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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 50, Issue 8 - Dec 2000
Volume 50, Issue 7 - Nov 2000
Volume 50, Issue 6 - Sep 2000
Volume 50, Issue 5 - Aug 2000
Volume 50, Issue 4 - Jul 2000
Volume 50, Issue 3 - May 2000
Volume 50, Issue 2 - Mar 2000
Volume 50 - Jan 2000
Selecting the target year
A Study on Deconstructured Space and Visibility in Clothes - Regarding Hussein Chalayan′s Design-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 5~20
Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.
A Study on the Influence of India in the neo-classical french Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 21~36
History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.
A Study of New Orientalism Represented in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 37~51
In this study, New Orientalism represened in modern fashion is defined a new idea that harmonized with factors of eclecticism, traditionalism, naturalism, and futurism and these characteristics are examined. First, as these features, it is the phenomenon of eclecticism presented beyond regions and sex. Second, it is the phenomenon of traditionalism newly expressed traditional images in a modern sense by using and changing of a oriental dress image of the of the past. Third, it is the phenomenon of naturalism revealed an unalloyed recurrent instinct about nature and a desire for yearning. Fourth, it is the phenomenon of futurism which is come out the factor of oriental images whithin a minimal and cyber environment. This paper might be the foundation for Korean Orientalism which could be not a just pastiche but a cultural commodity and s main fashion current with a cultural identity especially in the year of 2000, "New Arts Year", declared by Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
Characteristics of Colors and Color Communication tools applied in the Korean Fashion Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 53~61
The purpose of this study is to classify the characteristics of color communication tools and the color range applied in the Korean fashion industry. To collect the color sample and related references, a questionnaire was distributed during the time period, December, 1995 to June, 1996. From the responses, 2641 color samples used by 109 domestic brands, from 1993 spring/summer to 1996 spring/summer, were collected and analyzed. The data was measured by L*a*b*, and the H V/C formula found in the Munsell notation was used to calculate the data. To classify the color range served for the fashion industry, the distribution of colors are analyzed by difference of season and fabric. The results of this study are as follows : 1. Dominant colors in the Korean fashion industry are Red, Yellow-red, Yellow, purple-blue and low chromatic range colors. 2. While high value colors, such as pale, light greyish, light, dull, dark and vivid tone colors, are dominant in the spring/summer season, low value colors, such as greyish, dark greyish. and deep tone colors and warm colors such as Red, Yellow-red, are prevalent in the fall/winter season. 3. The number of colors commonly used for color planning is less than 20 colors, and both hue and tone are considered important when making color selections. 4. All brands take consumers' color preferences into consideration for color planning, and most of them also take color trends into account. 5. Hue and tone color characteristics analyzed by types of fabrics show more seasonal influence than the fabric itself.
The Impact of Lifestyle Factors on Clothing Purchase Motives, Information Use, and Selection Criteria in Male College Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 63~72
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of lifestyle factors on clothing purchase motives, information use, and selection criteria in male college students. The sample included 241 male college students, and an instrument was developed based on the previous studies. The statistical analyses used for this study were factor analysis and multiple regression. The result of factor analysis showed that lifestyle consisted of six factors : clothing interest, serif-confidence, social participation, planned clothing purchase, family-orientation, and conservativeness. Clothing purchase motives consisted of conspicuous consumption motives, fashion and individuality motives, and economic motives. Clothing information use consisted of four factors: paper/display, personal advice, fashion show/clothing observation, and electronic media. Finally. clothing selection criteria consisted of practicability, fashion/individuality, and conformity, Multip1e regression revealed that there were significant effects of lifestyle factors on clothing purchase motives, information use, and selection criteria. For example, self-confidence factor had a negative impact on conspicuous consumption motive, personal advice information use, and fashion/individuality criteria. The relative importance of lifestyle factors were different according to different dimensions of clothing purchase motives, information use, and selection criteria.
A Study on the Colors of Court Dancing Suits in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty - Centering around dances YukHwaDae.MuSanHyang.ChoonAgengJeon-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 73~87
The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court′s feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national quests from foreign countries. There are 53 kinds of court dancing suits, ranging from the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms to the period of Chosun Dynasty. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles : DangAk-JeongJae(唐樂呈才) style and HyangAk-feongjae(鄕樂呈才) style, depending on dancing styles. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as YukHwaDae(六花隊), MuSanHyang(舞山香) and ChoonAengJeon(春鶯 ), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly
A Study of comparing Korean Jowoo-Guan(조우관) and Chinese Hal-Guan(할관) - Focusing on transition and symbolism of the plume in the cap -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 89~102
The purpose of this study was to research Korean Jowoo-Guan and Chinese Hal-Guan and study transition and symbolism of the birds feather in the cap. The culture of ancient Korea was influenced by North Asia prior to the influence of the Chinese culture, One of the remarkable thing, as the cultural factor of North Asia is the birds worship thought. Korean Jowoo-Guan was derived from the birds worship thought. So in dealing with the plume of Korean Jowoo-Guan, we must recognize Worship to the bird and the symbolical meaning of the bird. The results of study was as follow. 1. Korean Jowoo-Guan was influenced worship to the sun, so it's wearing symbolized the governing class. As the Social development and governing class, the feathering cap was developed to a gold crown, and also the gold crown of Samguk times had been influenced style of North Asia culture. But afterwards the symbolical meaning of the bird was waning, only decorative meaning was remained. 2. Chinese Hal-Guan was warn in Joo-dynasty, but the symbolism of the plume in the cap was not similar to Korean Jowoo-Guan. Chinese Hal-Guan was symbolized bravery of superfluous soldier than Worship to the bird. But afterwards the symbolical meaning of bravery of superfluous soldier was waning, only decorative moaning was remained. 3. Though neighbor countries have mutually influenced and have similar cultural style, they have symbolism of themselves
A Relationship with Sports Casualwear Consumer′s Fashion life Style and information source
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 103~115
The purpose of this study is to provide consumers with practical information for reasonable purchasing by analyzing apparel purchasing behavior. information source use, demographic differences in terms of life style patterns, moreover, to support apparel manufacturers in producing goods and making a plan by developing more effective advertisements and efficient marketing strategy, such as media strategy. This study targeted 832 men and women wearing sports casual wear. Information source is used to analyze the data and MANOVA, ANOVA. Scheffe is employed for post-inspection and demographic bases are based on the frequency of each type. The followings are the conclusions of this study : 1. In case of print media, TV, PC factor, fashion advocates and individuality advocates most frequently used information source. In case of purchasing experience factor, individuality advocates skewed higher frequency than conformity type. and then, in case of observation information use factor, individuality advocates were ranked as the highest and conformity type as the lowest. In case of human information use factor, fashion advocates and individuality advocates showed higher frequency than practical type and conformity type. 2 In case of female, Individuality advocates was ranked as the highest. In case of male, practical type and conformity type were rank as the highest. Fashion advocates ranked as the lowest in any case. 3. Individuality advocates were ranked as the highest among people aged 14 to 16, practical type among 17 to 19, conformity type among 20 to 23, conformity type among over 20. 4. Middle school students tended to be the individuality advocates, high school students the practical type, university students the practical type and the conformity type, and company workers conformity type.
Comparative Wearing Teat for Suggesting Prototype of Clean Room Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 117~130
This study is to develop the well-fit clean room smocks by wearing test of 2 available clean room smocks and a revised smock. 20 female subjects individually participated in the wearing test. The test procedure consisted of a rating on fit and adaptability and comparative test according to clean room smock types. The summaries of results are as follows : 1. The results of fit and adaptability rating on different clean room smocks showed that the revised type proved the most effective from a viewpoint of fitness and adaptability, 2. As far as the result of comparative test are concerned, most of the subject assessed the revised type is the most comfortable. As for freedom of movement, it is disclosed that the subjects prefer the revised type too.
A Semiotic Analysis of Orientalism Reflected in Modern Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 131~146
The starting point of this study was that the Orientalism reflected in the modern clothing is realized the different view by Western and Eastern. Based on this regard, this study semiotically analyse that clothing is creating the cultural values and signification and that the western designers are reproducing an ideology as orientalism being the western-oriented thought when expressing the Asian image in the modern clothing. The theoretical sides are based on the semiotic analyses of F. Saussure, C. Peirce, and R. Barthes. By the result observed through this study, the Orientalism reflected in the modern clothing designed by Western designers are discriminative image, mystic image, past-oriented image, natural image, and complex-eclectic image. The discriminative image is reproduced as a savage and uncivilized image. In addition, it regarded as a decorative and superficial image is expressed as if it is an uncharacterized and underdeveloped image in the modern clothing. The mystic image is reproduced as a romantic image to stimulate Westerners'curiosity. That is, Asian image is regarded as a dream and magical image rather than a scientific and rational image. The past-oriented image is expressed through restricting Asian positive image in Asian historical glory. The natural image differs from Western image based on science in the modern clothing. The modern clothing regards the natural image as a primitive and instinctive image. The complex-eclectic image is the pastish pattern through selecting and distributing heterogeneous materials in the modern clothing. This study critically analyzes the western-oriented thought of orientalism in the modern clothing. The results of the study imply that it is critical that we provide a new contact point for the East and the West in the context of our Asian values and traditions.
A Study on Class Representation in Korean and Western Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 147~164
This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.
Fashion Design for Applying Supra Syndrome of Corset
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 165~180
Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwear-ization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwear-ization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design processgy was also found helpful in creative fashion design process
A Study on active use of Daily Hanbok through sales on The Internet
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 4, 2000, Pages 181~195
This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.