Go to the main menu
Skip to content
Go to bottom
REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
A Study on Traditional Brand Market for Fashion Merchandise in Korea
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 1~17
The Traditional Look, a class of fashion, represents image based on British aristocratic authenticity and cultural heritage as unchangeable and lasting classic fashion style. And recently, it keeps up with the trend of modern and young consumers' desire by putting various images. The purpose of the study is to investigate the concept, image and present market condition and to analyze degree of consumers' brand awareness of Traditional brand in pursuit of developing new market and ensuring power between competitive brands. From above work, surveyed on degree of brand awareness and interest, preference, associable image and purchase factors coming from consumers. 606 data were analyzed with SPSS package. Frequency, Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Multiple response, and correlation were applied. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Traditional brand has a high degree at consumers' brand awareness but comparatively lower at interest in it. In band name, while the Burberry has the highest brand awareness, the Polo and the Hunt take first and second position in a purchasing rate. Brand preference has tendency to be concentrated on certain brands showing the outstanding highest degree like the Polo in the 20s, and the Burberry in the 50s in aspect of age structure. 2. In associable image of Traditional brand, it is associate with noble image as dignified, classical and intellectual with itself strongly among practical, individuality, confidential and noble image. 3. As the purchase factors of traditional brand products, it depends on mainly the reliability and esthetic factors like design and quality rather than ostentatious and practical factors. 4. Associable image except individuality image is correlated with the purchase factors of traditional brand.
Costume Expressed by Abjection
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 19~30
This is the research of Abject Art which was originated aesthetically in Abjection Theory of Julia Kristeva, a french psycho-analyst who argued liberational discussions about feminine identity against patricentric ideology which had fastened existing beautiful and elegant oedipal-feminine image and femininity as the secondary sex or the other's sex. and which became known by the planning display at whitney Museum of American in 1993. In Julia Kristeva's Abjection Theory which was written in her book(Power of Horror : An Assay on Abjection, 1992), she named pre-oedipal stage in which there is no sexual difference and has the same significance to both sexes instead of the oedipal stage which is becoming male-supreme reality as the semiotic and reinterpreted that an infant disregards feminine body--mother's body (Julia Kristeva, named it as Chora) as the love and the pain which carries her baby in herself and creates the baby which belonged to herself--which belongs to the semiotic to enter the symbolic smoothly. So the Abjection art is partly consist of some works which express the concertion of the boundary rebated with infant Identity which is not yet the other perfectly nor the subject perfectly, and of some works called Excretory Arts which express the excretion and vomiting which is the original experience of the abject. I expect that this research can be the chance of breaking from the fastened identity which was granted on female and feminine costume in this masculine-view centric society and creating the new position of costume and dress in the field of art by analyzing the costumes especially among these works.
A Study on Check Pattern Expressed in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 31~44
This study was intended to inquire into Check Pattern. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Check Pattern, the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined work. By doing so, this study attempted to Investigate the phase of the Check Pattern in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th century fashion. The result can be summarized as follows : 1. Mondrim's neo-plasticism has not only had a great influence on Op Art and Minimalism work but is deeply related to fashion and textile design. Mondrian used vertical and horizontal line ad the dualistic element. 2. The checker is estimated to have been used since the Etruian times, though uncertain. and largely divided into the Madras check and Scotland Check. Though the origin of the tartan representation of the Scotland check can not be accurately found out, it began to emerge in around the 13th century. 3. Check Pattern has began to be widely used with the development of the textile industry since 1826 and been used in every typical Sihoutto appearing in each era up to the present. And Check Pattern is used most designer in the world, who represent their own personality in their works. This study could find out that the checker is the element of Infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the chocker will be presented by many korean designer though the overall and systematic study of the checker
A Study on the Effect of a Hippie Fashion on the Bobos Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 45~57
21th century is evolving from physical to brain-oriented society, and from class oriented society to network society. In the midst of it, bobos is the new enlightened elite group. In depth analyzationon of the beat generation from the 1950's and hippies from the 1960's, which had influenced the bobos, were done to study on such new and core elite group. According to the research, the emerging of bobos was originated and created from the long gone conflict between the beat and bourgeois, and the hippie and the conservative. And this mixed culture of both free-spirited hippie and materialistic yuppies from the 80's is rapidly growing, and they are easily seem from various commercial advertisements, accessories and fashion designs. In addition, the bobo's were targeted by the main designers, and expressed through bohemian luxury and romantic hippie mood. Naive and childish floral prints, paisley prints that were influenced by the hippies, the hair styles from the 80's and washed denims were seen at the collections. However, the symbolism of the 60's defiant fashion styles seem to fade away but remains only as a style. The comparison and analyzation between the fashion of bobos, hidden meaning of those defiant fashion styles and the aesthetics of it are arranged in the following conclusions.
Body Type Measurements and Analysis for the Development of Size Specifications of Middle Aged Women - Focused on Busan Regional Area -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 59~70
For the purpose of providing basic data for the development of size specifications for middle-aged women in Busan, one dimensional measurements were made with the subjects. ranging 45 to 59 in age. The following are the conclusions : 1) According to ages, the middle and elder groups of the middle-aged women shared similar body types, having shorter height, more lowered bust. and increased upper-body depth and girth factors, compared with the earlier middle-aged women group. But the thigh girth of the elder middle-aged group (age: 55∼59) was the lowest, maybe owing to the aged lower-body muscles. 2) In the comparison with national averages. armhole girth, elbow girth, wrist girth. back waist length, side neck point-B.P.-waist line, and sleeve length showed great differences. This is problematic in that the national size standards fail to reflect each legion\`s peculiar body type characteristics. 3) Even though body types were classified according to drop value criteria suggested by KS specifications, 23.05% did not belong to the criteria. They were thus classified as A, N, and H body types, following the distribution of the present experiment. 4) In consideration of the economy factor of the production and sales of the clothes industry, the combinations of height and chest garth for the middle-aged Busan women were as follows: 155cm-85cm (Body Type A) 150cm-88cm (Body Type N), and 155cm-94cm (Body Type H).
Correlation Between Factors Related to the Foot Shape and the Foot Abrasion in Wearing Ladies' Shoes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 71~80
The purpose of this study was to examine the correlation between the shape of the foot and foot abrasion. and to provide preliminary data for shoe manufacturing by comparing the length of a woman's feet and the shoe size. The Martin calibrator and measuring tapes were utilized to measure the shapes of 163 female college students' feet. Indirect measurements were also obtained by line drawing of the feet for additional analysis. Brief questionnaires about what type of shoes are worn were given to the subjects of the study. Data analysis was presented by frequency, percentage, and standard deviations. Factor analysis and correlation co-efficiency of data was conducted on the significance level of p〈.05. The results of the study are as follows (1) The average number of days per week in which the subjects wear ladies' shoes per week were 4.5. Little over half of the subjects (53.87% ) answered that they wear heeled shoes for more than 8 hours per day. The most preferred height of a ladies'shoe heel was between 2 cm and 4 cm, as replied by 41.0% of the subjects. (2) The foot area where abrasion occurs most often was around the heel (51.2%) and the middle part of the sole (50.9%) (3) Factors correlated to the heel abrasion included the circumference and the breadth of the foot. The abrasion on the side of the first toe of mid-sized feet was most affected by the angle of the first the and inner foot line. The height of the foot heel was a significant factor for the abrasion near the anklebone. In conclusion, the abrasion resulted from the inappropriate fitting of the shoe and the foot. Also, the circumference and the width factors were more influential rather than the foot length. Therefore, more database on this should be systemized and available to the footwear manufacturers and the customers for more practical use of shoe size and public education.
Design of Uniform Packages for Restaurant by the Modernization of the Korean Traditional Motif
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 81~90
There are increasing a foreign visitors since 88 Seoul Olympic game. Uniform is getting increased importance as one of the symbols which represent the characteristic of restaurant as well as gloves good impression to the customers and foreign tourist. This study aims at developing uniform packages (including table cloth, mat, napkin, end so on) that satisfy the customers' need and let foreign visitors recognize the outstanding beauty of Korean traditional pattern. For uniform design, It was selected a sumacsae of a the lotus flower motif and developed a textile pattern design by using CAD system. And then the developed textile design was printed a polyster100% fabric by using the digital textile printing system. Uniform packages designs were developed applying traditional sumacsae motif in order to capture a modern stance of beauty under using blue and pink color and same concept of modern image.
The Use of Natural Dye Fabrics to Design of Works
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 91~101
In order to development of culture goods I made works with various color's silk fabrics dyed with water extract or methanol extract of plants. The Plants used for dyeing as dyeing material were indigo, safflower, amur cock tree, onion's Peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood. Each of Plants were extracted by each of temperature and time. The mordants used for various color chanties are aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With fabrics of various color dyed like this I made works which give expression to an easy and natural image of the Korean nation of fabrics.
A Study of Shilla(新羅)′s Naeoe(內衣), Danoe(短衣)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 103~113
Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.
Somatometric Characteristics of Elementary School Boys at the Ages 7 to 8 and Classification Thereby
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 115~124
The purposes of this study were to classify somatotype was obtained from the factor scores of the upper half of bodies and analyze the Somatometric characteristics. The sample group (hereinafter referred to as "1st age group") was drawn from bays at the ages 7 to 8 living in Pusan and Kyungsangnam-do. Data from each boy comprised 36 anthropometric measurements and 7 photographic measurements. The study reached following conclusions. 1. According to the analysis to draw Somatometric factors by the 1st age group, seven indicative factors were obtained from measurements of the upper half of bodies. The most significant factor "sectional size" and the second most significant factor "longitudinal size" characterized most aspects of body shape of boys at the ages 7 to 8. 2. According to the analysis of Somatometric characteristics by the upper half of bodies, the 1st age group was categorized into three types : Boys in type 1 had highest stature, biggest frame, broadest shoulders, most protruded chest and shoulder blades and flattest belly : boys in type 2 had shortest stature, smallest frame, sloping shoulders and most protruded belly boys in type 3 had quite high stature and his other measurements were close to the averages of this age group.he averages of this age group.
A Study on the Transfer of Korean Sang(Skirts) to Japan and its Changes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 125~137
This study proved that Japanese skirt(裳 'sang') during 5-8 century was introduced by korean emigrants. The skirt of the Tang dynasty(7C) which used to be worn among Japanese upper class in the Nara period(8C),is understood to be transferred through Korean as it was popularly worn in the Shilla Dynasty at the same time. Because Japan was not able to trade with Tang during 4-9 century, unless pass through the Korean peninsular, it suggests that Japanese costume was affected by Korean style of costume. At the later Heian period in Japan, Kosode was mainly worn among Japanese and wearing a skirt has to be abandoned. Instead, only the train, a part of skirt, remain as a decorative part on the back of Japanese woman's formal dress and it continued until now.
The Effects of Meteorological factors on Sales of Apparel Products - focused on apparel sales in the department store-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 2, 2002, Pages 139~150
The purpose of this study was to explore the effects of meteorological factors on sales of apparel products. Basic fiat came out daily meteorological data and sales data of apparel products in department store from 1998 to 2000. Four factors(the average temperature, rainfall, wind velocity, sunshine duration) from the nine meteorological factors were selected and were collected with Korea Meteorological Administration. Sales data were collected with business strategy department of H (department store in Seoul. The sales data were divided into six classifications, which are woman's wear, men's wear, children's wear, golf wear, sports wear, and inner wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Sales of apparel products were significantly correlated with the average temperature, rainfall, wind velocity, sunshine duration. Among the meteorological factors, temperature turned out to be the most influential in apparel sales and then the amount of rainfall, sunshine duration affected sales according to apparel classifications differently. 2) There were some differences among the apparel classifications in the effect of meteorological factors on the sales of apparel. In the spring. the higher the temperature was, the higher the sales of women's wear and golf wear were, but the lower the sales of children's wear, sports wear and inner wear were. In the summer, The higher the amount of rainfall was, the lower the sales of all the apparel classification were. The higher the temperature was, the higher the sales of sports wear were. In the fall, the lower the temperature was, the higher the sales of all the apparel classification except snorts wear were. In the winter, the meteorological factors had little effect on the sales of women's wear, men's wear and children's wear. The higher the temperature was, the higher the sales of golf wear were. The lower the temperature was, the higher the sales of sports wear were.