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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
A study on the Kuei of the Jade Tablet, Hole of the Ivory Tablet, Ancient Korea and China, Japan
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 5~25
Jade, which is a kind of stone, with its transparent body, lustrous and bright character, But jade is not the only fair stone. There are three kinds of jade objects 1) tallies used in the court. 2) ceremonial jades. 3) ordinary jade for decoration, for inlaid work and for burial. Among the ceremonial jade, the most important were the "liu jui" and "liu ch′i." The former was supposed to be held by people in the court as symbols of their authority : 1) "then-kuei(鎭圭)" for the emperor. 2) "hang-kuei(恒圭)" for a duke, 3) "hsin-kuei(信圭)" a marquis. 4) "kung-kuei(躬圭)" for an earl, these "kuei" were alike in shape, but differed in size. 4) "ku-pi(穀璧)" for a viscount. 5) "p′u-pi(蒲璧)" for a baron, "pi(璧)" differed in decoration but were alike in shape. "Liu ch′i(六器)" were ceremonial objects used by the emperor in worshipping Heaven, Earth, and the Four Directions : "ts′ang-pi(倉璧)," greenish jade disk, used in worthipping Heaven "huang-tsung(黃琮)," yellow jade cylinder, used in worshipping Earth ; "cuing-kuei,(靑圭)" blue jade tablet. used in worshipping the East : "chih-chang(赤璋)," red jade tablet, used in worshipping the South : "hsuan-huang(玄璜)," black crescent, used in worshipping the North. Five kinds of tallies were "chen-kuei(鎭圭)," "yenkuei(琰圭)," "yuan-kuei(玩圭)," "ku-kuei(穀圭)." They were used to console people during disaster, to subjugate an official who had committed a crime, to reward a prize to an official for his merit or good conduct, to arbitrate disputes between high officials, to marry princess. and to dispatch troops. Since the west wei(西魏), Kuei and Hole were made of Ivory, wood and bamboo, who had ivory for fifth grade and wood and bamboo for under sixth grade. After Eastern Chou, all officials beginning to had kuei hole. symbol of Authority. and his wives. After Dang dynasty, Japan is the same. In korea. After king Bupheung in ancient and South(unification) Silla, North Kingdom Bohai, Koryo, and Chosen dynasty had ceremonial jade, Kuei and Hole.
The Background and the Pursuits of Saenghwal Hanbok
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 27~42
The objectives of this study are to give a definition and to find out the background and the pursuits of Saenghwal Hanbok. Conclusions are described as follows : 1. Saenghwal Hanbok and Gaeryang Hanbok are used together at the same tome, but they are different the background and the pursuits. Gaeryang Hanbok was pursued practical aspects - activities, simplification, sanitation, courtesy, economy, and diversity. And then Saenghwal Hanbok was added the pursuits of Minjung's image, traditional image, modern esthetic. 2. The background of Saenghwal Hanbok is divided into two group. One is the Minjung Hanbok in University, and the other is the recreated Hanbok in mass fashion. The former was effected to youth culture, political quarrel of culture movement, anti-government group. The Latter was a tendency toward reviving the tradition. 3. The characters of Saenghwal Hanbok were a national tradition, a resistance. the image of poor Minjung, a revival of the tradition, and a diversity and negotiation of post-modernism.
A Study on Mosaic Pattern in Modern Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 43~52
The purpose of this research is to study the aesthetic character of a mosaic which is expressed in the Modern Costume. The methods of the research were by literature and it was mainly done with reference to master's theses, doctor's theses, separate volumes, periodicals, domestic and overseas fashion magazines and internet on the subject. The result of the research appears as rhythm, exoticism, abstraction, mystery, recreation by disintegration. First, rhythm appears in a sense of free rhythm with the method of arranging motives and the kinds of materials varying. Second, exoticism gives impression with such motives as Oriental designs, African designs and the geometric designs of nature occupying the surface. Third, abstraction displays motives such as unrealistic fashion. Fourth, mystery gives a cyber-related impression with the help of such scientific materials as fluorescent plastics, metal and glass. Fifth, recreation pelves an aesthetic impression by reorganizing the costume with the disintegration and transformation of Industrial materials such as plastics, metal and glass, etc. based on their unique colors and quality.
A Study on Stock Management and Reduction for Apparel Industry
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 53~64
The purpose of this study is to create the program for efficient inventory management and reduction, investigating the present conditions and factors of the inventory throughout current apparel industry. The research method applied in this study is to survey 92 domestic companies which were randomly selected with respect to the kinds of goods produced : men′s wear, women′s wear, and unisex wear. The research can be summarized as follows : 1. The seasonal stock rate of current apparel industry was 28.75%, and the rate of men′s wear companies was higher than that of women′s and unisex wear companies. 19.43% of stock cost reflection rate was applied, and the stack cost of men′s and women′s wear companies was higher than that of unisex wear companies. 2. Periodic bargain sale was the most frequently used way of stock clearance, and "uniform price sale"and outlet stores were the second and the third irrespectively. Unisex wear companies appeared to be more enthusiastic in stock clearance than the companies belonging to the other two categories. The main places for the stock clearance were department stores, outlet stores and enterprises specialized in the stock clearance. 3. QR production was proved to be the most commonly adjusted method of stock reduction, and the emphasis on development of new design and the utilization of stock management system through computer network were the next, While unisex wear companies had established the positive policies, men′s wear companies took lukewarm altitudes in every aspect. The companies selling on an order were 18.64%, and unisex wear companies showed the higher rate. The lead-time after QR production was 10.91 days, and it seemed to take more time for men′s wear companies than for women′s and unisex wear companies. The rate of the chance in stock was proved to decrease by 12.94%, and there was found no meaningful difference among the three categories of apparel companies.
A Study on the Terms of the Costume in the Koryo Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 65~78
The costume history of Koryo Dynasty is well-known as having many undiscovered area. This is because there are only few records in that times. Futhermore the previous studies only quote the records such like
, and their investigations are restricted. This paper quotes all kinds of literature which can show the costume of Koryo Dynasty. First it collects all the terms of the costume in the literature and classified them by those properties. Also, this study shows the characteristics of the costume in the Koryo Dynasty by reanalying the terms. This study is restricted on the costume of everyday wear
The Influence of College Student s Anxiety on Clothing Benefits Sought
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 79~92
The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of anxiety and demographic variables on clothing benefits sought of college students. The subjects were 600 college students in Seoul, Korea (male 218, female 382). Five factors of clothing benefit sought derived by factor analysis : F.1 status symbol : F.2 fashion : F.3 economic : F.4 management : F.5 comfort . The poverty and the opposite sex anxiety had positive relations with status symbol and fashion in both male and female. In case of the female, the poverty and the opposite sex anxiety had negative relations with comfort. The female gave more importance to status symbol and fashion than the male did, but the male gave more importance to comfort of clothing than the female did. Status symbol of clothing was influenced by clothing expenditure and the poverty anxiety in the male(
.349), and influenced by clothing expenditure, the poverty anxiety, and ail academic fear in the female(
A Study on the Shroud around Kwanju and Chonnam Area
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 93~103
This Study shows local characters, meaning, value and others (kind, function, material, shape, name) on Shroud through documents and fact-finding survey. In Shroud′s kind and function, Shroud of Kwangju Area is similar with one of Youngsan-river Area, while Sumjin-river Area and Coastal Area, each has its own character due to difference of Burial Culture. In Shroud′s Material, hemp cloth, white cotton cloth and calico, have been well-used in Kwangju and Youngsan-river Area, while silk has used in Sumjin-river and Coastal Area. Shroud′s color has followed Natural color. In Shroud′s shape, Male Jeoksam, Female Trousers, Um, Myokmok, Aksoo, Bib have their local characters. They are reformed in Kwangju Area and Youngsan-river Area. Jeoksam in Coastal Area, Female Trousers in Sumjin-river Area. Um in Coastal Area and Myokmok in Sumjin-river Area, have its unique character. In Shroud′s name, Shroud has widely been called "Dead Clothes", and called "Blind Clothes", "Munnyung Clothes" some areas. In Sumjin-river Area, Summer Jacket has been failed "Deungjigae", Dango called "Ddangjungwee". In Coastal Area, Myokmok and Aksoo have been called "Face Cover" and "Hands Cover", Shroud′s local characters have been caused by Next World, which has reflected local natural environment and cultural features. Next World is so abstract that it can not be expressed well, while Reality is clearly divided into dual spaces : Real World, Next World. Comprehension on Next World, helps harmonize recent values with Shroud meaning and prevents Shroud from standardization and transformation.
The Influence of Sense of Self-efficiency in the Course of the Decision for Clothing Purchase
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 105~120
The purpose of this study is to identify the relationship of self-efficacy, which is a kind of the self concept about one's own ability, to the decision-making process, which is the key part of consumer behavior. The subjects in this study were 985 male and female undergraduates of a university located in the city of Kyongsan, the north Kyongsang province. The collected data were statistically processed by MANOVA and ANOVA. For post test, Scaffle and
-test were employed. The followings are findings of this study : 1. Concerning incentive to buying, the group having the weaker general self-efficacy is stimulated more highly by the incentives of self-display, fashion pursuit and economic utility than the group having the stronger general self-efficacy does. 2. Regarding information sources. the factor of observation is frequently used by the group having the weaker general and social self-efficacies more than the group having the stronger general and social self-efficacies. 3. As to the evaluative criteria of clothes, the group having the stronger general and social self-efficacies put a higher value on functional and economical points than the group having the weaker general and social self-efficacies does. 4. As for the evaluative criteria of store the group having the stronger general self-efficacy lays stress on store atmosphere, store attributes and convenient shopping condition, while the group having the weaker general self-efficacy puts emphasis on brand and fashion. 5. In buying apparels, the group having the stronger general and social self-efficacies makes more planned purchase.
A Study on Adult Women′s Clothing Shopping Orientation and Response to the Shop-master s Attitude
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 121~133
The study is designed to classify consumer groups based on their clothing shopping orientation and to examine the relationship among clothing shopping orientation, satisfaction to the shop-master, and factors of the shop-master's nature to understand clothing shopping orientation of women from 18 to 35. The final analysis was performed with 447 (consumers) ailed 336 (shop-masters) pieces of questionnaire. The data was analysed with SAS statistics package. The results of this study are as follows : 1. Clothing shopping orientation were composed of four dimensions : recreational shopping orientation, convenience/economic shopping orientation, store/brand loyalty shopping orientation, and shopping confidence. 2. In the satisfaction to the shop-master, the consumer was not satisfied by the appearance, product-presentation, and consumer-management of the shop-master but kindness, trust, and product-explanation by the shop-master. The shop-master guessed that consumers were completely satisfied. 3. The consumer had an influence on product-understanding, response, and consumer-understanding of the shop-master, and the shop-master guessed that consumers had an influence on every thing of shop-master. 4. The more consumers were store/brand loyal, the more they were satisfied with tole shop-master, and had an influence on the factors of the shop-master's nature. But consumers were confident on the shopping, were not shown to be significantly different in the satisfaction of the shop-master and the factors of the shop-master's nature.
A Study on the Measuring Rule for Korean Traditional Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 135~148
The measuring rule Is to extimate a size of a physical solid and its standard was each part of body since the beginning of the world. Korean traditional measuring rule was "Kyul Boo Sok Pa Bob". It bases on wreth of farm land and means a handful and a bundle. It was the real Korean traditional measuring rule though it was a influence on Chinese rule. And in Koguryo it had an effect on Japanese′s. In Chosun dynasty the King Sejong imprived the measuring rule and regylations in such a way to meet the realistic needs of civil lives. He put in good order by a proportions of the musical scale. It was one of fille correct ways to preserve the measuring rule and based on "Kyul Beo Sok Pa Bob"too. So ill that time the measuring rule for Korean traditional costume′s length was 46.703cm. In king Soonjo it′s length was 49.254cm and in 1926 it changed 50cm by the metric system. In 1990s the standard length has a difference in regions, 30cm, 45cm, 50cm, 54.5cm, 55cm and 60cm. As a result of the actual object investigation by regional measuring rule for Korean traditional costume it can reduce an accidental error when use the standard measuring rule, 50cm.
A Study on the Multiculturalism Phenomena Expressed in Contemporary Fashion of the End twentieth century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 149~167
Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.
Study on the Femininity and the Ideal Beauty of Body Implied in the fashion and the Anti-fashion Movement in the Victorian Period (I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 169~180
This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.
A Study on the Fashion Illustration Using Fractal Programs
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 181~192
Men study the nature in two ways. Scientists and mathematicians inquire a branch of those two ways. Mathematical formulations are the tools and the expressions of their nature. Meanwhile, the other branch, the art, alms for different inquiry. Instead of formulating the nature, the artists create their masterpieces from their ultimate source, the Mother Nature. For thousands of years these two branches have grown together, influencing each others work. Some mathematicians find that formulation, are not enough to fully express the beauty of nature. It is believed that such a simple expression, formula, easily omits the careful details of nature. The nature is simply too chaotic to be shaped with a formula. Of those mathematicians, Mandelbrot, one of the first to realize this matter, introduced the world of fractal geometry. Fractals give new possibilities. It allows us not to limit ourselves to linear prospect, rather a whole new view of this chaotic beauty of the nature. A popular practice to understand fractals is in costume design. The artistic characteristic and organization mechanism is appalled to costumes. Meanwhile, another practice, rather aggressive, is using computer to create an image of fractals. This image is then used for motives to generate artistic expressions. Computer and paper ironing technique is used for fashion illustration in this research. The works were synthesized arid transformed from computer programs. To add more traditional painting touch to this work, Paper ironing technique was used. Since the of effect of this technique is so random, irregular, and unordered, it corresponds to fractal consideration. This thesis asserts an another prospect to fractal as a structural way of describing nature ailed fashion illustration, rather than restricting it to only mathematical theory
A Study on the Diffusion and Change of the Korean Hip-length Jacket
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 2, 2001, Pages 193~203
The hip-length jacket(유) worn by the Korean from the ancient times is tole prototype of the contemporary jacket. Hip-length jacket was transferred to Japan and worn by all the people beyond the class. From 12C, the King and the high class people wore the clothing influenced by Tang(唐) country but the common people continuously wore the hip-length jacket. Currently the hip-length jacket is worn by the merchant and is used as the clothing of the celebration. The hip-length jacket has not been much changed in terms of the form.