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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
Physical Property Change of Old Fabrics Depending on Cleaning Method
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 1~10
The purpose of this study was to compare the efficiency of four different cleaning method of silk and to fabrics, which were excavated from the sixteenth century tombs. The four cleaning methods were hand washing in water and hand washing in solvent, washing in ultrasonic cleaner, and using of ultrasonic gun after washing in ultrasonic cleaner. The following is the result of the experiment: ㆍBoth silk and jute fabrics shrank the most after hand-wash in water. This cleaning method decreased their thickness the most but changed their strength the least. However, the color of the fabric changed the most after had-wash in water. This washing method might discolor the dyed fabric, so one must check the condition of the fabric thoroughly before washing it. ㆍThe weight and the thickness of the fabric changed little after ultrasonic cleaning. This cleaning method, therefore. is less efficient than hand-water-wash. The use of ultrasonic gun after ultrasonic wash for partial cleansing enhanced the efficiency a little. Nevertheless, this method left stain around the area where the gun was used, and the injected water could damage the fabric. ㆍThe excavated fabric became softer in the cleaning process as the dirt was washed away. In both cases of silk and jute fabrics cleaning, solvent made the fabric softer than water. Washed in solvent, the fabric did not swell. But water penetrated to the fiber during the cleaning process and made the fabric swell. When the water evaporates, the swollen fiber structure collapses and the fabric become stiff. Ultrasonic wash did not cause much change in the flexibility of the fabric, for this method does not remove the dirt as effectively as the other method.
A Survey on the Patterns for Traditional-Modern Work in Korean Traditional Costume -Focus on Women Dress Since in the Middle 1990s-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 11~21
This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.
The Study on Knitting Techniques in Joseon Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 23~36
The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.
A Study of Middle Aged Men′s Body Shapes - Analysis of direct Anthropometric Measurement -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 37~51
The purpose of this study is to measure middle-aged men's bodies around the ages of thirty-five through fifty-five, whose age-group undergoes drastic changes on their body shapes, and to reveal their physical characteristics by comparing the measurements. Sixty Body measurements were taken on 168 subjects. Statistics analysis of data used Oneway Anova, Correlation, Fator Analysis, Cluster Analysis, Crosstabs. Body shapes are grouped based on the measurements, and TypeI is characterized by small and middle-sized body shapes. Tall and obese body shapes belong to TypeII. Lastly, TypeIII is characterized by body shapes with very tall height and obesity, especially around the abdomen area
The Influence of Lifestyle and Importance of Store Attribute upon Fashion Store Selection of Adolescence Consumers
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 53~68
The purposes of this study were to classify the contents of lifestyle of adolescence consumers, to examine the differences of lifestyle, importance of store attribute, preference of fashion store according to demographic variables, to test preference of fashion store and lifestyle, preference of fashion store, and to examine how the preference of fashion store was influenced by lifestyle, importance of store attribute, and demographic variables. Subjects were 317 adolescence consumers(13-24 years) in Seoul, Korea. Preference of imported & brand goods, orientation of fashion & beauty life, and family orientation had a direct effect on preference of department store(
=.129). Sex had an indirect effect on preference of department store through orientation of fashion & beauty life. Search of video media & information and age(-) had a direct effect on preference of entertainment shopping center(
=.150). Orientation of fashion & beauty life(-), sales promotion, sex, and reasonable consumption had a direct effect on preference of discount store(R =
.109). Sex(-) had an indirect discount store through orientation of fashion & beauty life, and sex(-), search of video media & information, age(-), and reasonable consumption did through sales promotion. Sales promotion, preference of imported & brand goods(-), and store atmosphere(-) had a direct effect on preference of traditional market(
=.060). Sex(-), age(-), search of video media & information, and reasonable consumption had an indirect effect on preference of traditional market through sales promotion, and search of video media & information, reasonal consumption, and acceptance of foreign culture did through store atmosphere.
Apparel Fit by Body Perception and Body Satisfaction
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 69~81
The purpose of this study was to find out apparel fit satisfaction according to item(jacket, pants, skirt) by body perception and body satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, Pearson's Correlation, Crosstabs were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) Correlation between body perception and body satisfaction : The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were more satisfied with taller height. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips. thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. However, they were more satisfied with longer legs. 2) Apparel fit by body perception and body satisfaction: The subjects who were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, waist, thighs and wider hips were less satisfied with the upper arm area, waist area. hip area of jacket. The subjects who were more satisfied with longer arms were more satisfied with the sleeve length of jacket. The subjects who were less satisfied with wider shoulder width were less satisfied with the upper back width of jacket. It means the shoulder width affected more the upper back width of jacket than shoulder width of jacket. The subjects who were less satisfied with wider hips were less satisfied with the hip area of pants and skirt. The subjects who were less satisfied with thicker thighs were less satisfied with the thigh area and the hip area of pants and skirt. The subjects who were less satisfied with longer crotch length were less satisfied with the crotch length of pants. 3) Difference between actual body and perceived body by Rohrer Index: Rohrer Index 109 calculated by average of the ideal height(165.83cm) and weight(49.78kg) of the subjects ranged in thin body type(below 120). The subjects tended to perceived their bodies fatter than their actual bodies. Also, the subjects tended to perceived their lower bodies fatter than upper bodies.
A Study on the Cruel Images Shown in Modern Fashion - Focused on Julia Kristeva′s Theories -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 83~96
Upon the threshold of late 20th century, the social, cultural and artistic trend began to pursue aesthetic pluralism and deconstructivism, and thus, fashion also began to reflect such a trend only to express cruel, detestable, horrible and ugly aesthetics. Under such circumstances, this study focused on the cruel images appearing in the modern fashion and thereby, attempted to determine their causes in reference to Julia Kristeva's theories. Her theories of women explain that women have incessant desires or blind obsessions about penis due to the bisexual instinct inherent in their subconsciousness, and thereby, discuss sado-masochism, a characteristic of women's violence and cruelty. In addition, she determines of abject, detestable and horrible nature of women by explaining their struggle to be separated from mothers at the stage of Oedipus (sexual differences). Based on such theories about women's cruelty, the cruel images shown in the modern fashion are categorized into sado-masochism, the violent and destructive image, and abjection, the women's apparels made of unpleasant, terrible and creepy materials decorated, to be reviewed systematically.
A Study on Marking Efficiency for One-Piece Dress Pattern
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 97~108
This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.
A Study on the Characteristics of Fashion Expression after the 1990s - Focusing on the link between Fashion Trend and Characteristics of Postmodernistic Fashion -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 109~123
In this study, the fashion trend after the 1990s and the characteristics of fashion in the postmodernistic viewpoint that mainly effected fashion were observed, and the characteristics of fashion illustration expression was observed in the viewpoint of its link. It can be seen that mutually close characteristics are mutually linked. As the result of this study, the characteristics of fashion illustration can be categorized into three areas. and the sub-concepts are as following. The first category is the pursuit of feminine beauty of individual multi-dimension. This includes- 1) retro feminine beauty; 2) fetishistic and ecstatic feminine beauty; 3) mixed composition genderless (mixed composition style. ageless style and raceless style): and 4) beauty of body deconstruction and reconstruction (deformation due to partial transformation, change into animalization, mechanization and spirituelization. and beautification of crudeness). The second is the intentional deviation of expression and production technique. This includes-1) deviation from traditional perspective; 2) deviation from composition concept: and 3) breaking away from the existing material and expression technique of material. The third is the pursuit of authority-rejection form of expression. This is an area that should be noticed in the fashion illustration expression of the 1990s, as it shows the most diverse phenomenon. The sub-concepts of this category include- 1) separation of art 2) minimalism (minimalism in structure and production method); 3) flatness; 4) completion of incompletion; 5) accidentalism; 6) sportive;7) absence of figure; 8) intentional childishness 9) story development; 10) techno mechanism and cyber character; and 11) animation style.
The Analysis of Registration of Design Rights in Korean Apparel Industry - Design Rights Registered in Apparel (Classification B1) -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 125~139
The present study was to analyze the trend of registration of design rights in apparel products and tc point out problems of current protection law to design. The research data was total 1,850 design rights in apparel that have been registered to the Korean Patent and Trademark Office from the first design registered in March 1, 1963 through those registered in April 24, 2003. All design rights were analyzed by the year, by the type of product, and by the type of applicant. And also design rights registered under the revised design registration system(without examination) were analyzed by the trait. The results of the study were as follows: (1) Sweater & polo shirts, underpants, and the Korean traditional dress were three major single categories registered in apparel : (2) 54.3% of total design rights in apparel was registered since the legal system of design rights has been revised in March 1, 1998 : (3) Registration by individual applicant were 71.7% of total; (4) About 60% of total design rights were for aesthetic, but in some categories such as vest. brassiere, undershirts, designs for function were more frequently registered than others. And total 68 design rights for the symbol of the organization or uniform, were registered in upper outerwear and pants : (5) As problems of the current legal protection system for designs, the term of “design”(expressed in Korean), double registration of similar designs, malicious intention to register other's trademark as his/her own design. The current legal system for design rights were more used for the product that has relatively long life cycle. And the revised law has been effective in encouraging the registration of design rights. However. the current design law still has some problems to be revised to prevent design rights or trademark infringement.
The Style of Romanticism on Fashion(I)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 141~157
The purpose of this study is to clarify the style of romanticism in fashion. Romanticism is advocating the conception called the respect of diversity and individuality in the modern society dominated by postmodernism trying to accept the various values.. In this study, the characteristics of romanticism are examined through the bibliographies on philosophy, aesthetics, architecture and art. In fashion. 19C is based on the costume history books and pictures. The characteristics of romanticism in literature and art which are applied to fashion are sensuality, ornament, exoticism and complexity. On the basis of these characteristics, the 19C fashion of romanticism are analyzed as follows. ㆍ Sensuality to emphasize sexual region of woman's body and to make ‘X’ silhouette is through exaggeration and exposure. This is the characteristic to relieve femininity. ㆍ Ornamentation is expressed in the gorgeous color and the varied material. details and trimming to add the fantastic mood, and the accessory to express the aristocratic elegance. This is a very important characteristic that produces the fantastic and romantic mood. ㆍExoticism to express aspiration for East is expressed either in items or accessories imported from the East. or in exotic material and pattern. This is the characteristic of fashion to express the desire to escape from the reality in the mysterious mood. ㆍMingler is expressed, contrasting or harmonizing the various patterns, color, material in a fashion by the textile with the rich color and print of the various feeling and many trimming. This is the external characteristic of the romanticism fashion combined the experimental mind of the technical progress with the romantic trend in those days. These characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century presented with the various phenomena by working complexly rather than independently.
The Study of Huoong Bae Found Jip Sah
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 1, 2004, Pages 159~168
During the Chosun(조선) and Ming(명) Dynasty, embroidered patches called hyoong bae(흉배), were worn on the front and back of official robes worn by courtiers based on class distinction. It was discovered in Jip Sah(Genghis Khan's history books) that the miniatures, patterns used in the Won(원) Period, were passed down to the Ming Dynasty in the
century. Shape patterns included circles, triangles, squares, and ovals. Other patterns included dragons, deer, leaves, and branches. However it was found that there was no class distinction in wearing these patches. Out of 14 different miniatur, 41 men had worn these patches.