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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 50, Issue 8 - Dec 2000
Volume 50, Issue 7 - Nov 2000
Volume 50, Issue 6 - Sep 2000
Volume 50, Issue 5 - Aug 2000
Volume 50, Issue 4 - Jul 2000
Volume 50, Issue 3 - May 2000
Volume 50, Issue 2 - Mar 2000
Volume 50 - Jan 2000
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Ceremonial Costum′s of the South (Unification) Silla Kingdom-Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 5~24
The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Silla Kingdom has been the name of chronolongical era, from king Bubhung 2nd years to Jinduck 4 years. 2. From Dang dynasty has been received to King of Silla, first class-third class of Dang's office and rank. 3. After unification of Silla Kingdom, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come froze Dang to Silla, threfore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume, without concern of that one's social position. 4. Ancient Silla Kingdom performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony, but after unification, performed King's level a religious service, therefor King's ceremonial costumes are Dang dynasty's king's level Myunryukwanbok.
A Study on Textile Design of Raoul Dufy adapted in Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 25~39
Raoul Dufy devoted and was involved in textile design between 1910 and 1928. It was a transitional period in fashion. especially Poiret took an important role as a fashion designer at that time. After meeting Poiret, he won the fame as a textile designer rather than a painter, in his early stages, He had been deeply involved in fashion design. For instance Dufy and Poiret shared their world of art, collaborated to mount exhibitions, the Print textile fabrics by Dufy was used for dresses by Poiret and so on. The textile design which showed Dufy's artistic abilities was used as a method of expression of an exchange and a communication between art and fashion in the same period, through collaborations with Poiret. For instance, Dufy as a fauvist created and produced textile designs using his magnificent and cheerful colors and lines. He brought about a revolution in the textile design due to his participation in fashion design, as well as encouraging fashion designers. Textile design by Dufy, which grafted onto his world of art impressed Poiret greatly. It proposed the new direction of the fashion and influenced modern costume. The positive collaborate between Dufy and Poiret provided a momentum to a costume for being a part of art. Textile design as one of the important area in modern fashion needs a design originality for creating a high value-added products.
Comparisons between Dancing Costumes Style of Kokurye and Han dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 41~52
During the 3C(B.C.) and 2C(A.D.), there were large influx of variety of arts to Jin and Han dynasty such as music, dancing, and at performing from neighboring countries. It made a tremendous impact on the development of dancing an in Han dynasty. On the other hand, Kokurye people had also enjoyed their own singing and dancing culture (styles) for a long time. Han and Kokurye's dancing costumes were studied based on artifacts (data) such as wall paintings, clay doll, and other small paintings all from tombs in Han and Kokurye. A similarity was found between two dynasties' dancing costume, since both had tong sleeve dresses. However, the further detailed study showed that one can't simply say both are in the same style. For example, the dress in Han dynasty had a long length style of coat(深衣) covering all the way to feet, and there were round neckline coat(團領) and long Jacket(장유). In contrast, that of Kokurye had a shorter length in coat(直領) covering only up to calf of the leg or long jacket(장유).
Changes of Western Men′s Underclothes - in the First Half of the 20C -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 53~64
The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.
A Study on suitability of Maternity Dress on the Market - Spring & Summer Clothes -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 65~75
The purpose of this study was to survey about the suitability of maternity dresses on the market and thus to contribute for the maternity dress makers to produce clothes which are ergonomic and wanted by customers. The chief designers of the two major maternity dress makers were questioned about design and production planning, and 195 subjects who had an experience of delivery within a year were questioned about their consumer behavior, preference, and body fitting. The suggestions according to the results of the questionnaire of maternity dress makers and customers were as follows : 1. The most important item, an one-piece dress should be produced a lot more than other items. 2. The designs of maternity dress should be more simple, sophisticated, and natural. 3. The colors of pastel tone rather than trendy colors should be used. 4. The materials of maternity dress should be washable and able to help pregnant women's activity. 5. The front patterns of maternity dress should have more ease than the back patterns have, to cope with increasing abdominal girth and bust girth.
Cloches Selection in Accordance with Job Characteristic and Working Place Situation of A Professional Women in Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 77~90
The purpose of this study is to disclose the dimension of job characteristic, working place situation. and clothes selection, which are variable on clothes selection, to research the relation of job characteristic, working place situation, and clothes selection and to disclose the feature of consumers by each group in accordance with job characteristic. The follows are summary of this study result : The concept structure of job characteristic is composed by four types. Working place situation related with clothes selection are consisted of five types. Professional women selected clothes in accordance with nine feature. Job characteristic is related with working palace situation and influences on clothes selection. The persons influenced by activity state regarded personality as important when select clothes. The persons influenced by duty state regarded harmony and control as important, instead of, they ignored conformity. People select occupation according to individual feature, so the feature of consumers, working place environment, working place situation are different in accordance with job characteristic, as a result we can find differences in clothes selection suitable for working palace and purchasing.
A Study on Service Quality and Repurchase Intention of Home Shopping Apparel
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 91~102
The purposes of this study are to determine dimension of apparel expectations. performances and service quality of home shopping and thereby, to analyze effect of apparel commodities dimension (expectations, performances, disconfirmation and satisfaction) and service dimension (service quality and satisfaction) on repurchase intention. The subject were 351 women in the age of twenty to sixty years old who live in Seoul and the suburban of Seoul. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1. It was found that home shopping consumers' expectation and performance with apparel commodities were classified 3 factors. On the other hand, the dimensions of service quality were found to have such 3 factors as convenience reliability, personal factor, and apparel one. 2. More frequent users of home shopping scored more on average than less frequent users in terms of service quality, service satisfaction and intention of repurchase. On the other hand, the cable TV users scored more on average than catalogue users In terms of service quality and intention of repurchase. 3. It was found that consumers' intention of repurchase of home shopping were affected by such variables as discofirmation and satisfaction with apparel commodities, service quality and service satisfaction. While less frequent users were affected by disconfirmation and service quality, more frequent users were affected by such variables as apparel commodities satisfaction, service quality and service satisfaction. Meanwhile, both cable TV and catalogue users were found to be affected by service quality and service satisfaction.
The Effect of Presentation Methods of Apparel Products on the Internet on Purchase Decision Making. - Focused on the purchase of jeans apparel far college students -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 103~115
There are various presentation methods of apparel products on the internet shopping mall. The objective of this study was (a) to identify the effect of information supply about the criteria to evaluate a garment according to presentation methods and (b) to investigate the relation between the consumer's evaluation of presentation methods and confidence in purchase decision. For this experiment. 4 presentation methods of jean were selected from internet shopping mall. They were rotating appearance on the body, enlarged product picture, apparel items coordination method and just picture of wearing appearance. Each presentation method was evaluated by panels using questionnaire. Consumer's evaluation of presentation methods were developed 5 point likert scale. The major findings drawn from this study were as follows : 1. There were significant differences in degree of information supply about product criteria according to presentation methods. Enlarged product picture introduction was good for confirmation of sewing state, fabric and detail. Apparel items coordination method was good for judgement of styling and current fashion suitability. 2. Dimension of information evaluation was composed of providing pleasure, utility of information, reliability & attractiveness, negative emotions. All of these factors affect confidence in purchase decision and intention of revisiting the site. The most important factor for confidence in purchase decision making was reliability & attractiveness. as compared to this, intention of revisiting the site was more influenced by providing pleasure.
A Study of the Young Aged Women′s Bust
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 117~130
The purpose of this thesis is to offer basic data for clothing design which is intended to apply appropriate shape and capacity to clothes. The following are the analyzed results of an investigation which was conducted to characterize the upper half of the female body of 193 women whose ages are 18 to 25, taking part in this investigation. According to the results of analyzing young women's bust, I came to find a large individual difference of the wide varying factor numbers at the items of the side feature, the body stance, and the dart quantity. For the analysis of the female's upper body, 11 factors are used. The are as follows: Factor 1. width of the bust Factor 2. height of the bust and length of the arm Factor 3. side thickness of the bust and the upside type Factor 4. length of the bust on the front Factor 5. length of the bust on the back Factor 6. salient ratio of the breast Factor 7. width of the neck. the armhole, and measurement of the droop Factor 8. length of the shoulder Factor 9. flat ratio of the bust Factor 10. inclination of the shoulder factor 11. form of the back The shape of young women's upper bodies can be divided into four groups. The character ization of each group are as follows : Group 1 . 28.5% of the women who take part in this investigation belong to Group 1 These women have the shortest body, with a longer length of the front than the back and more thickness on the front than the back. Group 2. 21.1% of the women who take part in this investigation belong to this group. They show a longer length of the back and more thickness of the back than the front. In addition, this group is bent forward. Group 3. This group is the mast common type, showing the shortest and thickest character. 37.8% of the women who take part in this investigation have this bust character Group 4. 12.4% of the women belong to Group 4. They possess the highest and fattest character, skewing smaller necks, armholes, and waists than the other groups. This group also shows the drooping shoulders.
A Study on the Traditional Dyeing of Korean buddhist Monk′s Robe
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 131~142
The philological consideration of Korean Buddhist Monk's robe and its reviving have been investigated in traditional way. The configuration and colour of Korean Buddhist monk's robes have been properly adapted for an period, territory, and atmospheric phenomena. In case of Korea, introduced Buddhism from China realize modern robe from under the influence of fusion of Chinese ornament culture and Korean traditional ornament culture. As a result of this modern robe has been consisted of a Buddhist monk's robe and a cope. The modem robes has been significantly affected by industrialization, contrary to ancient time taxed robes as public imposts. At present be familiar in mass production we have a preference for the easier way in making and even color forming. In this paper it is focused on dyeing part, which recognized its important in latest time, at first declined according to appearance of chemical dye, evaluated its convenience in use. That is, it is increased natural dye, people begin with recognition of difference of physical properties for dress dyed with chemical pigment and that with natural pigment. In consequence, I have presented that both making colour of gray using traditional method, and three demolished-color prescribed by Buddhist law. Of course, though it become generally know that dyeing of robes occupied significant part of traditional natural dyeing. But in case of religion, it also is important to know symbolical meaning involved in its colour. Most of Buddhism-believers or even Buddhists who actually be dress in robe are without knowing the meaning of colour, or its revealing method. There, I have considered mating three colour of demolished- color included blue, black, and red, and also represented dyeing method of Buddhist monk's robe using both charcoal and ink-spick. From religious font of view, as robes contains involving of blessing, I have an intention of improvement way in dyeing and succession and development of traditional culture through consideration of traditional dyeing method. And I have also intended to restoration the value of robe's colour, disappeared by the time. moreover, I have shown that dyeing with natural pigment is profitable for both environment and sanitary aspect.
The Meaning of Pastiehe in the Postmodern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 143~157
The pastiche is one of the most unique characteristics in the post-modern period. The pastiche fashion design is an intentional imitation expressed by deconstructivity of the design. It has become the major creation method of post-modern fashion by expressing the image from the variety and creativity. The concept of imitation in pastiche is the important fashion subject which lead the dynamics and creativities of fashion when It has freshness and spiritual energy. The values of creative area of pastiche are as fellows - firstly, it provides the delightness through the disharmony by being released from the restraint and stress of the restricted society. Secondly, the characteristics of restoration generated by development and reproduced from imitation has become an origin of creation. Thirdly, the boundary between subculture and high-class culture would be dismantled and the elements of these culture are mixed to become a unique image through its abundance and compromise vague public culture. Fourthly, the pastiche fashion dismantles the basic structure of clothes to endow avant-garde esthetic appreciation. Fifthly, the folklore fashion representing the culture of minority and neighboring countries would become a new destroying the historically fixed clue. sixthly, the reinterpretation of pastiche fashion discovers the new regulations and beauties from Imitation to provides tow Important elements of post-capitalism fashion, dynamics and creativity. Lastly the consistent adaptation of image of fashion design with strong technical and theoretical basis can establish new fashions of this era with its unique creativeness.
A Study on the Expression of Clothing and Textiles Recorded in "Heikemonkatary(平家物語)"
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 50, issue 5, 2000, Pages 159~169
The purpose of this study Is to research the clothing and textiles recorded in Heikemonokatary which was written from 1131 to 1198. The research materials are 36 kinds of men's clothes and ornaments, 6 kinds of women's things, 10 kinds of colorings and 6 kinds of textiles. The results of this study are as follow : 1. There were many advanced warriors' clothes. Especially the helmets and armors were very gorgeous. The shapes of warriors' knives, arrows, shields were concretely described. The women's clothes were mostly unchanged from Nara period and Heian period. Women wore clothes on their heads when they went out. 2. One particular thing in color is that the brown color of that period was navy blue which is symbolic of victory. There were some textiles which was woven with the boiled silk thread in the latitude and the raw silk thread in the longitude. Besides, the blackening of teeth, the bobbed haler of boys, and the celebration of one's corning of age were described in the book.