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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 49 - Dec 1999
Volume 48 - Nov 1999
Volume 47 - Sep 1999
Volume 46 - Aug 1999
Volume 45 - Jul 1999
Volume 44 - May 1999
Volume 43 - Mar 1999
Volume 42 - Feb 1999
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A Study on the Dancing & Music Various Kinds of Entertainer's Constumes of Ancient China(2-3) -Focusing on the various kinds of entertainter's costumes of han dynasty-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 5~24
The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position
Characteristics of Somatotype for Boys of Elementary School Age II -Characteristics of factor for upper and lower half in Each Period of School Ages-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 25~48
The purpose of this study is to offer fundamental data for classification of somatotype for boys of elementary school age. The subject were 458 elementary school boys aged from 7 to 12 living in Pusan, Data were collected by 57 anthropometric and 11 photographic measurements and analyzed by factor analysis according to SAS package 1. Through the factor analysis by each period of school ages 6-7 factor were obtained in upper half and they are as followings: 1) Factor 1 is horizontal size of upper half in every period 2) Factor 2 is vertical size of upper half in every period 3) Factor 3 is shoulder shape in the first period and length of upper half in the middle and latter period 4) Facto 4 sis length of upper half in the first period and shoulder shape in the middle and latter period 5) Factor 5 is angle shape of the breast and back in the first period angle shape of the lower breast and back in the middle of period and angle shape of the upper breast and back in the latter of period 6) Factor 6 is angle of shoulder in the first period angle shape of the upper breast and back in the middle of period and angle shape of the lower breast and back in the latter of period 7)Factor 7 is angle of shoulder in the latter of period 2. Through the factor analysis by each period of school ages 5-6 factor were obtained in lower half and they are as followings: 1) factor 1 is horizontal size of upper half in every period 2) Factor 2 is vertical size of upper half in every period 3) Pactor 3 is angle shape of the belly and upper buttock in the first period and length of lower half in the middle and latter period 5) Factor 5 is angle shape of the lower buttock in the first period angle shape of the upper belly and buttock in the middle of period and angle of the side posture in the latter of period 6) Factor 6 is angle shape of the lower buttock in the middle of period and angle shape of the lower belly and buttock
Application of Spectrochemical Analysis in the Study of Archaeological Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 49~63
This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.
The relationships between body-cathexis and clothing image preferences in male college students
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 65~72
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between body-calthexis and clothing image preferences in male college students. The sample included 28 male college students and an instrument was developed based on the previous studies. The statistical analyses used for this study were factor analysis cluster analysis and t-test. The result of factor analysis showed that body-cathexis consisted of four areas of body parts: face/head upper body middle body and lower/total body. Clothing image preferences consisted of 'strong vs weak' 'soft vs hard' 'young vs mature' 'mannis vs feminine' and 'distinguished vs undistinguished' images. Cluster analysis revealed that male college students are segmented into two groups. and the two groups differed in regard to clothing image preferences such as 'strong vs weak' 'young vs mature' and 'mannish vs feminine' images. In addition the two consumer segments were different concerning body-cathexis for middle body and all body areas combined. The consumers who preferred feminine weak and mature clothing images were more satisfied with their middle area of the bodies and all body areas combined.
Dyeing properties of Protein Fabrics by Cassia tara Extracts
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 73~84
The purpose of this study was to investigate dyeing properties of silk and wool fabric by Cassia tora extracts according to the conditions such as extraction(temperature time) dyeing(temperature time) condition kinds of mordants temperature of mordanting. The color fastness of laundering irradiation were examined. The results were as follows: The wavelength of maximum absorpthion by extracts appeared at 201, 277, 382nm in UV-Vis spectrum. Absorbance of extracts were increased with temperature and time. The extraction efficiency of Cassia tora was determined as
of extraction temperature 120 minutes of extraction time. Silk fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 90min at
. Wool fabric had highest K/S value when dyeing for 60min at
. Surface color of silk and wool fabric dyed with Cassia tora extracts was 3,9Y and 0.4Y but it was changed from 9.3YR to 7,4Y and from 9.4YR to 5Y by mordants. The fabrics of mordanted by metal ion dyed the depth of color. Laundering and irradiation fastness of mordanted fabrics were improved as compared with nonmordanted fabrics.
A Study on Fabrics in Kaya Period - Focused on the Fabrics of the Okjeon Old Tomb -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 85~94
The fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb in the Kaya period were examined. Most of fabrics examined were composed of hemp and silk. Considering that silk was found in the old tomb of the Kaya period in the late 5th century and that various kinds of silk were used in the other area silk was assumed to be used before 5th century in the Kaya period. Only the structure of the densely plain weaved fabrics were analysed as silk and the other physical properties of the fabrics could not be the examined fabrics were plain weaved and altered structure with twill and plain weaving were found indicating that diverse weaving structures were used in the Kaya period. This indicate a certain level of cultural exchange between Kaya and Silla PaikJae, Kokuryo and weaving technique were almost similar in the Korean peninsula in the 5th century.
A Study on the Color Symbol on Costume in the Virgin Mary and an Infant Jesus Icons
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 95~112
The purpose of this study was to research of color symbol on white in the Virgin Mary and an Infant jesus icons. For this purpose icons were selected and analyzed from the medieval ages to the 18th century. The results were as follows. Icons on the subject of the Annnunciation and the Nativity should be expressive of nobility immaculacy and innocence of the Virgin Mary and an Infant Jesus. With this view white was used to be color of candle a waxing moon lily kettle dress bedspredad towel wall encircled garden and became symbolic color in the Icons. As a result the color symbol of white the meaning of immaculacy and innocence disseminated according to spread of the Christian religion. In these days though elimination of the religious meaning the white color is using continuosly as a symbolic color of immaculacy and innocence.
Perceived Differences in Brands of Jeans; Classification and Characteristics of Brand-Switching
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 113~124
The purpose of this study was to categorize brand-switching behaviors into subdivided groups by variety seeking and perceived differences between brands and to compare and to analyze brand-switching motive perceived differences between brands clothing-involvement and buying price among the subdivided groups. The subjects were 343 female and male to have jean pants-buying experience in their age of 20-29 living in Seoul and Kyunggi province. For the analysis of the data mean frequency t-test
-Test Factor analysis MANOVA Duncan-test were conducted and the cronbach's
has been calculated to measure the reliability The results are as follows: 1. brand-switching behaviors are categorized into 4 groups by strength of variety-seeking and perceived differences between brands that are small or large which are habitual brand switchers internal derived brand-switchers external derived brand-switchers and combined derived brand-switchers. 2. Among the 4 sub-groups there were significant difference in brand-switching motive according to factors such as change-seeking needs and price & promotion. And there were significant differences in perceived differences between brands according to factors such as apparel design clothing -symbolism fitness except apparel shop. 3. According to strength of variety-seeking levels of clothing-involvement and buying price have increased Combined derived brand-switchers have totally the strongest variety-seeking and the highest clothin-involvement and they purchase the highest priced jean-pants of the other types of consumers.
Criteria for Store Selection and the Use of Information Sources by Jeans Wear Brand Royalty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 125~136
The present study was conducted to analyze(1) if there are any differences in jean's brand royalty according to the age·sex·educational background and income of consumers (2) the criteria for store choice by jean's brand royalty of consumers (3) the use of information souces by jean's brand royalty of consumers. The research method employed was normative-descriptive survey and questionnaires were main instrument to gather research materials. The survey was implemented from July 1st 1998 to the schools and two colleges and those who work at a comuter-related company and at a trade company. The data gathered was analyzed by mean standard deviation t-test ANOVA and Duncan -multiple range test. The results are summarized as follows: (1) 58.6% of the respondents were categorized as the brand loyalty group that was bigger than the non-brand loyalty group (41.4%) People in their late 2-'s were inclined to have the highest brand loyalty for jeans People in university and above had relatively higher brand royalty than to people with a high school or lower (2) Brand royalty group paid more attention on the quality on the quality of the fabric use; the trands of the products: brand name of the product: the distance of the store location : and the comfortable atmosphere of the store. Pleasant and kind services of the salesperson was considered as more important factor for store selection by the non-brand royalty group than by brand royalty group. (3) Almost all the information sources were used more often by brand royalty group than non-brand royalty group. For both groups their own experiences is most important information sources. The results shows that consumers have high brand loyalty for jeans product and also have many differences not only in the usage of information sources but also in the store selection criteria accorrding to the level of jeans brand loyalty . Therefore those industries carrying jeans should these points on their marketing strategies.
A Study on the Design of Wedding Dress Expressed Traditional beauty of Han-Bok
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 137~154
This study was designed to unify two types -traditional and western- of wedding dress in one and to develop new wedding dress which can be used to wedding ceremony as well as Pae-Bae(Greeting) as an alternative for the modernistic utilization of traditional wedding dress. The wedding dress for a bride and bridegroom was developed to be used not only for wedding ceremony but also for engagement. The children's dress which can be worn for carrying flowers in front of a bride and a bridegroom was also developed. All six dresses two of each for a bride and a bridegroom one of each for a body and a girl were developed from the review of literature and photos to be introduced traditional wedding dress. The results were as follows: 1. The Korean characteristics in the developed dress were expressed well in the curves straight lines oblique lines and cracks. 2. The traditional symbolic meanings were expressed by using the pattern which was on traditional wedding dress. Changes from five original colors -red, blue, yellow, white, black- to pastel colors also could modernize the dress. 3. The Korean characteristics could be effectively expressed in dying techniques and piling -up by using hand-made silk and No-Bang, 4. The children's dress for a ceremony was re-established to modernized design with traditional beauty. 5. The expenses could be saved practically because the dress was developed for wedding ceremony as well as for engagement.
The Effects of Preschool Children's Personality Traits and Parental Child-Rearing Attitudes on Clothing Behaviors
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 155~172
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of children's personality traits and parental child-rearing attitudes on clothing attitudes and color evaluation of preschool children. The subjects for this study consisted of 360 five-year-old children who were attending a preschool and their parents in Cheju Island Korea. Employed mothers had significantly higher score on love acceptance attitude than unemployed mothers did. Female children had more conservative attitude on clothing sex-role than male children did There were no significant gender differences in parental child-rearing attitudes. There were significant relationships between gender and preferred clothing colors. Male children were more likely to prefer blue red, green, and prussian blue for the colors of clothing than were female children while female children liked pink yellow and orange more than male children. Boys selected blue and girls selected pink as the most preferred clothing color. Overall preschool children chose red as the most preferred color black as the most disliked color. The children's sex identification by clothing color was highly consistent with the conservative attitude of adults for all colors. That is preschool children identified pink red and yellow with female color while prussian blue blue and green with male color. Clothing interest of boys was influenced by the mother's state of employment and academic trait. The boys high in academic trait and whose mothers did not have job were high in clothing interest. Clothing management of boys was influenced by emotionality and love acceptance rearing Ttitude. Clothing independednce of boys was influenced by authority control rearing attitude Clothing sex-role of boys was influenced by familism trait. The boys high in familism trait had open-hearted attitude in clothing sex-role. Clothing interest of girls was influenced by academic trait clothing management by sociality clothing independence by emotionality and clothing satisfaction by familism trait. Therefore the more positive personality children had the higher clothing interest and the more desirable clothing attitudes they had.
A Study on the Foreign Influences(胡風, Hofeng) on the Dancing Costumes in the Tang Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 49, 1999, Pages 173~184
In the Tan dynasty it cultural style was very international and its culture actively absorbed other foreign culture. Moreover it was the time when the concept of barbarians(胡, hu) was applied widely and its culture got the tremendous influence from other foreign culture The influence from the barbarians were tremendous in Tang dynasty so that among the ten elements of the Sipbuak(十部樂) in Tang period only ChungSangAk(淸商樂, Qingshangyue) and YenAk(燕樂, Yenyue) were from their own Chinese culture(漢, Han). I wanted to discuss the influences of the Barbarians cultures on the dancing costumes in Tang period for it appeared to me that especially the dancing costume with the introduction of new foreign dances and their distinct styles in costumes would make a great impact on the dressing styles in Tang dynasty On the dancing costumes in tang dynasty we dan find the strong influences by the Barbarian style(胡風, hufeng), and even the authentic Chinese dressing styles of han period appear to be change quite a bit.