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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
Sensibility Images of Korean Traditional Chumoni
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 1~16
The purpose of this study is to investigate the sensibility images of Korean Traditional Chumoni. The detailed methodology of this study is as follows. Selections of stimuli to analyse the sensibility images of Korean Traditional Chumoni were made up of 15 stimuli. The survey has been done for the 15 slide stimuli with semantic differential hi-polar scales which are consist of 23 couples of sensibility words. The subjects were 150 female students majoring in clothing and textile. 150 male students majoring in other department and 150 female students majoring in other department in the twenties between 2001. 3. 30 and 2001. 4. 4. The obtained data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis. ANOVA. The major finds were as follows. 1. To explain the hierarchy of the sensibility of Korean Traditional Chumoni, two image groups were classified, one is noble and characteristic image the other is splendid and intensive image. Finally it represented noble and splendid image. 2. As result of the factor analysis. 3 factors which are Attraction, Decorativeness, Gravity were found to be constructing factors for the sensibility images of Korean Traditional Chumoni. 3. By cluster analysis, 4 clusters were determined according to Korean Traditional Chumoni. Cluster 1 is splendid. multi-colored and realistic in patteren. Cluster 2 is consist of 'true chumonis' and one-colored. Cluster 3 is modal in pattern. Cluster 4 is simple without any decorations. As to the difference of image of Korean Traditional Chumoni, there were significant differences amang 3 factors by cluster Cluster 1 was found most attractive and grave. Cluster 2 was found most decorative. 4. As to the difference of image of Korean Traditional Chumoni, there were significant differences amang 3 factors by decoration. Gold foil was found most attractive and grave. Embroidery was found most decorative. 5. As to the difference of image of Korean traditional chumoni, there were differences in Decorativeness and Gravity by sex and there were differences in Attraction by major.
The Study on Long Sleeve Dancing Costumes - from Han to Tang Dynasty -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 17~29
Long Sleeve Costume is often seen not only in ancient China but also in various neighboring places throughout the time. Costumes show the societies cultural preferences and values at that time, and Long Sleeve Costume is no exception. In my research, 1 focused on the time period from Han Dynasty to Tang dynasty in ancient China. During Han dynasty, Shenyl style robe(심의형 포) was widely worn, and it shows very little foreign cultural influence. For the period of Wei·Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, foreign aspects of costume started to show up Possibly due to the influence of Buddhism and influx of foreign tribes. For instance, it is not too difficult to find hufu (호복) as well as Shenyl style robe, and it appears this Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties may have been a transitional period of accommodating two cultures without complete merger. Now, when it comes to Tang dynasty, we observe a creation of new cultural form in costume after adopting exotic culture. Because Sh ny style robe. often observed for a long time in Chinese history, disappeared, and tuanling(단영) and fanling(번영) became the main stream in their costume style in Tang dynasty.
Digital Paradigm Depicted on Digital Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 31~47
The purpose of this study was to investigate the Digital Paradigm cords depicted on the Digital Clothing by borrowing nearby fields. Therefore, it will offer not only theoretical data but also databases for product development on functional and aesthetic views even though it is not systematically set up the idea vet. The Digital Paradigm cords of Interactivity. Nonlinearity and Combination in the Digital Clothing were determined. This study found that Interactivity Paradigm cord was expressed by the interaction of clothing and computer, the techniques of built in·attach·detach·fragment of the Digital Clothing at the external indicators, and maintained this personalizing that was pursued comprehension and the shape and silhouette of the existed clothing, that Nonlinearity Paradigm cord was able to overcome the limitation of a successively approach, in other words the discontinuous moving possibilities of time and space, that Combination Paradigm cord was contained creative concept without fixed ideas through coordination of Digital Clothing that was combination. continuous creation, changes and process between heterogeneous factors. In conclusion, introduction of the new Digital Paradigm is going to accelerate on lasting development and research.
A Study for Developing the Competitive Swimming Suit Design with Korean Traditional Image (II) - focused on the 5 traditional colors and Taeguk motive -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 49~69
The purpose of the study is to develop the competitive swimming suit design with Korean traditional images. which excels in dimension of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism. To accomplish this study, first. a theoretical examination about Korean image was added, on the basis of the practical research about professional swimmers' preferences as well as the theoretical research about the history of swimming suits and the qualifications of competitive swimming suits in the prior study. Next, practical designing was performed to achieve the creative designs according to Lamb & Kallal's design process. and the superiority of the newly designed swimming suits was evaluated by using Grant's alpha-beta model. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First. in the problem apprehension stage. the need for swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images for professional swimmers was acknowledged, and three major criteria. which are functionality, aesthetics. and symbolism has been verified. Second. in the preliminary brainstorming stage, considerable amounts of data for the design concept considering the criteria above have been gathered. The athletic one-piece for women and the brief for men in style and nylon/lycra in fabric were used in the aspect of functionality. And the S Korean traditional colors in color and Tae-guk motive and others in pattern were selected to apply Korean traditional images in the aspects of aesthetics and symbolism. Finally, the 13 series of creative designs with 4 themes( l17pieces in total) have been suggested. Third, in the design improvement stage. after the preference to each design was surveyed, reformation of the designs was arranged on the basis of the results. Fourth, in the prototyping stage. the 17 actual prototypes, including 13 pieces for women and 4 pieces for men were produced. Fifth. in the evaluation stage. the evaluation procedure using Grant's alpha-beta model was performed. As a result, the newly designed swimming suits were rated above other existing ones in all three aspects of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism.
The Excavated Costume from the Graves of the Tong-Rye Jung Clan in the 17th Century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 71~85
The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.
A Study on Pobeckchuck in the Former Period of Chosun Dynasty(First) - Focusing on the True Record of Chosun Dynasty -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 87~99
The measurement in ruling period of King Sejong in Chosun Dynasty remained unchanged compared with that of Goyeo Dynasty. But Hwangjongchuck, the basis of measurement was amended in the 7th year in ruling period of King Sejong, Juchuck, Youngchochuck, Cholegichuck in the 12th, and Pobeckchuck in the 13th. The record of Pobeckchuck first appeared in the true record of Chosun Dynasty in the 4th year in ruling period of Sejong, and first record on the amendment of the Pobeckchuck was found in the 13th year in his ruling period. The presentation of the comparison of Pobeckchuck with Cholegichuck in volume 128 of true record of Sejong makes help the estimation of the length of Pobeckchuck. To calculate one Chuck of Pobeckchuck with this measurement comes to 44.75cm in present measurement, and the length at this time had remained unchanged to Yeonsangun period. Important fact which was newly found in the true record of Chosun Dynasty was that Pobeckchuck had been used for diverse purposes. Pobeckchuck was used to measure width, length and thickness in manufacturing wardrobe. and also to measure cloth decorating wardrobe. This is the first record(4th year of reign of Sejong) showing that Pobeckchuck was first used to measure cloth in Chosun Dynasty The record shows that Pobeckchuck was also used to measure the length of circumference of castle for its construction. to measure distances between people, the length of hook of wooden handle, and the height of man.
A Study of the Self-Esteem, Degree of Apperance Concern, Clothing Attitude and Make-up
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 101~112
The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship among self-esteem, degree of appearance concern, clothing attitude and make-up to serve as a basis for the development of more differentiated marketing program for clothing and cosmetics industries that takes the delicate psychological characteristics of women into account. The subjects of this study were 936 adult woman from the age of 20 to the age of 40 living in Daegu. The data were analyzed by using MAVOVA, ANOVA, frequency analysis, the analysis of confidence coefficient and the Cronbach's
were also applied. The result of this study were summarized as follows : 1. The group with a high degree of self-esteem was found out to pursue fashion and interest more than the group with a low degree of self-esteem. The group with a low degree of self-esteem was found out to have higher conformity than the group with a high degree of self-esteem. It was found out that the group with a high degree of self-esteem shows a higher degree of make-up than the group with a low degree of self-esteem. 2. The group with a high degree of appearance concern was found out to pursue fashion and interest more than the group with a low degree of appearance concern. It was found out that the group with a low degree of appearance concern shows a higher conformity than the group with a high degree of appearance concern. The group with a high degree of appearance concern shows a higher degree of makeup than the group with a low degree of appearance concern.
A Study of Textiles used for Po(overcoat) in the Excavated Costumes of the Chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 113~129
This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.
A Study of Decorative Pattern Shown in e Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty′s Tomb
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 131~148
Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $
ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.
A Study of the Clothing's Culture in Choseon Period with the Process of the Differentiating into Clothing′s Names : Focused on the Names of Unisex Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 149~162
This study is designed for examining the names of men's and women's clothing of Choseon period, which can be divided into the upper, the lower, and the outer garments based on yu유, go고, po포 from the early period. Furthermore, amongst these various garments, this study shall define some kinds of clothing, which is shared its name and its use by both men and women, as the unisex clothing. Lastly we analyzed the special characteristics of this unisex clothing. With the names of clothing in Choseon period, we could understand about the difference of clothing's development by the names for the upper, lower, and outer garments as gender. And we also found the names for the unisex clothing in that period. The names of unisex clothing in Choseon period can roughly be divided into three garments; the upper, the lower, and the outer. Each category can also be subdivided into tku: i. e. the upper garments into jeogori저고리, hansam한삼, sama 삼아, jeoksam적삼, donguidae동의대, and godo고도; the lower garments into go고, gonja고자, and baji[paji파지, pachi파저］; and the outer garments into jangui장의, baeja배자, and juui주의. Furthermore, we can recognize that the shapes and uses of clothes in that period had been represented differently between the men's and women's.
A Research on Waist lined Coat with Pleats based on the Excavated Costume from the Byun-su(1447-1524)Tomb
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 163~176
Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated from Byun-su(1447-1524) Tomb in Yangpyeong were very similar in size to the costume of Haeina Temple which is the oldest YosunChollik up to now YosunChollik was popularly worn in the Yuan Dynasty of China(원) and it is presumed to be flown into Korea in that period. In China, the coat with a straight collar was called ByeonseonOh , and one with a round collar was called ByeonseonOhja in the Yuan Dynasty. The excavated relics of Haeinsa Temple are almost same as ByeonseonOh. In the Myoung Dynasty(명), the coat with a straight collar was called YoseonOhja, and one with a round collar was called Round collar YoseonOhja . The Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated in the Byunsu Tomb is same as YoseonOhja Attendants who is low in position and doctors used to wear the coat, which was spread to diverse classes by degrees. Later, even emperors and high ranking officials used to wear it as military uniforms. It was made of silk and summer cloth. As mentioned above, 1 examined its history carefully through Chinese documents and photographic materials on relics. In addition, with the authentic records of Korea and the excavated relics of the Byun-su Tomb, 1 analyzed its components. However, the analysis was very restricted because the relics to be compared with were few.
The Excavated Costume from YeoHung Min(1586~1656)'s Grave
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 4, 2003, Pages 177~186
This study is based on the observation of clothes excavated from of YeoHung Min( 1586∼1656)'s grave, which enable to understand of woman's funeral clothes among upper class in mid 17C. Lady Min buried with her husband Jung (Clan of Dong Rae)'s grave where located in KwanAk gu, Seoul was move out another place in 1989. During excavation of the grave, 31 pieces form 5 different type of clothes and total 18 pieces form 8 different from Lady Min (Clan of YeoHung). Remarkable finding from the excavated clothes is the Nuwooli(veil) which is known to be discovered first time in Korea, and a piece of tooth, which is related with funeral custom of those day, and cotton seeds are found from chima(skirt) and Jogori(jacket). Jangot(coat) has been used for the use of over garment assuming the changes of Jogori form during mid of Josun dynasty. It is also remarkable that padded and quilted clothing is still being commonly used until mid-l7C.