usually chosen by their mothers. The survey was performed by showing 60 color samples to provide the fashion color planning. The result of this study shows that the prefe-rences in hue and tone are different mainly by season. The most preferred colors are yellow for boys and pink for girls in spring white in summer beige in fall and black in winter. The most preferred tones for boys are pale in spring and summer dull in fall and dark in winter. For girls light tone is most preferred in spring and pale in summer bright in fall and dark in winter. Analysis of tone preferences in 6 colors shows that bright and clear are commonly preferred tones for children's clothing. pale light vivid tones of yellow green and blue are preferred for girls and boys. Dark purple is preferred in fall and winter while pale tone is preferred in spring and summer. Red is preferred for girls especially in pale bright vivid tones while dark grayish and deep tones are preferred for boys in fall and winter.
A Study on the Korean Po(袍) and Japanese kosode(小袖)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 15~30
The Kosode(小袖) which is a traditional Japanese outfit with a narrower sleeve than the Kimono was worn under the court dress. Korean who first immigrated to Japan wore the Po(袍: the Korean clothes of the time) and introduced the outfit to the japanese people who adopted and integrated it into their daily wear. This outfit was labelled the Kosode(小袖) during the 13th century. The Kosode(小袖) eventually developed throughout centuries into today's Kimono. 기본포(基本袍). Kibonpo(Traditional Korean Basic Outfit), 袍형기본포. Mekibonpo(Traditional korean Outfit with Round Sleeves) 통수포 Tongsupo(Outfit with Narrow Sleeves) 고소데(小袖).Kosode(Traditional Japanese Outifit with narrow Sleeves) 후리소데(振袖). Furisode (Traditional Japanese Outfit with fluttering Sleeves)
The Research on the Figures and Colors of the Korean Folk Clothes - Focus on 1997 -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 31~40
This purpose of present study was to examine the figures and colors of hanbok textile. The data were collected from 489 pieces selling at hanbok shops in Taegu pusan and were analysed. Result of this study was as follows: 1) Figures As the hanbok figures tradition figures were used a great many among the figures. The next was natural geometric abstract figures. The reactionism trend was worthy of notice in figures and traditional design occupied most of them. 2) Color In the hue, YR, R, RP group were used concentratedly. Because 5,6,7 level were used a great many among the value value was represented lightly more than midium light. Because 2,3,4 level were used a great many among the chroma chroma was represented duller than midium chroma. Thus hanbok color was used mainly in a several party and korean were tendancy to like natural the sence of color.
A Study on the Transperancy expressed in Current Fashion(I) - In the Context of Ideal Effect-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 41~52
This study is to compare and analyze two types of 'transparency' concept expressed in architecture and garment which has not only been an important theme in the post-modern expression of architeture but been shown in various types of concept. This study examined the characteristics of transparency and through theoretical studies divided them into four types; frankness(purity ambiguity comparison exposure and eroticism) Purity building would use the matrial which is transparent glasses for the expprssion of its purity and clothing would use the transparent matrial for the expression of the natural beauty of human body and the purity of human of itself. Ambiguity is expressed in the outer side of architecture by duplicating transparent materials and by phenomenon of optical illusion and inflection. On the contrary in garment it is shown in the outward formation of underclothing. Comparison in architecture is expressed by the use of void but opaque materials as well as solid but transparent materials. Extinction is expressed with the visual effect of context of the surrounding by the use of opaque glass and reflexive glass. In garment the effect of comparison is expressed by the use of mixing transparent materials and opaque materials. Building would express the inside of itself by the way of its exposure and clothing would also express its frankness through the human body is partly opened or clossed at the same thime that arises from eroticism of the way of the expression of human feelings.
The Meaning of Water in Contemporary Fashion -Viewed as Human Desire-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 53~68
Water allows us to have artistic experiences of searching for the source of hints and techniques by bring about the emergence of the new representation new themes and new forms of arts. The water that holds a great deal of hidden meaning shape the image. This study attempted to investigate what mental relationship the concept of water had the mental phenomenon of water in hea-sang-kun-sun-do in terms of the event of contemporary fashion in the present-day age. This means the stream of thought to grope a new paradign of multi-cultruism that claims the coexistence of East and West civilizations in the contemporary civilization. The meaning of water is developed fabrics connected with the water and the water emerge the issue in contemporary fashion. And the concept of water as the meaning concept is used as the tool to represent a certain issue in silhouette and fabrics not only the introduction as substantial water into fashion giving the fashion designer's emotion to shape and representing the fashion designer's aesthetic needs by emphasizing with the designer.
A Study on the Adaptation of the Traditional Costume for Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 69~82
This study is focused on the aesthetic application of traditional Korean dress(Items) to the contemporary fashion design. The results are as follows: (1) Each traditional dresses have revealed their aesthetic characteristics according to the periods or time. (2) The dresses of certain period figures and items had been limited in use in fashion design today. (3) The most favoured dresses adapted in fashion design were Chosun costume and female top items were the most preferred in use. (4) The colors applied to the fashion design were also limited. The bright and strong color groups were the most popular colors among fashion designers for their works. White which stands for the image of korean and their dresses were also preferred in use. Therfore experts in various arena of fashion business have to keep in mind following problems:(1) They have to study traditional dresses to enhance their historic knowledges and appreciate their aesthetic beauties (2) Various kinds of dresses from many periods items should be tried to adapt in fashion design by the designers. (3) Various male attires also should be adapted in fashion design. (4) various methodologies are recommended to apply in fashion design (5) fashion moods should be examined to make the krean fashion design rich The plastic characteristics of Korean traditional dresses could be interpreted as a tunnel to show the esprit of Korean and the aesthetic of Korean dresses through the works of fashion design for the international fashion markets or societies.
A Study on Body Satisfaction and Wearing State of Foundation among Middle Aged Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 83~96
The Purpose of this study was to the basic informations about the wearing stagte according to body satisfaction of the middle aged women. For the research method the actual wearing state of the foundation and the degree of body satisfaction were checked by questionaire survey from 350 middle aged women and analyzed 280 sheets. The results were as follows: 1. At the body satisfaction survey the respondent reply lower score about the girth items especially abdominal girth. According to the body shape and age there were meaningful differences. 2. The actual wearing state of the foundation had meaningful differences according to the body shape and age. The most important was about the fit for their bodies. 3. The most important dissatisfaction was about the fit for their bodies. Also there was meaningful differences according to body shape and age. 4. for the result of the feelings of wearing the foundation the feelings of wearing the girdle were more inconvenient than the feelings of wearing the brassiere Also there were meaningful differences according to the body shape and age. older and obeser women feel more inconvenient.
A Study on the Expression of Clothing and Textiles Recorded in
-Focus on Colors and Dyeing-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 97~108
This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in
focus on Color and Dying.
is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.
A Market Oriented Study on the Wearing Attitude and Purechase Behavior of Jeans
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 109~124
This study was aimed to analyze consumer's wearing attitude and the purchase behavior of jeans and the jean manufacturer's marketing strategies. Subjects were 448 male and female in their teens twenties and thirties living in Seoul. Data were obtained by self-administered questions and analyzed by SAS package. The main findings of this research are as follows: factors of fashion pursuit famous brand pursuit sexual attraction pursuit practicality pursuit. 2. In analysis between jeans wearing attitude type of information source purchase behavior and demographic characteristics showed signicficant difference partially. 3. The most influential design of jeans purchase was a fitting factor. The consumers preferred low price shops in downtown and colledge area and department store because of it's variety of jean goods. So the market segmentation and the brand positioning method according to consumers' wearing attitude and purchase behavior should be concerned properly in maketing strategy design include product and advertising strategy.
The Effect of Extrinsinc Cues on the Clothing Products Evaluation
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 125~142
This research was aimed to present a model of clothing products evaluation nd to classify the effect of extrinsic cues on clothing products evaluation. In order to accomplish following subjects were established. First it is to find the effect of extrinsic cues -price brand store - on perceived quality perceived risk perceived value and purchase intention of clothing products. Second it is to formulate a model of clothing products evaluation and find the relation among the variables such as extrinsic cues perceived quality perceived risk perceived value and purchase intention. This research was mainly divided into theoretical and empirical part. In the theoretical part previous theories and studies on clothing products cues clothing products evaluation perceived quality perceived risk and perceived value were examined to establish a research model and to present a theoretical frame for clothing products evaluation. In the empirical research a questionnaire was developed and statistical data were collected from during July 1997. The subjects were 862 women in the age of 20-35 living in Seoul and kyungki region. SAS and LISREL were used to analyze the collected data. frequency percentage factor analysis ANOVA duncan test correlation analysis regression analysis and LISREL were applied. The results of this research are as follows: First perceived quality consists of performance quality external quality and utility quality in a form of multi dimensional structural. Perceived risk is structured by social/resultant risk financial/fashionable risk and performance/management risk. Second this research proved that extrinsic cues are influenced by each individual variable and extrinsic cues interact with each other through the variable. The perceived quality is influenced most by price Among the perceived risk social/resultant risk by brand financial/fashionable risk by price and performance/management risk by store. respectively. Perceived value is inflenced by price and brand. Third in evaluating process consumer use extrinsic cues to first formulate perceived quality and perceived risk of clothing products and then formulate perceived value ot decide on purchase intention.
A Study on the Folk Costume of Morocco
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 143~168
Morocco is a country located in the northwest of Africa. Its offcial name is Al Mamlata al Magherebia. This country abounds in natural resources from fishery forestry mining industry and manufacturing industry. However due to insufficient irrigation canals harvests are highly unstable at the mercy of precipitation. State religin is islam and few are Jewish or Christian, 1. Clothing: Muslim Arabians' clothes are simple and the clothes of the Berber who have primitive belief are splendid. Those ar good examples of religious influence on clothes. There are various colors and patterns in the clothes however solid color and stripes are the most commonly worn. Higher officials and the upper class wear in their representative color white including truburns and shoes. Represent- ative clothes in Morocco are jellaba kaftan and chalwar which are one- piece style dresses cut out in a straight line and worn by both men and women Selham ksa with which men cover their shoulders and drape and haik which is draped by women. Arabian women wear veils to hide their body face and hairs and are in simple sihouette on the othe hand the Berber are splendid with various ornaments. 2. Festibals and clothing: Traditional festivals in Morocco are customary events art exhibitions agricultural exhibitions traveling business events from religious origin birthday or deathday of the saints and so on, which delight the dweller on the road and they are called by various names. Costurmes for the festival have no special mode. They add various ornaments and gorgeous scarves to their ordinary traditional dress and they wear heavy makeups and tattoos,.3. Ornaments and accessories: People in Morocco think their ornaments as the symbol of their wealth. Therfore they hang huge chains of gold or silver attached with gold and silver ornaments such as Therfore they hang huge chains of gold or silver attached with gold and silver ornaments such as coins nielle and other jewels such as pearl coral amber seven treasures. ornaments they bring along when they marry are regarded as a dowry. moreover ornaments played a role as the mark of the tribe. Traditional shoes are yellow sleepers that have narrowed front, no hills and opened in the behind. In addition there are various types of shoes with many decorations. As for colors there are yellow red white and colorful ones
A Study on Clothing Buying Pattern of Korean High School Girls by their Self-concept
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 169~186
The objectives of the present study were to investigate the relationship between self-concept and clothing buying pattern in accordence with their self-concept. The method employed to conduct this study was normative-descriptive survey using questionnaires. Subjects were 438 high school girls in Seoul and the survery was implemented from the begining of May 1998 to the end of June 1998. The questionnaires were completed by students during class. Mean Standard Deviation Chi-Squeare and t-test were employed to analize the data gathered. The results are summarzed as follows: (1) The group who has the higher score in total positive self, self identity self satisfacton self behavior physcial self moral ethical self personal self and family self cares more about economical efficiency of clothing than the group who has the lower score. (2) The group who has the higher score in total positive self, self satisfaction personal self and family self attachs greater importance to the practical use of clothing than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. (3) The group who has the higher total positive self score cares originality more than the group who has the lower score when they purchase outdoor garment. (4) The group who has the lower social self score cares modesty and ostentation more than the group who scored higher in social self. (5) The group who has the higher score in positive self behavior personal self and family self cares about convenence in care and maintenance of the clothing than the group has the lower score. (6) Friends buying and use experiences of herself and the observation of other's attire are the main source of fashion information for the present Korean high school girls. The group who has the higher score in total positive self personal self family self, self identity self satisfactio self behavior used their own experiences more often as a source of fashion information than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. The group who has the higher score of total positive self personal self family self, self identity self satisfaction self behavior uses family members more often as a source of fashion information than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. The group who has the higher score in self identity and self behavior uses store displays more often than the group who scored lower. (7) Bonded processing goods stores or fancy goods shops(haberdashery) located in trendy shopping district discount stores and outlet stores of the famous manufactures are main places where Korean high school girls buy their outdoor garments. The group who has the higher score in social self, self identity and personal self uses department stores more often and rerely shops at bonded processing goods stores of fancy goods shops located in thendy shopping district compared to those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept.
Effect of Korean and Western Attire of Eldery Women and Perceiver's Age on Impression Formation
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 187~202
The objectives of this study were to analyze the effect of dress(Korean traditional dress and suit) of elderly Women and situation on impression formation. The experimental design was
factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli of color photographs of female in her 60's model and the semantic differential scale were used. Six variables of impression formation were used: preference: elegance: potency: activity: feminine: and modernity. Samples were 400 women 200 were in their twenties and 200 in their forties and fifties. The data were analyzed by
-reliability t-test ANOVA and duncan's multiple range test. The Korean traditional dress with the combination of Korean traditional color(light blue upper dress with dark red purple collar and string.dark blue skit) had the most positive effect on impression of elegance. Pink traditional dress and light blue traditional dress had a negative effect on impression of potency activity and modernity. Red purple suit had a positive effect on potency and modernity. The interaction between dress perceiver's age and stituation was significant for the impression of activity. Women in their 40's and 50's perceived the activity of red purple suit positively in the situation of alumnae meeting more than in the wedding ceremony. The perceived age of the stimulus person was different according to dresses. Traditional dresses was perceived older than suits were. Women in their 40's and 50's evaluated preferences of the dresses positively more than 20's did. This means that 40's and 50's feel similarity with the stimulus person more than 20's as the age of model was in their 60's The result supports the theory that similarity is basic factor in interpersonal attraction.
A Study on the Androgynous Phenomena in Contemporary Fashion from the Feminist's Viewpoint
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 203~224
As androgny presented by feminism still appear in contemporary fashion since mid 1980's feminism as a social phenomenon can be considered to habe influenced fashion history. This paper surveys the sex images of androgynous look that appeared in contemporary fashion into bisexual image and neutral images based on the feminist aspects of changes in contemporary fashion. As stated above bisexual images and neutral images of androgynous look shown in clothing are an attempt to reach one single integrated complete being by overacoming 'femininity' or 'masculinity' and combining the element of the two sexes. Consequently androgynous look creates new attraction by harmoniously coordinating characteristics of the two sexes instead of totally differentiating between masculinity and femininity that are represented in the form of clothing that has conceptual visual characteristics. Following are the conclusions of the reseach of this paper. First 'androgynous' as a feminist sex concept reflects the spirit of the times. Since the sex roles are divided and diversified and the concept of femininity is changing the concept of androgyny requiring both masculine and feminine characteristics in an essential sex concept for sucessful conduct of roles in a complex modern society. Second the integrated human image of androgynous look has led to a new culture with fashion trends that has been ahead of times by curing the functions of fashion to differentiate between men and women. Third androgynous look at the turn-of-the-centuy will not cease to exist but be a lasting fashion phenomenon while the sex concept presented by feminism has become the core to destrov the dichotomous fashion style of the 20th century. Fourth androgynous look is expressed in various manners in contemporary fashion since it shown how human beings accipt the adaptation method desperately required by the contemporary times. Androgynous look can be viewd as the desire for ultimate freedom that can be acquired by destroying the dichotomous sex concept and as the will to become a subject of the world as integrated human being. As we look into fashion culture creation of fashion is not the result of an accidental cause or an individual's work but the reflection of the spirit of the times. In this sense androgynous look introduced by a new sex concept to contemporary fashion has reflected the spirit of the times and led the cultural atmosphere and moreover it is an important fashion style that can characterize the contemporary times while lasting in the future.
The Beauty of Korean Costume in Hyo-Suk's Works
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 225~242
Generally people and their lives are the basic object of literary works. Although each literary work possesses a different degree of significance depending upon the author's intention the description of costume becomes an indispensable factor in the formation of characters and the social background. In this paper the types of men's and women's clothing in fashion from 1895 to 1942 are studied fior the purpose of understanding the correlation between hyo-Suk's description of the attire and the vogue of the time. Consequently it was clarified that his descriptions of costume have an analogy with the fashion during the era. Especially this study ascertains that the beauty of costume as a formative art emphasizes the altered inherited and developing traditional Korean beauty influenced by exoticism. In conclusion the aesthetic consciousness of Hyo-Suk Lee tells us clearly that the beauty of Korea is the universal beauty apprecialted regardless of place and time. Such an aestheitic consciousness is not rigid but continously transforming. his literarywork clearly shows a new aesthetic categry formed by combination of traditonal Korean beauty and the aesthetic consciousness of exoticism.
A Study of CHOK-DU-RI
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 243~258
This is a study of CHOK-DU-RI(族頭里) a black crown-like headpiece worn by woman on formal occasion in Chosun Dynasty and has succeeded until now. CHOK-DU-RI was originated by BOKTAK worn by Mongolian noblewomen and inflowed to the last period of Koryo dynasty under occupation of Yuan. The documentary records of O-JU-YON-MUN-CHSNG-JON-SAN-KO( by Lee Kyu-kung CHUNG-JANG-KWAN-JON-SUH by Lee Tock-mu and KO-SA-TONG by choe Nam-sun verify CHOK-DU-RI is a custom of mongolian fusion that was affected by KO-KO of Yuan and was formed. Ko-Ko is the same as BOKTAK. It is assumed KO-KO is a borrowed name as its transcription varies. The name was given according to its appearance which is certified by the record CHANGCHUN-CHIN-IN-SEO-BANG-YU-RAM-KI. It says that it can be simply named KO-KO as its edge is alike ad goose or a duck. In addition KO-Ko was called CHOGTAI in case of being added a camel fur that is JUGDUR. CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI which of being added a camel fur that is JUGDUR, CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI which provd CHOK-DU-RI was originated in Mongol. The shape of BOKTAK is very high and wided toward the top with the top with the angle getting more pointed and a feather stuck on the side. But its height got lower and its size smaller as it did gradually Koreanized to a CHOK-DU-RI. The use of CHOK-DU-RI has been settled since the last period of Chosun Dynasty. It came to stay as a popular custom when King Young-jo and Jong-jo wanting to do away with the corrupt practice of KA-CHE encouraged women at that time to do their hairs with CHOK-DU-RI instead of KA-CHE. It is as follows the classification of CHOK-DU-RI. First classified by a use group is divided into ceremonial use such as the seven treasures CHOK-DU-RI and jeweled CHOK-DU-RI. Hereby it is assumed that CHOK-DU-RI was used regardless of fortune. Secondly it varies by its type of frame. There are SOM CHOK-DU-RI OHT CHOK-DU-RI and O-YOM CHOK-DU-RI a kind of SOM CHOK-DU-Ri formed a base of O-YOM-MO-RI. The third group by jeweling has WHE-BONG CHOK-DU-RI and TA-BONG-CHOK-DU-RI JEwele CHOk-DU-RI can be still seen being commercially lent and worn by the brides at nuptical ceremonies performed in tradition of fashion and when worn bya bride as she gives her parents to her parents-in-law.
A Study on the Orientalism Expressed in the Fashion of 1990's
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 259~282
To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.
A Study on the Costume Reformation of Bei-Wei(北魏) Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 43, 1999, Pages 283~298
Bei-Wei(北魏) arose from Ta-ba clan(拓拔氏), a race belonging to Xian-bei(삼배) and it was the first foreign dynasty that reigned the central area of China in A.D 386-534. Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝) found it necessary to adopt the ruling mechanism of Han race's 'Sino-centralism' so as to establish orthodoxy of Xian-bei dynasty. He ordered Xian-bei people to channge their own costume for the costume of Han race. Costume was one of ruling means in Xiao-wen-di's case. However the revolutionary policy of Sinonizatio by Xiao-wen-di brought abuot serious conflicts and confrontations among classes of Xian-bei Xiao-bei wore their own costume and opposed Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝)'s policy Consequently Xian-wen-di(孝文帝)'s Sinonization policy accelerated the downfall of Bei-Wei(北魏). In the course of reformation and downfall of Bei-Wei(北魏) costume played an important role of representing national indentity.