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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
A Study on Formality the Dancing Costume of Middle Age (Focus on 13C-15C)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 1~15
This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.
A Study on the Rank System of Official Uniforms of Qing Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 17~34
This paper investigates the rank system of official uniforms of Qing dynasty to analyze ethnic characteristics of the official uniforms. As a research document, Qing Huidian Tu(청회전도) has been used. The official uniforms of Qing dynasty were chao-fu(조복), ji-fu(길복), chang-fu(상복), hang-fu(행복), and yu-fu(우복), which were used in different occasions. Each of the five official uniforms had distinct items. For example, chao-fu(조복) consisted of four items: chao-guan(조관), chao-fu(조복), chao-dai(조대), and chao-zhu(조주), and ji-fu(길복) consisted of four items: ji-fu-guan(길복관), long-pao(용포), ji-fu-dai(길복대), and chao-zhu(조주). Each of these items had elements that made distinction between ranks. This research shows that the important elements to make distinction between ranks were textiles, precious stones, patterns and colors, and additionally the number of Bo(보) and the types of Bo(보) were used.
Study on Image of Future in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 35~48
The primary goal of this study is to define the future image of modern fashion. By review of many references, this study has examined predictable future in common, various researches on future, and futurism that appeared from art history. This study has also identified the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion as well. The purpose of this study is defined as future image of modern fashion. First of all. through a large literature, this study is to examine general future and the study of future, to investigate futurism appears from art history. and to identify the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion. The main results of this study include : 1) General future means forthcoming sometime or a state of life at that time, and future is not drawing near naturally in accordance with the passage of time. The future is developed according as which the owners of time have independent meaning and what they select. 2) The futurism had started with the background based on Darwins and Einsteins scientific theories and Bergsons and Nietzsches philosophical thoughts, which was then established by Marinettis Futurism Statement and Dynamism Theory of Umberto Boccionio, Giaomo Balla, Luigi Russolo and Gino Severini. As the purpose of futurism is to represent the dynamism of machinery and the beauty of speed, it has been developed toward op art and kinetic art including video art, laser art, and holography. 3) Fashion style and trend of futurism from the beginning of 20th century up to now can be defined as follows : Firstly futurism fashion represented by loud colors and geometric pattern appeared from 1910s to 1930s in the first place. Secondly, or art fashion and kinetic fashion appeared in 1960s due to the influence of op art and kinetic art which were developmental arts of futurism paintings. Space Look and Cosmo Corps Look that were designed by Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Rudi Gernreich and Paco Rabanne, were also the trend of future image fashion. Thirdly, various materials and techniques developed this future image fashion in 1980s, and Glitter Look and Collage Look were its representative style. Fourthly, in 1990s, human beings dreamed the freedom of mind by human-oriented thought. and created the ecology of new concept mixed with technology due to anxiety on environmental destruction. which influenced on the advent of Zen style.
The Research on Post-modern Feminism and the Expression of the Post-Fixation of Body Pettern
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 49~66
In the relationship between post-modern feminism and the body. the body of women, which has been taken as 'other' by dominant arguments, has escaped from the fixed idea at post-modern times and the post-modern feminists tried to escape from the taste of the times about body image that was prevalent in the former times.'The taste of the times' here means the fixed physical form of ideal women's body by the educational custom, and it includes the educational prescription which establishes the docile body of women. This kind of educational custom aims at the perfect and permanent restriction on size, shape, desire, attitude and movement as well as on the overall demeanor and each part of the body. And the custom produces 'dependent and trained'. that is, inferiorized women's body. Hence, this paper points out that the feminity as a fixed Physical form should be overcome in order to move forward, and as one part of the effort, it attempts to analyze the designs which deformed and distorted women's body in 1990s. This research indicates that the work, which tries to deviate the fantasized and casted women's mystery, has been closely connected with the expression of 'non-separate bodies' and 'irregular body shapes' in 1990s, which aims at escaping from the fixation of women's body Image. Therefore, it is concluded that the target design trend of this research, which expressed the deformation and perversion of the body, provides the anti-these against the ideal body image of women and the these of feminity. which have been reproduced in various methods and patterns throughout the public and the culture on the whole by expressing the refusal and deviation of the existing women's body image through the post-fixation of the body pattern.
A Study on Lotus Patterns of Chinese Lucky Omen Patterns
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 67~75
From ancient times. lotus pattern had esthetic factor and symbolic factor. Lotus pattern was introduced to China, and it was grafted together with Chinese peculiar culture symbol system, thereafter it has changed and developed. The Chinese taking a serious view meaning that things include, and they frequently use several lucky omen patterns in their everyday life. In this study, I investigated laying stress on symbolism about Lotus patterns of China lucky omen patterns, and I wanted to present possibility that can approach to Chinese culture in new angle. Through result of this study, symbol of Lotus patterns can divide two directions. First, symbol by natural properties of lotus are same as following. 1. Lotus grows in the mud, but it is uncontaminated - clearness and uprightness, 2. Root, branches, loaves and flowers are vegetative together, and all of basis and branches are exuberant. - plenty, 3. Bear fruit simultaneously with blooming, and it is procreant. - fecundity and many descendants. Symbol that use same pronunciation and intention are same as following. 1. 'Lian(연)'-'Lian(연)' : repeatability, continuance, plenty and intercommunicate, 2. 'Lian(연)'-'Lian(염)': integrity, 3. 'He (하)'-'He(화)' : peace, harmony and combination, 4. 'He(하)'-'He(하)' : clear river, 5.'He(하)'-'He(하)' ; all work goes well. When the Chinese use lotus patterns in lucky omen patterns, same pronunciation and pitch of Chinese language more prominent than natural properties or the image of Buddhism. I guess that it cause praying individual's peace and happiness more serious than philosophical meaning or symbol that base in Buddhism for ordinary people.
Research on the Influences of Political Forties on Fashion Styles in Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 77~85
The following results are from a research on the influences of the political parties on the fashion styles. which political power was strugg1ed with each other were one of the political Phenomena featuring Chosun Dynasty. Partisan fashion styles are mainly divided into two groups : NohRon (노론) and SohRon (소론). Nonetheless. NmIn (남인) also shows several unique traits. BukIn (북인). however, does not seem to be retaining any unique styling features. which believed to be caused by lack of political Power. The style of NohRon represents the status of a ruling party, which generally had abundant resources and the image of a conservatism. On the contrary, with SohRon's style, swiftness and reform-minded images could be found. Moreover, the NohRon's style is generally known to present, as the representing the way of noble men of Chosun Dynasty wore in the past. The reason seems to have stemmed from its status as the last ruling party in Chosun Dynasty. Thus, many people of the age mimicked the style, and it gained general acceptance in turns. Consequently, it is still deemed as the prevalent style of Chosun Dynasty.
A Study on the Body Image and Life-style
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 87~98
The purpose of this study was to investigate body image as attitude toward physical appearance, and appearance-management behavior, and to analyze the relationship between body image and life style which affects consumer behavior. The method of the study was survey research by using questionnaires. Subjects were 323 women in their twenties. Statistical analysis methods were frequency, percentage. factor analysis, discrimination analysis, one-way ANOVA, x 2- test, and Duncan's multiple range test. The results of the study were as follows. As for appearance-management behaviors of woman in her twenties. 60.1% of all respondents experienced in diet. 31.6% experienced in plastic operation, 47.4% experienced in skin care, 44.9% experienced in perfect make up, and 84.8% experienced in hair dyeing. The group with high appearance concern showed high body satisfaction. Life-style factors were analyzed into 5 factors. The group with low appearance concern considered active family-focus life factor importantly, the group with middle appearance concern considered social life factor, and the group with high appearance concern considered self-focus life type and conspicuous consumption life factor. A significant difference was found in body image between groups according to social level and demographic characteristics. The female group in the mid twenties who majors in arts and athletics, resides on southern part of Han river, and belongs to high society was analyzed to show high appearance concern and body satisfaction. and many experiences of appearance-management behaviors.
A Study on the Design of Knit be based Knitting Technique -Focused on the Exhibition-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 99~116
Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.
Analysis of Current Size Establishment of Clothing Sizes in China
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 117~128
For the advance of Korea's ready-made clothes industry into China, we need some information about the body types of the Chinese and the sizes of ready-made clothes. The purpose of this study is to prepare basic data about the reality and process of the size establishment of clothing sizes in China. The conclusions are as follows. 1. Clothing size establishment was made three times in 1981, 1991, and 1997. At present, the version of 'GB/T 1335-1997 Size' is used. 2. 'GB/T 1335-1997 Size' is composed as follows. \circled1 Based on the drop values of chest girth and waist girth, 4 (Y. A, B, C) body types of adult men and women were chosen. \circled2 Sizes contains Ho and Hyoung, 'Ho' refer to height (cm) and serve as the standard of length, while 'Hyoung' indicate chest girth (cm) and act as the standard of girth. \circled3 The size divisions of the 3 basic items for adults are 5cm (height), 4cm (chest girth), and 2cm (waist girth). So they are named '5ㆍ4, 5ㆍ2 size series', \circled4 For grading in dress production, approximate values to the means of the 2 basic items are called 'center types'.\circled5 Other necessary items for clothing design besides 3 basic items are named 'control items'. \circled6 For babies, children, and adolescents, no body type classification is established. Instead, size series are established according to body height.
A Study on Sob Nomad's Culture and Fashion Style
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 129~141
Much has been said in the 21st century about advanced information society following industrial society, so information appeared obviously. Based on the development of digital network due to such highly developed information, foresee a new phenomenon in anthropology. The new phenomenon is urban nomad such jobnomad who may change the culture of settlement with a long history into the culture of nomad. This study was to analyze the culture and fashion style of job nomad who may be a trend of fashion in the future. The results of this study are as follows Firstly, the features of job nomad are new communication technology and information technology called new media. And key words for job nomad are non-possession and professionalism and their feature in labor is one(1) person project. Secondly, job nomad to be a trend of future fashion is seeking wearable electric machine - wearable computer fashion. Thirdly, Zen style fashion reflecting Zen idea has such features as naturalism. indeterminism, equalitarianism, and moderation. Those features coincide with the tendency of job nomad who may lead the culture of fashion in the 21st century and do with human being's life style in the 21st century. Expect that job nomad appears newly in social and cultural phenomenon through this study can be developed toward a new and sensible fashion.
An Analysis of Oriental Dress Aesthetics Shown in the 197us Western Dress
Nam-Kyung Jang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 143~157
The Research of Pin-up Style's Influence on Fashion
Young-Sam Kim ; Heungsook Chung ; Sun-Hwa Kim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 1, 2003, Pages 159~170