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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
On the Vocabulary of Clothing in the Middle of Chosun Dynasty - Base on Mrs. Soonchen Kim's Letters -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 1~13
The purpose of this study was to understand clothing culture in the middle of Chosun Dynasty by observing the vocabularies in Mrs. Sooncheon Kim's letters written in pure Korean in the 16th Centuries. To analyze the vocabulary, classification was made into three groups : names of clothing, material, verb, and observe the constituent and change on vocabularies. The results are as follows : - The vocabularies of clothing in letters in 16th Centuries consist of pure Korean, Chinese and Mongolia, and most of them are pure Korean. - Most of the vocabularies which are not used today were pure Korean : Garamei·Myentei…. - The vocabularies changed and used today had the definite meaning from that of general : Godo, Cheksum. The vocabularies of material haying various unit of measurement and grade according to the material of clothing mean the systematic development of physical culture of that time, and the development of the various modifications of the act and expression mean the varlous ways of clothing life.
The Present Position of the Interdisciplinary Approach of Historical Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 15~23
The purpose of this study was to pave the way to improve the quality of historical clothing and textiles and to search for the advisable direction of future studies by examining and analyzing the interdisciplinary approach of historical clothing and textiles related articles published in The Korean Society of Costume. For this analysis, the data were included 124 historical clothing and textiles research articles published in The Korean Society of Costume from 1980 to 2001 March. The followings show the results of this study. 1. The five dominant interdisciplinary fields of historical clothing and textiles were Identified : anthropology, art history, pop music, archaeology, sociology 2. The interdisciplinary research has been actively approached in historical clothing and textiles. 3. The most frequently approached field of the interdisciplinary researches of historical clothing and textiles was art history 4. The period that has most variety interdisciplinary fields was the present age. The studies of future historical clothing and textiles should be approached in more diverse areas of interdisciplinary way and time periods.
A Study on the Relationship between Clothing Evaluative Criteria of Hanbok and the Life Style Characteristics of University Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 25~38
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between lifestyle and the evaluative criteria of the Korean traditional costume, Hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. The questionnaires were administered to 291(men:.102,Women:189) university students in Seoul. Data were analysed by factor analysis, correlation coefficient, t-test. The results were as follows : 1) Factor analysis was used to determine the dimensions of the evaluative criteria of Hanbok, Saenghwal Hanbok and life style characteristics. The evaluative criteria dimensions were found to be different according to Hanbok. Saenghwal Hanbok. 2) In Hanbok, evaluative criteria were classified into comfort & easy care, prestige, design, fashion, suitability to yourself. 3) In Saenghwal Hanbok. evaluative criteria were classified into prestige, ease of care, design., appropriateness, brand. 4) The life style characteristics were classified into independence, activism. conservatism, and materialism. 5) There were the significant relationships between life style factor and clothing evaluative criteria. Especially for design in Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok was negative relationship with conservatism and positive relationship with activism. materialism. and Independence.
A Study of Adapting Men's Pyoeui of Chosun era to Wedding Dress
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 39~50
The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean beauty to the design of Wedding dress. For this study, Chosun Men's Pyoeui(coat) were considered first. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jobog, Danryeong. Chulrlk, Dabho, Jangeui, Aegjueumpo, Jigryeong, Changeui, Changos, Jungchimag, Hagchangeui, Simeui, Dopo, and Durumagi. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the costume beauty describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern. and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the costume beauty about Men's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt the beauty of Korean costume to the design of Wedding dress.
A Study on the Symbolic Meaning in the 20th Century Men's Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 51~63
The purpose of this study is to review the symbolic meaning in 20th century men’s fashion through analyzing of social environment factors. After recent industrial society, men had expressed their privilege, prestige and social power according to fashion. Men's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century was emerged as the images of robustness and strictness with perfect cutting, thick and stick fabric and dark color that were influenced by british style. It was symbolic meaning of authority orientation which showed the superiorities of social and sex classes. It was beginning of change according to social phenomena. The world war Ⅰ,Ⅱ and change of lifestyle by material affluence in automobile industry mollified rules of men's fashion. It showed a serenity of living. Also, the growth of young culture changed trickle-down of men's fashion into bottom-up and showed opposition for elite culture in fashion. These change particularly became acceleration by Individualism, open-society and the collapse of sex class. Men expressed sexual and inherent desire for fashion that was no longer concerned with symbolizing of authority but rather with pleasure pursuit.
Costume Culture Study Based on the Trade Goods Between Chosun Communication Facilities and a Japanese Envoy in the Early Chosun Dynasty - Centered on the imported goods from Japan -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 65~73
This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.
Use of Fashion Information Sources and Clothing Involvement of Middle and High School Girls
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 75~85
The degree of involvement was known to shape the types of decision- process behavior of consumers. The types of information search would be influenced according to the degree of involvement. The purpose of this study was to find out the fashion information sources used in clothing purchase, and to clarify the interrelationship of clothing involvement and information sources. The middle and high school girls in Seoul were the subjects of the study. The information sources were classified into three types; marketer-oriented, internal and personal sources. Fashion informations spreaded by mass media were the most diversely used by teens. Among fashion information sources, ‘my own thoughts and experiences’ was counted as the most important one. And ‘interior and display of the shop’ was more important than the other marketer-oriented informations. Clothing involvement in the aspect of pleasure/symbol showed meaningful correlation with the information of ‘street fashion’, but in the aspect of fashion consciousness, ‘fashion of movie stars and celebrities’was the most significant information source. It seemed that ‘fashion articles in the magazines’ was used to reduce perceived risk in clothing purchase.
The Globalization Era and Counterfeit Goods in Korea
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 87~95
A Content Analysis of Articles in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume: 1977~2001
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 97~109
The purpose of this study was to examine volumes 1 through 51-8 of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume in relation to past trends In content area of research reported, authorship, and funding source. Six subject matter areas were indentified: history of costume, apparel design and aesthetics, fashion marketing, social psychological aspects of clothing, clothing construction, textile science and etc. Of the 892 articles studies, history of costume research represented 40.1%(358). Studies which focused on apparel design and aesthetics increased in number as the journal matured. 51.8%(462) were authored by a sole individual. 48.2%(430) were authored by above two persons. Funding sources were indentified in 15.7%(140) of the 892 articles. College and university grants 72.9%(102) were acknowledged most frequently as a funding source.
A Study on the Transformation and Transformational Factors in Mongolian Women's Costumes -Focusing of Women's Costumes of Mongol.Yuan Era -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 111~123
The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.
Soccer Uniform Designs Representing Korean Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 125~139
This research was conducted to develop soccer uniform designs for the enforcement of the identity of Korea. Throughout the development of the image of Taeguek and the pattern of tiger on the soccer uniform design, it was tried to show colors and symbolic elements representing Korean traditional themes. The contents of the research cover; first, analysis of historic changes in Korean uniform design for the representative soccer players and uniform designs of the soccer players in other countries; second, analysis of the image of Taeguek and the pattern of tiger; third, analysis of the surveys of professional soccer players; and forth, uniform designs proposed and evaluation. To develope new uniform designs, Taeguek and tiger motives were adopted to express the identity of Korea by looking at the analysis of uniforms in countries including Korea. In an addition, today's fashion trends of active sportswear were analyzed to get the new idea of design. With considering the surveys of the professional soccer players in Korea, the functional designs identifying the Korean image could have come out. As a results of this research new designs of national soccer players' uniform including 4 designs for the motif of Taeguek, 4 designs for the motif of guae, 4 designs for colors of Taeguek, 4 designs for the motif of Tiger were developed, and 2 samples were made. Surveys for evaluation comparing new design & present uniform were progressed. An aesthetic and symbolic aspects of new design were better than present uniform regarding this survey.
The Effect of Indirect Advertisement to Consumers' Clothing Purchase Behavior -Focusing on Clothing Sponsorship of Television Drama-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 141~154
The purpose of this study was to define 'sponsorship' as a kind of advertising tool, and to describe its effects on consumer brand attitude and actual purchase behavior. From previous research results, clothing sponsorship was defined as 'indirect advertisement', which has common ad traits as well as the uncommon ad traits, such as indirectness, emotional affinity, and symbolism. Results from empirical research using 1,227 data collected in Seoul and Kyounggi Areas were as follows ; (1) Television drama clothing sponsorship was proved to have effects on brand image, emotional & rational brand attitudes, decision making process, and actual purchase behavior. (2) Each of drama clothing sponsorship factors, such as 'drama', 'role', and 'actress', had different effects on brand memory and attitudes. (3) Consumer decision making process initiated by drama clothing sponsorship followed two different processes, which were called 'rational' and 'heuristic'. The rational process followed every steps of EKB model, which explained consumer's rational shopping, but heuristic model was closer to emotional and impulsive shopping.
A Study on Trompe-1'oeil Expressed in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 4, 2002, Pages 155~171
Trompe-1’oeil technique strategically conceived with a view to effectively realize creative ideas among the expression techniques of fine arts style has provided the driving force in development of fine arts and has continuously influenced development of the modern fashion pursuing unique individuality. The purpose of this study is to open a new horizon for the development of fashion as a practical art, and to seek the expansion of the creative domain and ultimately to contribute to the creation of original and creative fashion by examining the interrelationship between Trompe-1’oeil, which has long been utilized and positioned as one of the leading fine arts techniques with the advent of surrealism in the beginning of the 20th century and the modern fashion. The study is focused first on finding out how Trompe-1’oeil technique originated in connection with researching the fashion of Trompe-1’oeil and on analysing the techniques of expression, and then on investigating into Elsa Schiaparelli, pioneer of Trompe-1’oeil technique to identify her influences, and finally on classifying clothes employing Trompe-1’oeil technique by their expression method to examine how Trompe-1’oeil technique has been applied to modern clothes. As for the research method, the researcher has referred to fine arts books, collection of pictorial records and the like to gain conceptual understanding of Trompe-1’oeil and to examine the expression method and the features of Trompe-1’oeil, and collected and referred to fashion books and fashion marazines to understand Elsa Schiaparelli and the expression tendencies of Tromprf-1’oeil in modern fashions. Particularly, the researcher has attempted to search the correlation between modern fashion and Trompe-1’oeil technique. As a result of this research, the researcher has managed to classify Trompe-1’oeil technique expressed in modern fashion into ‘harmony’, ‘application of the human body’, ‘front and back’, ‘surface and inside’. ‘completion of the incomplete’ and ‘detail.’ The researcher has also noted that Elsa Schiaparelli, a surrealist first applied Trompe-1’oeil technique to clothes and confirmed that quite a few avant-garde clothes designers following Elia Schiaparelli, by using Trompe-1’oeil technique in clothes, recently recreate fresh feelings.