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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
A Study on Aesthetic Senses of Japanese Traditional Women's Wedding Dresses
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 5~20
The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Japanese traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses' aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, Zunihidoe, Iro-uchicake, Chiromuku, Hurisode and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows : Aesthetical senses shown in the Japanese traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, its main factor while the remaining four types, were found having dignity as their main factors. adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, unique, bright, dignity, classical, ornamental and beautiful, suggesting that the Japanese traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, high in dignity and aesthetic beauty. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality (Korea and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization.
Multi-Culture in Men's Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 21~33
The purpose of this study is to Investigate the value of multi-culture and to examine how multi-culture has been reflected in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which multi-culture in men's fashion has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies on styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. The historical range of this study is from the 19th century when western and modern original form of men's dress were visualized, to the year 2001 when the elements of multi-culture are expressed in men's fashion. Westerners in 19th century respected Greek fine arts and the desire for realistic restoration of the body of Greek hero is well reflected in men's suits. Other races were forced to believe such realistic depiction of the Greek body as a symbol of modernization. With the advent of the Information Society In the late 20th century, absolute power had been decentralized, and people in the third world have revealed the racial contradictions by realizing the concept of splitted subject existing In unconscious. In the post-colonial world in the late 20th century, the value of diverse cultures is admitted. Models come from various races in fine art or photographic work Fashion trends are no longer limited to dominant mode, and designers express multi-culture by adopting and renewing folk elements from all over the world.
A Study on Imprinted Fabrics in Daragook -Focused on the Fabrics of the Okjeon Old Tomb-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 35~47
This is a research about the fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb which was built around the early 5th century to the mid of the 6th century. Most of the remains have one kind of fabric attached to them, but there are cases where different sorts of fabrics are attached, where one kind is attached in layers, and there are also cases where the layer is made of different types of fabrics. Although they are made of warps and wefts with no twists, there can be an S twist on the weft or on both the warp and weft, and only one Z twist can be seen. There are 81 fabrics of plain weaved, one of transformed plain weaved and five 4-end complex gauze in these remains. The sparsest plain weaved fabric has the density of 7.4 strands/cm, while the most dense fabric has the density of 148.2
129.1 strands/cm and 0.046
0.061/mm thickness in thread. All the fabrics observed by SEM are hemp except one silk.
The Catalogue and Online-Order Apparel Shoppers Impulsive Purchase Orientation and Impulsive Purchase Stimuli
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 49~62
The purposes of this study were to find out the catalogue and online-order apparel shoppers' impulsive purchase orientation and impulsive purchase stimuli. Self-administered questionnaires were distributed to women over than 20 years, and collected from middle to the end of November in 2000. Frequencies, percentages, and mean were calculated. One-way ANOVA, chi-square test, factor analysis, and cluster analysis were used, and Duncan's Multiple Range test was followed. 1. Factors of impulsive purchase orientation were relax from negative moods, design property, inducement from neighbors, taste congruence, price property of apparel, positive moods, and loose-control, and were segmented into the low impulsive purchaser, the reasonable purchaser, the fulfilled with positive moods, and the high impulsive purchaser. The factors of impulsive purchase stimuli were apparel property, consumer service, sales promotion on the point of sales, and low price. 2. The low impulsive Purchaser was affected little by impulsive purchase stimuli, spent a little money on apparel, and the married with high education level were the most. The reasonable purchaser was affected by sales promotion on the point of sales or low price, spent a little money on apparel, and students or house-wives were the most The fulfilled with positive moods was affected by low price, and students or career women with high education level were the most, but spent less money on apparel. The high impulsive purchaser was affected by various impulsive purchase stimuli, the young unmarried with high education level were the most, and spent more money on apparel. 3. The younger, the unmarried, students or career women, and shoppers with higher income or apparel expenditure showed a higher impulsive purchase tendency for relax from negative mood, design property, for inducement from neighbor, taste congruence, and positive moods. 4. The older, the married, house wives, and shoppers with higher apparel expenditure were stimulated by apparel property or consumer services.
A Study on the Decadent Characteristics in Modern Fashion and Make-up
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 63~73
The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.
A Study on the Grandparents Clothing Image Perceived by Adolescents
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 75~92
The purpose of this study was to investigate the grandparents' clothing image perceived by adolescents. Self-administered questionnaires were distributed and collected from 547 middle school and high school students from March to April in 2000. Frequencies, percentages, mean. and standard deviation were calculated. χ²-test, t-test, F-test, and ANOVA were used for group differences, and Duncan's multiple range test was used. The results were as follows : 1. Grandparents' clothing images were classified into four images of elegant, comfortable, fashionable and active. 2. Adolescents in middle school, in high economic status, in higher academic achievement, and who pursuited fashion perceived favorable grandparents' clothing images as more favorable. Adolescents perceived clothing images of younger grandparents with higher economic status, or grandmother as more favorable. Adolescents who had a good affection and a good-cognition to their grandparents perceived their clothing images as more favorable. Adolescents perceived their mother-side-grandparents clothing images as more favorable. 3. Grandparents were segmented into 3 groups of the fashion pursuit, the utility pursuit, and the stagnated according to their adolescents' clothing image perception. The adolescents in higher economic status, who pursuited fashion, and had a favorable cognition to their grandparents tended to perceive their grandparents as the fashion pursuit. Adolescents who had a high affection to their grandparents tended to Perceive their grandparents as the utility pursuit. Adolescents perceived their mother side grandparents as the utility pursuit.
A Study on the Formative Feature Characteristics of Domestic Minimalism Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 93~109
Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1960s and 1990s were analyzed here. The formative feature characteristics of domestic minimalism fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The formative feature characteristics of minimalism were expressed as simplicity, minimum, repetition, and futurism. 2. The formative feature characteristics of domestic minimalism fashion were expressed as simplicity, minimum, repetition, and futurism in silhouette, shape, detail, trimming, materials, patterns and color. 3. Minimalism in art and domestic fashion were identified to have a relation in the characteristics of formative feature. In shape and color. simplicity and minimum showed analogy while repetition and futurism showed difference. 4. Simplicity and minimum were expressed in both domestic and foreign minimalism fashions, but repetition and futurism were less expressed in domestic fashion.
The Characteristics on Western Men's Underclothes in the Second Half of the 20C
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 111~121
The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes, and analyze functions and characteristics of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 20C. This study will examine how the social backgrounds influenced on the changes of the functions of men's underclothes and how the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes in the second half of the 20C. In the early, the second half of the 20C, underwears of functions was continued to cleanliness and comforts. In the later of the 20C, underwears came to be seen as expressing male sexual power when it became body-conscious. By the changes of outer garments. underclothes changed the same size of proportion. In the late 1960's, the turtleneck type of shirts were copied by outer garments, and we understand that underwear can influence on outer garments. The ruffles of the 18th century reappeared in the 1960's. This reactionism of the late 20C tells us about the relation between social environments and underwear. So the social backgrounds influenced on the formativeness of men's underclothes. We understand that underwear can influence on outer garments and outer garments can influence on underwear, too. The important characteristics of the second half of the 20C were the remarkable resemblance of some styles to those of the Past and the occasional blurring of the distinction between underwear and outerwear.
The Comparative Study on the Differences among Choice of Information Source, Risk Perception and Benefits Sought According to the Purchase Type of the Men's Suits
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 123~134
The purpose of this study to compare the purchasing behaviour of men's business suits, among custom suits, system order, and ready-made suits, centering around the choice of information source, risk perception and benefits sought. The survey of this study was collected from 450 adult male in Seoul. The data was analyzed by factor analysis and ANOVA. The result of this study were as follows : 1. Custom suits, system order, and ready-made suits consumers have a significant difference in the choice of information source. The consumer attaching most importance to the impersonal information source is the system order users, custom suits users, and ready-made suits users respectively. However there was no significant difference in the personal source among 3 different purchasing behaviour of men's suits. 2. For the risk perception, 1) the group who perceived the highest in economic risk is the system order users, followed by custom suits users, and ready-made suits users. 2) the group who perceived performance risk as being the highest concern is the ready-made suits consumers, followed by system order user, and custom suits user. 3) the group who perceived the socio-psychological risk as the highest is the ready-made suits consumers, and followed by custom suits user and system order users. 4) there is no difference among the three groups with respect to the fashionability loss risk. 5) the group of the highest perceiving the useful loss risk is the ready-made suits consumers, and the next is system order users, custom suits users. 6) the group of the highest perceiving the time and convenience loss risk is ready-made suits users, and the next is system order users, custom suits users. 3. For the benefit sought, the group of the highest perceiving the aesthetics is custom suits consumers, and the next is system order users, ready-made suits users.
Study on the Apparel Shopping Behavior of Obese Women in Relation to Interest in Weight Control
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 135~145
A Study on the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 Year-old Boys
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 7, 2001, Pages 147~165
The objective of this study was to develop the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 year-old boys To determine the measurement items for the Jeogori Pattern making, applied factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis to the 37 measurement items of the 9 to 10 year-old boys classified as a standard somatotype. To understand the shape and variation of the body surface, analyzed the replica of the upper body surface that was obtained by the method of using surgical tape. Be based on the results of the above studies, designed the Jeogori Pattern. The designed pattern was evaluated by the sensory test. The drafting methods of Jeogori Pattern obtained are as follows.
The measurement items are Bust Girth, Center Back Waist Length, Neck Width, and Hwajang Length.
Jeogori Length Center Back Waist Length
Front Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 1.5cm Back Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 3.5cm
Jin-Dong : B/4 + 3cm
Back Godae Width(1/2) : Neck Width/2 + 1.7cm Front Godae Width(l/2) : Back Godae Width(1/2) - 2cm
Back Godae Point is 1.5cm higher than shoulder line, and Front Godae Point is 1.5cm lower than shoulder line.
Back Godae Depth: 1.2cm + 1.5cm = 2.7cm The Jeogori Pattern designed by the above method Is as (fig. 8) The results of the sensory test of the new pattern are as fellows. Except for 2 items, every mark of 24 test items has over 5.0 point and a total average mark is 5.25 point. Witch is a good mark. Therefore the new pattern is valid. Especially, the parts of Git, sleeves and back face have a high mark, so the appearances of those parts are excellent.