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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Dancer and Musician Costumes by the Murals in Tombs of Liao Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 1~10
The results from the consideration of this are as follows. A Study on the Dancer and Musician Costumes by the Murals in Tombs decorate with mural, which is of Liao Dynasty. The tombs belong to two families: eight of them located to the northeast of Xiabali Village belong to the Zhang Family. Another was located to the north of Xiabali Village belong to the Han Family. The bands of the "Sanyue" consist of five to twelve players wearing luxurious dresses(Jamhwasik hwagakBokdu, Danryung, Belt, Boots) and playing miscellaneous musical instruments: sometimes the female ones in the bands are disguised as male. Usually, each band is accompanied with one or a couple of dancers. which one wearing is luxurious dresses (Goge.1amhwasik. Yoo : Jaket : joegori, Sang: skirts: chima, and shoes).
A Study on Japanese Clothing as Japonism Expressed in the Impressionistic Painting Works of the 19th Century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 11~23
Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.
Type and Characteristics of Jikryung of the Chosun Era
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 25~43
This study is to classify the types of Jikryung and to look into formative . periodic Characteristics. Results of analyzing can be described as follows. 1. Jikryung in the Chosun Era was classified according to whether it had a side hem. Jikryung which had side hem was reclassified according to the position of the side hem into inside, inside and outside and outside fold types and backward leaning type. Jikryung with no side hem was reclassified into types of closed and opened sides. 2. Concerning formative Characteristics, the type of inside fold was coexisted with the types of short front and long rear, the same front and rear, and narrow sleeves, bean chaff typed sleeves. Inside and outside fold type was used the type of short front and long rear, narrow sleeves. Outside fold type was used the type of same front and rear, bean chaff typed sleeves. Backward leaning type was used the same front and rear, wide sleeves. The types of closed and opened sides transformed from double Sup to single Sup and from narrow sleeves to bean chaff in its form and wide sleeves. 3. Concerning periodic Characteristics, the 1st period of Jikryung with side hem showed up the type of inside and outside fold, the 2nd period did the type of outside fold, The 3rd period did the type of backward leaning. Regarding Jikryung with no side hem, its 1st and 3rd periods saw the type of closed side, while its 2nd period coexisted with the types of closed and opened sides.
A Study on the Costume through the Item Exchange of Parhae's Envoys for Ancient Japan -focused on the historical records of Japan
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 45~61
Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.
A Research on the Construction of TUTU on the Korean Market
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 63~74
The first objective of this study is to investigate and analyze the construction of TUTU and secondly, to propose a systematic research background on a sewing method of TUTU. The final objective is to provide the exquisiteness and the comfort for customer when wearing a stage costume. The research method to investigate the TUTU construction in detail is by renting or buying three major TUTU brands, which are selling in Korea. The results of this study can be summarized into four categories. Firstly, the Bustier composes into 8 to10 patches, and the external material or accessory differs by the work of art and its characteristics. Moreover, the cotton is used for the inner material. which depends on dancer's vital activities. Secondly, a skirt layer ranges from 6 to 12 layers with laces. In addition, the gather or the pleats is used to form a crease. Thirdly, lace or cotton is the material used for culottes because it is stretchy and lightweight. For the waist part. a rubber band is used since its wearability plus functionality. Lastly, an adjusting part for a stage costume varied for each dressers physical feature and can be corrected with inner hems together a hook, a thread loop or a zip. In conclusion, the results of this study can provide the quality improvement for TUTU and furthermore can propose a framework for an understanding and a practical use of TUTU construction.
Cosmetics Purchasing Behavior According to Lifestyle Types of Discount Store Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 75~86
The purpose of the study is to identify consumers' use of information source, store image, and demographic characteristics by their lifestyle types. and to establish a strategy for marketing and customer satisfaction management in order to response actively to the change of consumer behavior and to survive in this boundless competition. Out of the adult females who visited any discount store from October 3 to October 13. 2001. 300 women who would understand the purpose of the survey and respond it. were given with the questionnaire. Finally, 245 questionnaires were returned and analyzed. The data were processed in factor analysis. group analysis. deviation analysis. Duncan. and cross analysis. with SPSS WIN 10.0. The results are as follows: 1. Life style were categorized into 4 groups: social service pursuing group, fashion change pursuing group. convenience pursuing group, cultural life pursuing group. 2. There were some differences in discount store consumers's use of information source about the cosmetics according to lifestyle types. 3. There were some differences in discount store consumers's store image about the cosmetics according to lifestyle types. 4. There were some differences in discount store consumers's demographic characteristics about the cosmetics according to lifestyle types.
A Study on the Purchase Behavior and Evaluative Criteria of Fashion Merchandise of Chinese Women Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 87~99
The purpose of this study was to investigate the purchase behavior of fashion merchandise and purchase evaluative criteria in regard to apparel type of Chinese women consumers, and to provide effective basic data for push into the Chinese market. The subject used for the study were 20-40 aged women living in china. 848 data were analyzed factor analysis, one-way ANOVA. t-test and correlation with SPSS package. The results of this study were as follows. 1. As the purchase behavior of fashion merchandise of Chinese women consumers were found out four groups of factors that were named "pursuit mass media", "pursuit fashion", "pursuit brand", and "pursuit price". 2. Chinese women consumers bought fashion merchandise with evaluating three groups of factors that were "for functional", "for aesthetic" and "for external". 3. The purchase behavior of fashion merchandise of Chinese women consumers was correlated with purchase evaluative criteria.nese women consumers was correlated with purchase evaluative criteria.
Aesthetic Characteristics of Women's Classic Tailored Suits in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 101~115
The purpose of this study is to define women's classic tailored suits surviving, despite current millennial impulses tend toward disintegration in style. Through documentary study, the reason which women had chosen the mannish tailored suits instead of sumptuous dresses in the 20th century beginnings is considered carefully. Also, examining the process of transition of women's classic suits makes it possible to infer the aesthetic characteristics of them. According to study, women had began to wear tailored suits acquiring physical comfort and the equality of the sexes. In the early stage, women imitated men's tailored suits in order to show seriousness, intelligent, capability for social success. However, in accordance with the advance of women's social position women modified it to suits themselves to present intrinsic feminity as well as masculine values. By staying the basic form, classic tailored suits have undergone constant internal changes in relation to sexuality. The aesthetic properties of women's classic tailored suits can be inferred as moderation, dualism, and versatility. In conclusion, the credibility with own authority and the evolutionary character inhering in the classic tailored suits could explain the continuity of them.
Lower Body Somatotype Classification and Discrimination of Elderly Women According to Index
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 117~130
The purpose of this study is to provide the basic data on the development of ready-to-wear clothing for the elderly women as the population of the elderly has been constantly increasing as well as the purchasing power of the aged. The body measurements of 318 elderly women were taken. whose ages were over 60 years and enrolled in colleges for the elderly. sports centers. or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 39 features in the lower body were used for the anthropometric measurement and analysis. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Indices of height and weight were used for factor analysis. cluster analysis, and discriminant analysis in order to 'classify lower body somatotype according to shape, excluding size factors. From the results of the factor analysis. the 5 factors showed the cumulative sum of square at 75.63%. 2. Somatotype were classified into two types according to a cluster analysis using height and weight dices. Type 1 is the group is relatively tall and has somewhat fat lower limbs. Type 2 is considered fat and has obesity factors around waist and abdomen area. The hit rate for the classified two groups showed the result at 95.9%.
A Survey on Suit Design by Image Visual Effect Demographic Characteristics
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 131~143
This treatise deals with the profitable suit image design of middle-aged men by examining visual effects in physical design. The sample of this study is people who lives in Kwangju, the Republic of Korea and 20-50 age's men and women. And it is very variety in each population statistics factors the differences of associate design visual effect which considering the difference of sex and age group, numbers of button, a figure and material pattern. Firstly, look into the associate design visual effect by sex and button number. In men's group, the style with three buttons was the most attractive and that with two buttons was the least attractive. In 50's group, the style with two buttons was the least attractive and those with 1.3 and 4 buttons were a little attractive. Secondly, in the difference of associate design with sex and shape, men's group was considered that standard type was the most attractive shape, women's group was thought that lean and standard types were the most attractive shape. So we can know that the attractive shape is different with sex. In the difference of association design with age and shape, 20's considered that standard type was the most modernistic and fat type was the least modernistic. 30's considered that lean type was the most modernistic and 50's thought that fat type and standard type were the most modernistic. Thirdly, see the sex and material pattern. In familarity, men's group considered that stripe pattern was more familiar than checks and plain patterns. And they considered that striped pattern and plain was more manly than checks. In sex and material pattern, 20's thought that plain was the most attractive, stripe was the next, and checks was not attractive. 40's estimated that plain and stripe were more attractive than checks. 50's judged that stripe was the most attractive material. Thus. the attraction is different with ages and material patterns.
Classification of Body Types for sizes of Ready-to-Wear-focusing on Korean female aged from 18 to 24
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 145~159
The purpose of this study was to classify body type for ready-to-wear sizes. The subjects were 300 women ages of 18-24. they were measured direct anthropometry. The body types for sizing system were divided by Rohrer Index. KS drop value and ISO drop value. The results of this study were as follows. 1. By adapting the Rohrer Index. we classify 3 types from anthropometric measurements. The thin type covered 39.3%, the standard type 51.0% and the obesity type 18.7%. The characteristics of clusters were as follows. Thin type was characterized by tall. slender type and slim. The standard type was characterized by middle sized. The obesity type was characterized by short. fat type. and large bust. 2. By adapting the KS system drop value. we classify 3 types from anthropometric measurements. The H type(drop 0) covered 25.6%. the N type(drop 6) 65.2% and the A type(drop 12) 9.2%. Type H was slightly tall large bust. and curved from waist to hip. Type A was slightly thin. large hip and smaller bust than type N. Principal factor components were bust size. The height could be divided into three groups. The Petite(l50cm) covered 5.5%. the Regular(l60cm) 64.7% and the Tall(l70cm) 29.8%. Through the crosstab of height and body type. we extracted regular height by N type 46.2% the largest cell. The body type was the higher order of N type. H type and A type. The tall was the higher order of Regular. Tall and Petite. 3. By adapting the ISO system drop value. we classify 3 types from anthropometric measurements. The H type(drop 0) covered 15.0%. the M type(drop 6) 41.0% and the A type(drop 12) 44.0%. Type H was slightly short. slightly fat and large bust. Type A was slightly tall. slight thin than type M. The height could be divided into three groups. We adjust the height section after allow for height distribution. The Short(152cm) covered 12.8%. the Regular(160cm) 66.9% and the Long(168cm) 20.3%. Through the crosstab of height and body type, we extracted regular height by M type 29.3% the largest cell. The body type was the higher order of M type, A type and H type. The tall was the higher order of Regular, Long and short.
The Study on the Characteristics of Design through Issey Miyake's Fashion Philosophy
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 6, 2003, Pages 161~173
The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.