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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
Development of Korean Fashion Design for the World Market
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 1~9
This research aims at the development of Korean fashion design for the world market, which combines the western beauty and Korean tradition into the product design focusing on the styling concept. Through the example-analysis of structural elements which form Europe and Korean fashions, the styling concepts of functional change, beauty-combination, and tradition-conservation. are derived. The results are as follows : 1. Functionality needs to be improved by the structural change and the development of new materials from the traditional materials. 2. Beauty should come from the combination of natural patterns and western-spatial allocation, as well as from the front combination of western-beauty. 3. Tradition needs to be kept as Korean beauty and representation skills in the colors, accessaries, and in the spatial design. The styling concept for Korean fashion design in this research is related to the visual structural elements, and is not expanded to the styling concept of Korean image and/or feeling. Therefore future researches may follow on these un-expanded points. and also may continue the wide comparison between the Korean fashion design and oriental image fashion in Europe.
A Study on the Type and Formative Characteristics of Bomun
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 11~23
Bomun(Treasure Pattern), by its formative beauty and its symbol of good-luck, is mixed well with other patterns and produces another luxurious and gorgeous pattern with them. This study is to sort out Bomun patterned materials in the relics of Chosun dynasty, to classify the types of patterns according to its elements and to its arrangement, and to analyze their aesthetic characteristics in terms of fabrics, methods of putting patterns on fabrics, their usage, and symbols and aesthetics. The types of Bomun, in terms of their composition elements, are classified as Individual type, Compound Type Ⅰ, which is made with another Bomun, and Compound Type Ⅱ, which is compounded with plant patterns or with animal patterns. In terms of its arrangement, it is classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type, and the most popular type is the pattern of the dense type. Bomun was depicted in the fabric through a technique called Jimunbeop. It was used on both men's and women's clothing. It was mostly used in Po of men's clothing and in Jeogori(jacket) of women's clothing. Bomun connotes the meaning of good-luck, beating off evil spirits, Yin and Yang ideology, noble tastes, etc.
A Study on the Fashion Style in TV Drama - Focused on ′Sex ＆ The City′-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 25~38
The purpose of this study is to analyze the fashion style in the drama 'sex and the city's character. Frist of all, mixing and matching style is one of Carrie's signiture styles, namely her ability to combine haute couture fashion with high street bargains and vintage buys to make ingenious ensambles. There are two main ways to go with this seperates look, the equal look, when tops are put with equally fabulous bottoms, and the unequal look, when fabulous tops go with less fabulous bottoms. Second, nowadays vintage style is one of fashion trend. The 'Sex and the city' has define trends when it comes to jewellery, it is the 'Carrie' nameplate and the Hermes's horseshoe necklaces, especially pearls were a big hit for vintage style. Also it takes a floral pattern and various hat makes a vintage style. Third, Sexual style shows a halter and sleeveless dress with long earing and splendid necklaces. And it takes a leopard pattern. Fourth, romantic style, one of the 'Sex and the city"s character's favourite garments is the dress. Its makes romantic moods a delicate with handbags, Manolo Blahnik's and Jimmy Choo's high hill shoes and corsages. The romantic pattern is floral and material is chiffon.ffon.
A Comparative Study on the Design Developing of Japanism
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 39~52
The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.
The Bizarreness Phenomenon in The Contemporary Fashion - Focused on the works of korean fashion designers -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 53~65
As the contemporary public consensus prefers individuality to classical things, they have gotten sick of the universality and pursue fashion anew. As a result the new concept of artistic value delivers a shock to ordinary and traditional images. The bizarreness culture of fashion contains two extremes, horror and humor. which make people uneasy but amused by sensuous descriptions. Bizarre things captivate the audience regardless of the violent stimuli. The conversion of aesthetic consciousness is brought accordingly by horror and humor. In this paper, It is discussed that the concept of history of bizarreness and the social effect from its phenomena in current fashion are expressed through the two methods above. The bizarreness phenomena in current fashion is shown as a new hybrid type which has been recreated and came out of the internet. This phenomena has caused abnormal results and ironically mixed products, what was once directness, violence and disgust, are on the other hand enjoyment and amusement. A widening field, the bizarreness phenomenon, as an important implication in which can completely change the current trend, will be on track as a crucial concept representing contemporary cultures.
A Study on the Cyber Resistance Aesthetics of Leather Clothes - Focused on the Movie "Matrix I","Matrix II Reloaded"-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 66~78
A leather clothes which was a representative item of an existed resistant image created a new esthetics. Cyber Resistance, being mixed with the highlighted cyber image in these days. Especially. the image of such new leather clothes appears apparently in SF movies. The purpose of this study is to examine this new esthetics through the leather clothes of the movie.
. currently becoming the subject of a conversation and affecting to a popular culture and the fashion and to help to the design idea of a unique leather clothes. The result of analyzing of the character in the movie is following. Trinity shows herself as a woman warrior by wearing tight black leather suit. Morpheus is described as a vague character with his old fashioned suit and leather trench coat. while Niobe carries an image of rebellious cyber warrior in her leather suit with unique texture. In addition. leather clothes on
got the name of Matrix look and became a main theme in fashion collection. We can feel 'Cyber Resistance' esthetics in that leather clothes through the movie and fashion collection and summarize into three following features, First. it's grafted into the dichotomous value by progress and return as a retro futurism. Second. it moderately express a rebellious image of punk into a cyber image. Third. it makes cyber warrior's image that is neutralized mixing military and fetish properly.
A Study on the Transfiguration Process and the Symbols of Theatrical Costume of Sandai Masque During the Choson Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 79~94
The main purpose of this study is to discribe the transfiguration process and the symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque(산대놀이) during the Choson Dynasty. Sandai masque as a popular play is a very important form in the history of the Korean theatre. Furthermore in order to analyze the mutual relationship and difference between in the early and later Chosen Dynasty, Narye has is stressed deeply a national amusement event. In the early years of Choson Dynasty, non-official culture such as outside of Seoul and Seoul were subject to the official culture of the Court. In the late years, actors become more and more libral, separating themselves from the systemical restriction. The main reason for this is the growth of capitals in private sectors as well as the growth in demand for entertainment among private citizens. On these backgrounds, the transfiguration process of Sandai masque have changed the treatrical costume. The treatrical costume carries symbolic meaning to the obserber. The value of symbol changes as the time passes, overtime thereby altering its meaning as well. The caracters and plots change inevitably over years but the basic theme remains. The symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque are mainly focused on three subjects: first, the entrance of a dragon and tiger originated in the exorcism for good harvest; second, color symbolism expressed in the confrontation between red and black; and third, associate characteristics of dress forms related to regoinal classification of the mask dance.
A Study on the Benefits Sought and Use of Cosmetics
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 95~104
The purpose of this study was to identify benefits sought and use of the cosmetics. The results were as followes ; 1. Most women spent less than 40.000 won monthly, used basic cosmetics most frequently but used functional cosmetics least when they went out. 2. The factors of cosmetics benefits sought were self-confidence, individuality, beauty, saving appearance. and supplement defect. The respondents were segmented into the beauty pursuit, the supplement defect pursuit, the individuality pursuit, and the self-confidence pursuit. 3. The beauty pursuit used all kinds of cosmetics more than other groups, but the supplement defect pursuit used functional cosmetics more. The individuality pursuit used color cosmetics more, but spent cosmetics expenditure least. The self-confidence pursuit used all kinds of cosmetics least and spent cosmetics expenditure least. 4. The beauty pursuit was found among the older, the less educated, and jobless married women. The supplement defect pursuit was found among the late-teenagers. The individuality pursuit was found among married or unmarried working women. and the more educated. The self-confidence pursuit was found among college women. 5. The use of basic cosmitics was affected by cosmetics expenditure. age, supplement defect, and saving appearance. use of color cosmetics was by cosmetics expenditure, supplement defect, age, self-confidence, and individuality, and use of functional cosmetics was by cosmetics expenditure, supplement defect, and age.
A Study on Intertextuality with Other Domains in the 21C Contemporary Fashion - Focused on Animation, Music, Performing Arts and Technology -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 105~119
Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.
A Study on the Westernization of Japanese Costume During War(1937∼1945)
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 121~133
This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing,
The Study of Typography Expressed in Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 135~148
The purpose of this thesis is to examine how typography. which has become apparent in many areas of modern society, is expressed, portrayed and how its value, function and significance in fashion can be understood. In order to undertake this study, the concept of typography was examined in detail, the verbal and formative function of typography carefully considered, and the different types of typography were analyzed and categorized in to the below areas : - Typography for the increasing of brand logo recognition - Typography as a social slogan - Typography for the increasing of collective belongingness - Typography as an image - Typography as a symbol. As a result, the typography plays an important role of a verbal tool in modern fashion design. Through typography, fashion was able to explain in much detail the overstatement of society criticizing character and functionality of information conveyance. However, the role of typography will continue to change and evolve according to the constant changes of fashion
A Study on the Size Changes of Men in the 20′s - Focusing on the Lateral View of their Upper Bodies -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 2, 2004, Pages 149~165
In this study, the photographic and anthropometric measurements of men in the 20's were made. and pattern making professionals visually evaluated their side photos to classify lateral views. These data were analyzed by being compared with existing research results to select objective standards, and body types were classified according to the selected standard. In addition, body features were defined according to lateral views based on measurement items and indices, and standard lines and determining factors for visual evaluation which determines lateral views were revealed. Back length - front length size smaller than 1.5cm was named as the lean-back type, 1.5∼3.9cm was named as the straight type. and that larger than 3.9cm was named as the bend-forward type. In the straight type, the bisection point of waist depth was located at a similar place to tragion level vertical line. In the lean-back type, the point was at the front of tragion level vertical line. In the bend-forward type, the point was at the back of tragion level vertical line.