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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
The Influence of the Traditional Hostess's Hair Shapes in the Last of Chosun Dynasty on the Modern Ladies Hair Shapes
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 1~11
As Confucian ideology dominated all over the society, the androcentric patriarchical society in the last of Chosun Dynasty produced the unequal power relationship between man and woman. It was traditional hostesses(kisaengs) who uniquely had an occupation among the women in this society. In modern society. they are reinterpreted as 'fashion leaders' or 'professional career women with expert knowledge and it caused a lot of the studies of them to be in a progression vigorously. Therefore this paper studied on the influence of the traditional hostesses(kisaengs) -who were educated and permitted in ther social activity formally in a Confuanism-governed society which forbided a woman to participate in a social activity and which did not gave ladies any formal education. The general hostess in the beginning time of the Chosun Dynasty imitated the hair shape of women in the yangban family which formed the highest class in the Chosun Dyansty and it reflected their aspiration for the highest social class. Howerver, coming into the last age of the chosun dynasty, a reverse phenomenon -that women in the yangban family imitated the general hostesses' hairstyle -occured due to the spread of a genre painting ＆ the concubine system. The general hostesses were educated systematically and did social activity and influenced hair shapes as they were independent economically and their influence in the part of hairstyle appeared as great and high EONJIN MEURI and as one-sided EONJIN MEURI. Regarding-as the result of this study on the influence of the traditional hostess's hair shapes on the ladies hair shapes in the last of Chosun Dynasty -that the traditional hostesse of the last age of chosun dynasty played a role as a fashion leader of the ladies at the same age. the general hostesses in Chosun Dynasty should be revaluated... And the study of ladies which were hidden behind the scenes of Confuanism should be made much more.
The Expression of Metaphor and Metonymy in Fashion illustration by Three Components of Visual Sign
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 13~25
The purpose of this study was to show the analysis system and the expression which is applied to fashion illustration by three major components in visual sign, metaphor and metonymy. The results of this study were as follows : Firstly, metaphor in qualisign of syntactics was revealed as a color such as realistic description, a pattern such as clothing of figure. etc. Metonymy was revealed as a social and cultural background color, a concept pattern. etc. In sinsign of syntactics. metaphor was revealed as a human body, non-human body and metamorphosis human body and metonymy as a human body and non-human body. In legisign of syntactics, the metaphor by perspective was used for a fantasy of space. and the metonymy was revealed as a color perspective representation, etc. The degree of change of texture was revealed as a metaphor and metonymy of gradation. And conventional custom sign was almost revealed in metaphor. Secondly, semantics showed about fashion image as juxtaposition of two similar objects in metaphor and as real description and simplification in metonymy Alternative fashion image in semantics was presented as a object related to fashion image. Conventional symbolic sign was presented as a role to clarify a fashion message in metaphor. Thirdly, the metaphorical and metonymical expression in pragmatics were usually presented as drawing and painting.
A Study on the Male Images shown in the Music Videos Costumes -Focused on the Music Videos produced between 2000 and 2002-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 27~42
Music videos provide for many others images, alluring the audience to fall in another emotional world, while the sexual images shown in them suggest new images of man and woman. Today, men's images are being interpreted from various viewpoints. As interests in men's fashion are visualized through music video clothing, not only juveniles who want to be identified with the music video images but also adults try to imitate them, and proceed to wear the clothing, obliterating the boundary between 'reality' and 'illusion' and creating new images of men. This study is aimed at reviewing the male images shown in the music videos, particular their clothing, produced between 2000 and 2002. The results of this study could be summarized as follows : 1. Since beginning of the human history, men's image has been characterized by patriarchal system, capitalism, bourgeois class which emerged after industrial revolution and other man-dominant socio-cultural phenomena, such male image are shown in the music video as conservative and dominant image. 2. However, due to the post-modern culture, the power began to be decentralized. while feminism and men's liberation movement gain strength. As a result, women or heterosexuals began to regard men as sexual objects, and such a phenomenon is featured as sexual, bisexual or decadent images in the music videos. 3. On the threshold of the 21st century, music videos have begun to creatively describe men's life, their social conflicts, dreams and hopes and death and thereby. feature men's such images as being destroyed in view of existentialism. The numerous creative men's images interpreted in this way are featured in many music video works only to create playful, cyborg or demonic images using the senses. After all, men's images are featured in the music video costumes in diverse ways ranging from the conventional images to acquiescent images. In addition, various male images are combined with the characteristics of the music videos to be re-created anew. The young men in the our modern age tend to imitate or apply such images to create their own images or individualistic styles. All in all, men's image can be fixed no longer but diversified and fragmented in the new age.
A Comparison of Apparel Behavior between Korean and Japanese Female College Students -Focused on Ideal Clothing and Actual Clothing Behavior-
;;;Takabu Hiroko;Hiraoka Wakako;Fuseya Setsuko;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 43~51
The purpose of this study was to compare ideal clothing and actual clothing behavior between Korean and Japanese college students. 185 Korean students and 91 Japanese students were used into data analysis from October to December. 2000. The age range was 18 to 28 years. The results were as followed. 1) Japanese students wanted to wear fitted clothing styles with revealing the body, while Koreans wanted to wear not only fitted styles but also relaxed and coved body styles. 2) Korean students wore more loose styles and fitted upper styles and pants than Japanese students. On the other hand, Japanese students wore fitted clothing styles and skirt. 3) Japanese students showed higher correlation between ideal clothing styles and actual clothing styles than Koreans. This means that although Koreans want to wear ideal styles, they don't wear those styles much. 4) Overweight students tended to avoid wearing fitted and revealed body styles, pursuing more loose and coved body styles. This tendency showed stronger to Koreans than Japanese students.
A Study on the Marketing Strategy for Domestic Fashion Multi-shop Dealt with Imported Products Only (I) -Focusing on Product Strategy / Pricing Strategy-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 53~64
The study was done to provide domestic fashion multi-shops with basic information about the product and price strategies through an investigation the marketing strategies for domestic multi-shop dealt with imported product only. Data were collected from Interview with a buyer or a staff of marketing department of Domestic Fashion Multi-shop dealt with Imported Product only. Through the study, it was clarified that these multi-shops showed a tendency to compose of promising brands. brands set a high value on unique character or technique, and brands of promising designer noticed at the main collection. And they also extended their lines as a total life style shop dealt with accessory. shoes and home collection as well as clothing. Therefore, they had to analyze their target consumer's life style and applied this to organization of product, brands or sizing. To maintain the balance of multi-shop they bought products keeping the balance between all the brands and didn't lose variety of concept, it was demanded to develop new brands as well. Their distribution channels had to be planned by regional characteristic that could be accepted their target consumers.
A Study on Wearing and Manufacturing of Surgical Gowns
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 65~71
Surgical operating gowns are worn by doctors and nurses in operating theater to address dual function of preventing transfer microorganisms like bacteria and body fluids from the operating staffs to patients. and also from patients to staff. They must allow necessary mobility without rubbing and must resist tearing. These gown must be designed to fit a diversity of body shapes and sizes with a limited range of sizes as hospitals will stock limited quantities. Also they must proper in various operating situations. In order to suggest improving design features of surgical gowns, it has been done to analyze current situation of medical uniform manufacturing and wearing. Surgical gown were made with plain fabric of cotton 100% and had a little size system without sexual division. Many doctors were unsatisfied with surgical gown size and wearing comfort. Surgical operating gowns need continuos research for new material and design as surgical situation, and new sizing system.
A Study on the Consumer Sensibility of Japanism Design
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 73~85
The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and sensibility of Japanism fashion designs which represented by Japanese designers and Western designers. The stimulus were 29 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style fashion designs from fashion collections. The data were analyzed by Cluster analysis, Factor analysis, Multidimensional Scaling Method and Regression Analysis. The specific objectives were as follows ; 1) As result of design analysis, Japanism fashion sensibility is unique and good-looking. 2) As result of the factor analysis. 4 factors which are Attractiveness, Attention, Maturity and Hardness and softness. 3) According to sensibility positioning, The Japanism fashion design was classified by Decorative-Simple, Hard-Soft. 4) As result of the Regression Analysis, The preference of Japanism fashion design was related to attractive factor. 5) As result of the Regression Analysis. The buying desirable of Japanism fashion design was related to attractive, attentive and mature factor.
A Study of Characteristics and Symbolic Meanings appeared in Body Modification Commodity Ads
Gi-Young Kwon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 87~97
On the Formative Feature Characteristics of Cyber Character's Fashion in the Cyber-space Game
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 99~112
The purpose of this research is to examine the relation between the cyber environment and the contemporary fashion design by studying the formative feature characteristics of cyber character's fashion in the on-line game from the point of the contemporary fashion design. The research method is to understand the general concept of the cyber-space and characters and then is to contemplate characteristics and formative features of game character's fashion of the cyber-space mainly with cyber characters that were closely linked with features of the contemporary fashion design. As a result, the formative feature of game character's fashion of the cyber-space was to be classified into four categories; reactionism, mechanism, futurism, sensualism. First, reactionism takes traditional elements with symbolical and compromising form. Second, mechanism has a tendency of deconstruction due to its vitality and sense of velocity for objects through employing geometrical forms and new materials. Third, futurism deviates from the established framework. It makes use of high-tech materials and has surrealistic and futuristic features. Fourth, sensualism does emphasize sensual parts of the body and intends to convey aesthetic atmosphere through association of ideas. Character's fashion of the cyber on-line game is unnatural and artificial in its forms and wear for the lack of knowledge for costume's structure, and it shows just simplified design that accept extremely partial fragment of features in the contemporary fashion design.
Decoration Culture resident in Contemporary Japanese Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 113~127
The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.
A Study on the Aesthetic Consciousness for Body expressed by Modern Fashion
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 129~143
The beauty of the body could separately be defined from area to area, but there can't be any universal definition of it that is applicable throughout the world. The modern discourses on the body have frequently dealt with that, and the beauty of the body should be studied in light of sociocultural background. In today's world fashion industry, the body is represented in various ways, and how to express the body itself is considered from diverse perspectives. As it's now required to approach to fashion from the sociocultural standpoint of the body. a semiotic interpretation method was introduced. The reason was that from the viewpoint of semiotics, the beauty of the body has different implications for society as cultural sign, and they also could be regarded as sociocultural codes. In order to improve new light on the aesthetic consciousness of the body and how it's represented in modern fashion, earlier studies and existing theories were examined. The semiotic interpretation method was used to find out what the aesthetic consciousness of the body stood for and what implication it had for fashion. And in which way fashion represented aesthetic consciousness, including satire, pleasure, grotesque and decadence, through the body was examined. Fashion creates an artificial beauty of the body, and change in the body is followed by change in fashion.
A Study on the Body Distortion and Deformation in Fashion Art
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 3, 2004, Pages 145~158
In modern art, body appears as artistic performer, material or producer. and is expressed as' social environment body' which is changed in the relationship with its society and culture. The correlation between body and clothing image appears in 'body as expression object' which directly borrows human body or sets up a section of human body, 'body as medium' in which clothing substitutes body, and 'body as image' in which image of body reappears along with clothing. The results of analysis are as follows : First, 'image of expansion and exaggeration' to expand the influence of clothing thereby disclosing illusion of material civilization prevalent in our society, and make metaphor of dwarfish human's lurking fear by transforming and exaggerating human body. Second, 'image of restriction and suppression' to express the loss of humanity, power and restriction of modern society with fixing and cruelty of body image through clothing which disregard body function. Third, 'image of open and fluidity to criticize the extinction of values of human existence and standardized figure of our society by reducing three-dimensional clothing and body to untypical form or introducing the image of absent of human body to clothing. Fourth, 'image of reversion and paradox' to express practical clothing object with unwearable material, or cause confusion of sex and identity by expressing dual aspects of body at the same time. In this study, which is focused on correlation between body and clothing and the meaning of them, I realized that, even though artistic clothing expressed image of distortion and deformation of human existence as essential subject of body, they, in most contents, were used as medium of communication to rediscover human dignity and identity, and consisted of a series of metaphoric network of meanings satirizing aspects of our society.