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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
The Effects of Twenties Women's Fashion Color Reception on Clothing Purchase
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 1~13
The purposes of this study are to examine the relation between twenties women consumer's fashion-color reception and clothing purchase behaviors, and to propose the most effective plans of color-marketing. A questionnaire survey examined 384 persons' opinions in total. First, consumers are classified into 3 groups. according to their preferring colors and the degrees of their concerning : 'type of leading fashion-color', 'type of following fashion-color', and 'type of being indifferent to fashion-color'. Second, this study analyzed the factors of consumers' clothes-purchasing motives. : all consumer groups showed their purchasing motives in the order of 'aesthetic sense'-pursuit factor. 'sensitivity'-pursuit factor, and 'actual profit and sociality'-pursuit factor. Third, the types of consumers' purchasing clothes were divided into 2 groups: type of planned buying. And type of unplanned buying. And the relations between the above 2 groups and purchasing motives were investigated, as a result. it was proved that the consumers who have the purchasing motives of 'sensitivity'-pursuit and 'actual profit and sociality'-pursuit conducted 'planned buying'. Fourth. the relations between motive of clothing purchase and the type of purchase behavior were examined by consumer group : in the consumer group of leading fashion-color, the more did they have the purchasing motives of 'sensitivity'-pursuit or 'actual profit and sociality'-pursuit, the more did they conduct' planned buying'. In the fashion-color following group, the more did they have the purchasing motives of 'sensitivity'-pursuit or 'actual profit and sociality'-pursuit, the more did they conduct 'unplanned buying'.
A Study on the Chinese University Students' Clothing Attitudes and Purchasing Behavior According to Their Lifestyle
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 15~30
The purposes of this study were to identify the Chinese university students' clothing attitudes and purchasing behavior according to their lifestyle. Questionnaires developed by researcher were distributed and collected from 540 Chinese university students from Mar. 5 to Mar. 20, 2001. Means, frequencies, and percentages were calculated. Factor analysis, cluster analysis. one-way ANOVA, and Chi-square test were used for data analysis. And Duncan's multiple range test was followed. The factors of lifestyle were consumption, self-confidence, economy, accomplishment. sociability. fashionability, individuality, and conservation. Chinese university students were segmented into 4 groups of the modern sociable, the passive stagnated, the positive progresive, and the traditional conservative. The group size of the modem sociable was the smallest, and the traditional conservative was the largest. Chinese university students considered sexual attractiveness of clothing most important. Psychological dependence and ostentation of clothing were next important in a decending order. The passive stagnated considered conformity of clothing most important and showed the opposite tendency of the modern socialable. The positive progressive considered all aspects of clothing attitudes important, and showed the opposite tendency of the traditional conservative. Chinese university students utilized direct fashion information sources, and patronized medium or small size department store or traditional market.
Correlationship with Wedding Dress Image Preference and Self Image of Female University Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 31~45
In this paper. the focus is laid on identifying preferred wedding dress image and its co-relationship with self image of female university students. the biggest potential customer group in the industry. As for the research method. it conducted both review of literature and empirical research method. Through the former approach, four main research questions were derived : 1) What is the preferred wedding dress image of female university students\ulcorner 2) What is the relationship between real self-image and preferred wedding dress image\ulcorner and 3) that between ideal self-image and preferred wedding dress image\ulcorner 4)What is the relationship between the consistency level of the two self-images and preferred wedding dress image\ulcorner In the empirical mode of research, 404 surveys were counted in the final analysis among 450 questionnaires completed by female undergraduate students in Seoul and Chun-an city. Collected data analyzed using factor analysis. frequency analysis. descriptive analysis. scheffe test. multiple-regression analysis and t-test. Results are as follows: first, the sophisticated image was most preferred among female students, followed by elegant splendor. lovable and chaste, feminine and decorative, and characteristic and sexy image. This result indicates how wedding dress trend has a keen sensibility to general fashion trend just like the trend of outfits for everyday life. Secondly, the research results indicated consistent level of co-relationship among the real and ideal self-image and the preference of wedding dress image. And the last the level of consistence between the ideal self-image and the real self-image directly related to the preference level of wedding dress image, showing almost no significance.
A Study on Apparel Designs using Formative Aesthetics of Scarf
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 47~60
With such basic conceptions in mind. this study was aimed at reviewing the unique formative aesthetics of scarves for creation of modern apparel design. To this end, the drapeability of the rhythmically wrinkled fabric of scarf as well as its tying and enclosing representation were introduced into the apparel details and silhouette to create an apparel design flattering the moderns unique sense of aesthetics and emotion. In the same vein. threads were superimposed on the planar fabric to express a sense of volume and thereby, pursue a unique decorative effect of rich texture. Specifically. the objectives of this study are to highlight the practical use of scarf warming and its decorative formative aesthetics and thereby, apply it to apparel designs and develop an art fabric using the machine embroidery technique. and ultimately, suggest the possibility of unique but highly value-added apparel designs.
A Comparison on the Form in Women's Hanbok between the Later Chosun Dynasty and Modern Times- Applying Delong's Dividing System for Apparel Body Construct
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 61~77
The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.
A Study of the Present Phenomenon of Togetherness in Modern Korean Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 79~89
We can see various cultural elements appeared in modern fashion, of which Korean traditional cultural elements are being reinterpreted in many different ways. This study is to analyse on the basis of togetherness concept Korean traditional elements, which have been considered difficult to interpret by postmodernism and find the ways how to carry on our traditional culture practically in order to prepare the foundation for globalization of our tradition. Togetherness means 'with' or 'simultaneously', which also conveys the meaning of common cause and result, addition and annex, opposition and juxtaposition, or accumulation and integration. Characteristics of the togetherness appeared in Korean fashion are as follows. First of all, it shows the aspect of mixing and integration of different cultural fashion elements around the globe, which have been made possible in the course of globalization and development of information technology. The second characteristic is crossing and synchronization, which means that many different individual fashion elements in terms of time and space are being crossed over and integrated these days. Thirdly, continuation meaning 'without cease' and 'keep going' shows that togetherness is to create a whole new fashion trend by mixing postmodern revivalism and past clothing elements. Togetherness makes it possible for us to find reasons why tradition aspects are expressed so vividly in the modern clothing, gives us a standard to classify the reasons, establishes an identity and offers theoretical background for globalization of traditional clothing in the course of modernization of our tradition.
Experimental Design Depicted on Hussein Chalayan' Works
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 91~107
The purpose of this study was to investigate the experimental design by using deconstructive design and mobile design depicted on Hussein Chalayan' works. Hussein Chalayan, the Turkish-Cypriot who is based in London, says' Challenging is the best word for me'. And so word, 'radical' that has difficult connotations was chosen for this study It implies two menainigs for the word. The first thing is "extreme" - something that is drastic. And 'Applied to clothes', it can probably mean "experimental". He has iconoclastic ideas and his ramp shows are always high on concept, experimentation of art and utility. His approach to fashion derives from philosophical and intellectual theories of deconstruction and mobility, which he expresses through his designs. Deconstructionism, in fashion, rejects customary rules and breaks all conventions. It questions aesthetic norms about bodily proportions and the criteria of beauty, emphasizes the adding on, or discovery of, an irrational moment, and reveals the processes of tailoring in clothing. The shape and the construction of the garment is more important than the color. Cuts. tears, asymmetries, matching different materials are among the most evident features of the deconstructive design. And Chalayan performed the mobile design of transforming furniture into clothes. Chair covers became dresses. a coffee table became a skirt which were designed by Chalayan, with geometric and architectural references. Chalayan says he was inspired by the idea of refugees fleeing. Besides Chalayan uses clothing as an art to reinterpret and reform the human body in a continuous tour de force of body/identity conceptualism and dressmaking. He reflect the body's function in the cultural context of architecture, science, or nature - and then attempt to translate his findings into clothing.dings into clothing.
Study on Total Fashion in Orientalism Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 109~127
As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.
A Study on the Wedding Veil (Kyung)(2)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 129~144
Kyung(경, 경의), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China, When dynasty is changing, wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(경) was sleeves attached dress form. But, after Dang(당) and Song(송) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(면의). from Buyo(부여) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(고려) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(몽수), and Kedu(개두). When Chosun(조선) Dynasty, Kyunguei(경의), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, so to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(경의) , in the papanquin. and take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also Chosun dynasty has been another Queen's wedding ceremonial veil 'myunui (면의)'. It has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Juckui(적의) . And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also. common people has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Youmui(염의). And. take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also common people has been put on the Mongsuui(몽수의,장의). head dress with ceremonial dress round neck dress. And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony.
A Study on the Blended Tabby of the Chosen Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 145~154
1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.
Aesthetic Values of Eclectic Functionalist Fashion Design in the 1990s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 155~172
The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.
The origination and Changes of Street Style on the Development of Rock Music
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 173~186
Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.
A Study on the Clothing Quality and Service Quality of Internet Shopping Mall According to Clothing Involvement
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 5, 2002, Pages 187~196
The purpose of this study was to clarify differences in their perceptions in relation to clothing quality and service quality of internet shopping mall according to classified consumer groups by clothing involvement. The 248 questionnaires were collected from female and male students of university who experienced browsing at the website for clothing shopping. Using SPSS Win package, Cronbach's
, frequency. percentage, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, SNK multiple range test and multiple regression analysis were performed. The results could be summarized as follows. First. the dimension of clothing involvement divided consumers into three different groups: fashion/importance group, pleasure group and symbol group. Second, the significant differences among the classified clothing involvement groups were found in the perceptions in relation to clothing product quality and service quality of internet shopping mall. Third. pleasure and symbol of clothing involvement, physical attributes and expressive goals of clothing quality, and product assortment and promotion of service quality in the internet shopping mall had an effect on the purchase intend of internet shopping mall.