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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Relationship between the Costume of Court Masque and English Renaissance Fashion -Focusing on the Elizabethan and Jacobean Period-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 1~18
The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between costumes of court masque and the fashion trend at that time, by the analysis of the portraits. The period in this thesis is from Elizabeth I (1588-1603), until James I (1603-1625), when Inigo Jones was actively involved in court in masque, and when the traits of court masque began to appear in costume. The research material of this thesis is from the papers, costume design sketches, portraits and miniatures. As a result the costume of court masque which is the mixture of that of ancient Greece, Rome, middle age, and the exotic style of Ireland and Persian, had a great impact on the general fashion, and the unique pattern f costume became prevalent in the end of 16th and the early 17th century. This thesis might help us understand and special costume of that age and study the way how it come to have an influence on the fashion of the costume pertaining mainly to the privileged class.
The Study on the Mordanting and Dyeing Properties of Sophora Japonica L.
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 19~27
This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8
. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10
, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.
Production Model Development of Mass Customized Clothing - Focused on Clothes for Middle-aged Women -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 29~47
A Study on the Dance Costume in Picasso's Cubic Works
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 49~60
This study is to study the peculiar world of work that endeavored the stage setting and costume production in Ballet-russe centered around one of 20th representative artist Pablo Picasso and Diaghilev. Picasso worked four pieces ballets such as parade, Le Tricorne, Puchnella, and Le train bleu with Diaghilev. The originality of costume was well represented without losing the whole work's sense of unity. and designed foreasy movement as well as visual effect. As cubic is most common in parade especially, cubic stave costume were introduced at dancing costume of Paris manager and New York manager flrst time in Ballet's history. Picasso used the Cubism for dancer's beautiful appearance and primary color and decoration for oriental feeling. Picasso pursued the beauty and action at the same tome, and tried to represent the stage setting, impersonation and costume towards units, so the Importance of his work has still been referring.
The Study of Costume Design Applying the Shape Beauty of Flower - Concentrating on the Orchid Motif -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 61~73
The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.
Clothing Involvement and Clothing Satisfaction by the Awareness of Body type -among middle and high school girls in Seoul-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 75~85
The purpose of this study was to find out the interrelationship of awareness of body type and clothing behavior. The questionnaires were collected from 457 middle and high school girls is Seoul. The samples were divided into two groups according to their awareness of body type. In total 'high-aware group'(that is, more aware their body type than normal) was 54.9%, but in high school-girls 'high-aware group' was 60.1%. The ideal height and weight did not differ regardless of their body type. Even though their real weight is normal and under the average, the awareness of body type was very severe. The distortion of body type was observed. The more she were aware their body type, the more felt risks of clothing purchase. Also 'high-aware group' considered symbolic function of clothing more seriously. The satisfaction of clothing were partly influenced by the awareness of body type. The factor analyses of clothing satisfaction of two groups ended with different factors.
A Study on Difference of Clothing Image Evaluation by Gender
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 87~98
The purpose of this research is to investigate the difference on c1othing image evaluation in the ratings between men and women. For this study, pilot test was conducted to 50 clothing majored university students to explore the stimulus of 'cute', 'casual', 'sexy', 'elegant', 'intelligent', 'formal', 'romantic', 'individual', 'refined' for the 9 each image styles from the 32 spring wears in fashion magazine
(March. 2000). On the basis of the preliminary survey, the question items explored the 15 pairs of polar adjectives as seven-point Likert Scale. The main survey was preceded 94 female and 111 man of university students from March 13 to 24 in 2000, twice for 7-days interval. There were significant differences between the two sexes for each style image ratings. It was found that the female was recorded mote ordinary, stable. refined. superior, plain, like than the male for intelligent style. Meanwhile, the intelligent style was evaluated well on in years by female, but male young. The female tended that elegance style was more stable, warm and less young than the male. The cute style was evaluated more light, tender, feminine, young by the female than the male, find the female looked warm while the male cool. The formal style was more stable, unrefined. solid, unfamiliar dislike, old by the female than the male. The casual style was revealed plain and warm by the female while splendor and cool by the male, the female more active, tender, familiar than the male and individual, attractive and poor quality than the female. The sexy style was evaluated more active, good appearance, young than the female, tender than the male and the female dislike a bit while the male like. The female evaluated the refined style for more stable. refined. superior good appearance and nature than the male. The romantic style was evacuated more like, refined, superior, good appearance nature and familiar by the male, but the female a bit unfamiliar. The individual style was revealed that the female evaluated cool and a bit dislike while the male warm and like, and the male more refined, feminine, young than female.
The Study Regarding Involvement of Fashion Consumers and Clothing Advertising Effect Process
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 99~109
The purpose of 7his study was to understand the characteristic of involvement which affect to consumers of fashion market, and at the viewpoint of complex style, this involvement is consists of clothing involvement, advertising involvement and situation involvement, also by verifying the consumers reaction to clothing advertising effect process. It analyzed at last six hundred eighteen women in the age of twenty to thirty yearn old who live in Seoul. SPSS package were used to analyze the gathered data. Frequency, percentage, fator analysis. ANOVA. duncan test, correlation analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First, The clothing involvement was the highest Involvement of fashion consumers and it showed high correlation among clothing involvement, advertising involvement, situation involvement. Second, Depends on the nature of involvement, involvement group is divided as the most involvement, high involvement, low Involvement and the most lowest involvement groups. Third, Involvement and advertising effect showed highly difference, and the higher involvement group has high perceptive process and memory progress, friendly attitude process, and purchasing intention is high.
An Aesthetic Study on the Kokuryo Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 111~122
The study of traditional costume is significant in terms of figuring out of the reality of its originality and enrich the costume culture of today. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and to contemplate the aesthetic values of the Kokuryo costume. Kokuryo costume were characterized with the simpleness in its clothing constructions. The spaces found on the dresses were emphasized giving a geometric characteristics and abstract images. Many different colors were used for tops, bottoms, and border elements showing value contrast in each parts of dress. Patterns were simplified in a dot or stripe shapes impling a certain symbols. Dot patterns were varied in its shapes. In general. the decorative elements were simple and eliminated. Through the process of investigating these aesthetic characteristics, aesthetic values were found. The aesthetics of nature were favoured and tradition were respected. Religious mind were favoured and progressive spirit were endowed by the Kokuryo people. They have pursued the diversities and many changes in visual forms of dresses which were the manifestations of their esprit.
The Actual Condition and Problems of Current Shrouds
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 123~137
The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual condition and problems of current ready-made shrouds. Current shrouds were formed after the 20th century and therefore are quite apart from its traditional precedents of Chosun Dynasty. In this respect, several problems can be pointed out. 1. The use of natural colored hemp as a primary textile of current shrouds is far from our tradition. Silk, ramie, and cotton have to be used together with hemp. Also, more variety of colors can be used other than natural white. 2. The size of ready-made shrouds has to be categorized at least into three: large, medium and small 3. The pattern and sowing method of Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼) should be corrected in line with those of the traditional Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼). 4. The design and items of current ready-made shrouds have to break away from the standardized convention and should seek more of a variety that our rich tradition provide. 5. The rational index should be suggested so that consumers can compared the quality and price of ready-made shrouds available at their hands.
Study on the Present Gown of Oriental Medical Doctors in Korea
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 139~147
This study was carried out to survey the contentment of the oriental medical doctors to the present gown which they wear. The objects were the oriental medical doctors who work for the university hospitals and the private clinics. The subjects were mainly the evaluation of the relation to the image of oriental hospital and the gown, the evaluation of the present their gowns and the evaluation on the improvement of their gowns. The collected data were analysed by the frequency, cross-table and
using SPSS program. The results showed that the oriental medical doctors who work for the university hospital evaluated the difference of the image more important than those who work for the private clinics. Also the former was more than the latter on the necessity of the difference in the gowns between the western and oriental medical doctors. The oriental doctors regarded the tradition as of great importance in the improvement of their gown. More than 70% of them wanted to separate their gown for the spring-summer from that for the autumn-winter.
A Study on The Pattern shape(Figure) of the korean Trouser, Hanbok-Baji, in the Realation to its Fabric(Ground) - Emphasized on the Topological Aspect -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 149~160
Symbolism found in a certain object inherits characteristics from the culture that contains the objects. The purpose of this study was investigate the formative beauty of Korean trousers twisted the pieces together based on the way of Korean thinks and the Topology. The shape is formed by cutting from the fabric. From the perspective of semiology, the fabric and the pattern shape correspond to ground and figure. Ground and figure are identical with the principle of the whole and the part, which is the same in Korea, China, and the West. But In Korea, the 3-dimensional garment is made by adding a twist. This is very important and defines the difference in the way of thinking and topology. Korean trousers consist of three parts : Hury, Marupok, and Sapok. The small Sapok can be made by removing the Marupok and large Sapok (figure) from the fabric (ground) when making Korean trousers. A Mobius strip is made when the large Sapok is adjoined with the small Sapok by reversing the small Sapok, making a 180
twist and then stitching together. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi. thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strop. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi, thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strip. Hury is cylinder while the small and large Sapok make up the Mobius strip. As a result, Mobius strip, Kleins'bottle, protective plan can be applied in cutting Hanbok used in the countryside, so I have come to see that the traditional Korean way of thinking is closely related to the theory of topological.
A Study on the Effect of Clothing Consumption Value on Service Quality of Internet Apparel Shopping Mall
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 161~169
The purposes of this study were to investigate effects of the clothing consumption value on the service quality and to examine the determinant factors on the attitude of interned apparel shopping. The data were collected from 227 female adults using questionnaire. Using SPSS 9.0 package. Cronbachs
, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis were performed. The results could be summarized as follows. 1. Clothing consumption value was composed of 5 factors : fashion value, social value, functional value, personality value, and emotional value. 2. Clothing consumption vague had direct effects on the service quality of internet apparel shopping mall. The service quality was perceived as reliability, advantage. responsibility, product assortment, tangibles, and rapidness. 3. Consumer characteristics such as age, household income. experience of internet shopping. and web search ability, clothing consumption value. and product assortment of the service quality had significant effects on the attitude of internet apparel shopping.
A Study on the Design Characteristics and the Cultural and Industrial Meanings of Retro-Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 3, 2002, Pages 171~187
The purpose of this study is to grasp the meanings of retro-fashion, to research the design characteristics and background on the birth of repro-fashion. It can help to confirm the importance of aesthetic marketing which is based on human feelings, the roles and cultural and industrial meanings. Reto-fashion Is one of the mediums between the expression of Post-modern fashion and emotional sympath of human beings as consumer and fashion creators. So this inspiration is the way of fashion creativities. The backgrounds of appearance repro-fashion are reflection about materialism and technique and 20th century, the sense of instability and finding new ideas from the past. The characteristics of retro-fashion designs are as follows : First, the styles have been come from 50's. 60's, 70's, and 80\`s. It means that the styles not just expressed to return to the past simply but an expression the emotional state for missing the past. Second, the colors and materials are various also as like styles. Third, the decorations of repro-fashion are more crafts by human. The roles of retro-fashion are for creation of high valued product in fashion design, expression of individuality with disharmonized coordination and application as a fusion style. The cultural and industrial meaning of repro-fashion are endowment of aesthetic marketing using human feeling in fashion marketing area and pursuing of the Renaissance of fashion culture and industry. Therefore it is needed that design critics and analysis going side by culture and industry condition for fashion study with human feelings in 21th century.