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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
The Relationships between Body Cathexis and Clothing Satisfaction of Middle- and High-School Girls
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 5~16
The purpose of the study was to investigate the body cathexis, ideal body shape, clothing satisfaction and their interrelationships. The subjects were 445 middle- and high- school girls. The findings were as follows : the subjects were more satisfied with their face appearance than body parts. They were very unsatisfied with thigh. leg and weight. Generally they were more satisfied with upper body than lower body, and more satisfied with length measurements than girth measurements. They accepted 169.19cm as ideal height and 49.18kg as ideal weight. The middle-school girls wanted to be taller than high-school girls by 3cm. But the ideal weight of both were almost same. The Rohrer indices indicated that the subjects were normal to slender type. But the Rohrer indices calculated using ideal height and ideal weight showed that the subjects thought extremely slender type as ideal body shape. The attitude of body was evaluated by two factors. the awareness of body shape and the physical attractiveness. The awareness of body shape was deeply influenced by girth measurements and lower body parts. And physical attractiveness was severely affected by face appearance. Weight was more important than height in regard to body cathexis. The ideal body shape was independent of individual situation but was formed by social value. The satisfaction of clothing in terms of design related aspects was influenced by body cathexis. Also the more satisfied with their body. the more they felt comfortable for their clothing. The body cathexis was interrelated with the satisfaction of clothing in some aspects.
A Study on the Oriental Mode in nth Century Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 17~28
The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.
A Sales Promotion Strategy for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes Using Database Marketing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 29~43
Database marketing is a series of marketing activities based on the customer database for increasing the customer's life-time value. In this thesis. we applied database marketing to the sales promotional strategies of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes to activate wearing of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. To achieve this goal, we surveyed the consciousness of wearing and purchases for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. and extract information that can be utilized in the sales promotional strategies. According to the result, the proposed sales promotional strategies for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes are summarized as follows : (1) Useful information for the customer should be stored in the database and utilized in the marketing. (2) It is necessary to shorten the cycle of repeated purchases by emphasizing daily-life clothing of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes especially for the aged 20-40. (3) Since Casual Korean Traditional Clothes are usually weared as a ceremonial clothes in the fall, direct mail, fashion show, and advertising in the mass media should be concentrated on this season. (4) Value-added marketing should be derived by cross-selling of items harmonized with Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. (5) To guarantee fixed customers and increased usage of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes, - give point score, discount, or selling on an installment basis for the customers who use credit cards or department cards. - select privileged customers by analyzing purchase history and provide multiple services for these customers. - let the customers rent Casual Korean Traditional Clothes in an appropriate cost, and make customer cards for the construction of elaborated customer database. (6) To increase the acknowledgement of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes, not only Persistent publicity, but also fashion show, visual merchandising, and advertisement in mass media should be conducted as well.
A Study on Character of Religious Motive in Modern Fashion Design of 1990 s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 45~59
The purpose of this study is to investigate the religious motive and to clarify the relation between religion and fashion and to predict the trends in the future fashion by analyzing the religious motive in the aspects of inner meanings and methods. 1. We can see ego-superiority as inner meanings of religious motive is expressed mysterious image. Mysterious feeling is reflected in modem fashion in the form of the transparency of light and mysterious color in religious painting that is reemerged as a gorgeous and luxurious sense or it is reflected in modern fashion in the form of borrowing grand ways of art and elements of clothing. And this results from longing for aristocratic gorgeousness and from desire for light that is based on love and salvation. 2. We can see religious motive in modern fashion is a will to be converted to religion because of fin de sie-cle anxiety, and this is reemerged in modem fashion as borrowing of religious symbols in the casual wear or as combination of sacred religious motive with vulgar image and they are going to get mental satisfaction by this. 3. Religious motive has the inner meanings of ethic completion and this is reemerged through covering bodies, minimizing details and using dark tone color by having an inspiration in religious clothing. And this results from antipathy to extreme gorgeousness of modern fashion and excessive exposure and from mental desire for returning to an inner nature.
A Specific Character of Fashion-Presentation in the Korean Music stars since 1990s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 61~75
This study was intended to observe strategic fashion-presentation in Music stars according to the change of the star system in the Korean popular musics. The Korean Music stars since 1990s have been made, fabricated and have excessively depended on the demand of the teenagers. Therefore their distinctive fashion-presentation is considered as more important element than those of the past. Consequently. the characteristics of the fashion-presentation in the Korean Music star these days are as follows : First. Music stars shows fashion-presentation that has a consistent fashion theme. That is one of the key success factor to raise the recognition of star singer. Second. Music star produces fashion images which reflects identity and of subculture. Those appearance have won wild popularity of the Peeps 1990's new generation. Third. although there is no change music genre and emotion. through merely renovation of their fashion image, Music star got diversity and originality of the characteristics of contemporary cultural goods. Fourth. In case of famous dance groups, in the past they maintained a singular atmosphere as a group, but in 1990'Music star group each members of the group have individually fashion-presentation. So, they can get more fans. Fifth, Music singers borrow or duplicate fashion-presentation from each others. Such as similar fashion-presentation guarantees support of the same fans.
The Effects of Social Self-Efficacy on Clothing Attitude and Degree of Make-up Depending on Depression and Stress
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 77~94
This study focuses on finding out what effects the social self-efficacy of the depression and stress of the women in the age group ranging from 20s to 40s have on women's clothing attitude and the degree of make-up. The subjects for this study are 1,140, in number, in their 20s to 40s residing in Daegu Metropolitan City. To find out whether or not the social self-efficacy on clothing attitude(fashion conformity, interest), and make-up will cause differences in depression and stress, MANOVA was conducted. For details of the main effects and correlations. ANOVA was conducted. The results of this study were as follows : 1. The group with higher social self-efficacy showed higher degree of fashion and interest. In conformity, the group with lower social self-efficacy showed a higher degree than its opposite group. The group with higher social self-efficacy revealed a higher extent in make-up. 2. The group with higher tendency for depression showed a stronger tendency in pursuing fashion and interest. On the other hand, the group with a lower tendency for depression showed a higher degree of conformity. The group with higher tendency for depression showed a higher degree of make-up. 3. In the group with higher social self-efficacy, the one with lower tendency for depression pursued fashion and make-up more positively. 4. In the group with higher social self-efficacy, the one with lower tendency for depression pursued conformity more strongly. On the other hand, interest was pursued more strongly by the group with higher social self-efficacy and with higher tendency for depression
원대자묘 벽화 주인공 복식에 관한 연구 - 고구려 복식과의 관련성을 중심으로 -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 95~111
The purpose of this study is to analyze the costumes of the master in Yuantaizi(원대자) tumulus murals and to examine the relation to the costumes of Koguryo(고구려). The Master appeared in Yuantaizi Tumulus Murals wear Wuguan(무관), Pingshangze(평상장) and Pao(포) These costumes were used as chaofu(조복) by Han race(한족) at that time. It is believed that Yuantaizi tumulus belongs to a tomb of Qian Yan(전연). So we can conclude that Qian Yan accepted costume systems of Han race. And similar costumes appear in Tumulus Murals of Koguryo built around Pyungyang(평양) and Anak(안악) in 4∼5 century. Especially the master's costumes of Anak Tomb No.3(안악3호분) are nearly the same as Yuantaizi's. Maybe it is closely related to the fact that the master of Anak Tomb No.3 is Dongsu (동수) who defected from Qian Yan.
A Study on Hybrid Expressed in Modern Fashion - Focusing on the End of 1990s -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 113~134
This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.
Impact of Women in 20s Sensation Seeking Tendency and Clothing Attitudes upon Brand Variety Seeking
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 135~145
In this study, investigation into the impact of sensation seeking tendency and clothing attitudes upon brand variety seeking will be made through the presentation of sensation seeking tendency as consumer's motivation of clothing behavior and clothing attitude as parameter. To give goals of this study. First, to help the understanding of consumers by elucidating consumer's psychological characteristics against sensation seeking tendency, clothing attitude and diverse brands seeking. Second, to offer standard for specifying market by presenting theoretical as well as empirical data. Third. to create successful marketing strategy according to consumer groups and moreover to increase sales efficiency. Research results are as follows : As a result of investigating on which factor among sensation seeking tendency affects on seeking various brands, change seeking tendency and aesthetic seeking impact upon seeking various kinds of brands. Change seeking is turned out to be the most influential factor. Fashion leadership, fashion innovativeness, attention concentration, social approval and clothing interest had an impact on diverse kinds of brand seeking: there was a positive relations with fashion leadership. attention concentration. clothing interest and fashion innovativeness, whereas a negative link with social approval. Three factors of sensation seeking tendency, two factors, that is change seeking and aesthetic seeking. have direct and indirect paths that lead to diverse brand seeking, via clothing attitude. that is to say, clothing interest. fashion leadership. social approval and attention concentration. On the other hand, thrill and risk seeking only had indirect path. Aesthetic seeking showed higher significance to indirect effect on diverse brand seeking which takes clothing attitude as a parameter, than that of direct effect. Brand variety seeking was under considerable effect of fashion leadership, clothing interest and attention concentration. in order
The Influence of Color Autonomy in Matisse Paintings on Modern Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 147~156
The painting style has much influenced on the creativity of design in the developmental process of modern fashion. This fact tells that pure art and fashion design have the same purpose in the end. In this paper. the color Autonomy of Matisse was analyzed and how its result influences on modern fashion design was investigated. Matisse is, in fact. the leader of Fauvism and the painter who brought the Fauvism painting to its perfection in the purest state. Matisse achieved the revolution of new color with only the color in expressing formative factor. Matisse's color autonomy are fusion technique, flatness, decoration, simplicity, etc. To sum up the influence that this autonomy played on modern fashion design, intensive pure color expression, strongly-supplemented color effect among primary colors, decoration of color, simplicity of color, that is to say. he gave rise to the revolution of color, Many modern designers are applying this method to the theme of fashion and motive, color the technique of expression. Thanks to this. the new formative artistic expression could be adapted in fashion, and it also induced the inspiration of original design, with great contribution to bringing the era of its own distinct individualism in modern times.
A Study on the Blistery of Western Shoes and Their Aesthetic Value
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 5, 2001, Pages 157~173
In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.