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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 52, Issue 8 - Dec 2002
Volume 52, Issue 7 - Nov 2002
Volume 52, Issue 6 - Sep 2002
Volume 52, Issue 5 - Aug 2002
Volume 52, Issue 4 - Jul 2002
Volume 52, Issue 3 - May 2002
Volume 52, Issue 2 - Mar 2002
Volume 52, Issue 1 - Jan 2002
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Figuration of Floral Pattern of Baroque Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 1~11
The shape of floral Pattern in the Period of Baroque could be divided single. bunch and vine. The style of representation was stylized, abstract and realistic. the most of style was stylized. The type of composition was fullness, independent and scattered. Floral patterns were shaped simple and complex and components of design could be classified into flower and leaf. flower and fruit. flower and band. bunch of flower, flower and geometry. flower and pot, flower and animal. flower and crest. Kinds of flower were tulip. common marigold, lily, carnation, small bel]flower. lotus, acandus leaf, pomegranate, strawberry. pine cone and abstract anonymous flower which were unfolded by repeat. Characters of floral Pattern were classical elegance, taste of royalty and lively and damask, velvet, brocade which made with gold and silver so, those were a very brilliant and gorgeous. Characters of design were illustrated plane style and stylization where developed arranged on front by repeat or repeat symmetric of vertical. Art, costumes and textiles in this era were a very rich and colorful. The result of study on Baroque's floral pattern will be used to develope a various textile design and chance to be adopted classical pattern into aesthetic value in our time.
A Study on the Creative Expression of Fashion illustration - Focusing on The Expression of Elements -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 13~25
The purpose of this study is to develope a creative expression technique in fashion illustration through analyzing applied techniques of the elements related to creative expressions in fashion illustrations. They were investigated in view of line, form, texture, color, space and the results were summarized as follows. In the creative expression using line in the fashion illustration. emotional effects of line created by specific character of mediums and duplicated lines have been applied to visualize movements of the objects. In shape, the transformed figure by destructing. covering or eliminating a part of the figure or the dress has been adapted. In texture. the invented texture reconstructed from actual texture has been applied, collage technique. computer graphic being used to give various images of texture. The creative expressions using color have been achieved by the shading. and spreading effects and the symbolic meaning of color for creating a spatiality in a picture plane and to give emotional effects and visual concentricity. In space, the color perspective together with detailed description. the combination of various points of view and liner perspective have been used to create depth and illusional space in pictorial plane.
A Study on Lithuanian Folkcostume from 19th Century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 27~44
The Folk-dress of some parts of the traditional style is extremely focused and puts value on protecting itself against changes. Generally rural areas are much more conservative politically economically, and culturally. Its environment is sluggish and slow and daily routines change slowly. So they take friendly a position between a race and geographical and environmental differences which is expressed in the Folk-dress. Also, a dress is the most preferred individual object as a symbol of collective homogeneity. By those people who preserve these kinds of the individual objects and by those people who have ethnic conservation, folk-dress was handed down to the present age and the festival dress was used as a tool of ethnic tradition and binding. Therefore, 1 would like to study and research the differences between the folk-dress of the Lithuanian historical and geographical factors and the folk-dress of the surrounding north-eastern European countries. Especially when we compare these with the folk-dress in terms of historical, cultural. and political relationships between Lithuania and the north-eastern European countries, we can find out that they had a good effect on the folk-dress historically and culturally.
A Study on the Men's Trousers in the Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 45~55
This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women's pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men's pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn't show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (the pants opened low parts). which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO. and the pants were designed not to show out. it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636. changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes. the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style. The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women's only as men's pants become SAPOK-BAJI.
A Study on the Shopping Attitude and the Apparel Purchase Behavior of Korean High-Income Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 57~69
The Purpose of this study were to find out general characteristics of apparel purchase behavior of high-income consumers, and to segment the high-income consumers according to their shopping attitude. One hundred and ninety-five high-income consumers living in Kang-nam area of Seoul were surveyed. and the following results were found : 1) high-income consumers were less conscious of 'price'. and more conscious of'prestige'and'design'compared to the ordinary consumers. (2) and prefer information they gain during store shopping to mass communication information. (3) High-income consumers were more agreed on 'price-conscious shopping attitude' than 'conspicuous' & 'hedonic shopping attitude'. (4) According to shopping attitude, high-income consumers were divided into two different segments. 'conspicuous&hedonic group' and 'reasonable shopping group', and their age, income, and purchase behavior factors were significantly different from each other.
A Study on the Evaluation Factors of Websites that Offer Clothing and Ornament Related Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 71~85
The purpose of this study is (1) to research on the diverse evaluation criteria suggested in the existing literatures, selected the contents of the evaluation according to the evaluation factors, and examined whether they are appropriate for the evaluation of websites that offer Clothing and Ornament related information through reliability analysis - all to set the evaluation criteria for the websites that acquire data. In addition. (2) contents of evaluation which are deemed important by the users and developers were compared and recommended as the detailed evaluation contents according to evaluation factors. The results of this study were as follows. 1. The evaluation factors for the fashion websites that provide Clothing and Ornament related information were selected as follows: contents of the information(11 contents of evaluation), ease of use(12), screen design(10), accessibility(9), sensitive enjoyment(4), scope of information use(3), purpose(1), and target user(1). As result of reliability analysis. Cronbach's a contents of the information (0.76), ease of use (0.77), screen design (0.85), accessibility (0.81), sensitive enjoyment (0.71), and scope of information use (0.52). 2. When the level of importance for the detailed evaluation contents was examined from the user and developer point of view, recency of information. rapid speed for the websites access. fast loading of webtext and fast transmission speed topped the list as first, second and third places.
A Study on Color Makeup Preference by Pursuing Clothing Image and Clothing Behavior
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 87~102
This study is designed to find women's makeup color preferences according to their pursuing clothing image and clothing behavior. Subjects were 515 women. from 18 years to 40 years old, who are interested in color makeup and use various products. The SPSS statistical program was used for analyzing the demonstrative results of questionnaire survey. The results of this study are as follows : 1. According to color makeup preference by the pursuing image in clothing. those groups who want to have conservative and neat image and who prefer feminine and intellectual image showed the preference of brown lipsticks and eye-shadows, while groups who want to have vivid image preferred orange lipsticks and pink eye-shadows. 2. In the case of casuals, all groups preferred pink eye-shadows and lipsticks. While those groups who want to have intellectual image preferred brown lines after pint groups who want to have sexy and vivid image preferred orange and red lipsticks and blue and green eye- shadows. 3. In preference comparison of color makeup by clothing behavior, those groups who attach practicality, symbol for social status. and social acknowledgment preferred red and brown lipsticks, and brown eye-shadows. 4. In the case of wearing casuals, all groups liked pink eye-shadows and lipsticks the best. whereas the group who want to have social acknowledgment Preferred beige lipsticks and brown eye-shadows.
A Study on the Transition of Design of Korean Soccer Uniform -Based on national soccer players uniform-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 103~121
This study intended to analyze the transition of design of Korean soccer player's uniform according to development of the society and changes in formative elements, and examine features inside them by considering designs of soccer player's uniform by ages ranging from the introduction of soccer up to now. Results of the study are summed up below. First, as a result of analyzing designs of soccer player's uniforms from 1920 to 2002 Korea-Japan WorldCup based on formative elements of the style of dress. \circled1 it is shown that basic shape has been kept but changes in only color. cutting, trimming, logo and symbol have existed. \circled2 Colors of the uniforms have been different according to ages but red, blue and white colors have been used most and sometimes black was employed. so it is known that colors in the Korean national emblem have been all used. \circled3 In the beginning of the uniform there was a limitation in its design due to absence of functional materials but now highly-sensitive textile products and highly-functional textile materials guaranteeing optimal condition and highest activity of a soccer player have been utilized in various ways. \circled4 It is known that symbols modelling the image of Korea have been used in diverse ways but effected much by directions toward images pursued by designers of sponsors. Second, the meanings represented by designs of the uniforms are classified into a degree of symbolizing Korea, tradition, superiority and dynamics. That is to say, \circled1as colors and symbols coming from the emblem have been used in the uniforms. they have symbolized one nation and possessed the meaning representing even Korean national spirit. \circled2As traditional colouring and symbols have been used in the uniforms, they have shown the Korean sense of a beauty. \circled3 Colors, tones and designs overwhelming the mood of play have been used in the uniforms, so that they have played a role in making players of other team flinch mentally and making Korean players gain an advantage over them. \circled4 Thanks to strong symbols or comparative effects of colors. they have shown the dynamics representing power and energy.
A Study on Court's Dancing Costume - A Comparison between the Court's Dancing Costume and the People's Clothes -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 123~138
This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.
The Fashion Communication Media and the Beauty of Ideal Body (I) - Focusing on the Fashion Communication Media -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 139~154
This study selects mannequins. fashion models. and fashion photographs as communication media to express the beauty of an ideal body. Each medium is discussed by the denotative and connotative aspects through the semiology. First, the mannequins are the most concrete medium which can form women's ideal body types and reproduce images in which the idealistic human body are coded in various figures. It embodies such various figures of the modem society by being replaced with the symbolic representation of our intrinsic·extrinsic forms. From a denotative view, the mannequins can be explained by ideal body types and expressive tools. The mannequin has implied connotative meanings of the similarity and dissimilarity between the actual body and itself. Second, fashion models have played a role in transmitting fashion images and presenting the ideal body. As fashion has adopted the body as its object fashion models have been used to express an ideal body. The development of the mass media in the 20th century has defined the standard of the beauty, Both the relationship between fashion designers and fashion models. and the standardization of beauty and fashion models are reviewed from a denotative view. Fashion models imply connotative meanings of the figurative and the controlled property. Third, fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. The photographs could be adopted as proper means to express fashion. having realistic and practical expressional functions, and it can be said that the realistic and practical expressional function of photographs has served as a suitable means for express fashion, and fashion photographs are discussed. The fashion photograph has the reproducible and the symbolic property.
A Study on the Symbolism of Jeans Fashion -Focusing on the Designer Brand-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 155~166
The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.
A Study on the Costumes of the Mongol Naadam Festival
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 52, issue 7, 2002, Pages 167~177
This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition.
Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots.
Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots.
Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups
The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion.
The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.