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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 49 - Dec 1999
Volume 48 - Nov 1999
Volume 47 - Sep 1999
Volume 46 - Aug 1999
Volume 45 - Jul 1999
Volume 44 - May 1999
Volume 43 - Mar 1999
Volume 42 - Feb 1999
Selecting the target year
A Study of Clothing Recorded in the[the Odes(詩經)](II)-About the Women's Clothing & Textiles-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 5~17
This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.
A Study on the Street Fashion of Military Look
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 19~36
A military uniform has two basic characters. One is functionality for field warfare and the other is decorativeness to express dignity and power to maintain systematic organization. For these purposes, the military uniform is maximizing its effects on functionality and decorativeness on each aspects of material, color, dignity, item, military ornaments and accessories. During wartime, the military uniform improved its functionality and gave much influence on normal clothing at the same time either directly or indirectly. Military look became more diverse. In a mood for the end of century and inflated material civilization, and with nostalgia for the fast, mixed styles of fast, presents and future have come out in variety. In Street Fashion, there are many alternative trends to meet diverse desires of teenagers, and the military look has been steadily favored. The functionality and the decorativeness of military look would have met fashion sense and taste of younger generations pretty well. First, teenagers are active, and the practical materials and functional designs of military style applied to their clothes. Second, they prefer challenging and creative styles, and the decorative elements of military clothing for the colors, patterns, accessories have been applied to they clothing. We may need to understand their culture and emotion more closely and help them enjoy sound and beautiful clothing culture. The military uniform adapted itself to natural and social environments and has been developed and improved, which made that possible.
A Study about Bisexuality in Current Fashion-Basis on a Representative Designers and their Characteristics in the each period-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 37~56
In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.
A Study of Chinese Peony Pattern
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 57~75
The purpose of this study is to infer the shape and change as auspicious symbolic meaning and figures of a peony pattern. For this study. I analyzed the example of a peony pattern, which is traditional Chinese pattern appeared on a ceramic and textile. The results of this study are as following. First, a peony has particular title, such as 'the king of flowers' and 'the most beautiful woman in country and the smell in heaven' originated in a verse of a poet at Dang's Dynasty. It is reputed to be the best of all flowers, representing beauty, and a beauty. Second, the basic meaning of a peony pattern used as auspicious pattern is prosperity and it has various meanings of it's similar kind through several auspicious objects and combination. Also, it was used for the purpose of adequating the desire of man's blessing mentality. Third, four kinds of characteristics of a peony pattern are as following. 1) A peony pattern has similar shape with 'Bosanghwamoon', which was used as a pattern at formerly period of peony flowers. It was used as realistic shape gave vividness to the characteristic of peony on the shape of 'Bosanghwamoon'. 2) 8-petaled, unique leaves and veins were described in detail by vivid sketching shape of real peony flower. 3) Laying stress on the characteristics of peony flower, which is large and magnificent, several folds petals were described abundantly by exaggerated shape or a shape of big honeycomb. And unique leaves were described realistically on these. 4) It was also expressed peculiar characteristic of peony flower composed of several pieces by weakened design shape.
The Pattern Standardization of Ready-made Korean Traditional Costume for Women in Twenties
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 77~89
The present study aims at developing standardized patterns of ready-made Korean traditional costume for women in twenties and at suggesting classified standards so that consumers can buy high quailty clothes easily without dissatisfaction on unsuitable measurments. It was found from the dressing experiment results that new-concept patterns of Korean jackets onsidering women's bodies were seriously required because jackets fabricated by conventional patterns were not properily fitted to their bodies. During the processes of patten development, dressing experiment, and subsequent pattern adjustment, measurment standards classified by women's bodies were established, and new standardized patterns were developed in accordance with characteristics of women's bodies. These findings suggested that future studies on the pattern modification should be achieved continuously in consideration of ages, tastes, and fashions of modern women consumers.
A Study on the Cause and Characters of Hiphop Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 91~101
The purpose of this study was to examine the hiphop fashion which has the leading power of 1990's korean fashion flow. Hiphop Fashion represents individuals' unique characters and their culture. Baggy jeans with extra large shirts, various accessories, and a unique coordination of these items that is all their own represents the style that is hiphop. There are three major reasons why hiphop fashion has become so popular in the 1990's. First, the popularity of hiphop music whose singers directly influence the public. Second, the popularity of sports and sporting heros. These athletes' sporty Hiphop looks has amply shown that are also leaders of the hiphop fashion. Third, mass media like TV and many publications, defivitely helped to quickly spread hiphop all over the world. Music only TV stations like MTV and StarTV are good examples. Fashion always tells us much - as every anthropologist knows - and a thoughtful analysis of hiphop will reveal many interesting, and perhaps even surprising things about the men and women who wear it.
Effects of Clothing Design Factors on the Perception of Face
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 104~116
This study was intended to make an inquiry into the effect of lines, shapes and colors (achromatic colors) as apparel design elements on the perceptions of facial size, brightness and shape through an empirical research based on the theories of visual perception and optical illusion that have been studied in Gestalt Psychology, which becomes the basis of apparel design principles. It was shown that the facial size was influenced by the collar size, the degree of neckline cut, and the thickness of the trimming line. The white scarf with the white jacket made the face look darkest while the black scarf with the black jacket made the face look brightest. When the neckline had the characteristic of the line contrasted with the facial shape, the oval-shaped face was perceived to be the most ideal. When the facial shape and the neckline shape were similar, the facial shape was perceived to be more highlighted.
A Study on Hudan Bangryung-Banbee
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 117~129
Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.
Solid Graphic Expression in Fashion Illustration Using CAD
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 131~141
The purpose of this study was to investigate the various expressions with materials in fashion illustration using CAD comparing with hand work. The design motive for this study is to be selected from Bell Epoque era which was the revolutionary period in fashion illustration. The results of this study were as follows: 1. By using CAD, water color was well expressed to repeat brushing for the clarity, darkness, and brightness. It was more effective to use CAD in layering or duplicating complex and intricate patterns because the base color gets to be concealed under the repeated oil pastel. Acryl, like oil pastel, was easily absorbed in canvas, so it is effective to repeat brushing for expressing pure color. It was inconvenient to use wax crayon for controlling the moderate opacity because wax crayon absorbed water color dye stuffs, so crayon line was concealed when repetitions were being done. 2. The advantage of using CAD was convenience for getting rid of troublesome process and inefficient works. Also, CAD had a good tool like oil pastel in the use of coloring work by using pure color. By using CAD, various expressions on materials and texture of surface can be achieved effectively. Also, it is very strong substitute for time-saving, convenience, economic aspects from providing simple instrument, and production in the state of various kinds of paper and canvas as a method of visualization. Therefore, fashion illustration using CAD provides effective way of producing works, and gives promising vision in the future.
A Study on the Liturgic Vestments of Christian Priests
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 144~152
The purposes of this study are to 1) enforce the necessity of liturgical vestments though clarifying the symbolic meaning, function and ritual importance of Christian liturgical vestments of ministers, 2) figure out the process of changes and characteristics of Christian liturgical vestments of ministers. 3) clarify the liturgical year, symbolic patterns and colors of the liturgical vestments, and 4) study on the status of current liturgical vestments worn by protestant ministers. Based on the catholic and the protestant churches, the scope of the study was decided and the study was conducted along with research on documents and materials. The results are as follows: 1) The liturgical vestments of priests in the Old Testament era had to be worn by stipulated rules and, instructions to perform duties. 2) The liturgical vestment of the catholid church are very various in their kinds and has their unique origins and meanings. 3) The symbolic patterns, color and meanings used by liturgical years of christianity. 4) Design on the liturgical gown and stole of christian ministers.
A Study on the Symbolic Characteristics of Medieval Heraldry in the Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 153~167
The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.
QR Technology Adoption and Effects in Korean Apparel Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 168~179
In order to settle down structural causes of the process of distribution and apparel production in domestic fashion industry, and to raise competitive power with changing market environment, we need to bulid up Quick Response(QR) system based on information technology such as EDI(Electronic Data Interchange), KAN(Korea Article Number), and POS(Point of Sales), POS is the most valuable information tool to promote QR system paractically. The purpose of this study was to investigate motivation of POS adoption, problems in operating the system, and satisfaction on POS effects. Data were collected by sending questionnaire to the managers in apparel firms which were using POS. Statistical devices were t-test, frequency with SAS program. The results fo the study were as follows: 1. The degree of satisfaction to POS effects was rather good. Especially, rapid evaluations on new products gave the greatest satisfaction to the users. 2. Satisfaction degree of POS effects according to introduces time and organization characteristic(number of employees) have no significant difference, but the firms which have higher annual sales volume showed higher satisfaction degree. Merchandise department showed higher satisfaction on POS effects. 3. The motivation of POS adoption was an effective logistics control with consumer information as a marketing strategy. The problems in operating the system were lack of investment, and professionals. They almost didn't have KAN code, instead, have their own code system.
A Study on the Paper Clothing -on the basis of handmade paper-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 181~199
The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.
A Study on the Brand Positioning by the New Generation's Consciousness of Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 201~213
In this study, an attempt was made to classify the new generation by the conciousness of fashion and to make out positioning map, for brands of which each of the classified groups were aware. It's also intended to show a strategy brand marketing strategy by comparing the attribues that they considered important. The subjects of this study were gatheres into stratified sample groups from women whose age were ranged from 18 to 24 in Taejon. The subject brands of this study were Nice Claup. Y'sb. SYSTEM. i.n.v.u. On & On. EnC. ZOOC and Tomboy. which were selected because of high awareness. The results of this study were as below: 1. The new generation was grouped into a individuality-oriented group and an utility-oriented group. 2. As a result of analyzing brand image similarity, it's found that each group perceived the similarity differently. The individuality-oriented group perceived brand differentially more than the utility-oriented group. 3. concerning brand image preference, the individuality-oriented group preferred EnC most in light of self-expression and fashion, and preferred ZOOC most in view of utility. What was most preferred by the utility-oriented group was EnC in view of fashion and quality and ZOOC in the aspect of fashion, quality, price and design. 4. Regarding satisfaction level at brand image attributes, both of the groups showed satisfaction at On & On and Y'sb in light of self-expression. The individuality-oriented group was contented with SYSTEM's price and Nice Claup's utility and quality. 5. As a result of analyzing the groups' demographic variables, age and monthly mean income made a significant difference.
A Study on Women's Costume Design of the Miao in China
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 215~233
The Miaos have their own peculiar and luxurious transtional culture a they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance againt the Han Race or the chinese in their long and old history. And the traditional culture of the Miaos is abundant and diverse in several respects. Because it has taken root in foundation of their simple and native environment. it is embracing abundant and diverse contents. They largely used as the theme of patterns factual materials such as natural objects easily accessible in the natural environment. those related to marratives reflective of ethnicity, animals and plants symbolic of auspicious omen, peace, happiness and good harrest with prosperity and abundance. And they not only crossornamented natural patterns and geometrical patterns by combining them but also geometric patterns alone. It can be seen that Miaos represented patterns with exaggerated formation, overlapping and modification and the comprehensive, fomation of natural forms, abstract formation etc. Seeing the ethnic costume of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristic of almost perfect costume.
The Study on How Art Nouveau and Art Deco's Influenced on Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 44, 1999, Pages 235~247
The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.