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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
A System for Measuring 3D Human Bodies Using the Multiple 2D Images
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 1~12
This paper proposes a system for measuring the 3D human bodies using the multiple 2D images. The system establishes the multiple image input circumstance from the digital camera for image measurement. The algorithm considering perspective projection leads us to estimate the 3D human bodies from the multiple 2D images such as frontal. side and rear views. The results of the image measurement is compared those of the direct measurement and the 3D scanner for the total 40 items (12 heights, 15 widths and 13 depths). Three persons measure the 40 items using the three measurement methods. In comparison of the results obtained among the measurement methods and the persons, the results between the image measurement and the 3D scanner are very similar. However, the errors for the direct measurement are relatively larger than those between the image measurement and the 3D scanner. For example, the maximum errors between the image measurement and the 3D scanner are 0.41cm in height, 0.39cm in width and 0.95cm in depth. The errors are acceptable in body measurement. Performance of the image measurement is superior to the direct. because the algorithm estimates the 3D positions using the perspective projection. In above comparison, the image measurement is expected as a new method for measuring the 3D body, since it has the various advantages of the direct measurement and 3D scanner in performance for measurement as well as in the devices, cost, Portability and man power.
Clothing Design of Korean Image for Cultural Prooducts -using the literary artist´s works-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 13~22
The purposes of this study are to develop a Korean image clothing design for cultural products by using the literary artist´s works and to satisfy the demand of the local self-government and of Gwangju ㆍChonnam area´s small and medium-sized companies. The image of traditional Korean clothing can be expressed with adjectives like Pure, plain, rhythmical, neatness, plentiful, and calm etc. These attributes are similar to the characteristics of the literary artist´s style, which is expressed as suggestive, animated, spatial, possibility of stationary, serene and still. The features of the traditional Korean clothing design can be described as ´The Beauty of Elegance´, ´The Beauty of Plainness´, ´The Beauty of Asymmetric Balance´ and ´The Beauty of rhythm´. It can be expressed in the modern fashion design, which is developed through the combination of the most important feature like ´The Beauty of Space´ in the literary artist´s style. At the time of production we tried to express spatial beauty and plentiful taste of the literary artist's style in the clothing design of Korean image for cultural products by considering the balance between them. Six works of the literary artist were selected which satisfied the purpose of the developed clothing design item. The results were nine clothing designs of Korean image, like a skirt suit made up of a blouse and a skirt, a pants suit made up of pants and a jacket, two evening dresses with a shawl, and also T-shirts and one-pieces etc.
A Study on the Fungi for the Excavated Clothes of the 16C,at Dae-Duk Ku in Dae-jun - Focus on the Excavated Clothes of Kang Jeol´s wife Hansan Lee and Chungjoo Park, and Song Munchang -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 23~31
The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.
Humor Expressed in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 33~48
The purpose of this study was to define the moaning and features of humor in modern fashion. by examining how it's being grafted into fashion, based on artistic expression including collage, assemblage, photo montage, graffiti, transformation, distortion, exaggeration and optical illusion. Beside. humor of fashion is to examine not only laugh and fun but also formative expression and creativity. Furthermore, it is to enlarge the range of conception for future fashion. The findings of this study could be described as below: The features of humorous fashion by collage and assemblage boiled down to unexpectedness, disharmony and creativity. The photo montage was marked by popularity, reproduction and recreativity, and graffiti was characterized by attention, simpleness, and amusement. And there were unexpectedness, creativity and strangeness in transformation, distortion, magnification and optical illusion. The meaning of humorous fashion that carries such features could eventually be summarized into the followings : First, the fashion, from which collage, assemblage, photo montage. graffiti, transformation, distortion, magnification and optical illusion were detected. could be sorted out into several categories that used different things : introduction of objects of different nature, dramatic impression and wit based on photo montage technique, introduction of comic components and infant image, and destruction of aesthetic principles. Second, the substance of humor in art could be applied to fashion design as well as visual art. Humor is a property related to accidental, unexpected incident, behavior, situation or idea, and it puts laugh, disharmony or awkwardness in fashion. Third, spicing fashion with humor could serve to draw people's attention, break down the barrier among people exposed to dry sentiment, and connect the public with art.
A Comparative Study on Street Fashion Trends in Seoul and Milan
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 49~63
Street Fashion plays an important role as an indication of new trends staring point for Young people who are fashion-conscious sensitive to changes in fashion. This study aims at: (1) comparing street fashion trends of young women in Korea and Italy by analyzing the characteristics of young people's fashion in Seoul and Milan between the seasons of Autumn in 2001 to Summer 2002 ; (2) understanding the way young women create ´self-image´ through the clothes they wear on the streets. Finally, 1 expect this study to become a useful source of data for a more detailed analysis of the overall trend of young people's fashion between the East and West.
A Study on the Application of Computers to the Development of Humor Image Fashion Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 65~77
Due to the rapid changes occurring in many aspects of contemporary society, the need for a means to actively combat widespread feelings of emptiness and alienation among the public, while satisfying its visual pleasure, is increasing. Thus the need for humorous elements which bring freedom to the human psyche is urgently requested. Of course, the field of fashion cannot be left out in this trend, and humor image design is a good example of this. Humor image in fashion endeavors to release the tension accumulated in the modern world, while trying to find a way to recover the original pureness of mankind. Another aspect currently important is computers. The creation of images in modern visual art relies a lot upon computers. Traditional visual processes such as painting, photography and video are now merged within digital technology. and are now quite symbiotic to each other. With the development of computers came computer art. which uses all applicable functions of a computer to create art. Any artistic action which uses a computer in any stage of its creation can be called computer art. The common factor in humor and computer art in modern fashion can be classified as follows : repetition, deformation and distortion. exaggeration and abridgement. juxtaposition. and Tromp l'oeil. This study has placed its objective on the fusion of humor image fashion and computer art, by manufacturing a work with humor and computers, two important aspects of modern culture. Expanding the field of fashion design while promoting creativity In fashion by finding a verging point between art and science is also necessary. I have designed and made five costumes using the above cited techniques in computer humor images, on a theoretical basis.
A Study on Women's Underwear Structures by Ideal Beauty - Focused on the late period of 20th century -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 79~95
The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.
A Survey on the Korean Costume(Traditional Hanbok, Saenghwal Hanbok) for Children
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 97~110
This study was done to investigate the wearing experience, the taste and attitudes toward Korean Costume(Traditional and Saenghwal Hanbok). Data were collected by self-administered question from 307 elementary school children and 307 mother during 7, 2002. Conclusions are as follows : 1. Hanbok was worn mainly in the first birthday of children and 6∼7years old. But it was rarely worn in 4th∼6th grade of elementary school. Most of children had worn the Traditional Hanbok, about 30% had worn the Saenghwal Hanbok. 2. Childrens liked Saenghwal Hanbok more than Traditional Hanbok, girls liked Hanbok more than boys did. And 31.4% of boys disliked Hanbok, the main motives for dislike were concerned with the discomfort to move, the feel of cloth and becoming. Boys prefered the style of ´vest/ Jeokori/ Bajii´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´half-sleeve Jeokori/ Baji´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Girls prefered the style of ´Dangeui/ Chima´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´One piece/ Jeokori´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Childrens prefered analogous color scheme to contrasting color scheme. Boys prefered the blue groups, girls prefered the orange and red groups. 3. Childrens had more positive attitudes towards Saenghwal Hanbok than Traditional Hanbok. Mothers had positive attitudes towards both these types. And the attitudes toward Saenghwal Hanbok and Traditional Hanbok of childrens were more positive than mother´s. Therefore the following suggestions may be proposed for the development of Hanbok for children. 1. Hanbok is need to be designed considering activity, feeling and becomingness for teenagers. 2. Hanbok design must be kept seperated Traditional Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok. Traditional Hanbok is need to emphases tradition, Saenghwal Hanbok is need to apply a western style and have a practical use.
A Study on the Changes of Social Meaning of Androgynous Image in Fashion Magazine(II) -Focused Fashion Design Element-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 111~124
The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.
A Study on Plain Weaved Silks at the End of the Joseon Period Shown in Takjijunjeol
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 125~139
The character of Plain Weaved Silks at the end of the Joseon Period from Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) are as follows. 1. Plain Weaved Silks recorded in Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) are Ju(주) 22 types, Cho(초) 13 types and Gyeon(견) 3 types. This is same as previous research where Ju(주) and Cho(초) were subdivided and diversified at the end of Joseon Period, but Gyeon(견) gradually disappeared, leaving only Ju(주) and Cho(초) 2. Plain weaved silks whose character have been examined are Gajiju(개지주), Nujuju(노주주), Nobangju(노방주), Bangsaju(방사주), Simnyangju(십량주), Hapsaju(합사주), Suju(수주), Toju(토주), Sukcho(숙초), Ryeoncho(연초), Gungcho(궁초), Byeol$
goyeongcho(별문고영초), Hujigyeon(후지견), 3. According to the differences in values and value scales written in Takjijunjeol(탁지준절), Ju(주) had various kinds of silks and Ju(주) are classified by qualities into two groups, the higher qualified group A or the lower qualified group B. On the contrary, Cho(초) and Gyeon(견) had only a few kinds, not as many as Ju(주), but all were high quality. Among them the most valuable plain weaved silks were Seoyang$
ju(서양문주), Hapsaju(합사주), Byeol$
goyeongcho(별문고영초). 4. According to Pobaekcheok(포백척) of Takjijunjeol(탁지준절) which shows real sizes, Ju(주) had various length and widths, but Cho(초) had one unified length and width.
A Study on the Functional Development of Army´s Combat Uniforms
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 141~153
The object of this study is to understand the problems of combat uniform garments through a survey regarding current wearing conditions, and furthermore to propose a combat uniform design more well suited to movement and body type. For this study, a survey of soldiers on active service was conducted. Based on the analysis of the survey results, a design that addressed the weak points of the garments currently in use was proposed. Four sets of experimental garments were created and in addition to present combat uniforms used in sensory tests to evaluate appearance and movement. In terms of the results of the evaluation of the appearance and movement evaluation. the test garments were generally received more favorably than the uniforms in current use.
A Model of Criteria for Classifying Fashion Brands - from the viewpoint of fashion business practice -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 5, 2003, Pages 155~169
The purpose of this study was to find out criteria for classifying fashion brand from the viewpoint of fashion business practice in order to develop strategy of fashion brands and to manage brand effectively and systematically, and to suggest theoretical frame for application of these criteria. Survey was implemented for this research. 388 Data from the people who works for merchandising, sales or design in fashion business company was analyzed. Questionnaires were developed based on 37 fashion brand classification criteria. SPSS package and LISREL program were used to analyze data. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, $
tiple response analysis, correlation analysis, and structure equation model analysis were applied. The results of this study were as follows First, factor analysis considering 37 classification criteria identified 7 factors as classification criteria which can be used effectively by fashion business company. Second, in two cases, based on the job description and the responsible items, analysis showed that importance of the 7 classification criteria factors was different. And all of 7 criteria were correlated to each other. Third, the effective method to classify fashion brands was proposed by establishing the model of the relationship among the values of 7 criteria and by proving it by the structure equation model analysis. And the two types of the courses to classify fashion brand were shown. Forth, according to the evaluation of these criteria in the importance of appropriateness and difficulty of implementing, classification criteria factor of "the level of product concept" was found to be very effective and "the level of brand value" was ineffective to apply.