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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
A Study of the normativeness on the Influence of the Memphis on the Comtemporary Fashion Design - Focused on the End of the 20th Century -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 5~20
The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.
Type and Characteristics of Gauze Fabric of Ancient Korea - Focused oil Gauze Fabrics Shown on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 21~32
Gauze is very light and thin. Their warps are entangled and their structure is loose. It is natural that they are easier to decay than other silk fabrics through physiochemical processes over a long period of time. Nonetheless quite many remains of Gauze fabrics can be found in China or Japan as well as in Korea. Various Gauze was used in costumes since the era of the Three Kingdoms and their weaving techniques, such as using gold threads with silk-fabrics, was developed in Koryo dynasty era, which made it possible to create more magnificent gauze fabrics in Korea. Relatively a lot of Gauze fabrics are remained in Korea. Based on these corroborative relics, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of gauze fabrics possesed in Korea and categorizes the gauze fabrics described in the Decrees on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk. This also compares them with the present gauze in other countries. The types of gauze fabrics are generally divided into desined gauze, and non-designed gauze, the one without pattern. There ar a lot of desined gauze, such as dyeing gauze, brocade gauze, embroidery with gauze ground, patterned gauze with gauze ground etc. which were found in Korea and also in China and Japan. Non-designed gauze is divided into 2-end complex gauze, 3-end complex gauze, 4-end complex gauze, etc depending on the number of crossing warps. All of the non-designed gauze of Koryo dynasty found in Korea was 4-end complex gauze fabrics. These non-designed gauze fabrics were also found in Japan and China.
Sewing Construction of the 17th Century-Clothing Through the Excavated Costume - Based on Tombs in O chang -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 33~48
This study is on the sewing construction of the 17th century clothing through the Excavated Costumes in O-chang, ChungBuk in 1998. The followings are the results of this study. There are various sewing constructions in this excavates costume : a running stitch.a back stitch.a half back stitch.a french seam.a gobsol(korean traditional seam sewing). We can see that the sewing construction of the 17th century-clothing depends on construction styles : one layer, two layers, clothing padded with cotton(include quilt). We can see that sewing construction in the one taler clothing consisted of a running stitch, a french seam, a gobsol seam. In the two layer clothing the construction included a running stitch and half back stitch. a running switch and a decorated top stitch(3stitch) were used in the clothing padded with cotton. We can see that the sewing construction enhanced the function of keeping the shape of clothing and the raw edges. We can see that the shape of clothing is important in presentation of aesthetic of the clothing. Such a kind of sewing construction lasted from the early Chosen Dynasty through the 17th century.
A Study on Infant s Wear Brand Positioning according to Fashion Lifestyle of Missy Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 49~59
This study was designed to identify the brand positioning of Infant's wear according to fashion lifestyle of missy women. Cluster analysis on fashion lifestyle classified three groups according to fashion lifestyle factors : Fashion Indifference group(34%), Fashion & Individuality Oriented group(27%), Rationality Oriented group(37% ). The analysis of positioning map with satisfaction of seven brand image attributes (color, design, price, utility, quality brand name, fashion) showed the distance of satisfaction was different among three groups.
The Consumer Satisfaction and Repurchase Intention according to Apparel Store types. - Focusing on Product Quality and Service Quality -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 61~74
This study is designed to examine the consumer behaviors affected by the product quality and the service quality in the garment industry. First of all, it is researched to recognize the differences in the mean of perceived product quality variables and the service quality variables in apparel stores. Secondly, the variables of the product quality and the service qualify are also investigated to see the casual effects in the consumer satisfaction and consumer repurchase intention, respectively. The 522 data, surveyed from the female college students, were analaysed with SPSS 8.0 version. Cronbach
Frequency, Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Scheffe test, stepwise regression were applied. In conclusion, there are significant differences in the mean of the product quality variables and the service quality variables in the apparel stores. They are the product quality variables such as physical attribute and instrumental performances and the service quality variables regarding sales staff, VMD, store policy, and customer convenience in the apparel stores. The variables of the product quality and the service quality directly have leverage in the consumer satisfaction and repurchase intention.
A Study on the Fabric Planning and Production.duality Management of Women s Knitwear Industries
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 75~85
The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the high quality knitwear production. For this purpose, knit promotions that product knitwear for 20 age ∼ 30 middle age women were sampled to survey the fabric planning and production·quality management of knitwear, and their directors were surveyed through direct interviews. Data is processed by a computer(SPSS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, mean. The results of this study are as fellows. 1. Most of the sample companies were getting smaller or pettier in terms of capital, number of employees. 2. Knit promotions were universally using acrid and wool as knit fabric. 3. Knitwear tended to be producted much in knit promotions. 4. It is needed to use high quality fabric and perform careful sewing for knitwear quality rising.
Analysis of Somatotype for the Bodice of the Upper Body of Obese Male Children(I) - Centering around Nine to Eleven Year Old Boys -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 87~96
This study, dealing with obese bodily figures from the viewpoint of garment shape, was conducted with obese male children of late school ages(nine to eleven years old) to provide data for making ready-made clothing for obese children by directly measuring and analysing the bodily figure of the upper body of them. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. According to the basic statistics, for most of obese children the values of the measuring items by ages appeared to be large, and the results of comparison with the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea made in 1997 showed that the values were more large than those of standard physical conditions. 2. It was shown that in the correlation between items the upper breast circumference had a high correlation with all items, and the weight did with the following items such as circumference, height, width and thickness. 3. The results of the principal component analysis showed that six main components hand an explainable power of more than 75.60% for all materials. The first factor was thickness and obesity of the upper body, the second one the height, the third one the length of front and rear sides, the fourth one the width of neck, the fifth one the length of shoulder, and the sixth one the breast width and the wrist circumference.
Historic Development of Navajo Textiles - Focus on the Regional Style Rug Period -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 97~104
-A Study on the Pattern of Censorship about Costumes - A Censorship about School Uniforms and Entertainer s Costumes -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 105~117
The purpose of this study is to reveal the existence of censorship in our country which was one of the method of wielding authority on bodies. For the purpose, the definition of censorship was studied through the concept of ′Symbolic Violence′ from Bourdieu and ′Panopticon′ from Foucault. A censorship can be defined as "all kinds of structural, systemical and psychological control mechanism on specific expression in our society". And follows historical consideration on censorship system from 1920′s to now in our country. The main subject consideration on censorship system from 1920′s to now in our country. The main subject consists of censorship system from 1920′s to now in our country. The main subject consists of censorships on midlle and high school uniforms and that of broadcasting deliberation about entertainer′s costumes.
A Study on the Specific Character of the High Income Woman-brackets Manner in Purchasing the Clothes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 119~128
This study gives information for the enterprise to map out a positive marketing strategy and facilitate a new product development by researching and analyzing the specific character of the high income woman-brackets. In order to do that, based upon the materials of the National Statistical office, I made a selection of the high income brackets, subdividing their scholastic ability into four serfs. The subject of the study was the women from twenties to sixties among customers of a high class dress shop in Taejeon. I made up 600 questionnaires for them. using 441 of these for the statistical analysis and making available the correlation analysis, the primary factor analysis, and
-test. This study is classified into the type of women customers purchasing clothes who are the high-income brackets. Intended to study a special quality of purchasing according to income. 1. The purchasing manner of the high-income brackets customers is exposed the luxurious vain purchasing manner, the rational reasonable manner, and idiosyncrasy individual manner in order 1) The consumer of the high-income brackets in general prefer to a high class clothes. In the contrast, low-income brackets prefer to rational reasonable consumption in spending money on clothes. 2) The favorite consumption manner of the high income brackets is the luxurious vain purchasing manner. This consumption values the more symbolic means the things show than owing the goods. 2. The higher standard of education and younger tends to be high in the luxurious, vain purchasing. 3. The unreasonable purchasing show an high irrelation at the impulse buying arid self-satisfaction. 4. Self-satisfaction shows the highest interrelation than any other variations in the concern of clothes. 5. The symbolic images which exerts an influence upon purchasing manner are the notable elements of constituting as growing older. 6. The high standard of education prefers to the rational resonable purchasing, but on the other hand shows a high rate at the unreasonable individual purchasing manner.
A Study on the Generation and Characteristic of New Fashion Found in Changes in Revolutionary Fashion - Focused on the New Look of Christian Dior -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 129~143
Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look Presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyse the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.
The Socio-cultural Meanings on Kitsch in Consumption of Fashion Products
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 145~162
This study focuses on how fashion products of our contemporary society of consumption are taking on a kitsch look, and on what kind of social and cultural meanings this phenomenon connotate. In general, kitsch is understood as an expression with a negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes. In our dairy life however kitsch has been highlighted as an another expressions of subjective beauty and gains positive meaning as almost all the people satisfy their desires through consumption of kitsch products. In order to prove the kitsch phenomenon in fashion products and social and cultural meanings, the researcher has Performed a case study on actual consumption of fashion products and the internal psychological meanings in fashion consumption. The internal psychological meanings of kitsch on consumption of fashion products are emotions and needs such as escape from reality. substitutional satisfaction, belonging confirmation, expression of individual taste, and fun, sexual amusements.
Aesthetic Images in Men s Bodies and Fashion(I) - Focused on Eroticism in Men s Fashion-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 1, 2001, Pages 163~174
The purpose of this study is to review the features of eroticism expressed in men's fashion, to explain psychological and social contexts which engender eroticism and to analyze in what way eroticism is portrayed in men s fashion in this context. Eroticism as the metonymy of forbidden sexual desire, has been embodied mostly in visual forms such as picture and photo. From a psychoanalytic view, the context in which eroticism is formed can be explained by primary narcissism and fetishism. Primary narcissism is the feeling of satisfaction with the self in which the subject who is admiring and the object of admiration are one and the same. Accordingly, in order to give rise to eroticism, both subject and object have to exist. Fetishism, the metonymy of castrated penis, is also one of the factors to produce eroticism. Metaphorically seen as a woman who has a penis, a man who dresses in the same manner as a woman dresses can be a source of eroticism to gays. From a sociological view, the context in which eroticism is fostered depends on the dynamic relations among social powers. In these relations, who is a subject or who is an object has been continuously changing. In the Post-modern culture appearing in the late 20th century, power begins to take various forms, and gays and women who had never been subjects begin to make man an object of eroticism. The other point is that social morality, ignoring desire itself, objectifies sexual desire and seeks to remove It by exchanging it for objectified symbols. The design elements provoking eroticism in men s fashion are exposure and decoration. In particular, models in exposure and decorative fashion have been objectified through the methods of fragmentation rather than showing the whole figure or removing a person s individuality or will,.