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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
The Costume of Young Girls Damcers is Yon Wha Dae Moo of Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 1~13
This paper investigated the costumes of young girl dancers in Yon wha dae moo(연화대무: Lotus Stage dance) which were documented on the Ak-hak-guae-bum(악학궤범: Protocol of music) and the Jin-yeon-eui-guae(진연의궤: Archives of Royal Feast). The fashion of the costumes can be changed into three phases, based mainly on the changes of Hap-rip(합립: silk hat), Dan-eui(단의: long jacket) and Sang(상: apron type skirt). In the first phase the costume consisted of Hap-rip, round neck-line Dan-eui and tiered skirt decorated with pleat and Yu-so(유소: decorated cords). In the second phase. it consisted of Hap-rip, v-shape neck-line Dan-eui and skirt without pleat. In the third phase, it consisted of Yeon-wha-gwan(연화관: Lotus shape cap), round neck-line Dan-eui of later era and skirt with pleat and Yu-so. Yon-wha-dae dance appears to be adopted from Ja-ji-mu( 자지무: chinese dance) that originated in West and Central Asia. In both dances. young girl dancers danced mainly jump and spin. The costume of round neck-line Dan-eui seems to have been affected by the fashion in Dang Dynasty when young girls loved to wear Dan-ryung(단령: male coat with round neckline). And it satisfied the need of mobility for the dance which was Performed mainly with jump.
The Trend of Clothing Colors Fitted for Personal Color Types
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 15~24
This paper is to investigate and analyze the clothing colors fitted for personal color types and to help consumers express individual characteristics by clothing colors suitable for themselves. The comparison of sixty three clothing colors with three personal color types. and investigation and analysis of the best clothing colors of each type have led to the following results. Those belong to warm Personal Color Type don't have a variety of choices for clothing colors. so they should be careful of choosing clothing colors. They will do well to choose dark tone colors for their clothing. Those of Cold Personal color Type have a wide range of choices for clothing colors. They have an advantage of expressing themselves in various ways. Neutrals, Blue and Yellow have been found to go well with them. Those of Mixed Personal Type are advised to wear bright and pale tone colors such as Purple, Green, and Red. It will be desirable that the choice of clothing colors should conform to each personal color for the tones of clothing colors should conform to each personal color for the tones of clothing colors make difference according to personal color types.
Dressing Practices of Residents at the Woinarodo Region
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 25~39
The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.
The Classified Korean Clothing Image by Brainstorming Method -focus on the image "The Land of Morning Calm"-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 41~50
The purpose of this study is to classify korean clothing image using brainstorming method. Brainstorming theme is selected 'The Land of Morning Calm 'which famed to foreigner about Korea. Brainstorming members were 10 persons for 1st. 9 persons for End. The 119 words of association from 'morning calm'were to extracted at 1st brainstorming. The group of senses image were to classified at End brainstorming. The results of this study were as follows : 1. The clothing image type of tactual sense implied feeling of that downy bedding in a soft spring and grandmother's hands as warm. rough. 2. The clothing image type of smelling sense associated smells of pleasant. mild. and fresh. 3. The clothing image type of auditive sense consisted mainly sense of indirect. resonance. small, and clear sounds. 4. The clothing image type of visual sense associated pure, passive, gentle, and lasting life-force as weeds and wild flowers. Korean line is pointless and rounded curve. Korean form is soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate and wavy detail of slim and short. Korean color is not dyed, just natural color and pastel tone. Korean textile is a natural material as linen, ramie. and coarse silk.
A Experimental Study on the Visual Effect of Details on Ensemble Suits (I) -for Elderly Women-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 51~69
The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.
A Study on the Need, Self-Esteem and Aesthetic Surgery Attitude of Female
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 71~83
The purpose of this study was to investigate the causal relationships of need, self-esteem, body satisfaction on aesthetic surgery attitude of female. The method of the study was survey research by using questionnaires. Subjects were 813 females of 10's to 40's living in Daejeon Metropolitan City and Gongju City, Chungchungnamdo. Statistical analysis methods were one-way ANOVA. Duncan's multiple range test, Pearson's correlation coefficient, and multiple regression analysis. The results of the study were as follows. Women with lower body satisfaction and self-esteem had a tendency to keep the secret of aesthetic surgery. Women in higher social class and having higher need for dominance showed also strong tendency to keep the secret of aesthetic surgery. Women with lower body satisfaction and having higher needs for achievement and exhibition appreciated the value of aesthetic surgery more. Women with lower body satisfaction and self-esteem but with higher need for exhibition and dominance were more willing to confirm the aesthetic surgery Women with higher need for dominance but with lower self-esteem and body satisfaction were more willing to undergo aesthetic surgery in spite of high cost of surgery. Women having lower self-esteem, lower need for achievement, and lower body satisfaction were more willing to admit the risk tolerance of aesthetic surgery. As a conclusion, need, self-esteem, and body satisfaction constituted important characteristics which could affect aesthetic surgery attitude directly. Women having higher need were more willing to admit the change of body shape via aesthetic surgery.
The Aesthetic Values of 20th Century Functionalist Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 85~102
The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 20th century by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts and studying functionalism in fashion design and architectural and product design by the comparative. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 20th century makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the moderns and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and comparative study have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism stressed in the beginning of the 20th century can be defined and categorized using three analogies, mechanical analogy of futuristic quality based on mechanical aesthetics and standardization by mass production, organic analogy in which the perfect beauty of nature is stressed on, moral analogy of fitness for purpose and absence of ornament based on integrity and sincerity. In while, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from those analogies. In comparative studies, functionalist fashion design and architectural and product design have the dissimilarity as well as the similarity of formative features. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs.
A Study of Adapting Women's Pyoeui of Chosun Era to Wedding Dress
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 103~114
The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean aesthetics to the design of Wedding dress. For this study. Chosun Women's Pyoeui(coat) were considered. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jugeui, Wonsam, Hwalos, Dangeui, and Jangeui. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the aesthetical values describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern, and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the aesthetical values about Women's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt Korean aesthetics to the design of Wedding dress.
A Study on the Noble Lady's Costumes of 18 Centuries -excavated from Andong Gwon's(1664~1722) grave-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 115~126
This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.
A Study on POPs Application Cases in ISM(In-Store Merchandising) for Cosmetics
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 127~137
The purposes of this study were to compare and analyze application cases of POP(Point of Purchase) in each ISM(In Store Merchandising) for domestic and imported cosmetics. to present basic data for setting up effective marketing strategies according to types of ISM. The results were as follows : 1. In the Department Stores, counselling comers for customers were located at all domestic and imported cosmetics. A small quantify of new release cosmetic items were displayed in order to elevate those added value in most cosmetics floors excepts Estee Lauder. 2. In the Discount Stores, most cosmetic items were displayed in category or in color for customers to choose those easily. 3. In the Cosmetics Specialties. display for show case couldn't be accessible by customers and cosmetic items were disordered because too many itmes from various companies were displayed
A Study on the Symbolic Meaning and Influence of Punk Style
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 139~164
The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.
The 'Be Slow'Movement and Its Impact on the Current Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 6, 2002, Pages 165~179
This paper begins with the thesis that the so-called 'Be Slow' Movement has not only affected the contemporary life style but also the current fashion trend in the West as well as in Korea. The influence of the 'Be Slow' Movement on the everyday life of Western and Korean society can be documented by recent books, news reports, and many articles from various kinds of mass media and fashion magazines since the year 2000. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First. the 'Be Slow' Movement is a new cultural phenomenon and very different from that of the past century. It has emerged very recently and it could affect the life style o( its followers for a long period of time. Second, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on everyday life can be witnessed in many behavioral choices. such as the preference of organic food and natural cooking for food and the preference of rural life and a green patch of land for housing. Some aspects of the way of rearing the children and long-term planning of one's life are also under the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement. In a way. the life style Proposed by the 'Be Slow' Movement is somewhat similar to that of 'Bobos'. Third, the influence of 'Be Slow' Movement on the current fashion trend can be observed in the appreciation of time-consuming labour and increased usage of D.I.Y. clothing. The higher value of fashion goods with handcrafted part or scarce luxury item are good examples of the influence by the 'Be Slow' Movement. One can say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is not retrogression, but a re-creation of time and space to be grateful for one's life. Thus, it is not anti-technology but a commercialism with technology in order to enhance the quality of life and to place people in the center of production and consumption. Consequently, one may say that the 'Be Slow' Movement is a appropriate and affluent way of living.