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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 49 - Dec 1999
Volume 48 - Nov 1999
Volume 47 - Sep 1999
Volume 46 - Aug 1999
Volume 45 - Jul 1999
Volume 44 - May 1999
Volume 43 - Mar 1999
Volume 42 - Feb 1999
Selecting the target year
The Morphological Change of Scottish kilt in Historical View
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 5~18
This study focus on the history of Scottish kilt and the application of kilt designed by Vivienne Westwood 1993 F/W. Up to late the 16 Century saffron shirt was worn among Highland men and belted plaid become common dress after the 17 Century. The early the 18 Century belted plaid have developed as a kilt separated to a upper and a lower skirt style. However Government banned wearing tartan and kilt after Culloden battle (1745) as highland Dress(tartan, kilt, belted plaid etc) was the symbol of rebellion. This legislation by Hanoverian authority continued for 35 years. Although most of tartan was disappeared during those period it has become popular among European upper class after george IV's visiting Scotlan in 1822. Highland Dress become Scottish national dress after Industrial revolution. Currently Vivienne Westwood's 93 F/W using tartan and kilt and its accessaries those items were successfully transformed modern ladies dress.
A Study on the Dancing&Music Various Kinds of Entertainer's Costumes of Ancient China(4-3) -Focusing on the West Dancer & musicians's Costumes of Dang Dynasty-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 19~32
The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Dan dynasty has been 10-parts dancer and musician group for courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 2. Except ceremonial dance and music common dance and musics performed it in front of common peaples meetings. 3. After unification of Dang dynasty many commercial men and artist come frome western of China threfore influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume without concern of that one's social position. 4. As the people who lived in thewest areas of old china there characterestics of the costumes are open breast jacked breast laped long skirt long scarf long boots narrow sleeve jackets patterend textilles(for womens) round neck narrow sleeved one-pies dress belt, long boots. patterend textiles(for mens). 5. Dancer's Costumes mode are as follows: 1) For females : high hair style, Twin 'high hair style. jewrery decorated hat bird's hair decorated cap. ribons. 2) For mens: Bok-doo. Hokongdu 6. Except traditional old china dancer dress they have many interested dancer dress for instance dang dynasty's 'Ye-sang woo yui dnace' dancer dress is very elegant and interested hip level jacket has peacoak wing shaped sleeves and long skirt has try angles shape attached apron this dancer dress begins wi-jin nam·book-dynasty. 7. Men dancer dress is just head cap bok doo long narrow sleeved one-pies dress.
A Study of Korean and Chinese Aksu(握手)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 33~46
The purpose of this study is to investigate the Aksu(握手) a kind of shroud This study classifies Aksu by its size shape cloths and color. Korean Aksu through literatures are as follows: The length of Aksu was one Ch'ok(尺) two Ch'on(寸) and the width of Aksu was five Ch'on. The surface pf Alsi were mostly black and the liniing was mostly red. The cloths of Aksu were Paek(帛) and Chu(紬). Aksu through relics was various in size and the cloths were Kongdan(貢緞) Myongchu(明紬) and Sa(紗) and the color was various. Actual conditions of current Aksu were various. The size shape cloths and color were more variable than the literatures and relics. The band of Aksu was all two. n the Chinese Aksu through literatures the length was one Ch'ok two Ch'on and the width waf five Ch'on The cloths of Aksu were Paek and Kyon. The surface of Aksu were mostly black and the lining was mostly red. Aksu in Munkonggaryoieuichul(文公家禮儀節) was tide by the strings of four corners. The Size of the Korean Aksu was the same as Chinese Aksu. The shape of the current Aksu was various than the literatures and relics.
A Study on Orientations Clothing Behaviors and Clothing Purchasing Motives of High School Students - Focus on Individualism/Collectivism -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 47~60
The purpose of this study was to investigate relationship between individualism collectivism clothing behaviors and clothing purchasing motives among high school students and the difference of individualism collectivism clothing behaviors and clothing purchasing motives according to demographic variables. And we also took a close look at how they turned out in their actual clothes-buying. The questionaire survey was used toward 55 high school students in seoul region during October 1998. SAS package program were used to analyze the gatherd data. Frequency Percentage Factor Analysis Duncan test Correlation Analysis and so on. The conclusion based on the results are as follow; 1. The analysis of correlations among individualism collectivism clothing behaviors and motivations showed that there are significant correlations among them 2. There are significant differences in individualism collectivism clothing behaviors and clothing purchasing motives according to demographic variables. 3. There also are significant differences in what motivates them to buy clothes and what they actually purchased(=their motives to buy clothes and their actual purchasing).
The Pattern Standardization for the Ready Made Korean Traditional Costumes for Men in Twenties
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 61~72
For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.
A Study on the Proper Gathering amount of Gathered Skirt(II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 73~88
To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt length-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest and wool fabric was most stable And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times the node indexes were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer the node indexes assumed a similar aspects but according as the skirt length was shorten an the gathering amount was smaller the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton polyester wool fabrics the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times and wood fabric was from up to 1.0 times according as skirt length was longer node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.
A Study on the Conservation of Buried Clothes were Excavated from Jang-gi Chung's Tomb
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 89~100
This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.
A Study on the Selective Criteria and Information Soruce of Imported Apparel Brand
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 101~112
This study examined 1) retail buyer's reasons for buying imported apparel and brand license business and 2) types of information sources which they searched for the businesses 3) types of product/vendor selective criteria Seventy subjects of one hundred samples responded. They were designers merchandisers of apparel companies and buyers of department stores. The results of empirical studies were summarized as follows: 1) Buyers & merchandisers recognized domestic market responses as the most important information source for selecting foreign brand. The critical problem of buying and brand license was deficiency of professionals in fashion retail 2) Buyers & merchandisers primarily recognized brand identity and exclusive style of the product when selecting puoduct or vendor. 3) Buyers & merchandisers primarily recognized return policy and good delivery of the vendor when selecting vendor 4). There were relationships among incormation sources selective criteria of product/vendor and buyer's characteristics.
A Study on Developing Patient Clothing of Free-Size
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 113~124
Hospitals in Korea are having trouble with economic matters because of the low cost of medical insurance and the consumer's demand for high-quality care. The management of patient clothing is very difficult Especially for the management of size is very difficult because the mix of patients in the wards is very different from the stocked clothing sizes. Because of economic matters the ward dose not prepare enough clothing for every size. The nurses in the wards have trouble managing the clothing. Therefore the nurses want free-size patient clothing for all patients. The problem of managing the patient's clothing were surveyed by nureses in the wards. It was known that the free-size patient clothing was needed. The clothing designed from 150cm, to 180cm by 5cm were made. The different sizes of clothing were pretested. The experimental clothing were selected. The experimental patient clothing are designed for between from 165cm and 170cm in height which refers to Korean average. The fitness and sensory test were made by medical personnel outpatient who will be future client for hospital and by specialist in clothing. Finally The free-size patient clothing was made. It was said that there is no difference between the C-type (170cm) and the D-typer(165cm) clothing by specialists in clothing. The outpatient future client for hospital liked the C-type was selected. The questionnaires of the C-type patient clothing was tested by outpatient patients and by medical personnel. Eighty-four point-eightprecent(84.8%) of evaluators liked free-size clothing 75.8% liked unisex use.
A Study on Dance Costumes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 125~142
Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.
A Study on Kitsch in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 143~160
The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.
A Study of Saekdong for Modernistic Expressions
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 47, 1999, Pages 161~170
In the East color is deeply related to man's feelings or emotional status. This is relevant to the peculiar naturalistic thoughts of the East and concretely speaking is based upon the idea of Yin Yang and Five Elements that has dominated the spiritual world of the East. We can see costumes of the Three Kingdoms era or Koryo dynasty on the murals of ancient tomb presume their social backgrounds through remains of the past and find out the existence of Saekdong. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Saekdong which we can see throughout many Eastern countries is a representative image that has been forming and expressing our race's color emotions for a long time. Saekdong to become worldwidely used. And this study has attempted modernistic expressions with Saekdong.