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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 53, Issue 8 - Dec 2003
Volume 53, Issue 7 - Nov 2003
Volume 53, Issue 6 - Sep 2003
Volume 53, Issue 5 - Aug 2003
Volume 53, Issue 4 - Jul 2003
Volume 53, Issue 3 - May 2003
Volume 53, Issue 2 - Mar 2003
Volume 53, Issue 1 - Jan 2003
Selecting the target year
A Comparative Study on the Raglan-Sleeve Patterns According to the Construction Factors(II)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 1~10
The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.
A Comparative Study on the Materialism and Clothing Attitudes of Korean and Chinese University Students
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 11~20
The purpose of this study was to compare the Korean and Chinese university students' materialism and clothing attitudes. Self-administered questionnaires developed by researcher were used and the research periods were from Feb. 20 to Mar. 19, 2003. 429 Korean and 405 Chinese students's data was used for analysis. Cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, t-test, and discriminant analysis were done. Korean students pursuited happiness more than utility and accomplishment, but Chinese students pursuited accomplishment more than happiness and practicality. The students were divided into the happiness pursuit, the utility pursuit, and the accomplishment pursuit. The group size of the utility pursuit and the happiness pursuit among Korean students and the utility pursuit and the accomplishment pursuit among Chinese students were larger. Korean students preferred fashionability, psychological dependence, sexual attraction of clothing more, but Chinese preferred conformity more. Utility and accomplishment of materialism, and fashionability and conformity of clothing were strong variables which discriminated Korean students from Chinese students, and total discriminating power was 77.1%.
A Study of the Devil′s Types and the Special Effect Makeup′s Techniques Expressed on Horror Movies
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 21~37
The purpose of this paper is to be studied the Devil's types and the special effect makeup's techniques expressed on horror movies. As the theoretical background, the researcher inquired the origin of Satan, Demon and Devil, and the shapes and meanings portrayed in the religion, philosophy art and literature. Also classified the Devil's types of the movies, and examined the factors, techniques and aesthetic characteristics of special effect makeup for each of them. The results are as follows. 1. The Devil's types are the Werewolf, the Zombie and the Vampire. The Werewolf is a kind of Devil that changes into a wolf when the full moon rises. It requires animatronics, rubber body suits, furs and fangs for special makeup effects. The Zombie is a dead body that the exorcist restored with a narcotic drug, and it nibbles on human's brain and flesh. So it needs decayed or pale skins, scars, bald heads, non-focus eyes and false teeth for making this character. The Vampire is a bloodsucking ghost. Therefore, it uses fangs, evil eyes, rubber body suits and dropping blood for special effect makeup. 2. They expresses Sadism, Masquerade and Cruelty as the aesthetic characteristics of the Devil's special effect makeup.
TheTypes and Formative Characteristics of Seon Represented of Costume in the chosun Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 39~52
This study was classified according to types added ‘Seon(선)’ to the dress of Chosun Dynasty and analyzed them into formative characteristics. the results were as follows ; 1, ‘Seon’ is divided into three types of the standard, the decoration and the application. According to three types, the types of the standard are subdivided into Jemul Seon(the shape put the right side into lining) and the different color Seon. The types of the decoration are subdivided into Stitch, Surround, Gild and Embroidery form. And the types of the application are subdivided into Piping, Fur, Braid and Metallic form. 2, It showed as the different color Seon and Jemul Seon in the case of men dress and as the different color Seon and Gild form in that of women dress. 3, Its application showed in the ceremonial dress and ‘Po(袍)’ types of men dress and in the ceremonial dress and as accessories of women dress. 4, It was used as complementary color tone in both men and women dress. 5, It was used as its surface in men dress and as its reverse side in women dress according to Seon of style. 6, It was used as ‘Sa(紗)’ in men dress and as ‘Dan(緞)’ in women dress according to Seon of texture. 7, Seon of an aesthetic characteristics was distinguished according to Seon of forms, that is to say, Jemul Seon standed for calm beauty, Two color Seon standed for dynamic beauty, Stitch, Surround and Piping form standed for delicate beauty, Gild and Embroidery form standed for brilliant beauty and Fur, Braid and Metallic form standed for solid beauty.
An Analysis of Change in Consumption Values on Advertisements for Man′s Cosmetics
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 53~63
Under the social conditions that an understanding of a men change socially and men's interests in their appearances are on the increase, this research intends to study and analyze the changes of people's sensibility of values on ads for men's cosmetics, which is said to be performed the social, cultural function reflecting the social consciousness, the value and the idea creating a new one. The documents for the research was sindonga. The documents were analyzed quantitatively in regard of contents of a linguistic expression and a visual expression showing on advertisements for man's cosmetics, a time series analysis. As a result of analyzing the consumption value through headline of an ad, the emotional value took the highest percentage extending whole periods. Beside emotional value, a time series analysis showed that social values appeared to the major themes in the 1970s, and functional values was important themes in 1980s, and the social values and functional values appeared equally during 1990-2002.
A Study on Female′s Ideal Beauty Based on Magazine Articles - Focusing on the 80′s and the 90′s -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 65~80
The purpose of this study was to examine and fully understand the transformation of female's ideal beauty through time based on word analysis. Word selection was made from the very exemplary Women's magazines : Yuhwon, Jubu-Saengwhal, and Yuhsung-Dongah. Further, in order to research the understanding of female's ideal beauty, a random research was done on 445 women, ranging from the ages 20's through 60's. From the result, a frequency analysis was performed to further analyze the meaning of ideal beauty to each sector of the age groups for different time periods : the 1980's and the 1990's. To the 20's, beauty awareness was defined by the word ‘intelligence’, however, the 1980's endorsed confidence with composure and calmness where as the 1990's preferred beauty to be defined by ‘refinement and goal oriented’. The 30's selected ‘individuality’ marked with confidence in character, but there was a shift from ‘mature intelligence’ in the 1980's to ‘professionalism’ in the 1990's. The 40'E chose mediocrity and commonness, however, likewise, a sense of ‘earnestness’ for life and family was looked upon as beautiful. For the 50's, comfort with a reserved tenure was frequently noted and for the 60's, women chose ‘health and independence’ as describing ideal beauty. The results from the research are justifiable because the articles are in a neutral perspective and are from the representative women's magazines. This research proved that the younger the age group, the more exterior beauty was considered, as opposed to the older generation who found inner beauty to be of most importance.
A Study on Eastern and Western Colors Focusing the Five Colors in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 81~89
This study is to consider both the eastern and western concepts of colors focusing on the five colors(Blue, Red, Yellow, White, Black) derived from the principles of Yang and the Five Elements, which are the traditional philosophy of the East and to analyze the modern fashion on the basis of the theoretical background. This study is summarized in the following. The eastern color concept has been formed by the influence of the principles of Yin and Yang and the Five Elements, which explain the generation and extinction of the universe. When it comes to the five colors, the symbolism of the east and west has much in common relatively. Concerning the rule of the five colors match, both the rules of the east and west are highly similar with each other. As mentioned above, the study shows that the five colors concepts and match rules between the east and west have much in common. There is a high possibility to connect the compatibility and incompatibility of the eastern five colors with scientific western theory of color harmony.
Nomadic Thoughts and Transformable Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 91~104
This study describes not only meaning of transformable, i.e., new paradigm being expanded since the 1990's, but also nomadic thoughts being formation background of transformable. In this study, the concept of ‘transformable’ has dictionary definition and theoretical background expressing art, architecture and products, etc. The author has examined relations between nomadic thoughts and ‘transformable clothing’ by investigating the works of transformable clothing designers including Lucy Orta. The ‘transformable clothing’ means ‘clothing being transformable to meet some purposes’. Considering nomadic thoughts, 1.e., one of formation of transformable, the transformable clothing with nomadic thoughts can be transformed in various ways by usefulness and removal. The clothing has features of removal, escape and protection and has the values that can adapt itself to social circumstance and environment through the module system of separation, taking to pieces and assembling, etc. to suggest resonable clothing. Such a clothing cannot be settled down so that it shall be developed to let modern people move continuously as the 21th century nomad between real world and virtual world. However, this study did not examine internal meaning sufficiently because of main investigation objects of external expression, and was limited to nomadic thought at formation background. To improve such things, another study will be made in the future.
A Study on Recognition of Magazine Advertisements Due to Interaction Effects of Between Usage of Fashion Illustrations and Photographs
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 105~120
Despite the creative strengths fashion illustrations, most fashion related advertisements use photographs instead. Furthermore, there is not much study done on the effects of fashion illustrations. Through this study the authors discover the effectiveness of fashion related magazine advertisements using fashion illustrations by looking into the level of recognition due to interaction effects between advertisements using photographs and advertisements using fashion illustrations. This study, however, does not focus on comparing the different levels of recognition effect between photographs and fashion illustrations. After a literature review of magazines with high rank subscriptions, an experiments was conducted. A booklet was made using 16 fashion illustration advertisements and 16 photograph advertisements all designed to control variables other than advertisement type. Then a survey was taken using the booklet to measure the recognition levels of the different types of advertisements. Through an ANOVA test of the 2
3 factorial designed model the authors derived results implying that interaction effects do exist between the different types of advertisements. In the environment where advertisements using photographs dominate, advertisements using fashion illustrations can effectively be recognised by the consumers. Through this study, the authors wish to give guidance to decision makers in the fashion industry related to the type of printed advertisement they should seek.
A Study on Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the End of the Joseon Period
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 121~135
The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).
A Study on the Ethnic Style Designs which is Expressed in 21th Century Fashion - Focused on the Fashion Design Applying the Mongol Noin-ula′s Textile Pattern-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 137~148
The culture interest regarding the new area causes an effect even in change of fashion and that result Mongol area where it is area other than Japan, China and India and it is having compromised beauty raised it's head. Mongol is in Noin-ula area which is a it's former self of the Hun's. There is to a textile pattern which was used not only the textile pattern which has the feature of Scythian system but also the textile pattern which has the feature of China was used. The feature of Noin-ula's the textile pattern is as follows. Noin-ula's textiles used Scythian system of animal pattern, vine pattern, palmette pattern, thunder pattern, spiral pattern, shape of diamond pattern. Scythian system of animal pattern and vine pattern proves the interchange with the countries to the west of China. Noin-ula's textile pattern is applied to the designer's work of art. The designers are John Galliano, Etro, Chloe, Emmanuel Ungaro and so on, who express the modern ethnic style design. Because the more developed the modern society is the more embossed feature of intention for the race and the fork art, I think that Ethnic style design is applied to modern sensitive and ethnic style in the future.
A Study on the Use of Display and Perceived Risk according to High School Girls′ Attitudes Toward Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 53, issue 8, 2003, Pages 149~158
The purpose of the present study was to investigate the use level of display and perceived risk of high school girls according to their attitudes toward fashion. Data were collected through self-administered questionnaires and analyzed by descriptive statistics,
, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The sample consisted of 390 students at four girls' high schools located in Seoul. The results are as follows : 1. Based on the attitudes toward fashion, respondents were classified into 3 groups, fashion-oriented, fashion-conformed, fashion-retarded. No differences were found in fashion attitudes among and between the groups by residing place. The group having higher interest in fashion spent more expenditure for apparels, and showed the higher interest in display, and highly regarded the needs of display. 2. The more fashion-oriented group showed higher degree of risk perceiving. Especially, they perceived psychological risk, fashionability risk, and social risk highly. And all the three groups perceived opportunity risk most. 3. In general, those who are more sensitive to fashion showed more positive attitude of risk reduction activities.