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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
A Case Study on a Woman′s Excavated costumes in the 17th century - Based on the excavation of the Mrs. KyungJu Lee gave in Young-am, Chonnam -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 5~14
Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.
Optical illusions in Clothing Form Designs for the Ideal Beauty of Human bodies - from the Ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 15~30
The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.
Analysis of Young Adult Information Concentrating on the Significance of Application of Cartoon Characters on Garments
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 31~42
The purpose of this study was to develop a large representative data base for character goods marketing strategy. The study was to determine character name awareness in relation to segmented distribution regions and such demographic variables as sex and age. The author also analyzed preferred design. A total of 360 questionnaires were distributed and 359 reliable ones were used for statistical analysis. A SAS statistical package including frequency tables and Chi square test and factor analysis and Kendall′s relation analyses was used. The results are as follow : character name awareness involves "character name decognition" based on asking subjects to identify character names from 50 given names. "Tele-tubbies" was found to be a dominant commercial character name as a result of the recognition test, and "Sailer-moon" was found to be a dominant animation character goods as a result of the recognition test. Character recognition was significantly different in the segmented distribution legions, three age groups and different sex groups. People considered design first in purchasing any character goods, and they considered color second in purchasing them. The most favored part of garment far character to be stitch to was the center front in the T-shirt/dress shirt, the center back in the Jumper/jacket, back pocket in the trousers/skirt. The results of a Chi-square test showed that preferred part in the trousers/skirt of character was related with age variables.
A Study on the Influence of I.M.F. System on Domestic Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 43~56
Articles on fashion of major daily newspapers for about one years after I.M.F. system were analyzed. The influence of I.M.F. system, values, the importance of costumes at economic crisis were studied through fashion at that time. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. Costumes made in Korea, national brands In Korean words, practical styles, multi-functional design, economic tastes and mixed fashions were emphasized. 2. The sound and patriotic values were pursued through domestic fashion and creative ideas were developed to overcome economic crisis. 3. The meaning of costumes was still important under shrink of consumption. Costumes were useful tools to estimate ability and express aesthetic appreciation. The sound fashion trends under I.M.F. system reflect the reflection on overconsume and the will to overcome economic crisis. Such trends should be fixed for the establishment of economic prosperity for the nation.
A Study on the Costume Represented in Clay Figures of Ancient Shilla Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 57~69
The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented In human clay figures of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows: 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb. At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat, a Jacket, a checked pants. The brimed-triangular hat is decorated with bird-feather shape. Besides, a jacket is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block of back. Also round bells are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 In connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back. Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood, a Jacket, a pants with vertical stripes. and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures. The hats examined from other clay figures are \circled1 Triangular hat, \circled2Hat decorated with bird-feather shape, \circled3 Brined hat and \circled4 Hairband type hempen hood. Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are \circled1 a topknot, \circled2 a slanted topknots, \circled3 two topknots on both sides, \circled4(round) chignon, \circled5 hair tied at the top and plastered down, and tile last, \circled6 ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket and a pants.
Performance as a factor in the Contemporary Fashion Show - focus on the Paris and London collections Since the 1990s -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 71~80
Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.
Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s Tomb
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 81~95
The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3
1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.
Consumers Preference and Dissatisfaction on knitted Golf Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 97~112
The purposes of this study were to investigate consumers preference and dissatisfied factors in knitted golf wear The 430 questionnaires were sent to consumers who live in the Seoul Metropolitan district including Pundang-city and Iisan-city, The return rate was 89.5%. Statistical devices were t-test, ANOVA,
2. frequency with SAS program. The results of this study were as follows: First, Preferred colors were pastel, straw yellow, and black in descending order. Preferred coordination was analogous rather than complementary coordination. The classical look with T-neck, pullover, and V-neck was preferred. The preferred materials were pure cotton and cotton/wool blend in solid colors or plain and intasia structure. There were significant differences that pure cotton was preferred the forties and fifties or housewife, and cotton blend was preferred the thirties or service jobholders. Second, dissatisfied factors were pilling, deformation and de-coloration. The pilling problem was indicated in all income levels. Customers complained about no exchange and no refund policy with sales persons'discourtesy and time delay for repairing.
A Study of Costume in Three Han Era - researching into the "Samkukgy"Tongyjeon -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 113~128
The objective of this study is to research the costume of Three Han to be recorded in -
Tongyjeon. They were written tattoos, broad head, physique, hair style, dress. accessories-lnsu, beads, head dress, shoes and cloths in Tongy-jeon. The results of this study are as fellows: Tattoos were common in Three Han. Those may be carved by chinese ink on body except a face. Broad head was Byonhan and Jinhan s customs. The physique of Mahan and Byonhan s men was tall and big. The hair style was just topknot not to put on a hat in Mahan, long hair In Byonhan and short hair for slaves in Jinhan. And then tattoos, flat head and skull, long hair style were the southern style. The dresses were two piece style-po and trousers. The shoes were made of leather. Those were the northern style. Eui-Chek, In-Su were royal gift of china. And they put valuable on beads, not gold, silver and golden embroidery cloths. This was different from other countries, And so we can find the variety of cultures at that time. The varieties came from the southern, northern, china and unique style.
A Study on the Theatre Costume Design of Picasso - Focus on Parade -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 129~139
Picasso had deep concern at the designs of theatre costumes as well as art. The art of Picasso influenced deeply to the fashion designs in those days. In these study, to analyze the creative theatre costumes of Parade affected by Picasso's cubism, we investigate the documentary records, photos, and sketches of Picasso. The design of theatre costumes in Parade was able to be divided by two categories, general theatre costumes and experimental theatre costumes. The first characteristic of general theatre costumes is that the designs of theatre costumes in Parade were influence by the early stages of Picasso's art. The costumes of the Chinese Conjurer influenced by the Red Era of Plcasso's art and those of the Little American Girl and the Acrobats influenced by the Blue Era of Picasso art may belong to the category of general theatre costumes. The second characteristic of general theatre costumes is the fact that the images of heavenly bodies were used in the costume of the Chinese Conjure and the Acrobats. The characteristic of experimental theatre costumes is the fact that the cubism is introduced to the designs of theatre costumes in Parade. The experimental theatre costumes were presented in the costumes of the Three Managers which were newly created under the influence of Picasso's cubism.
A study on the Moaning of Appropriation Inherited in the Modern Costumes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 4, 2001, Pages 141~163
This study was to analyse the meanings of the appropriation inherited in the modern costumes from the latter of the 20th century to the present. According to the dictionary, the meanings of a word. "appropriation" is to steal something, used in order to avoid saying this directly. The sorts of the appropriation represented in the works of Art was as follow : First. the reconstruction by the imitation of the works of a great master or partly induction of the works of a great master Second, the introduction by the history, modern art, the image of popular culture Third, the imitation by the works of photograph, etc The appropriation in the modern costumes could be distinguished as two facts : First, the appropriation of the image of popular culture, 1) the way by the induction of popular factors of the extremely routine, commonplace character 2) the way by the citation of critical sentence of society, complaint message of the situation of times. Second, the reinterpretation of the past works : 1) the way by the reinterpretation of a great artist′s works, or popular works. In accordance with its change of a standard of value of the beauty, the products of modern culture, called the artificial second image, that is, popular factor, ready made factor, a signboard, a trademark etc, was appropriated in modern costumes and was reinterpreted by the works of fashion designer′s empathy. We can say that the modern costumes is not only the products of creative, original action of fashion designers but also the mirror of times, having relationship with society.