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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 51, Issue 8 - Dec 2001
Volume 51, Issue 7 - Nov 2001
Volume 51, Issue 6 - Sep 2001
Volume 51, Issue 5 - Aug 2001
Volume 51, Issue 4 - Jul 2001
Volume 51, Issue 3 - May 2001
Volume 51, Issue 2 - Mar 2001
Volume 51, Issue 1 - Jan 2001
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of Silk fabrics which was Collected in Temples of the Middle and the Latter Term Chosun Period
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 1~12
An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.
A Study of Consumers Value and Clothing Purchasing Behavior on the Modernized Hanbok.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 13~24
With development of our society, the Hanbok, which is the traditional clothing of our country, is mainly used only on the festive days or marriage ceremony or so as a ceremonial dress and seems lack in wearing as plain clothes. But in the other hand. with general public became no more unfamiliar with the representation of Korean realities and accepted them as a part of life in 90', the modernized Hanbok that features seasoning the practicality into the aesthetic natures of the traditional Hanbok has been rooting in our country. The existing researches on the modernized Hanbok, however. are focused only in the design of the modernized Hanbok, the present conditions of the modernized Hanbok business and the actual condition of the modernized Hanbok, and the aspect in systematic research on the customers'purchasing behavior is weak in comparison with other areas. The goal of this research, by focusing in the value which is the most basic concept of psychological components indicating the customers' behavior, was : first. to make clear the value of the modernized Hanbok and divide the customers into various groups : second, to make clear the characteristics on the population statistics by the groups divided on the clothing value : third, to make clear the individual differences among the customers of the modernized Hanbok : and forth, to make clear the basis on which to estimate the modernized Hanbok by the customers'groups. This research adopted the surrey inquiry. The first investigation is carried out on the modernized Hanbok purchasers and salesmen in Insa-dong where the modernized Hanbok business is massed. As correction and complement for the first investigation. the final investigation is carried out in Oct. 2000 with the 480 persons from twenties to sixties consisting of the modernized Hanbok purchasers and experienced persons in wearing it.
The Costume Culture in Early 17th Century Perspectives Through Excavated Letters of Hyun-Poong Kwak's Family
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 25~41
This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.
A Study on the Modern Reinterpretation of Galliano to the works of Dior
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 43~49
Galliano's works showed at Dior Collection in 1997 which was held for the 50th anniversary of New Look got a good evaluation in the sense of expressing the modern taste as well as reflecting the spirit of Dior. The purpose of this study is focused on observing how to adapt the Dior's spirit. to Galliano's own design and what is the factor to let us feel his works modern. Galliano's fifty works in that Collection are analyzed by content analysis. The result is as followed : Galliano created his fabulous and modern works by four ways such as using various ethnic details, new way of fabric usage, new construction. and differentiated color harmony from Dior's. This result also includes the methodological model to adapt to design process.
A Study on the Brassiere and Girdle Attitudes by the Obesity & Body Cathexis of Female College Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 51~60
The purpose of this study was to clarify that the obesity and the body cathexis influence on brassiere and girdle attitudes. The data were collected from 263 female college students using questionnaire. The three body types; slim type (37.6%), standard type (55.6%) and obese type (6.8%) were categorized by the obesity. The results could be summarized as follows. 1. The whole body was segmented as 5 parts: leg and hip girths, abdominal & upper arm girth, face & neck, limbs length & stature and breast. The brassiere & girdle attitudes were identified as 4 factors : "avoidance of wearing". "beauty pursuit", "body-making pursuit" and "brand preference". 2. While the body cathexis and appearance interests of the slim type showed highly, those of the obese type showed lowly. 3. While the obesity and appearance interests influenced the brassiere & girdle attitudes excepting "body-making pursuit", the body cathexis: partially influenced them. This study will provide feasible marketing data and implications for activation of foundation garment
The effects of price and brand on consumers evaluation of clothing - comparison before and after the IMF crisis in Korea -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 61~75
This study is designed to compare the evaluations of university students on clothing before and after the IMF crisis in Korea. The conclusions of this study are as follows : First, consumers' perceived quality, value and purchase willingness on high price are raised after the IMF crisis in single cue context. Second. consumers' perceived quality, value and purchase willingness on famous brand are raised after the IMF crisis in single cue context. Third, brand has more effect on quality and purchase willingness than price after the IMF crisis. Fourth, consumers' perceived value and purchase willingness get based on the comparison of both pence and brand after the IMF crisis. Fifth, the highest purchase willingness of university students occurs in the multiple cue context of low price and famous brand both before and after the IMF crisis.
The Effects of Perceived Facial Attractiveness and Appropriateness of Clothing on the Task Performance Evaluation mediated by Likability and the Trait Evaluation
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 77~91
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the perceived facial attractiveness and appropriateness of clothing on the evaluation of task performance of target person mediated by subjects'likability toward and trait evaluation of the target person. The facial attractiveness of the female university students were used as index of physical attractiveness in this study. Three levels of facial attractiveness was manipulated based on the judgements by 30 female university students. Four types of clothes were selected perceived appropriate for two assumed situations by female university students. Three female faces having high. medium, and low attractiveness were simulated with the same body dressed four types of clothing respectively using CAD system, and a total of 12 stimulus persons were created. The design for the experiment was a
randomaized factorial. with three levels of facial attractiveness(high, medium, low), and four types attire(formal-masculine, formal-feminine, casual-masculine, casual-feminine), two kinds of context (job interview, dating) in which perceptions were occurred. The subjects of this study was 524 male and female(262 of male, 262 of female) university students from 3 universities in Kwangju, Korea. The data were analysed using factor analysis. descriptive statistics, regression, path analysis. The results were as follows : 1. In bogus job interview. the direct effect of perceived facial attractiveness on task performance evaluation was .175 and the indirect effect mediated by likability and trait evaluation was .285 in path analysis model. The direct effect of perceived appropriateness of clothing on task performance evaluation was .111 and the indirect effect mediated by likability only was .0564 in pass analysis model. 2. In dating situation, the direct effect of perceived facial attractiveness on task performance evaluation was .355, the indirect effect mediated by likability and trait evaluation was .188 in path analysis model. The direct effect of perceived appropriateness of clothing on task performance evaluation was .108, the indirect effect mediated by likability and trait evaluation was .060 in Pass analysis.
Korean and U.S. Female College Students Attitudes toward Apparel Advertisement in Magazines According to Physical Self-concept
;Nancy J Rabolt;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 93~110
The present study attempted to compare the behavioral patterns and attitudes of American and Korean female students toward apparel ads in magazines in relation to their physical self-concept. The study used a self-administered questionnaire. The sample consisted of 730 female students majoring in the fields related to clothing and textiles : 310 American students at six colleges and universities located in the west, northeast and southwest parts of the U.S., and 412 Korean students at four Seoul-based universities. Likert scales were used for most measures with 1=never or very unimportant and 5 =always or very important. Physical self-concept was measured on the basis of W. S. Jung's Standardized Self-concept Test and Tennessee Self-concept Scale. Surreys were back translated for validity. Percentage, t-test, Contingency Tables and Chi-square were used for the analysis of the data. Results are as follows : (1) Korean students read more magazines than U.S. students, however, Vogue was the most popular for both groups. (2) Those with a high sense of Physical self-concept read more magazines. for both countries. (3) American students'attitudes toward apparel ads in magazines were similar, regardless of whether their sense of physical self-concept was high or low. For Koreans, those with higher sense of physical self-concept showed greater interest in magazine ads, consulted magazines for fashion trends, found ads more useful, and more often expressed satisfaction with the ads, than the lower self-concept group. (4) Korean students cited a lack of information in ads while American students felt body types of models were unrealistic. Both Koreans and Americans in the higher self-concept group expressed a greater level of dissatisfaction with apparel ads in magazines. (5) Advertisers should attempt to again a deeper understanding of the socio-psychological characteristics of their readership as self-concept appears to be related to several magazine readership attitudes and behaviors. Magazines targeting Americans might consider the importance of coordination and merchandising. Apparel ads targeting Korean should consider the importance of company ads.
Design of Torso Patterns for Middle Aged Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 111~121
A Study on the Postmodern Identity in Madonna Costume -Focusing on the intertextuality-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 123~139
A Study on the Cultural Characteristic and Folk Costume of AINU
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 141~157
It has been since 15 century when Ainu realized themselves as a race. Their folk culture had been formed with the effect of East-northern Asia and cultural exchange with Japanese through the northern trade during 17 -18 centuries. It can be ascertained from the typical festival food and clothing. clothing style and the ornaments of Ainu people. The basics of Ainu people are composed of an unfolding clothes which men and women had wort in one-piece style even though they had lived in the northernmost cold climate. Atousi is their typical clothing which had been made of the grass fiber. Ainu people had imported the old cotton clothes from the trading with the mainland roughly in the late E-do (late 18 century). Ainu's clothing is divided broadly into Aiusi and Moreu pattern. Ainu people had decorated their back, shoulder, collar, burial clothes, waist and hem by changing and mixing them. These are the expression of their desire to prevent themselves from the wicked plot or the devil. There is no similar Ainu patterns or skill in Kimono, while it is known to be rather related to the area of Amur River, Sakhalin, and the distant Mongolia. Therefore, the traditional pattern of Ainu should be the continental conception which had been skilfully shaped through the trading with the north adding the series of Ainu People.
Fashion illustration by utilizing Four gentlemanly plants motive
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 159~170
The culture and society environment plays major role in the development of Fashion and now in the 21st century, interest in Fashion is getting increased along with the rapid progress of advanced media development and information surge. Now it s the time to extend visual efficiency not only transmitting fashion image but also develop a creative product that satisfy the demander s needs. Currently it is very hard to express our subjective Korean "nationalism" in the Fashion since the various expression skill using western fashion illustration are dominant in our society. I have classified two components, fashion illustration and Korean painting in the theoretical circumstance. In fashion illustration circumstance, I examined the concept, usage, expression skill and history referring to historical documents. In Korean painting section, I considered coloring portrait concept, pattern, history, concept, and feature of the four gentlemanly plants. including the basic material of Korean-paper, Writing- Brush, Ink-Stone, Traditional-ink and also the history of itself. I have designed 8 products applying the concept of plum blossoms, orchids, chrysanthemums and bamboos that represent the most important part of the four gentlemanly plants, and also the expression skill of Korean coloring portrait.rait.
A Study on Service Quality and Consumer Satisfaction of Beauty Parlor
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 51, issue 8, 2001, Pages 171~183
The purpose of this study was to develop service quality dimension of beauty parolrs in seoul area. The subject consisted of 545 adults with ages ranged between 20 and 30 who had evaluated service qualify dimension on one of the three different types of beauty parlors in seoul. The beauty parlors were classify into three types. Type I is franchised one, type II is located in center of city and type III is close to consumer's residence area. The result was as follows : 1. Four dimensions of the service quality of the beauty parlor were physical aspects(tangibles·accessibility·cleanness), employee aspects(empathy·capability), policy aspects of beauty parlor (management·reputation·credit card), the skill of the hair stylist. 2. To predict comsumer satisfaction. service quality dimensions were as follows : In franchised beauty parlor, the employee aspects(empathy), the policy aspect (reputation), the skill of the hair stylist were should be considered. In beauty parlor in downtown area, Physical aspects(accessibility), the employee aspects(capability), the policy aspects(reputation), the skill of the hair stylist were should be considered. And the beauty parlor in residence area, the employee aspects(empathy), the policy aspects(reputation) were should be considered.