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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Wadding Veil (Kyung)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 1~19
Kyung(景, 景衣), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China. When dynasty is changing. wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(景) was sleeves attached dress form. But. after Dang(唐) and Song(宋) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. In Japan. after Edo Dynasty, Wedding veil, which was sleeves attached dress formed, head dress cloth. Mouei(帽衣). and Piuei(被衣). Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(面衣). from Buyo(夫餘) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(高麗) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(蒙首), and Kedu(蓋頭). When Chosen(朝鮮) Dynasty, Kyunguei(景衣), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, go to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(景衣), in the papanquin.
A Study on Embroidery Patterns of Miao Women′s Traditional Costume Guizhou Province in China
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 21~36
The Miaos have their own unique and luxurious culture traditional and modern formed as they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance against the Han Race or the Chinese in their long and old history. Taijiang County of Guizhou Provice, in which whey have been living, is endowed with natural beauty. Thus their culture enjoys abundant and diverse contents of artificial and natural character. Naturally, their costume reflects cultural and natural features in abundance and variety. This dissertation aims to investigate the artistic character of Miaos' traditional costume as reflected in patterns for their embroidery. As for the artistic character of the patterns for embroidery, the following were found. To begin with, the space in the Miaos' embroidery is, unlike the measurable three-dimensional space found in Greek art, unmeasurable and fantastic with its beauty, majesty and peculiarity. It is as if immersed in limitless space, they were in communion with gods and universe. Another characteristic is the use of image construction beyond mere imitation. Their mode of image construction was realistic in that patterns as a whole reveal an abstract form or meaning but separately they portray visual representations of concrete thins in nature. Still another is that sense of motion conveyed by the basic curve line is full of life. It was the result of using light rhythm breaking stereotypic balance and symmetry. Finally, the colouring was abstract, and a strong contrast between black and white was gorgeous and fantastic.
A study on the Buying Intention and Impulse Buying of Discount Store Apparel
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 37~52
The purpose of this study was to investigate influential factors on the buying intention and the impulse buying of discount store apparel. Data were collected by randomly surveys and the subject was married women. SPSS PC+8.0 was used to analyze the data. The factors to influence on the buying intention of discount store apparel were perceived money value, store image, brand familarity, differentiated needs, perceived risk, perceived quality, voluntary performance. It was found that perceived money value affected buying intension and that perceived quality affected the satisfaction after buying. The factors to influence on impulse buying of discount store apparel were environmental stimulus, useful stimulus, emotional stimulus, situational stimulus of consumer. The relationship between factors of impulse buying and influenced factors of buying intention was that store image affected useful stimulus and differentiated needs affected emotional stimulus.
A Study on Fashion Design Using Geometric Pattern
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 53~67
A Comparative Study of Wadding Costume Among the Eastern Slavs, Mongolians & Koreans : Focus on 19c - early 20c
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 69~87
The Eastern Slavic. the mongolian and the Korean wedding ceremony proceed through those three stages :pre-wedding, and after-wedding. (n the pre-wedding stage, the marriage is arranged when the parents make a decision on a matchmaking proposal. In the main wedding, the bridegroom visits the bride, and the bride walks through the many different procedures, which represent the life and the responsibilities of married women. Expecially, the wedding ceremony is finished and culminated by making hairstyle and wearing of headgear for married woman to the bride. The wedding costume of the Eastern Slav, the Mongolian, and the Korean has been developed with their different characters of styling. The traditional costumes of the each native are worn with the addition of a splendid decorative expression. The Eastern Slavic bride wears Lubaha and Sarapan or a skirt and bridegroom's wedding costume consist with Lubaha and Shitany(trousers). The Mongolian bride wears Deel and Ozh(Ooj) the vest and bridegroom wears Deel and Hantaaz. The Eastern slavic, the mongolian and the Korean bride wears various and gorgous headgears which have reflected cultural values: their traditional views of a wedding ceremony, expected change of social roles for married people. The wedding ceremony of these 3 natives had been performed by the symbolic meaning of the union of the bride to the bridegroom's family.
A Study on the Preference for Fashion Design According to Purchase Attitude at Interned Shopping Mall - An Analysis of the Central Net Generation -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 89~101
The purpose of this study was to characterize purchase behavior at internet shopping mall and the preference for fashion design through analysis Net generations. The subjects for this sample were teen-agers and university students who had dwelled at pusan and ulsan in south korea. This study had 824 samples who had purchasing of fashion apparels at the internet shopping mall. The sampling data in this survey was analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, T-test, Duncan-test, MANOVA and ANOVA of SPSS WIN package. The results of the study were as follows: 1. It was proved that among 824 individuals, 790(95.9%)individuals uses internet or pc communication and 33 individuals don't use any of them. 35.1% of using internet people have been using that for 1∼2 years. And they used internet for 1∼3 hours in a day(52.9%). And Net generations preferred Internet Shopping Mall because they didn't need to take the troubles of shopping and parking, but at the same time, they seemed to have distrust because they couldn't check the products personally. 2. People who decide to purchase by products and pursuit of information prefer cuffs, collar design, people of pursuit of convenience prefer sleeve, neckline, pants design, people of advertising and pursuit of services prefer cuffs, sleeve, collar, neckline, pants design and color. People who was dependent on perception of danger when they purchase preferred color and pattern. 3. It was proved that purchase attitude for men at internet shopping mall was convenience and for women, advertising and pursuit of services. 1318 teenagers decided to purchase mainly by advertising and pursuit of services at internet shopping mall and semi-adult are less dependent on that factors than 1318 teenagers did. Under high school educational course Net generation was dependent on the factors of advertising and pursuit of services when they purchase at internet shopping mall and above university educational course Net generation decide to purchase by the factors of products and pursuit of information. Also, people whose average income was above 3 million won ware dependent on the factors of advertising and pursuit of services and people whose income was under one million won was decide to purchase by the factors of perception of danger. People whose monthly expenditure on purchase was above 50,000 won ware depend on advertising and pursuit of services more than people whose expenditure was under 50,000 won did.
A Study on Gender Images Expressed in Military Fashion - Basis on a Women's wear in the 1990's -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 103~115
The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.
A Study on the Conical Hat
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 117~128
This paper is extended the meaning and period of CONICAL HAT. That is, the race in Central Asia and Western Asia have worn the conical hat before Scytian appeared. One in conical hat puts on the clothes of two-piece style and has the lifestyle. a horse riding and nomadism. Besides the race originate into the Indo-European language family. On the whole the conical hat has relations with the region and is classified into two groups. Scytian and Klin-Yar style. First. the Scytian style of low hat forms the seam of two-piece and is discovered in Southern Russia. Central Asia and East-Northern Asia. Second, the Klin-Yar style of high hat forms the one piece and generally is discovered in Asia Minor and west of Altai. Until now the moaning of the conical hat has focused on the military. However, one in Central Asia and Western Asia is mostly a king. nobility and god. Therefore, in addition to the meaning of military. I estimate that the conical hat may be expressed as the noble status.
Study on the Surface Design Used in S.F.A.A. Collection
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 129~143
Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.
A Study on the Re-occurred Reasons of the Bustle Style in the Turn of a Century -Centering: around France from the 17th to the 20th century-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 145~158
The so-called 'Bustle'which was a support put on waist to heave the side the buttocks means the grandiloquent style to express to ideal body. Bustle style. one of the outstanding and remarkable fashion trends in the late 20th century, has significant meaning in fashion history. This is because not only the style has the longest history, but also it has been periodically repeated every end of a century from the 17th to the 20th century. To analyse to cause the Bustle style was shown, I studied first the sign of forthcoming activity of the Bustle style, the change of the Bustle style shown In the times at the end of century and feature of the Bustle style. Based on the previous reasons of appearance of the Bustle style In the history. there are two similarities. First. reaction led to an occurrence of the reactionary tendency, the Bustle style as they were eager for the past because of a feeling of uneasiness about a coming century. Second, the principle of retrogression led to an occurrence of the Bustle style craving for new style. This Bustle style welch was reaction from being tired of the former fashion appeared to expression a desire for new style. In short, Bustle style was an intermediation between different histories and the basis for continuous development of new eras. rather than lust a part of classicism.
Aesthetics of Underwear
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 1, 2002, Pages 159~173
The subject of the paper is for the study about the implication and the changes of design and functions in the underwear by the change of the times from late 19c until present time. Researching on documents and magazine's articles, and interviewing with women older than 60s is used for the period of previous 1960s. researching on documents, advertising, newspaper, and interviewing with the persons concerned is used for the period of after 1960s. Analysis showed periodical change in underwear is divided into that the changes of the time is divided into 1890-1950 start to Westernization in underwear, 1957-1969 Ready made in underwear. 1950-1969 Variety in underwear, 1980-1989 Fashioning, functioning in underwear, 1990-present Withdrawing from fundamental notion in underwear. The time of 1890-l950 showed the biggest change in an external form in underwear. In 1950-1969, notions of beauty in underwear ultimately swatch from Oriental sense to Western sense, In 70s, underwear achieved the early stage of fashioning. In 80s, Underwear became one of fashion item. In 90s, underwear achieved higher quality and variety. The basic notion of underwear was destroyed by exposing underwear.