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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
STUDY ON FEMINITY AND THE IDEAL BEAUTY OF BODY IMPLIED IN THE FASHION AND THE ANTI-FASHION MOVEMENT IN THE VICTORIAN PERIOD (II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 5~24
This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.
A Study on Long-guan Costume to restore Clay Figures in Bu-yeo Jeong-lim Buddist Temple Foundation
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 25~38
The purpose of this study is to investigate the character and costume of the long-guan clay figures that were excavated in Bu-yeo Jeong-lim Buddist temple foundation. For this, we first examine the Chinese official uniforms with long-guan, classify the types of long-guan, and then investigate the costume that is worn with long-guan. There are three types of long-guan in China, and that of the clay figures in Jeong-lim Buddist temple foundation is of type 1. Therefore, the characters of the clay figures are woman servants, and their costume is either blouse-and-trousers or blouse-and-skirt.
A Study on the Wearing Test of High Functional Girdle
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 39~51
The purpose of this study is to offer basic data to manufacture superior girdle, by finding out wearing effect and wearing comfort after select high-functional Girdle and usual girdle on the market, and by analyzing the features of superior girdle in wearing effect and comfort. The results of this research are as follows : 1. As a result of surveying on the wearing feeling of girdle, the tightening effect of high-functional girdle was high. In particular. high-functional long type girdle was excellent as for tightening thigh, but usual girdle was excellent as for general comfortable feeling. In the Questions for comparison and evaluation, the frequency of high-functional long type girdle was highest. 2. As a result of examining the wearing comfort and effect of girdle by each type, the wearing effect of high-functional long type girdle was superior, and the wearing feeling of high-functional long type girdle was higher relatively than that of other types. But, from questions on comfortable feeling, the wearing feeling of usual long type girdle was superior. Generally, the wearing feeling and effect of high-functional long type girdle were superior, since the abdomen was pressed by high-waist type hard material and increased functionality such as attaching treatment to support hip and double treatment to tighten a thigh.
A Study on the Costume of Priest depicted in the Old Testament
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 53~65
The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual structure of costume of priest with symbol through the Old Testament. Based on corroborative the Old Testament, this thesis analyzes the costume of priest. This compares Aaron with his sons. This compares the two onyx stones on the shoulder pieces with four rows of precious stones on the breastpiece. This compares the robe with the woven tunic. This era falls on about from the 15th century before Christ. The crafts men whom God have endowed with skill make the vestments. Due to the christian religion, the body was entirely concealed. The costume of priest were not only used as dignity but also grandeur. According to the Old Testament the colour of the costume has signified not only the colour sense but also important symbolic meanings. The priest wore, over undergarments, a woven tunic, and he wore over the tunic, a robe, an ephod, a breastpiece, a sash, using a turban as head covering. Gold, and blue, purple and scarlet yarn, and fine linen are used. Aaron and his sons must wear them whenever they enter the Tent of Meeting or approach the altar to minister in the Holy Place, so that they will not incur guilt and die.
A Study on the Aesthetic Consciousness in the late Modernism Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 67~83
The purpose of this study is to define the aesthetic consciousness in the late Modernism fashion which generated a sudden style change and craze, and to identify the essential meaning of the style. In order to achieve this the aesthetic approach was applied. Visual commonalities were sought between fashion and contemporary architecture, furniture, ceramic and metalware, to lead to a deeper insight into the aesthetic consciousness. Common visual characteristics are curvedness of the line, obliqueness of the line, asymmetry of the form, exaggeration of the form and symbolic nature of the form. The content which can be analogized from the visual characteristics are the beauty of the nature, the beauty of the glamourous feminity, the beauty of the ideal and the beauty of the creative personality. In the creating process, the existential aspect of human being became a focus of attention, and human being's subjectivity operated as a principal force. In the late Modernism fashion, the appreciator's aesthetic experience became more important, and the appreciator's psychological satisfaction and pleasure were considered in the creative process. Fashion, architecture and crafts, which fulfill functional duties in everyday life, facilitated the appreciator's aesthetic experience through empathy. This study inquires into the relationship between aesthetic consciousness and visual form. This study offers meaning because to uncover the connoted aesthetic consciousness in the late Modernism fashion is to pursue the roots of current aesthetic consciousness and it is hoped that in doing so this study will provide a basis for interpreting and understanding today's fashion style.
A Study on Design Features of Unisex Young Casual Wear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 85~99
A Study of The Fabrics for Enshrining Oblations inside a Buddhist Statue in MoonSoo Temple
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 101~115
This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.
Discriminative Factors of Buying Intention in Fashion Internet Shopping
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 117~128
The purposes of this study was to investigate discriminative factors of clothing buying intention on Internet shopping mall. The sample included 435 male(44.8%) and female(55.2% ) adults, and an instrument was developed based on previous studies. The statistical analysis used for this study were factor analysis, 1-test, and LISREL. The results of factor analysis showed that consumers evaluated apparel internet shopping attributes based on perceptional dimensions of internet shopping consisted of clothing quality and value. web service quality and value, and adoption of internet shopping. Each dimension has sub-factors as follows: (1) clothing quality was perceived as 'artistry' 'sociality' and 'practicality'. (2) web interface service quality was perceived as 'visuality', 'advantage', 'response', 'dependability' and 'buying-confidence'. (3) internet shopping adoption was perceived as 'usefulness' and 'convenience'. T-test revealed that consumer's buying intention, re-entry intention, and store attitude were differed concerning all sub-factors including 'usefulness' and 'convenience' in adoption of Internet shopping dimension. As a result of LISREL, clothing buying intention path model was set up as following path. (1) 'artistry', 'sociality' and 'practicality' of clothing quality affected clothing value perception positively. (2) 'visuality', 'advantage', 'response' and 'buying-confidence' of web service quality affected web service value perception positively. (3) clothing and web service value perception affected store attitude positively. (4) store attitude affected clothing buying intention positively. However, Adoption of Internet shopping dimension that was perceived as usefulness and convenience did not affect clothing buying intention path model. Therefore, consumers buying, intention model in internet circumstance could be used nearly the same as real market circumstance.
The Plasticity and Image of Socks and Stockings
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 129~145
Socks and stockings played a role as the first clothing covering foots and legs in ancient times. During the Middle Age they have represented clothing for legs and have been transformed into plasticity and aesthetic outlets for human beings aesthetic desire. Recently in around 1980 various experiments have been tried on them as part of total fashion changing as fashion trends changes. In 1990s the industry of socks and stocking in Korea has grown up as niche market, increasing the export amount twice as much as before. Therefore, this paper reveals the plasticity through historical study of socks and stockings. The purpose of this research is to analyse the plasticity by image classification of socks and stockings in 1990s on the basis of historical studies, which will be the basic data for developing high value added products. The major plasticity features of socks and stockings are material, technic, formativeness, ornament, color in a word. In 1990s the images of socks and stockings are classified into romantic, sporty, ethnic, ecology, avant- garde image. In 20th century knit and nylon became common and the part of the total fashion, completing the whole fashion.
A Study on Contemporary Fashion Expressed in Haute Couture
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 147~165
Haute couture denotes a luxurious made-to-order dressmaker's shop. In principle, it refers to a place that is registered with the Paris Apparel Association and has met the size and criteria specified by the association. The features of modern fashion expressed in haute couture have been contemplated by categorizing them into mixed impression appearing in haute couture work pieces. turning the collection event into a spectacle and commercialization for the succession of haute couture. Mixed impression manifested in the haute couture has engendered (1) the creative and dynamic feature (2) eclecticism with popular culture (3) mixed impression of reactionism (4) ethnic characteristics. From the above considerations, one could say that the factors drive the very existence of haute couture and comprise three elements of impeccable backgrounds, They are (1) organizing ability and protective policies of the French fashion industry, (2) relentless experimental spirit of the haute couture designers and (3) Paris that supports creativity and fashion fabrication, have coincided with rising up of the value of persistence on originality of work pieces in accordance with diversifying cultural transformations. consumer-oriented patterns by way of capital symbolized by consumers and restructuring of company operation by each shop. This report describes comprehensive understanding of haute couture, creativity and dynamic power of the haute couture work pieces. Akin to the efforts to maintain the existence of high-grade cultures throughout the overall cultures themselves, haute couture, on the basis of these factors, should also become the motive power through which luxurious culture in fashion is created in the days ahead.
A Study on Body Types of Mongolian Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 6, 2001, Pages 167~176
This study analyzes characterization and classification of body types of Mongolian women aged 18∼39 ages. The anthropometric measurements of the research subjects come up to a total of 23 items and are summarized as follows : 1. As the results of comparative analysis of the body measurements by age group, 16 items show a significant difference except shoulder height, thigh girth, neck base girth, back length shoulder length, sleeve length and weight. Both age group are considered to be of average weight but 25 to 39 age group were slightly greater than that of the 18 to 24 age group. 2. As the results of factor analysis, 4 factors such as the first factor on the obesity of body, the second factor on the vertical size of body, the third factor on the back length, the forth factor on the shoulder width and neck base girth were extracted. 3. As the results of classification based on the duster analysis, the body types were classified into 3 types in each age group. In each age group the most frequent body type is average stature and slightly thin type.