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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
Christians' Consciousness on the Christian Ceremonial Dress
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 1~11
This study is to clarify the true meaning of christian ceremonial dress, based on the Biblical background, by examining the origin and the symbolic meaning of the Catholic ceremonial dress. The influence of the Liturgical movement on the ceremonial dress and the changes in the symbolic meaning of the Christian ceremonial dress are studied. This research also aims to closely examine the difference in Christians' consciousness on the Christian ceremonial dress such as gown, stole, and clergy shirt. It aims to provide basic resources for the education and further study on the Christian ceremonial dress through reconfirming the basic understanding and the symbolic meaning of the Christian ceremonial dress. As a result, according to the lesson of the Bible and the ideology of the Reformation, it is suggested that priests should wear regular suits or the traditional Hanbok rather than wearing gown or Roman collar. However, if most of Christians believe that it is critical to wear ceremonial dress to project holiness and seriousness during the service, it is suggested that priest should wear gown only and avoid Roman collar and stole because they only show the hierarchy of priests. Accordingly, there is a hope in this research that the knowledge of ceremonial dress could be re-defined based on the Evangelism in the Bible though the results of the study.
A Study on the Subcultural Style in the 1990s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 13~31
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative style and aesthetic value of contemporary subcultural style with the understanding of characteristics of subcultural style in the sociocultural context. As for the research methodology, literary survey has been performed to study the concept and the history of subcultural styles from 1940s to 1980s. In addition, demonstrative studies on aesthetic images have been carried out through the analysis of pictures and photographs in order to categorize the subcultural styles since 1990s. In this study, subcultural styles since 1990s have been illustrated through the socio-cultural grounds. which are diversity of street culture, diffusion of moss culture or bubble-up phenomenon, pursuit of anti-social ideology among intellectual heads, club Cultures in the form of kitsch and pastiche and communal thinking as collective harmony. With the socio-cultural context examined above, subcultural styles in the contemporary fashion are categorized and deduced following aesthetic values ; Drag and Club style as the tendency of surrealists or artificial hedonists, Urban military style and Cyberpunks as pursuit of Bionic being, Sports casual style based upon, the pursuit of comfort and freedom, Vintage style and Retro dressing represented by the spirit of DIY (no It Yourself), Ecology style of New conservatives, and Mysticism style as the fusion of technology and shamanism (Technoshamanism).
A Study on the Clothing Culture for New Generation of Korea and Japan
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 31~49
The Purpose of this research is to examine and contrast the cultural characteristics of the street fashion in new generations of Korea and Japan. We also intended to help clothing companies understand the current trend in this new generation. As the method for street fashion analysis. various literature, internet information and new media materials were utilized. Key observations obtained are as following First, they pursue a complex image. New generations seem to admix images from different areas to create a synthetic image, rather than adopting a single image; Second, practicality is an important factor. They Pursue a sense of their own unique trend: Third, distinction. The difference in society values between Koreans and Japanese is incorporated. The Korean new generation considers the traditional moral principles as important social values. In contrast the Japanese new generation is greatly influenced by the open sexuality culture ; Fourth. public ownership and sharing of the culture. There is a gradual deviation from a dominating unidirectional influence from one country on another. Now the two countries are influencing each other ; Fifth, sense. There are numerous fashion items and generalized total coordination. New generations express more active and creative fashion sense in those fashion items.
The Types and Characteristics of Gauze Fabric of Ancient Korea II - Focused on Gauze Fabrics Found at Sukga Pagoda -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 51~61
1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.
Somatotype Classification in the Upper Half of Body of Elementary School Boys at the Ages 11 to 12
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 63~72
The purposes of this study were to classify the upper half of body somatotype and analyze the characteristics of each somatotype. The subjects of survey were 272 elementary school boys of 11 to 12 years old living in Pusan and Kyungsangnam-do. Datas were collected through 36 anthropometric measurements and 7 photographic measurements. They were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and analysis of variance. The results of the study were as follows : 1. According to the factor analysis. seven factors were extracted from measurements of the upper half of body and those factors comprised 79.62% of total variance. Specially factor 1 was characterized sectional size and factor 2 was characterized longitudinal size comprised 58.83% of total variance. 2. According to the cluster analysis, the upper half of body somatotype was classified four types : Boys in type 1 had quite high stature and big frame, broadest and most sloping shoulders, flattest chest and belly, quite protruded shoulder blades boys in type 2 had quite short stature and small frame, quite broad and most rising shoulder, most protruded belly, quite protruded shoulder blades boys in type 3 had shortest stature, smallest frame, narrowest and quite rising shoulders, most protruded chest, flattest shoulder blade and quite flat belly : boys in type 4 had highest stature, biggest frame, most protruded shoulder blades and quite protruded chest and belly.
The Excavated Costume front Mrs. Jung(1665~1614)'s Grave - Focused on the Funeral Custom and Shroud in the Early 17th Century -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 73~87
The custom and shroud for funeral rites of the early 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the grave of Mrs. Jung (1565 - 1614) are studied in this paper. The grave was located in the Pohang, Kyungbuk Province and was excavated in, April 1999. The remains consist of one set of epitaphs, 33 pieces of costume, 7 pieces of cloths, and 14 pieces of funeral accessaries. From these remains, this study newly reveals : 1) a specific funeral custom for the upper class from the fact that her husband, Ja-Hun Ki, was in the position of Prime Minister for the Chosun government when she died, 2) a fact that women also wore a formal dress with round-shaped collar (Dalryoung) and a concubine could use rectangular tablets ((Hyungbae) with peacock pattern according to her husband's rank, 3) a whole set of shroud used for women in the early 17th Century, and 4) specific construction methods for individual shroud.
The Expressive Effects of Queen Elizabeth I's Rebes in Cinema
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 89~106
The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive effects of Queen Elizabeth I's robes in cinema and also to present two examples of Queen Elizabeth I's robes designed and made based on these expressive effects. To this end, this study wilt first examine Queen Elizabeth I's robes in her portraits according to the visual definers and emblematic meanings. Then on the basis of these knowledges, analyze visual definers and viewing priorities of Queen Elizabeth I's robes in five movies. Thereinafter, these robes will be classified based upon Belong(1998)'s four expressive effects. excitement. calmness, strength and delicacy. Finally, this study will demonstrate calmness and delicacy among four expressive effects through two robes made for the purpose. After analyzing the expressive effects of robes in five Queen Elizabeth I's movies, one can conclude excitement. calmness, strength, and delicacy can be found according to the flow of the story. Since this analysis focuses mainly on one particular person during one Particular period of time, there was a fundamental silhouette prevalent among the Queen's robes which then can be classified into different forms. Moreover, Queen's character in itself embodies authority and grace which. in turn, facilitates the presentation of the four expressive effects along the story line. In conclusion, thorough historical research on the character and the period. in addition to analysis of the visual definer and viewing priorities, is imperative when designing a historical costume.
A Study on the Plasticity and Aesthetic Characteristics in the Philip Treacy's Hat Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 107~119
The purpose of this study is to explore ways toward the hat design development by looking into the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the works of Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of the important fashion accessories. This study concretely investigates the formative characteristics of Treacy's hats in terms of shapes, materials, colours and decorations. According to this study, the shape of his hats shows the natural and specific objects in three dimensions, not in basic shape of hats. He uses combination of a variety of materials, adding unique materials to existing ones, so that they not only create a specific atmosphere but also extend the limitation which used to be thought as materials for hats. In the field of colour, he mainly used black and white until 1999, but since 2000 he has been using vivid and splendid colors. And he uses feathers or nets for decorations of the hats. As the result of the comprehensive analysis of Treacy's works, this study characterizes his works by surrealistic, three-dimensional, rhythmic and future-oriented. Therefore, Philip Treacy's hat design can be defined three dimensional considering the formative beauty, and can be characterized by use of unique materials, vivid & bold colours, moderate decorations, f variety of lines, and asymmetrical structures. These characteristics show surrealistic, three-dimensional and futuristic message which rhythm can be felt. He presents unlimited capability in hat designs as a representative of human being's basic will for creating new ones beyond this real world. It is considered that this study can help broaden the limitation of the hat design which used to repeat simple forms in the Past and help explore ways for developmental direction of hat design in the future.
A Study on Dress During the 16th Century of Chosun Dynasty through "Kiyeonghoido" - Focusing Men's Costume -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 121~135
This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.
A Study on Women's Underwear Structures by Ideal Beauty - Focused on the Former Period of 20th Century -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 137~154
The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.
Casual Hanbok's Image According to Wearing Situation and Purchasing Intention
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 155~163
The purposes of this study were to identify the differences of the Casual Hanbok's image perception according to wearing situation and to certify factors affecting the Casual Hanbok's purchase. Self administered questionnaires were used. The subjects were 596 women in Chonbuk Province and done during August. 2002. Proportion, percentage, mean, factor analysis, ANOVA and multi-regression were done for data analysis. The results were as follows ; 1. Factors in the Casual Hanbok's image perception were fashion, elegant, comfort, innovation and tradition. The total variences were 53.84%. Especially tradition and innovation factors were very Important. 2. Casual Hanbok's perceived image in formal situation were higher in factors of fashion, elegance, comfort, innovation, and tradition than the perceived image in mind. And the image of informal situation was higher in factors of fashion, elegant and innovation than the perceived image in mind. 3. Purchasing intention was affected by the Casual Hanbok's fashion, elegance, innovation, and tradition, and their influence was 18.10%. Casual Hanbok wearing frequencies affected the purchasing intention significantly.
The Influence of Self-Perceived Physical Attractiveness on Self-Esteem and Appearance Management Behavior of Adult Women
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 3, 2003, Pages 165~179
The purpose of this study was to investigate the Influence of self-perceived physical attractiveness on self-esteem and appearance management behavior cf adult women. The data for this study were collected using questionnaire from 511 adult women living in Kwangju, Korea. The data were analysed using frequency, variance analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, and cross-taps. The results were as follows 1. The focuses of respondents' appearance management behaviors were largely centered on facial and skin texture improvement and hair styling. The frequency of all the Plastic surgeries was not so high, but intention of them was much higher than the practice. 2. The self-perceived physical attractiveness of the respondents influenced significantly on their self-esteem. 3. The self-perceived physical attractiveness of the respondents influenced significantly on their several appearance management behaviors excluding plastic surgeries. 4. The self-esteem of respondents influenced significantly on their several appearance management behaviors excluding plastic surgeries.