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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
Dance Costumes Design for "Adieu 1999" - Focused on the Techno-Cyber Fashion -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 1~7
The purpose of this study contains evaluation of techno-cyber fashion, specifically in the area of dancing costume which symbolize the stage performing art of techno-cyber fashion's formative elements. The way of study is to make foundation with the theory and picture backgrounds to analyze the fashion trends and finally produce symbolic dance costume which applies modern dance stage costume design to techno-cyber elements. The 'Adieu 1999' is the modern dance work contains social mood in retrospect of 20 century and prepare 21 century. To make design of dance costume, apply the simple geometrical pattern design which utilize techno-cyber element like hi-tech fabrics, see-through and image of band and finally produce costume both 20 and 21 century.
A Study on the Development of Vest Design Using Retro Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 9~27
The purpose of this research is for confirming that fashion study has to do with industry through the developing of fashion goods which is related to a trend as a cultural code. Recently fashion design trend is focused on 'retro', 'Retro' is the one of the important trends in this century not only fashion but also cultural industry, Therefore, in this research, the processing about development of decorative vest design as fashion goods was showed by using retro image. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Confirming the meaning of 'retro fashion'. 2. Studying about the flow of retro fashion from 1960s to 1990s. 3, Finding the characteristics of retro fashion design and the image through abroad and domestic collections from 2000 to 2003. 4. Designing and making vest using new concept from the leading images. Through this processed, it was find that retro fashion design had three images : vintage image, ethnic image and romantic image. Then three vests were made by a concept 'a piece of handicraft' using handcraft technique such as beading, patch-work, fringing, scratching, stitching, mixing which were used in retro fashion design characteristics.
Perceived Risk, Satisfaction, and Intention on Rental Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 29~36
The purposes of this syudy were to identify the factors of perceived risk, satisfaction, and intention on rental clothing. The subjects were 767 adults residing in Jeonbuk province. The research was made from February 20 to March 19, 2003. Fof data analysis. frequencies, percentages, mean, and standard deviations were calculated. Also, factor analysis and stepwise multiple-regression analysis were done. The results were as follows: 1. Approximately half of the respondents had experiences of rental clothing, and the most frequent items were wedding dress, degree gown, performance dress, and sports wear in descending order. 2. The factors of perceived risk of rental clothing were divided into lost, appropriateness, and damage, and total variance was 62.51%. The perceived risk about damage of rental clothing was the highest, and lost was the lowest. 3. The factors of rental clothing satisfaction were divided into appearances, store status, function, and fitness, and total variance was 59.96%. The satisfaction of function of rental clothing was the highest, and the store status was the lowest. 4. The intention on rental clothing was high in case of higher interest in rental clothing, higher educational level. more experiences in rental clothing, lower perceived risk of damage on the rental clothing, and younger person, and these variables explained 54.00% of the intention on rental clothing.
Costume Culture in View of the Trading Goods Between Chosun and Japan in the Early Chosun Dynasty -Focused on the Exporting Goods of Chosun-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 37~45
This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.
A Study on Wearing Conditions and Dissatisfaction with Breast Cap for Current Womens Swimsuits
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 47~55
The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve the comfort and fit of womens swimsuits through analysis of the present wearing conditions and users complaints. In order to compile the information about dissatisfaction with the appropriateness of the fit of breast cap for swimsuits, a questionnaire was administered to 364 females (over 20 years old under 60 years old). The contents of the questionnaire consisted of questions such as the reasons for selecting to wear breast cap for swimsuits or not, size of brassiere and swimsuits, dissatisfaction with material, dissatisfaction with function of breast cap. The collected data were analyzed using the descriptive statistics value of frequencies and percentile value, mean, and so on by means of the SPSS WIN.10.0 program. The differences among age groups, body type groups by rohrer index, cup size and so on were compared using the chi-square test. Results of the survey responses about swimsuits breast caps: Most women have worn swimsuits with caps. According to the results, women who are older or overweight, or have larger breasts, or breasts which sag, as well as those who have had the experience of giving birth responded that they feel uncomfortable because of the slope of their breasts. Concerning complaints about the caps, 61% of respondents complained about the cap size and lack of correspondence with breast size, 56.8% expressed concern about the cap gap. There is significant difference in wearing reason of breast caps forswimsuits among age groups and many kinds of groups.
The Modern Perspective in Fashion Illustration
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 57~68
The purpose of this study is to develop a creative perspective technique in fashion illustration through analyzing perspective in visual art experienced a great variety. This study was analyzed by examining the general theories based on the discovery of perspective and investigating the modern perspective in fashion illustration related to the method of spatial expression in visual art. A complex perspective of existing perspective gives the effect of reapperance of actual space and three-dimentional form in a plane. Because of being used as not only one perspective technique but also some perspectives technique, its expression can be more realistic. An amplified perspective gives the effect of visual illusion just like being suck in space inside and come out from screen outside by distorting the human body. A confused perspective of space gives the visual illusional effect of collapsing actual space and misunderstanding three-dimensional form by distorting the form of the space and changing the nature as an object of fashion. A reiterated or duplicated perspective gives effect of interpreting invisible space as imaginary space by overlapping and eliminating the object of fashion. An irrational perspective of spatial illusion gives the effect of disorganization experienced thinking by strange shapes and new recognition of irrational space by extraordinary visual connection. It has a tendency to surrealism. In conclusion, the modern perspective in fashion illustration has made the best use of not only new perspective since 1980, but general perspective before 1980. By the modern perspective expression. the viewer has made a chance to experience imaginary spaces indirectly, and the author has been able to express emotions by his or her new attempt in the screen.
A Study on the Traditional Wedding Clothes around Gwangju and Jeonnam Area
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 69~81
This study firstly identify the characteristics of the clothes for traditional wedding ceremony from the late Chosun Dynasty (19th Century) and today through comparison. It also tries to discover what today's people are incorrectly aware of regarding the traditional wedding clothes particularly by survey. It ultimately aims to present constructive ways of solution against the illadvised and simplified deformation of the traditional wedding clothes. When comparing the traditional wedding clothes from the late Chosun and its modern counterparts, Dan-ryung and Samo-kwandae is still used for bridegroom's dress. In case of bride's dress, several items such as Yeom-eui, So-eui and Hwal-ot have been disappeared while Won-sam can be seen today. There were found many additional differences not only in type of the wedding clothes, but also in its form and constitution. Therefore, it is advisory to take the wedding clothes worn by commoners and upper class as the basic form for today's traditional wedding clothes. In addition, diversified research should be carried on to make them broadly accepted by today's life.
Clothing Consumption Value and Consumer Satisfaction of Buyers at Department Store and Market
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 83~94
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the clothing consumption value and consumer satisfaction which were based on the purchase places such as department store and market, and to examine the influence of the clothing consumption value and demographic variables on the consumer satisfaction. The subjects were 364 females ranging in ages from twenties to fifties who dwelt in Seoul and in the suburbs of Seoul. Four factors of clothing consumption value derived by factor analysis: 'functional value', 'emotional value', 'epistemic value', and 'conditional value'. The clothing consumption value and satisfaction of shopping system, purchase system, and consumption system of buyers at department store showed higher than that of buyers at market. Emotional value was most important in predicting the consumer satisfaction of buyers at department store, followed by epistemic value (-) and conditional value. Conditional value was most important in predicting the satisfaction of buyers at market, followed by emotional value and the academic background of buyers. Generally the higher the emotional and conditional value, the higher the consumer satisfaction. and the consumer satisfaction was influenced by epistemic value negatively.
The Genealogy of Trousers in the Eurasian Region
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 95~109
The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.
A Study on the Girlish Fashion as a Romanticism of the 21st Century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 111~123
The purpose of this study was to investigate girlish fashion as a contemporary as well as Romanticism of the 21st century. The background of girlish fashion is regarded as a hot blast of restoration and a appearance of kidults, such characteristics of these factors, that is, the moderns's longing for the memory of old days and kidult's concerns for the dream of their childhood, have a direct influence on the Romanticism. So the plasticity of girlish fashion was analyzed as a results: 1) This plasticity named Recurrent Romanticism as 21st New Look, especially the plasticity represented in a princess style fashion. The princess style fashion of girlish fashion means not only a expression of the moderns's self-confidence but also nostalgia toward old days. 2) Sweet Romanticism developed into angel style fashion, which the style expressed the moderate cuteness with clothing construction and detail etc and the innocence with white color. 3) The plasticity of girlish fashion called a feast of color named Fantastic Romanticism. Fantastic Romanticism of girlish fashion means not only a expression of a lovely girlie's image but also hope toward 21st century. Throughout the study, Romanticism as a cultural code of 21st century was considered to reflected in the whole livelihood as well as contemporary fashion, especially, girlish fashion.
A Study on Post-modern Fashion Image Expressed in the "Matrix2-Reloaded" Costume
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 125~137
This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie
, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.
Analysis of the Optimized Sewing Speed for the Sewing Operation Standardization in the Garment Manufactures
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 7, 2003, Pages 139~146
This study was aimed at analyzing a characteristics of the sewing machines and analyzing the effective sewing time in the garment manufacture process, therefore to obtain the basic data concerned with the sewing. operation standardization. The two methods were experimented. First, two garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected for the analyzing the sewing speed of the sewing operator for the optimized sewing speed using the equipment of Digital Tachometer HT4100. Second, five garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected to analyze the required time data to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine which was used in the sewing factories. The results are divided into 3 categories as follows; 1) Survey results for the optimized sewing speed : The sewing operations of 10~20 cm range were most frequently selected in seam constructions in Korean sewing factories, and the sewing speed of 2,500 R.P.M was most used; 2) Required time to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine : The mean of required time to the fixed sewing speed of 2.500 R.P.M was 3.5 second, and the mean of the real-sewing length during the 3.5 second was 43.8 cm ; 3) Analysis of the optimized sewing speed calculated using these results : The optimized sewing speed for the sewing manufacturers of the upward of 43.8 cm was 2,500 R.P.M. and for the sewing manufacturers of the below of 42.2 cm, the optimized sewing speed was 2.450 R.P.M.